Ristorante La Grotta: A New Chapter

 

Nestled at the foot of Montepulciano beside the historic Tempio di San Biagio, one of the greatest expressions of Renaissance Tuscany, is the elegant Ristorante la Grotto, located in a charming 16th-century building that was once the home of the famous architect Antonio da Sangallo. The service is exemplary and the courtyard garden divine. Established in 1966, La Grotta is beautifully located with magnificent views of the Val di Chiana hills and majestic Tempio di San Biagio, made of travertine and consecrated by Pope Clement VII in 1529. 

Lovely Chef Cristina and David Mazzuoli, the sister-brother team who ran La Grotta for over 24 years, sadly left 2 years ago, taking guests on a delicious culinary journey which struck a clever balance between traditional Tuscan cooking and a passion for culinary innovation. They were so kind each and every time we dined at La Grotta since our first visit in 2012, and they will be sorely missed. However, Chef Roberto Bruno now leads the kitchen with Alessandro and William as part of the new team and Fabio Rossi as sommelier — thankfully the restaurant is still outstanding. 

The menu, is still inspired by traditional recipes and prepared with locally sourced ingredients, featuring dishes such as Aubergine and Zucchini Sformato with crisp Tuscan bacon, Tuna Tartare with olives and orange, Ravioli stuffed with pheasant and flavoured with saffron and pecorino, superb Bistecca Fiorentina with cannellini beans, a rich variety of local artisan cheeses and an excellent selection of classic Montepulciano wines. Pampered with warm, gracious and attentive service and sensational cuisine, sitting outside in the garden or in the gorgeous dining room and enjoying a meal at this classic restaurant is truly one of life's greatest pleasures. Even though David is longer around with his beautiful smile and generous spirit.

Chef Cristina and David Mazzuoli, the sister-brother team 

who ran La Grotta for over 24 years, left in 2024

Historic Tempio di San Biagio, one of the greatest expressions of Renaissance Tuscany

The late Renaissance bell tower of San Biagio

Designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder between 1518 and 1548 as a High Renaissance 

masterpiece with a Greek-cross plan and central dome

The blue and yellow flags relate to Le Coste, one of the eight historic contrade (districts) 

that compete in the town's annual barrel-rolling race, the Bravìo delle Botti

The interior of the Tempio di San Biagio in Montepulciano features a solemn, harmonious High Renaissance Greek-cross design centered beneath a majestic 13-meter-wide dome

The sumptuous marble high altar framing a 14th-century the 'miraculous fresco' of the Madonna

'Assunzione della Vergine' by Domenico Manetti, 1656

An ancient wooden door conceals the historic staircase 

leading the rectory and open-air cloister

La Grotta is one of our favourite restaurants

The lovely stone interior of La Grotta

The menu is inspired by traditional recipes 

and prepared with locally sourced Tuscan ingredients

A delicious beginning to any meal is a glass or two of Franciacorta

A delicate and delicious Franciacorta from the limestone soils of Monte Orfano in Lombardy

Beatrice offering advice on our luncheon wine selection 

Sileo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2016

An elegant and intense Vino nobile, a perfect pairing for our Bistecca Fiorentina

Profiterole con mousse al tartufo amuse bouche

Per Iniziare, Paté di Fegatini, Pan Brioches e Cipolla Rossa di Certaldo 

Per Iniziare, Fiori di zucca, ricotta, coulis di pomodoro e crumble di olive

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Podere Ricavo Tuscan extra virgin olive oil from Sienna adds a rich, peppery finish that enhances the natural flavor of a perfectly cooked Bistecca all Fiorentina, but just a drizzle

A light sprinkling of Maldon salt on the Fiorentina with the olive oil is divine

Cicoria ripassata

Patate arrosto

Quite possibly the most perfect Italian lunch

Macchiato

Tartelletta meringata al limone



   

www.lagrottamontepulciano.com

Sformato di Melanzane e Zucchine

Recipe courtesy of La Grotta

Serves 4

2 medium aubergines, diced

2 medium zucchinis, diced

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

3 large eggs

1/2 cup grated Pecorino Toscano cheese

4 slices of crisp Tuscan pancetta

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat and sauté the onion until soft. Add the diced aubergines and zucchinis. Cook until tender and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Let cool slightly. Transfer the cooked vegetables to a bowl, mash lightly with a fork, and stir in the eggs and grated pecorino cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into greased ramekins. Bake in a water bath at 350°F for 35 minutes until set. Top each flan with a slice of crisp bacon before serving warm.

