Pienza & Ristorante Terrazza della Val d'Orcia

 

Pliny the Elder praised it and Lorenzo the Magnificent was fond of it: pecorino di Pienza is a cheese that for centuries has embodied the taste of the land and traditions of one of Tuscany's most beautiful valleys, the Val d'Orcia. Located in the stunning hills between Montepulciano and Montalcino, Pienza is a charming Renaissance village that produces some of the best pecorino cheese in the country. It's also the first town we visit whenever we're in Umbria. Named after locally born Pope Pius II, Penza has been a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site since 1996. The architectural focal point is the square Piazza Pio II, surrounded by the Duomo and pope's family residence, Palazzo Piccolomini, and the beautiful gardens in the Palazzo's interior courtyard. However, the culinary spotlight is the town's Pecorino cheese together with the Pienza's friendly shop owners, quaint cobblestone streets, lovely restaurants and quiet unhurried lifestyle. With it's small size and charismatic centro storico, this beautiful little hilltop town captures the true essence of Tuscany.

One of the finest and most beautiful restaurants in Pienza was La Terrazza del Chiostro, located in a 15th-century ex-convent beside the Palazzo Piccolomini. Unfortunately it is now closed having recently been absorbed into a new hotel, Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza. Tutto cambia — everything changes. Fortunately we discovered Terrazza della Val d'Orcia, a lovely restaurant with fine cuisine and magnificent views of the Tuscan Val d'Orcia, a breathtaking landscape celebrated by the Sienese School which flourished during the Renaissance. As we were enjoying a lovely glass of Prosecco on the outdoor terrace, ominous black clouds were building signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm. Grabbing our bubbley, we darted inside and nestled in the restaurant's beautiful dining room to enjoy our lunch. Tutto è andato bene. 

Piazza Pio II with town clock

We strolled along the ancient town walls on Via del Casello 

with views of the spectacular Val d'Orcia

Bar il Casello is well known for its casual outdoor dining on the historic town wall

with fabulous views over the Val d'Orcia

The Duomo di Pienza, which dominates the centre of the piazza, 

has a facade that is one of the earliest designed in the Renaissance manner

Built between 1459 and 1462 by order of Pope Pius II, born Enea Silvio Piccolomini,

the Gothic interior features tall windows that flood the interior with natural light

The columns and piers feature finely carved, decorated capitals that support the soaring arcade arches, combining Gothic verticality with classicizing Renaissance details

Candles before Matteo di Giovanni's 'Madonna con S. Caterina, S. Matteo, 

S. Bartolomeo and S.Lucia'

Terrazza della Val d'Orcia with our table overlooking the magnificent Tuscan landscape

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut

The perfect beginning to any lunch

An elegant Prosecco that tickles the tastebuds

A basket of warm homemade bread

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano shines as the white queen in a land of Red Kings

Balanced, dry and highly distinctive, the 'White Queen' is outstanding

and most definitely my favourite Italian white wine  

With ominous skies building, signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm,

we dashed inside - with my White Queen of course

The interior of Terrazza della Val d'Orcia was warm, elegant and simply lovely

With fresh linen napkins and sparkling glasses, 

we were happy to be inside from 'il pioggia battente'

Fiore do Carciofi al forno su spuma di Pecorino di Pienza, crumble doi mandorle,

olio e prezzemolo ed erbette stagionali

'Quasi un Camambert' - Pecorino a crosta fiorita al forno con miele di acacia biologico,

pepe verde, lampone, gherigli di noce e pane croccante

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

The highest expression of this territory, this wine smells like Montepulciano,

"full bodied, strongly powerful and bombastic" aka yummy

Guanchetta di Cinghiale cotta a bassa temperatura, fondente di patate,

verdure artiginale in agrodolce ed il 'bagnate verde' revisionato alla maniera Toscana

