Castelluccio di Norcia: The Prized Lentils of Umbria

Set against the majestic Sibillini Mountains high up on the Castelllucio plateau in the heart of Italy’s Apennine Mountain Range, the story of Castelluccio lentils is a tale of centuries-old traditions, and of families farming ancient lands in much the same way their ancestors did. Famous for their flavour, size, and ability to grow in a challenging mountain environment, these lentils represent a unique example of how agriculture can adapt to high-altitude landscapes. Winters are cold, and the growing season is relatively short, typically lasting from late spring to early autumn. These conditions limit crop diversity, but they create an ideal environment for lentils.

Today the lentils of Castelluccio di Norcia represent more than just a local crop. They are part of a landscape where agriculture, environment, and cultural tradition intersect. On a mountain plateau where farming conditions are demanding, this small legume has become a symbol of regional identity and sustainable high-altitude agriculture. Arriving for a day trip while visiting Norcia, this was our first time in Castellucio, and it quite possibly one of the most beautiful places in Umbria. Having heard about Ristorante Taverna Castelluccio, we stopped for lunch in their new premises after the town was all but destroyed in the catastrophic earthquake that struck the entire region in 2016.

For three generations, the Caponeccin family has lovingly run Taverna Castelluccio, in the heart of the Sibillini Mountains. Here, tradition is served at the table with genuine Umbrian dishes, local ingredients, and breathtaking views, welcoming every guest like one of the family for over 39 years. After lunch, we stopped to purchase some Castelluccio lentils from Patrizio, who runs one of his family's 'Azienda Agricola di Castelluccio di Norcia' stalls in town, and what a jolly fellow he was, as he bid us farewell with a smiling "Ciao Ragazzi"!

Local flowers decorate our table at Taverna Castelluccio

Embossed leather menu of Taverna Castelluccio

Il Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi di Villa Bucci

Basket of warm homemade bread

Zuppa le lenticchie IGP Bio, indicates 'Indicazione Geografica Protetta', ensuring the lentils 

comes from a specific region and follows strict local farming rules

Fresh Strengozzi al Tartufo Nero Fresco

Tagliata di Manzo Argentino al Tartufo Nero and Umbrian EVO

Patate al Forno

Cicoria saltata in padella

The half bottle of Verdicchio was simply delicious

Crostata Castelluccio con lenticche e ricotta with fresh yogurt with berries

A perfect Macchiato 

Created by one of the owners grandchildren, the 'conto' was charming

One of the chefs of Taverna Castelluccio with a big smile,

when I asked her if I could take her photograph

The Piano Grande of Castellucciio in the Monti Sibillini National Park, 

dominated by Monte Vettore, the highest peak in the range

Lovely Patrizio who sold us 8 packages of Lenticche di Castelluccio,

with a 'Ciao Ragazzi' as we left — "Bye-bye kids!

The small outdoor stall where Patrizio sells the prized Castellucccio Lentils

Umbria's prized lentils from Castelluccio are tiny brown jewels 

with a delicate flavour and wonderfully tender texture

Norcia: The Land of Truffles, Salumi & Cinghiale

 

Norcia is a small picturesque town nestled in the southeastern region of Umbria, completely enclosed by its 14th century walls and surrounded by the spectacular snow capped mountains of Monti Sibillini Park. With a great culinary history, this ancient town is famous for its lentils, prized black truffles, cheese and renowned brancaleone and dried salumis. The name salumi traces its roots back to 'sale' from its traditional salt curing process. Each type of salumi is known by the kind of meat and process by which it's cured, and in Norcia, because most of the meat come from wild boar, it's not surprising that heads of tusked cinghiale are hung in decoration outside many of the Norcerias throughout the town. Arriving for a visit since we were last in Norcia twelve years ago, much of the town and area homes were still being restored after the devastating earthquake that rocked the area in 2016. Fortunately the 13th century Basilica di San Benedetto was reopened for worship on October 31, 2025, exactly nine years after it was nearly destroyed by the powerful 6.6-magnitude earthquake on October 30, 2016. Thankfully, the shopkeepers were all open for business and the town was bustling on a beautiful sunny day on September 1st, the feast day of Umbria's Saint Terenzio.