Paccheri with Shrimp, Squid and Tomatoes

A Coastal Italian delight, Paccheri has been a staple of southern Italian cuisine for centuries. It’s a dish that feels both refined and comforting, reminiscent of seaside dinners on the Amalfi Coast, with the scent of basil in the air and the sound of waves in the distance. The heart of this recipe is the homemade shrimp stock, or 'fumetto di pesce' that deepens the flavour, while a velvety tomato sauce ties it all together — a classic example of how Italian cuisine turns simple, fresh ingredients into something extraordinary.

Paccheri with Seafood

Serves 4

200g Paccheri pasta

8-10 shrimp/prawns, peeled and deveined, with shells and heads reserved

7 oz small calamari, cleaned, bodies sliced into rings and tentacles separated

14 oz can San Marzano tinned tomatoes

12 fresh medium tomatoes, halved

3 cloves garlic, sliced

1 tsp chili pepper flakes 

1/2 cup dry white wine

3 tbsp Italian extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and black pepper, to taste

Heat a heavy skillet over high heat with 2 tbsp of olive oil, over medium-high heat. Place the reserved shrimp shells and heads in the pan and sauté for 5-6 minutes until the shells turn bright red, infusing the oil with a lovely smokey aroma and flavour, then discard the shells.

Add the shrimp and calamari to the hot pan and sauté until almost cooked through, then set aside in a small bowl.

Add the sliced garlic and chili flakes to the hot panned cook until fragrant, about one minute. Add the halved fresh tomatoes and cook until they soften and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Then add the San Marzano tinned tomatoes and white wine, breaking them up with a spoon. Allow to simmer gently for 15–20 minutes to thicken into a rich sauce.

Meanwhile, cook the paccheri in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, about 20 minutes. A few minutes before the pasta is cooked, add the calamari and shrimp to the tomato sauce and simmer until warmed through. 

Transfer the drained paccheri into the seafood and tomato skillet and mix through over medium heat for a few minutes, adding splashes of pasta cooking water to create a glossy, unified sauce that clings to the large tubes. Serve and enjoy.

Arezzo Antique Market & Ristorante La Pieve

 

Considered to be one of the finest antique fairs in Tuscany, the Antique Market in Arezzo was the first market of its kind to be established in Italy in 1968. On the first Sunday of every month, the market takes advantage of the extraordinary scenery of Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Grande and the Logge del Vasari, with stalls also spreading over the side alleys and squares across the historic centre, transforming the character of the city for the two days of the fair. The Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo has grown over the years in size and reputation with around 500 vendors from across the country selling their treasures at the market, with an array of beautiful old furniture, paintings, silverware, antique books, assorted china, crystal and jewellery. A haven for antique collectors, the warren of shops that usually line the winding streets of Arezzo, and are worth spending an entire day to explore, however the sunny morning we arrived, the market was set up in the gorgeous Passeggio del Prato, a leafy park just steps from Piazza Grande. Arriving early for a cappuccino at Gli Svizzeri Pastisseria, we spent the morning exploring the Market looking for hidden gems. 

The city's greatest artistic treasure however, is Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle The Legend of the True Cross, located in the Basilica of San Francesco. Started in 1452, this early Renaissance masterpiece tells the story of the 'True Cross', considered to be Piero della Francesca’s greatest masterpiece and narrates a medieval story about the cross on which Jesus was crucified. The story tells the legend of the cross used to crucify Christ, from sprig to Tree of Knowledge, to its use a bridge during the reign of Solomon, and ultimately its discovery by Helena, mother of Constantine, the first Christian emperor. 

To our great surprise, the annual Giostra del Saracino, an ancient tournament of chivalry dating back to the Middle Ages, was taking place the same day. The event opens with a colourful procession of over 350 participants dressed in ornate 14th-century costumes, and where four neighbourhoods or 'Quartieri', each defined by unique heraldic colours and symbols, compete twice a year in the sloping Piazza Grande for the golden trophy known as the Lancia d'Oro. 

