Norcia: The Land of Truffles, Salumi & Cinghiale

 

Norcia is a small picturesque town nestled in the southeastern region of Umbria, completely enclosed by its 14th century walls and surrounded by the spectacular snow capped mountains of Monti Sibillini Park. With a great culinary history, this ancient town is famous for its lentils, prized black truffles, cheese and renowned brancaleone and dried salumis. The name salumi traces its roots back to 'sale' from its traditional salt curing process. Each type of salumi is known by the kind of meat and process by which it's cured, and in Norcia, because most of the meat come from wild boar, it's not surprising that heads of tusked cinghiale are hung in decoration outside many of the Norcerias throughout the town. Arriving for a visit since we were last in Norcia twelve years ago, much of the town and area homes were still being restored after the devastating earthquake that rocked the area in 2016. Fortunately the 13th century Basilica di San Benedetto was reopened for worship on October 31, 2025, exactly nine years after it was nearly destroyed by the powerful 6.6-magnitude earthquake on October 30, 2016. Thankfully, the shopkeepers were all open for business and the town was bustling on a beautiful sunny day on September 1st, the feast day of Umbria's Saint Terenzio.

Michael, owner of Brancaleone da Norcia, is where we bought thick slices 

of his hand carved Prosciutto di Norcia to bring home to our villa

Heads of Cinghale hang outside each of the Norcineria selling products unique to the area

14th-century bell tower of Norcia's Torre Civica bell tower is still being restored

after the area's devastating earthquake in 2016

Basilica di San Benedetto is now rebuilt after the devastating earthquake,

is built on the remains of the Saint's birthplace

The interior has a simple, single-nave design that blends elements 

from various eras after multiple seismic repairs

13th century Frescoed niche of Madonna and Child

Original Roman remnant of capital in the crypt's archaeological area, 

is associated with the imperial-era forum basilica

Smaller portion of an interior column from the imperial-era of the Basilica

Top portion of a capital with gargoyle-style features

Inside the crypt, particularly in the left apse — traditionally identified as the birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica — fragments of 14th-century frescoes are preserved

The masonry in the crypt preserves sections of 'opus reticulatum', an ancient Roman 

construction technique where small, diamond-shaped blocks of stone are set in a diagonal, 

net-like pattern around a concrete core

A Norcineria where we bought some local salsicce and cippolini

Hanging fresh cippolini

This historic stone gate, which serves as the primary southern entrance through the city's ancient 

14th-century defensive walls, the central archway on Porto Romana, is the village timekeeper

As the road ascends the slopes of the Sibillini Mountains towards Castellucio, 

there is a breathtaking view of Norcia in the the Valnerina

The ubiquitous Cinghale of Norcia are found throughout the hills 

Pasta alla Norcina

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Valeria Necchio

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

14 oz Italian pork sausages, crumbled

5 fl oz dry white wine

7 fl oz single cream

14 oz penne or rigatoni

1 3/4 oz Pecorino Romano, grated

fine sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil and the garlic in a large frying pan set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking and the garlic is fragrant, add the crumbled sausage. Brown the sausage, stirring and scraping all the while with a wooden spatula to prevent it from sticking and burning. Next, remove the garlic and pour in the wine. Allow it to evaporate while carrying on scraping the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and finish cooking the sausage in its own juices for 10 minutes. Uncover, taste and season. Pour in the cream and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Reduce it for 3–4 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside. 

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to the pan with the sausage and cream sauce. Place the pan over a low flame and toss the pasta to evenly coat it with sauce – you can let the sauce down with a little pasta water if you see it is getting too thick. Top the plated pasta with a generous dusting of grated pecorino and some freshly ground black pepper before serving.

Our Beautiful Umbrian Villa in Campello sul Clitunno

 

A 17th century stone villa with film-set worthy views across the undulating Umbrian hills, and nestled in hillside olive groves, Casa di Led was created by Sue Lederle, offered us cosy splendour in this timeless property where the real star of the show was the captivating vistas. The stone walls, terracotta tiles and wooden beams of the villa had been carefully restored and the interior décor was an elegant curation of antique finds and modern comforts. The five bedroom, beautifully restored 17th century villa with private pool and breathtaking views of the valley below, the house combined the feel of a mountain lodge with that of a country villa, seamlessly drawn together by the natural materials which offered the perfect foil to armoires, gold mirrors and chandeliers. The gentle palette reflected the landscape, matched by rich seams of Renaissance jewel colours, all blending cohesively together. Set high above the olive groves of Campello sul Clitunno, just two hours from Rome and minutes from Spoleto, the property looked out across the Clitunno Valley towards the ancient convent below, an Umbrian landscape reminiscent of Tuscany, only quieter and unmistakably Italian. Our home away from home for six glorious weeks, staying at this beautiful Umbrian villa was indeed, la dolce vita. 

