Spello: Cappella Baglioni & La Cantina di Spello

Entering the ancient fortress walls of Spello one steps back in time, walking through medieval gateways, past Roman ruins and small shops that have been run by the same family for generations. Spello is all texture, with rose coloured stone walls, crumbling terracotta roof tiles, stone pathways, and weathered wooden doors. The splendidly intact town walls are draped around the centro storico like a necklace. Populated in ancient times by the Umbri, Spello became a Roman colony in the 1st century BC. 'Hispellum' was originally a Roman settlement – it lay on the Via Flaminia consular road, close to the strategic junction for Perugia. The most impressive remnant of this stage of the town's history, apart from the walls themselves, is the Porta Venere, an Augustan-era gate flanked by two 12-sided towers, standing in magnificent isolation on the west side of town. 

Most of the other sights are scattered along Via Cavour, the main street, beginning with impressive 12th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. This church has a finely sculpted medieval portal, but the real treat is inside — the Cappella Baglioni side-chapel a wonderful cycle of frescoes by the Perugia-born artist Pinturicchio, painted in 1501 for the powerful Baglioni family and centred on the birth and childhood of Jesus. 

Another pleasure is exploring the culinary culture of this picturesque hill town, such as Chef Valeriano Federici and Faust Benedetti's La Cantina where they serve refined versions of typical Umbrian dishes made with fresh local ingredients that come from members of the farm that runs the the restaurant, as well as fresh homemade pasta and local seasonal produce, from Norcia truffles and locally grown rapunzoli. La Cantina also offers a solid range of fine wines from the cellars of Montefalco Sagrantino, Grechetto and other of the best Italian wine cellars. The homemade pasta and gnocchi of red potatoes of Colfiorito are among the specialties of the menu, including dishes with truffle, Chianina meat, grilled pigeon or salad rapunzoli. 

The restaurant also sells typical Umbrian produce such as Salamino al Tartufo, Pecorino Stagionata in Fosso, local jams and a line of handmade Umbrian pottery. On Wednesdays, there's a wonderful Famers Market just outside the city walls, but Spello's other pleasure is the civilized pace of life of the town and the lovely Subasio marble from which it is built, which takes on a peach-pink hue around sunrise and sunset. 

The Medieval portal of Santa Maria Maggiore that used to be open to the public,

but now access is around the corner

Cappella Baglioni, Spello's most significant chapel is known for its Renaissance frescoes by Pinturicchio

The Vaulted ceiling of the Baglioni Chapel, features the four female prophets, 

Tiburtina, Eritrea, Europea and Samia seated on thrones 

The Adoration of the Shepherds depicts the Nativity set against an idyllic, 

expansive Italian landscape with a temple-like stable

Pinturicchio's fresco of Christ Among the Doctors

Pinturecchio’s fresco of the Annunciation set in a large Renaissance loggia

Under the small bookshelf Pinturecchio’s fresco of the Annunciation is a self-portrait of Pinturicchio, featuring an inscription referring to Pinturicchio’s birth name of Bernardino di Betto

Cappella di Sant’Anna is a 14th-century oratory famous for its well-preserved 

Renaissance and late-medieval frescoes

The exterior of Chiesa di Sant'Andrea dates back to the 13th century, 

showcasing a simple, austere Romanesque style

Located in the heart of Spello, the Church of Sant'Andrea is an architectural gem 

rooted in medieval history, with a large altarpiece by Pinturicchio c.1508

Fresco of The Meeting of Saints Joachim and Anne by Dono Doni c.1565

The beautiful late-15th-century frescoes in the Baptistery Chapel

where our dear friend Paul lit a candle for a relative who is not in good health

La Cantina is in the heart of Spello on Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour

The warm and inviting, La Cantina was converted from an old vaulted stone cellar

A basket of warm bread

The signed hand painted place setting was made by local ceramist Roberto Domiziani 

We began our lunch with a glass of Bortolomiol Miol Treviso Extra Dry Prosecco

Our precious straw hats had the perfect perch on a vacant table 

Sformatino di Patate e Porcini con fonduta di Reggiano e Tartufo Nero

Stracciatella di Burrata con Alici

Zupetta di Fagioli con Proscuitto e Cotiche

A bottle of Adanti Montefalco Sagrantino 2017

from the historic, family-run winery located in the hills of Montefalco and Bevagna in Umbria

Sagrantino is an indigenous Umbrian grape famous for having some of the most potent, 

structured tannins in the wine world

Agnello a Scottaditto con rucola — the word scottadito translates to "burned fingers" 

for the lamb is meant to be picked up and eaten immediately with your hands, 

often burning your fingers a little in the process

Galetto alla Brace

Guancia di Vitello Brasata alla Sagrantino

Spinaci

Patate alla Rosmarino

Macchiato

www.lacantinadispello.com

Sformatino di Patate e Porcini 

Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of Chef Valeriano Federici, La Cantina