Michael, owner of Brancaleone da Norcia, is where we bought thick slices 

of his hand carved Prosciutto di Norcia to bring home to our villa

Heads of Cinghale hang outside each of the Norcineria selling products unique to the area

14th-century bell tower of Norcia's Torre Civica bell tower is still being restored

after the area's devastating earthquake in 2016

Basilica di San Benedetto is now rebuilt after the devastating earthquake,

is built on the remains of the Saint's birthplace

The interior has a simple, single-nave design that blends elements 

from various eras after multiple seismic repairs

13th century Frescoed niche of Madonna and Child

Original Roman remnant of capital in the crypt's archaeological area, 

is associated with the imperial-era forum basilica

Smaller portion of an interior column from the imperial-era of the Basilica

Top portion of a capital with gargoyle-style features

Inside the crypt, particularly in the left apse — traditionally identified as the birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica — fragments of 14th-century frescoes are preserved

The masonry in the crypt preserves sections of 'opus reticulatum', an ancient Roman 

construction technique where small, diamond-shaped blocks of stone are set in a diagonal, 

net-like pattern around a concrete core

A Norcineria where we bought some local salsicce and cippolini

Hanging fresh cippolini

This historic stone gate, which serves as the primary southern entrance through the city's ancient 

14th-century defensive walls, the central archway on Porto Romana, is the village timekeeper

As the road ascends the slopes of the Sibillini Mountains towards Castellucio, 

there is a breathtaking view of Norcia in the the Valnerina

The ubiquitous Cinghale of Norcia are found throughout the hills 

Pasta alla Norcina

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Valeria Necchio

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

14 oz Italian pork sausages, crumbled

5 fl oz dry white wine

7 fl oz single cream

14 oz penne or rigatoni

1 3/4 oz Pecorino Romano, grated

fine sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil and the garlic in a large frying pan set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking and the garlic is fragrant, add the crumbled sausage. Brown the sausage, stirring and scraping all the while with a wooden spatula to prevent it from sticking and burning. Next, remove the garlic and pour in the wine. Allow it to evaporate while carrying on scraping the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and finish cooking the sausage in its own juices for 10 minutes. Uncover, taste and season. Pour in the cream and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Reduce it for 3–4 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside. 

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to the pan with the sausage and cream sauce. Place the pan over a low flame and toss the pasta to evenly coat it with sauce – you can let the sauce down with a little pasta water if you see it is getting too thick. Top the plated pasta with a generous dusting of grated pecorino and some freshly ground black pepper before serving.

Our Beautiful Umbrian Villa in Campello sul Clitunno

 

A 17th century stone villa with film-set worthy views across the undulating Umbrian hills, and nestled in hillside olive groves, Casa di Led was created by Sue Lederle, offered us cosy splendour in this timeless property where the real star of the show was the captivating vistas. The stone walls, terracotta tiles and wooden beams of the villa had been carefully restored and the interior décor was an elegant curation of antique finds and modern comforts. The five bedroom, beautifully restored 17th century villa with private pool and breathtaking views of the valley below, the house combined the feel of a mountain lodge with that of a country villa, seamlessly drawn together by the natural materials which offered the perfect foil to armoires, gold mirrors and chandeliers. The gentle palette reflected the landscape, matched by rich seams of Renaissance jewel colours, all blending cohesively together. Set high above the olive groves of Campello sul Clitunno, just two hours from Rome and minutes from Spoleto, the property looked out across the Clitunno Valley towards the ancient convent below, an Umbrian landscape reminiscent of Tuscany, only quieter and unmistakably Italian. Our home away from home for six glorious weeks, staying at this beautiful Umbrian villa was indeed, la dolce vita. 

The outdoor fireplace and sitting area for lounging with a glass of wine at dusk

Sun loungers on the upper terrazzo under the pergola

Woven basket full of towels by the pool

Terrazzo dining pergola overlooking the Clitunno Valley beside the wood-fired outdoor grill, 

weber barbecue and gourmet pizza oven plus outdoor fridge and sink

A little wine and salumi on a warm evening on the terrazzo

View from the villa to the walled Convent in the valley below

The beautiful sitting room in the Villa

The writing desk with view through window to the valley below,

is where I write my scrumpdillicious blogs

Antique Italian sideboard in the dining room

The stone Gourmet Kitchen with island

The main dining room with timber beam ceiling and stone floor

and views to the valley below

Reading nook with painting and vase of fresh lavender in our Master Bedroom

Breakfast terrazzo just off the kitchen

17th century steps to the five bedrooms on the second floor

View through stone alcove to the library

One of the five bedrooms in the villa

Ensuite bathroom

View from the villa of the Clituuno Valley

The olive grove around the villa property with delicious black olives