Deruta: The Heart of Italian Maiolica Ceramics

 

Located in the 'green heart' of Italy and perched on a ridge overlooking the Tiber River valley, the beautiful Umbrian hillside town of Deruta is one of the “Borghi più Belli d'Italia”. Known throughout the world for its spectacular pottery, or ceramiche maiolica, it's an industry that has been central to the economy of the town since the 14th-century due to its rich local clay deposits combined with a position on historical trade routes allowed Deruta pottery to flourish and reach buyers across Europe, guaranteeing the town a notable income. It became one of Italy's most important centres of ceramic production during the Renaissance. Among the many celebrated patterns of Deruta majolica, Raffaellesco stands apart for its enduring charm and unmistakable identity.

Maiolica is still is produced in many Italian towns, including Orvieto, Castelli, Faenza and Sicily’s Caltagirone, but true maiolica devotées ultimately seek out Deruta, where hundreds of factories still produce the colourful ceramics that can be shipped worldwide. It's still possible to visit artists at work in some of the smaller shops in the town, as well as the famous Museo Regionale della Ceramica which is housed in what was once a Franciscan monastery. The oldest ceramic museum in Italy, the museum has displays explaining how ceramics have been produced throughout the centuries from the 14th-century up to the present day. Next door to the museum is the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Francesco, with its simple Gothic interior and spectacular 13th-century bell tower.

Arriving in Deruta on a glorious September afternoon, we were able to sniff around and have a good look in some at the town's famous ceramics, even purchasing two beautiful Majolica wine pitchers, including one with the iconic Raffaellesco dragon motif, traditionally attributed to the High Renaissance master Raphael. With our purchases in hand, we made our way along Corso Cavour to Taverna del Gusto, which was nestled in a small cobblestone courtyard where we had dined before while visiting Deruta years ago. Enjoying a glass of wine and sampling their traditional Umbrian cuisine with its strong focus on local ingredients, fresh handmade pasta and black truffles, dining at Taverna del Gusto was the delicious end to a wonderful day in Deruta.

The main entrance gate to Centro Storico di Deruta is Porta di San Michele Arcangelo, 

which was built during the 13th/14th century

The most interesting shops are within the old walled town of Deruta

Beautiful Deruta Vase

Commune di Deruta ceramic plaque on Corso Cavour 

Deruta's beautiful polygonal stone fountain built in 1848

The cozy Caffe dei Consoli on Piazza dei Consoli, 

was the ideal place to stop for a cappuccino and a dolce

il cappuccino

The delicious Torta della Nonna was a slice of Umbrian indulgence, 

with a lemon and vanilla-scented custard filling topped with crunchy pine nuts

Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Francesco dates back to the 14th-century, 

when it was restored after the earthquake 

A simple Gothic design with a single uninterrupted nave and open wooden truss ceilings

Fresco of Madonna and Child between St. Francis and St. Bernardino of Siena

by Domenico Alfani 

The upper segments, or sails, of the apse vaulting are decorated with a deep blue background featuring the Franciscan coat of arms in the centre, flanked by representations of the four Evangelists

The 13th-Century Bell Tower of the Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Francesco

Deruta's internationally renowned Museo Regionale della Ceramica 

Vintage ceramica outside the Chiesa

14th-century Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli is home of Deruta's Pinacoteca Comunale

A detached fresco of God the Father with Saints Romano and Rocco by Perugino, 

originally from Deruta's Church of San Francesco, and features a view of the town of Deruta at the base

The ceramic sign leading to Taverna del Gusto off Corso Cavour

The charming outdoor courtyard with handprinted tabletops

Taverna del Gusto serves traditional Umbrian cuisine with a strong focus on local ingredients, 

fresh handmade pasta, black truffles, and wild game

Fresh homemade Umbrian bread in woven basket

Terre di Capitane Olio extra vergine di oliva

Taverna del Gusto's jug of Grechetto di Orvieto

A refined and elegant wine with a fruity fragrant finish

A glass of Lungarotti Rosso di Montefalco, lovely and full-bodied

Flan di Ricotta su nido di cima di rapa

Omelette con Tartufo

Tagliata Ruccola e Grana Padana

Umbricelli alla Carbonara al Tartufo

On our way back through the main gates

Passing a lovely front door in Deruta with beautiful ceramic arch detail

Pasta alla Norma con Salsiccia: A Taste of Italy

 

One of Sicily’s most iconic pasta dishes, Pasta alla Norma is a testament to the region’s rich culinary heritage and how combining a few simple ingredients can result in a culinary masterpiece. Named in honour of the famous opera 'Norma' composed by Vincenzo Bellini, a local of Catania, this traditional Sicilian dish is especially delicious in the summer when eggplant are in season. Inspired by the classic Sicilian dish, Pasta alla Norma con Salsiccia combines traditional Italian aubergines, San Marzano tomatoes with savoury Umbrian sausages from our local butcher, for a hearty twist on classic Pasta alla Norma. 

Located near our villa, Macelleria Il Castello is highly celebrated for their cured and fresh Umbrian pork sausages as the shop manages its own livestock, and sources high-quality meats directly from their family-run farm. Prepared following rigorous regional traditions, often hand-tied and seasoned with perfect blends of local spices, their sausages beautifully capture the rich, authentic flavors of Umbria, and made our Pasta alla Norma con Salsiccia assolutamente delizioso.