1 lb red Colfiorito potatoes, peeled and diced

2 oz white Cannara onions

1/2 lb fresh porcini mushrooms , finely sliced

1 oz Extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup double cream

1 oz grated parmesan cheese

3 egg whites

1 oz vegetable broth powder

Sauce:

4 cups double cream

4 cups dairy milk

5 oz fresh ricotta cheese

5 oz grated parmesan cheese

2 oz fresh Black truffle

Salt to taste

Extra vergin olive oil, for garnish 

Pour the olive oil in a heavy bottomed stainless steel pot. Add the finely chopped onion and allow it to soften, then add the potatoes and close the lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until they are partially mashed. Add a little hot water if the mixture is too dry. Add the finely sliced mushrooms and finish cooking for about 20 minutes, remove from heat and let cool slightly. Then combine the remaining ingredients, stirring with a spoon to make the mixture homogeneous. 

Pour the mixture into circular single-dose aluminum moulds, sprayed with the oil and bake in a water bath for about 25 to 30 minutes at 350°F until they have taken firmed up and lightly browned. While the flans are baking, pour the milk and cream in a steel saucepan, then add the combine ricotta and Parmesan and warm up on a low heat. Use an immersion mixer to create a smooth sauce, and add half of the finely grated truffle and a pinch of salt. Keep the sformato warm until they're ready to serve. 

Remove the flans from the oven and while still hot, place them individually on a warmed dish, cover completely with the sauce and serve very hot, garnished with the remaining fresh truffles, thinly sliced,​ and olive oil.

Medieval Gubbio and Taverna del Lupo

 

Founded by the Umbri, Gubbio is a stunning Medieval hilltown in Northern Umbria that holds the famous Eugubine Tablets, seven bronze slabs that survived from the ancient city of Iguvium. Engraved in the 2nd century BC, the tablets were discovered by a farmer in 1444 who later sold them for two years of grazing rights, having no idea of how valuable they'd be to historians. The tablets are written in the local language of the time, the only documents of this ancient culture which has come down to us in a complete state, and underscore the importance of Gubbio as one, if not the most important political and religious centres of ancient Umbria, providing crucial evidence of the life of the region before Roman times. They are the longest surviving text in any ancient Italic language other than Latin and a key source for Italic religion. 

Housed in the impressive Palazzo dei Consoli overlooking the Piazza Grande within the walled city of Gubbio, the building is an incredible example of Gothic architecture and holds the astounding Museo and Pinoteca Civico — custodian of the tablets as well as an extraordinary collection of paintings, frescoes, ceramica and artifacts from Gubbio over the centuries. One of the most impressive Museums in Umbria, with the exception of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell'Umbria in Perugia, the Pinoteca in the stunning Palazzo dei Consoli defines the skyline of Gubbio, with the views from the upper loggia over the valley a breathtaking sight, especially with a bustling farmer's market which takes place on Saturdays in the square below in Piazza 40 Martiri.

Walking back from the market, along Gubbio's steep cobblestone streets, was made all the more inviting knowing that we were about the have one of the best meals during our month in Italy, at Taverna del Lupo. Run by the Mencarelli family, this award winning restaurant set in a series of Medieval dining rooms, is considered to be one of the best restaurants in Umbria, and having been there a few years before, we knew it was going to be a thoroughly delicious experience. Soft light casts flattering shadows across the barrel-vaulted interior of Gubbio's most sophisticated restaurant, with an exceptional menu of classic Umbian dishes, white linen draped tables and polished professional service. Some of the dishes not to be missed are Chef Claudio Ramacci's soft egg with fresh seasonal truffles, homemade tagliatelle and superlatively grilled meats and game. The restaurant also has an excellent wine cellar with over 5000 labels, which make an exceptional meal even better.

Gubbio's Palazzo dei Consoli on Piazza Grande with its majestic, 

fan-shaped external stone staircase

Bronze finial on the staircase leading up to Palazzo dei Consoli,

overlooking the dramatic 14th-century suspended medieval square of Piazza Grande

Fresco at the foot of the stairs leading to the Sala d’ Arengo by Guiduccio Palmerucci in 1342, 

depicts the Madonna and Child with Saint John the Baptist and Saint Ubaldus

Local medieval European armory on the main floor of the Museo Civico Palazzo dei Consoli

Inscribed limestone slab from the Gubbio Roman Theatre between 27 BC and 14AD

in the Lapidarium Collection of Archaeology of the Sala d’ Arengo

The long stone staircase leads up to the extraordinary bronze Iguvine Tablets
found at Gubbio, ancient Iguvium, in Umbria and date back 2,000-2,300 years

The original room in the Palazzo where the Eugubian Tablets, a series of seven bronze tablets from ancient Iguvium, have been held since 1444

Written in both Umbrian and Latin, the tablets shed light on the grammar of this ancient dead language, and also on the religious practices of the ancient peoples of Italy

One of the Eugubian tablets written in an Umbrian language that predates Latin

These are the only documents of the ancient religions of Europe and the Mediterranean which have come down to us in an almost complete state