We always make a reservation at Ristorante La Pieve which specializes in classic Tuscan cuisine with the scents and flavours of chef Donatella's homemade pasta and decadent dolce. Located in a 14th-century building on the Corso Italia, the beautiful country style interior with fresco-style wall details, La Pieve also boasts an  outstanding menu featuring truffles, seasonal porcini mushrooms, local produce, fish and game. Having made a reservation weeks before to secure a table for Sunday lunch, we began with some lovely chilled prosecco, and followed with Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio with shaved fennel and pink peppercorns. For our entrées, we chose the "Scottadito" lamb chops with roast potatoes as well as an outstanding Tagliata di Manzo ai funghi porcini, cooked with the fresh new porcini mushrooms of the season. We even indulged in some dolci including a superb creme caramel, before winding our way home to our villa Campello sul Clitunno in the Umbrian hills, with a few antiques tucked under our arms and a contented smile on our face — la dolce vita.

The famed Arezzo Antiques Fair held the first Sunday of every month

Antique Books with beautiful etchings

A beautiful collection of antique prints and etchings were enormous tempting

Lovely vintage books

Cherubs, putti and angels

The silver tables always catch my eye — I could easily buy everything

Antique seller from Antichta Lenza with paintings and putti

The 13th-century steeple of the Duomo di Arrezzo soars over the park 

where the Antique Fair takes place with the bells ringing at midday

View from the Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo of the Tuscan countryside

An antique hand painted panels of parrots

A lovely convex mirror in the Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo

A father and son wearing the scarf or 'foulard' the declares their allegiance

to their quartiere for the Giostra del Saracino

Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo stall selling vintage commercial signs and lighting

Bouquets of festive balloons are a beacon for young children

The famous Palazzo delle Logge in Arezzo is a monumental Renaissance building designed by the famous artist and architect Giorgio Vasari, who was in fact born in Arezzo

The 150th anniversary of the Giostra del Saracino in Arezzo

was being held the Sunday we were in Arezzo

Seating in Piazza Grande, the sloping main medieval square of Arezzo,

is the site of the Giostra del Saracino which will take place later this afternoon

In anticipation of the great parade preceding the famed Giostra del Saracino,

we happened across a few of the jousters getting ready and having a quick drink

Ristorante La Pieve is our favourite spot for lunch when we're in Arezzo

The ochre coloured interior of La Pieve

Luncheon menu of Tuscan specialties

Small birdcage with fragrant dried roses

A plate of Tuscan Pane sciocco, which is distinguished from others Italian breads by a lack of salt

The famous white wine from San Gimignano is Vernaccia di San Gimignano, 

often called the "White Queen in a land of Red Kings"

Lovey Giancarlo takes car of all the guests at La Pieve and remembered me 

as I had made a reservation for lunch a month before using my 'best Italian'

Il flan di carote con fonduta di grani di bufala stagionata 36 mesi è chips de patate

Carpaccio di tonno e pesce spada affumicati

Tenuta di Campriano Chianti Riserva 2024

A smooth and rich chianti by the Mancini family

L'Anatra in porchetta arrosto

Ricciola alla griglia con salsa al timo limonato e mandorle a lamelle

Spinaci salati

Le patate con la buccia arrosto

Our favourite pasta shop in Arezzo - Antica Bottega Toscana

Strangozzi, a Tuscan pasta with the colourful nickname 'priest strangler'

Piero della Francesca's masterpiece cycle, the Legend of the True Cross

in the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo

The scenes are divided into three levels on the central wall and on the side walls of the Bacci Chapel 

tell the story of the wood on which Jesus Christ was crucified

The Annunciation frescoe with the Archangel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary 

to announce that she would conceive and bear Jesus

The Queen of Sheba venerates the wood from which the Cross will be made 

On the eve of his battle with Maxentius to decide who was to be the undisputed Emperor of Rome, Constantine lies asleep in his tent

Constantine’s victory over Maxentius, with above, 

Finding and Recognition of the True Cross where 3 crosses are unearthed

The ceiling of the Bacci Chapel is decorated with frescoes of the Four Evangelists, 

painted by the Florentine artist Bicci di Lorenzo starting in 1447

Wandering along Corso Italia to fetch our car and wend our way home

after a wonderful day in Arezzo