Teatro Massimo Bellini Opera & Mè Cumpari Turiddu

Widely acclaimed as one of Italy’s most magnificent opera houses, the grand Teatro Massimo Bellini is a dazzling tribute to the 19th-century Catania-born composer Vincenzo Bellini, famed for his bel canto compositions and his masterwork ‘Norma’ in particular. Bellini’s works feature largely among the theater’s annual roster of operas, such as Il Pirata, which we went to see one very hot evening while visiting Catania. The opera, a melodramma in two acts which premiered at La Scala in 1827, tells the story of the exiled Gualtiero, count of Montaldo, who has been living a life of piracy pursued by his enemy Ernesto, duke of Caldara, who has forced Imogene into marriage by threatening to kill her father. Shipwrecked on the coast near Ernesto and Imogene's castle, Gualtiero is recognized by Imogene and they reaffirm their mutual devotion. Unfortunately, Ernesto returns to hear his wife admit her love for his enemy, and in a duel Gualtiero kills Ernesto, who then surrenders and is sentenced to death. As he bids farewell, the despairing Imogene loses her mind. It's opera. Nothing ever ends well. However, our evening certainly did, for after the opera, we went for a very late dinner at Mè Cumpari Turiddu, a culinary favourite among local gourmands. Antique chandeliers, lace covered tables, and vintage mirrors exude a nostalgic air, where tradition and modernity meet to impressive effect. Just like a traditional Sicilian home, everything at Mè Cumpari Turiddu revolves around the kitchen. Small producers and slow food sensibilities underline Chef Gianluca Leocata’s sophisticated, classically inspired cuisine which focuses on typical Sicilian specialities from the land and sea, such as his effusive Fritto Misto di Mare and contemporary twists on local classics such as Spaghetti alla Turiddu, Couscous delle Monache from the Santo Spirito Convent, and Pasta alla Norma, the city’s trademark dish made with eggplant, tomatoes and ricotta salata named after Bellini’s opera 'Norma' — art and food being forever one.

Arriving at Teatro Massimo Bellini for the premiere of Il Pirata and admiring the theatre's spectacular Sicilian Baroque architecture

People watching outside the teatro was like a mini opera full of loud chatter and grand gestures

The ornate marble and stuccoed foyer with a statue of local-born composer Vincenzo Bellini, 

after whom the open house was named

The well dressed beautiful people of Catania at the premier of Il Pirata

Vincenzo Bellini by Giuseppe Tivoli

View of Bellini Square from the grand foyer of the Teatro Massimo Bellini

Arriving at the opera early, we were able to admire the theatre in all its glory 

The beautiful red-plush interior includes the main floor seating and four tiers of boxes

The painted ceiling by Ernesto Bellandi depicts scenes from four of Bellini’s most well-known operas

The teatro begins to fill and the excitement builds

Among the many exquisitely dressed Italian women was this young lady with stiletto boots

Shipwrecked on the coast near Ernesto and Imogene's castle, Gualtiero is recognized by Imogene and they reaffirm their mutual devotion

Gualtiero kills Ernesto, who then surrenders and is sentenced to death. As he bids farewell, the despairing Imogene loses her mind. It's opera. Nothing ever ends well.

After the opera, we strolled to a wonderful restaurant a few minutes away

Mè Cumpari Turiddu, a culinary favourite among local gourmands

Open until late, the restaurant was still busy at midnight

Jazz music, dim lighting and up cycled decor — Me Cumpari Turiddu is filled with the authentic Sicilian flavours of days gone by 

Me Cumpari Turiddu’s ‘Putia’ food corner is always open for those looking to purchase the Slow Food ingredients Chef Gianluca Leocata uses in the kitchen

Amuse bouche of olives and sundried tomatoes

Selection of small warm breads fresh from the oven

Glass of Carricante Etna Bianco 

Delicious fresh bread and completely addictive

Il fritto di Turiddu

All the restaurant's wines are natural and organic and come from small, Sicilian wine cellars

Spaghetti alla Turiddu with 'Masculina da Magghia' anchovies, 'Minuta' olives, Nubia red garlic, raw cherry tomatoes, Salina capers and baked bread crumbs

Calamarata con crema di cime di rapa, calamari e vongole

www.mecumparituriddu.it/en

Spaghetti alla Turiddu con la Masculina da Magghia

Serves 4-6

Recipe courtesy of Chef Gianluca Locate, Me Cumpari Turiddu

14 oz spaghetti

10 oz Masculine da Magghia anchovies

1 1/2 lb cherry tomatoes

1 clove of garlic, minced

1 sprig of parsley, chopped 

1/2 lb Nebrodi olives

1 oz Salina capers

Vegetable broth

Extra Virgin olive oil

Salt

For the breadcrumbs:

1 lb stale bread

1 1/2 oz Masculine di Maglia olives

3/4 oz onion, finely chopped

1 clove of garlic, minced

Extra Virgin olive oil

Heat a pot of water for the pasta, and once it boils, add the salt and the spaghetti, and cook until al dente. For the breadcrumbs, as Turiduu knows so well, brown the onions in oil, then add the anchovies and cook for a few minutes. Then add the breadcrumbs and leave on the heat until toasted. In another pan, brown in oil with a minced clove of garlic, the tomatoes and when browned, add the capers, olives, a little vegetable broth and the anchovies. Drain the very al dente pasta and transfer into a pan with the condiments. Add the chopped parsley and mix for a few minutes with a bit of garlic. Garnish with the breadcrumbs and a sprig of dill, and serve.