Filetto di Chianina IGP alla griglia mediamente raro, accompagnato il nostro burro

agli aromi della Val D'Orcia, il piccolo cilindro di patate e aspergi ed il nostro olive evo al rosmarino

Spinaci saltati in padella al burro de misel

Le nostre patate al forno con il sale aromatico della Val D'Orcia

Tartelletta composta da due dischi di friabile biscotto sablè, 

intervallati con crema pasticcera e guarniti da un bouquet di frutta fresca

Macchiato

Marusca e Maria Prodotti Tipici della Toscana in Pienza

Wheels of pungent Pienza pecorino which is very challenging to resist 

Arte & Preziosi is a special boutique and jewelry workshop in Pienza, founded and run by jewelry designer Anna Porcu along with her mother Beatrice and collaborator Luciana

Palazzo Maisaini is an historic 13th-century estate located in the heart of the Val d'Orcia 

Famous worldwide for its breathtaking winding gravel driveway lined with towering Italian cypress trees, it's one of the most photographed and iconic postcard views of the Tuscan countryside

The medieval castle operates as a winery, farm, and agritourism estate where guests can stay, sample local wines, take cooking classes or stop to photograph the classic cypress-lined path

terrazzadellavaldorcia.it

Il Convento: A Corciano Culinary Gem

 

Located in a beautiful 13th century Franciscan monastery next to the church of St. Francis of Assisi in Corciano, Il Convento is simply one of the best restaurants in Umbria. In 1223, San Francesco returning from the island stopped in Corciano, and in memory of his visit the construction of the church and monastery of San Francesco was started. Over 600 years later in 1839, Bishop Cittadini changed the convent into a summer residence for the Diocese of Perugia Seminary, and at the end of the 1950's, the property then passed to Luigi Battaglini, who with his wife Anna Bocci, transformed the convent into a restaurant. 

At 89, Anna Bocci continues to be the heart and soul of Il Convento, guardian of ancient recipes which with great passion she skilfully brings to life every day, with the help of her daughter Patricia and chef Gianluca. Serving simple but exceptional traditional Umbrian cuisine in the ancient barrel vaulted wine cellars of the former convent of San Francesco, we always look forward to dining at Il Convento each time we visit Umbria. With an inspired menu, exceptional wine list, absolutely delicious dishes and warm Umbrian hospitality, dining at Il Convento is always a soul satisfying delight.

The walled garden entrance to Il Convento

Il Convento is located in what were originally the ancient barrel vaulted wine cellars 

of the former 13th century convent

The outstanding menu of Il Convento with traditional Umbrian dishes and old recipes 

of owner and chef Anna Bocci

Valdo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut DOCG 

has been produced since 1926 in the heart of Conegliano Valdobbiadene in the Vento

The perfect bubbley beginning to our lovely lunch

Woven basket with homemade bread

Beautiful orchids were set at each table

Selection of Umbrian cheeses with local honey and marmalade

Frittata al Tartufi Nero

Terre de Trinci Montefalco Sagrantino 

Rich, velvety, smooth, fragrant and well balanced,

a delicious Sagrantino

Tagliatelle al Sugo Antico

Costolette di agnello allo scottadito

Tagliata di manzo con rucola e pomodorini

Spinaci con olio e limone

Macchiato

Gated entrance to Il Convento in Corciano

Chiesa-Museo di San Francesco adjacent to Il Convento, 

was built in the late 13th century following a visit by Saint Francis of Assisi to the area

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunto is a 13th-century parish church within the historic walls 

of the medieval village of Corciano

The high altar features the masterpiece 'Assunzione della Vergine' 

by Pietro Vannucci, known as Il Perugino, in 1513

A rare and remarkable survival of a Renaissance masterpiece remaining in the exact sacred building and over the high altar for which it was originally commissioned over 500 years ago

One of my favourite Umbrian artists, I was thrilled to have found this Perugino 

in Corciano after a wonderful lunch at Il Convento

Steps down through Medieval Corciano

www.ilconvento-corciano.it