Located in the 'green heart' of Italy and perched on a ridge overlooking the Tiber River valley, the beautiful Umbrian hillside town of Deruta is one of the “Borghi più Belli d'Italia”. Known throughout the world for its spectacular pottery, or ceramiche maiolica, it's an industry that has been central to the economy of the town since the 14th-century due to its rich local clay deposits combined with a position on historical trade routes allowed Deruta pottery to flourish and reach buyers across Europe, guaranteeing the town a notable income. It became one of Italy's most important centres of ceramic production during the Renaissance. Among the many celebrated patterns of Deruta majolica, Raffaellesco stands apart for its enduring charm and unmistakable identity.
Maiolica is still is produced in many Italian towns, including Orvieto, Castelli, Faenza and Sicily’s Caltagirone, but true maiolica devotées ultimately seek out Deruta, where hundreds of factories still produce the colourful ceramics that can be shipped worldwide. It's still possible to visit artists at work in some of the smaller shops in the town, as well as the famous Museo Regionale della Ceramica which is housed in what was once a Franciscan monastery. The oldest ceramic museum in Italy, the museum has displays explaining how ceramics have been produced throughout the centuries from the 14th-century up to the present day. Next door to the museum is the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Francesco, with its simple Gothic interior and spectacular 13th-century bell tower.
Arriving in Deruta on a glorious September afternoon, we were able to sniff around and have a good look in some at the town's famous ceramics, even purchasing two beautiful Majolica wine pitchers, including one with the iconic Raffaellesco dragon motif, traditionally attributed to the High Renaissance master Raphael. With our purchases in hand, we made our way along Corso Cavour to Taverna del Gusto, which was nestled in a small cobblestone courtyard where we had dined before while visiting Deruta years ago. Enjoying a glass of wine and sampling their traditional Umbrian cuisine with its strong focus on local ingredients, fresh handmade pasta and black truffles, dining at Taverna del Gusto was the delicious end to a wonderful day in Deruta.
The main entrance gate to Centro Storico di Deruta is Porta di San Michele Arcangelo,
which was built during the 13th/14th century
The most interesting shops are within the old walled town of Deruta
The cozy Caffe dei Consoli on Piazza dei Consoli,
was the ideal place to stop for a cappuccino and a dolce
with a lemon and vanilla-scented custard filling topped with crunchy pine nuts
Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Francesco dates back to the 14th-century,
when it was restored after the earthquake
by Domenico Alfani
The upper segments, or sails, of the apse vaulting are decorated with a deep blue background featuring the Franciscan coat of arms in the centre, flanked by representations of the four Evangelists
Deruta's internationally renowned Museo Regionale della Ceramica
originally from Deruta's Church of San Francesco, and features a view of the town of Deruta at the base
fresh handmade pasta, black truffles, and wild game
Fresh homemade Umbrian bread in woven basket
Torta della Nonna
Serves 8
Recipe courtesy of Mangia with Nonna
Almond Shortcrust Pastry:
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup almond flour
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold and cubed
1/2 cup powdered or granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 tsp baking powder
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup sliced almonds
2 tbsp pine nuts
Powdered sugar, for dusting
For the Pastry Cream/Custard Filling:
2 cups whole milk
4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup white sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp vanilla extract
In a food processor, combine the all-purpose flour, almond flour, sugar, baking powder, lemon zest, butter, egg, and egg yolk. Pulse just until the dough comes together. Form into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Prepare the Pastry Cream, by heating the milk with lemon zest in a saucepan until just simmering.In a bowl, whisk egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Return everything to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring continuously, until thick and smooth. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla, and let cool completely.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between parchment paper and line a 9-inch tart pan. Spread the cooled custard evenly over the base. Roll out the remaining dough and cover the tart. Seal edges well and prick the top lightly with a fork.Decorate with pine nuts and sliced almonds.
Bake for 30 minutes: First 15 minutes on the lower rack then move to the centre rack for the remaining time. Allow to cool completely before removing from the pan. Dust generously with powdered sugar before serving.