The tablets are mounted in specialized hinged or double-sided wooden frames that can be swiveled, allowing visitors to see the ancient inscriptions on both sides

The tablets are written in both the Umbrian and Latin languages

14th-century fresco of Madonna con Bambino from Chiesa di San Benedetto in Gubbio

Apothecary pot as part of the Egubine Collection that were donated by

hospitals that were once associated with convents and monasteries

Apothecary pot

Vintage Apothecary Jar inscribed 'F. di Sabina' stands for Folia di Sabina or Savin leaves,

referencing an historical pharmaceutical preparation of Juniperus sabina, known as Savin juniper

17th century Italian Maiolica from Alberobello with 'No. D. Pionb' which stands for 

Unguentum de Plumbo, or related lead-based ointment from the Latin plumbum meaning lead

Plate from Gubbio depicting the Palazzo dei Consoli by Giovanni Spinaci frim 1882

View of Gubbio through heavy, austere iron-barred windows

on the top flor of the Palazzo dei Consoli

A Medieval water closet within the 14th-century Palazzo dei Consoli, 

and featured a fully integrated sanitation system built between 1332 and 1349

The Piano Nobile is the largest room in the Palazzo dei Consoli, 

which features a long oak table that was used for formal municipal dinners 

The Pentecost by Benedetto Nucci 1515

The Piano Nobile with 15th-century solid walnut chest historically used 

for storing municipal documents and textiles

The palace was the first in the city served by a public hydraulic system, 

which fed this fountain which can still be found in the main salon of the Palazzo

Detail of the stone fountain where water would spurt out from the cherubs mouth

Beautiful carved wooden door detail

Contented Pigeon perched on the ledge of the outdoor Loggia

View over Gubbio from the panoramic outdoor Loggia

View over Gubbio's Farmer's Market and parking area on Piazza 40 Martiri

where in fact we had parked our car

View over the Piazza Grande of the Palazzo Pretorio, 

which is is a medieval palace located across from the Palazzo dei Consoli 

View of Palazzo dei Consoli from Mount Ingino, as we walked up the hill to Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo

The rocky perch of Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo above Gubbio

My husband and our friend Paul on our long uphill walk to the Basilica

Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo was built in the 1500s, and once rich in stucco decoration from the Baroque era, much of this was destroyed during bombing during the Second World War 

The interior ceiling and dome feature extensive 18th-century fresco cycles 

Fresco reliefs of regional saints, church doctors, and angelic figures decorate the dome

Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo stained glass depict episodes and scenes from the life of Saint Ubaldo, 

the 12th-century bishop and patron saint of Gubbio

Another stained glass window depicting an episode from the life of Saint Ubaldo

Taverna del Lupo is our favourite restaurant in Gubbio

The entrance of Taverna del Lupo with beautiful reception desk

The Taverna del Lupo logo on the exterior stone wall

 

Taverna del Lupo's elegant barrel-vaulted Medieval dining room

The menu features sophisticated Umbrian cuisine based on traditional Gubbian dishes and recipes

Bread and grissini served in a linen napkin in a silver bowl

Our friendly server presenting our bottle of Astoria Prosecco

A lovely glass of Prosecco 

Frittata Gentile con Tartufo di Stagione

Prosciutto di Norcia tagliato al coltello con “brustengo di Gubbio”

Lonzino marinato al profumo dell'orto, con pere e pecorino di Norcia

Flan di porri e patate con funghi porcini

We ordered a rather spiffy bottle of Molino dell'Attone Montefalco Sagrantino 2020

A Rich and complex and absolutely delicious Sagrantino

Bistecca alla Fiorentina di carne chianina, condita con sale e olio extravergine di oliva del frantoio

Jus for the Tagliata

Controfiletto di Vitello alla griglia con burro e salvia

Filetto di Maiale in Salsa Sagrantino con cipollotti cannara e un piatto tipico di Gubbio

Funghi porcini trifolati al prezzemolo

Patate arrosto al rosmarino

Homemade Tozzetti with Vin Santo

Macchiato with a tozzetti

Well look who was at Taverna del Lupo a few years ago,

the one and only Stanley Tucci

www.tavernadellupo.it/en/taverna-del-lupo-it

Prosciutto di Norcia Tagliato al coltello con “brustengo di Gubbio”

(Umbrian Fried Flat Bread (Brustengo) with Prosciutto

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of chef Claudio Ramacci, La Taverna del Lupo

A classic Umbrian peasant-style fried flatbread served hot and draped with thin slices of prosciutto.

2 1/2 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup boiling water

2 tsp olive oil, plus extra for frying

Paper-thin slices of prosciutto

Process the flour, salt, boiling water, and oil in a food processor until smooth and elastic, about 40 seconds. Divide into 10 equal small balls, rolling each into a 6-inch circle, and keep separated with parchment paper. Fry each circle in a heavy skillet with a little olive oil over medium-high heat for about 1 1/2 minutes per side until lightly browned. To serve, cut into wedges or leave whole while warm, and top each with a half-slice of prosciutto.

Gubbio's Market Area