The outdoor fireplace and sitting area for lounging with a glass of wine at dusk

Sun loungers on the upper terrazzo under the pergola

Woven basket full of towels by the pool

Terrazzo dining pergola overlooking the Clitunno Valley beside the wood-fired outdoor grill, 

weber barbecue and gourmet pizza oven plus outdoor fridge and sink

A little wine and salumi on a warm evening on the terrazzo

View from the villa to the walled Convent in the valley below

The beautiful sitting room in the Villa

The writing desk with view through window to the valley below,

is where I write my scrumpdillicious blogs

Antique Italian sideboard in the dining room

The stone Gourmet Kitchen with island

The main dining room with timber beam ceiling and stone floor

and views to the valley below

Reading nook with painting and vase of fresh lavender in our Master Bedroom

Breakfast terrazzo just off the kitchen

17th century steps to the five bedrooms on the second floor

View through stone alcove to the library

One of the five bedrooms in the villa

Ensuite bathroom

View from the villa of the Clituuno Valley

The olive grove around the villa property with delicious black olives

The Timeless Elegance of Il Pellicano: An Italian Oasis

 

The preferred get-away of the icons of the golden age of cinema, Hotel Il Pellicano sparkles with timeless glamour. Perched on the picturesque central east coast of Italy in Porto Ercole, the storied luxury hotel Il Pellicano commands breathtaking views of a bay that glistens under the brilliant Italian sun. A testament to elegance and refinement, this iconic establishment was brought to life in 1965 by Michael Graham, a British aviator, and Patsy Daszel, an American socialite. Cascading down a hillside adorned with fragrant rosemary and vibrant bougainvillea, Il Pellicano exudes timeless beauty and a captivating ambiance.

Over the years, Il Pellicano has played host to a captivating cast of illustrious guests. Charlie Chaplin himself once owned a cottage on the hotel grounds, and the Queen of the Netherlands was a regular visitor. In 1979, Roberto Scio, the owner of the Pellicano hotel group, recognized the exceptional potential of this hidden gem and acquired the property. With his visionary touch, Scio transformed Il Pellicano into a quintessential Tuscan retreat, captivating the hearts of the international jet-set. Today, Il Pellicano is under the discerning stewardship of Scio’s daughter, Marie-Louise Scio, who serves as the creative director. For four enchanting summer months each year, she relocates from Rome to the hotel, immersing herself in the idyllic atmosphere alongside her family. 

Reflecting on the eclectic mix of guests who grace the hotel’s elegant halls, Scio remarks, “It’s always such an interesting mix of people – we get honeymooners, art people, fashion people…” The hotel’s allure knows no bounds, attracting a diverse array of distinguished individuals seeking an unparalleled retreat. Arriving for three glorious days at this luxurious cliffside boutique resort, we looked forward to chef Michelino Gioia's Michelin star dining at Ristorante Il Pellicano and the glorious outdoor terrace of Pelligrill overlooking the pristine blue Tyrrhenian Sea, making it one of the most romantic addresses in Italy.

Il Pellicano was initially built in 1965 as a small hotel and private club by socialites 

Michael and Patricia Graham — he a decorated British pilot and she an American heiress

Sun loungers overlooking the sea

Pelligrill's breathtaking terrace overlooking the pristine blue Tyrrhenian Sea,

is one of our favourite restaurants in the world

The Michelin starred Ristorante Il Pellicano

Executive Chef Michelino Gioia

Clothes and novelty items are for purchase in the Boutique

Our Garden Suite at Il Pellicano

Our private garden at Il Pellicano

The sublime Il Pelicano location overlooking the the pristine blue Tyrrhenian Sea,

one of the most romantic boutique hotels in Italy

www.pellicanohotels.com/en/hotels/hotel-il-pellicano

Michelino Gioia’s Tuscan Vegetables Panzanella

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Chef Michelino Gioia, Il Pellicano

360 gr stale Tuscan bread

220 ml water, approximately

50 ml white wine vinegar

250 gr cherry tomatoes

220 gr cucumber

250 gr celery heart

80 gr red onion

40 gr basil

110 ml Tuscan EVO olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Cut the stale bread into cubes and place them into a deep dish. Separately, clean all the vegetables, wash them and cut them into thin lozenges, while the cherry tomatoes should be cut into 4. Place everything into a container and season with EVO olive oil, vinegar, water, salt and pepper. Let it macerate for about 30 minutes, so that everything takes on flavour. Take the stale bread cubes, soak them with the excess liquid from the vegetables and then pour over the seasoned vegetables. Finish the dish with a few fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of EVO olive oil to taste, and serve immediately.