Umbrian pork sausages from Macelleria Il Castello, 

a traditional artisan butcher shop located near Assisi in Santa Maria degli Angeli

Local Umbrian aubergines, the undisputed queens of late summer produce

Pasta alla Norma con Salsiccia

Serves 4

1 large or 2 small eggplants, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 Italian pork sausages, meat removed from casings

3/4 lb Fusilli Pasta

14 oz San Marzano canned tomatoes

2 tbsp tomato paste

2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced 

1 small shallot, finely diced

10 leaves fresh basil 

1/2 cup grated Parmigiana

2-4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, according to taste

Salt, black pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flakes

Heat the olive oil in a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the sausage meat and fry until golden brown and broken into small pieces, about 5 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pan. In the same skillet, fry the cubed eggplant in the leftover sausage fat, adding a little extra olive oil as required, until golden brown and tender, about 6 to 10 minutes. Remove and set aside.

Then add the sliced garlic and diced shallot to the skillet, cooking until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, red pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper, and simmer for about 15-20 minutes. Stir the browned sausage meat and most of the fried eggplant back into the tomato sauce, and cook until well combined.

In the meantime, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, then add the fusilli and cook until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the starchy cooking water before draining. Once the pasta is ready, toss it directly into the sausage and eggplant ragù, adding a splash of pasta water to emulsify. Top with fresh torn basil and serve with a bowl of grated parmigiana.

Pienza & Ristorante Terrazza della Val d'Orcia

 

Pliny the Elder praised it and Lorenzo the Magnificent was fond of it: pecorino di Pienza is a cheese that for centuries has embodied the taste of the land and traditions of one of Tuscany's most beautiful valleys, the Val d'Orcia. Located in the stunning hills between Montepulciano and Montalcino, Pienza is a charming Renaissance village that produces some of the best pecorino cheese in the country. It's also the first town we visit whenever we're in Umbria. Named after locally born Pope Pius II, Penza has been a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site since 1996. The architectural focal point is the square Piazza Pio II, surrounded by the Duomo and pope's family residence, Palazzo Piccolomini, and the beautiful gardens in the Palazzo's interior courtyard. However, the culinary spotlight is the town's Pecorino cheese together with the Pienza's friendly shop owners, quaint cobblestone streets, lovely restaurants and quiet unhurried lifestyle. With it's small size and charismatic centro storico, this beautiful little hilltop town captures the true essence of Tuscany.

One of the finest and most beautiful restaurants in Pienza was La Terrazza del Chiostro, located in a 15th-century ex-convent beside the Palazzo Piccolomini. Unfortunately it is now closed having recently been absorbed into a new hotel, Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza. Tutto cambia — everything changes. Fortunately we discovered Terrazza della Val d'Orcia, a lovely restaurant with fine cuisine and magnificent views of the Tuscan Val d'Orcia, a breathtaking landscape celebrated by the Sienese School which flourished during the Renaissance. As we were enjoying a lovely glass of Prosecco on the outdoor terrace, ominous black clouds were building signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm. Grabbing our bubbley, we darted inside and nestled in the restaurant's beautiful dining room to enjoy our lunch. Tutto è andato bene. 

Piazza Pio II with town clock

We strolled along the ancient town walls on Via del Casello 

with views of the spectacular Val d'Orcia

Bar il Casello is well known for its casual outdoor dining on the historic town wall

with fabulous views over the Val d'Orcia

The Duomo di Pienza, which dominates the centre of the piazza, 

has a facade that is one of the earliest designed in the Renaissance manner

Built between 1459 and 1462 by order of Pope Pius II, born Enea Silvio Piccolomini,

the Gothic interior features tall windows that flood the interior with natural light

The columns and piers feature finely carved, decorated capitals that support the soaring arcade arches, combining Gothic verticality with classicizing Renaissance details

Candles before Matteo di Giovanni's 'Madonna con S. Caterina, S. Matteo, 

S. Bartolomeo and S.Lucia'

Terrazza della Val d'Orcia with our table overlooking the magnificent Tuscan landscape

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut

The perfect beginning to any lunch

An elegant Prosecco that tickles the tastebuds

A basket of warm homemade bread

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano shines as the white queen in a land of Red Kings

Balanced, dry and highly distinctive, the 'White Queen' is outstanding

and most definitely my favourite Italian white wine  

With ominous skies building, signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm,

we dashed inside - with my White Queen of course

The interior of Terrazza della Val d'Orcia was warm, elegant and simply lovely

With fresh linen napkins and sparkling glasses, 

we were happy to be inside from 'il pioggia battente'

Fiore do Carciofi al forno su spuma di Pecorino di Pienza, crumble doi mandorle,

olio e prezzemolo ed erbette stagionali

'Quasi un Camambert' - Pecorino a crosta fiorita al forno con miele di acacia biologico,

pepe verde, lampone, gherigli di noce e pane croccante

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

The highest expression of this territory, this wine smells like Montepulciano,

"full bodied, strongly powerful and bombastic" aka yummy

Guanchetta di Cinghiale cotta a bassa temperatura, fondente di patate,

verdure artiginale in agrodolce ed il 'bagnate verde' revisionato alla maniera Toscana

Filetto di Chianina IGP alla griglia mediamente raro, accompagnato il nostro burro

agli aromi della Val D'Orcia, il piccolo cilindro di patate e aspergi ed il nostro olive evo al rosmarino

Spinaci saltati in padella al burro de misel

Le nostre patate al forno con il sale aromatico della Val D'Orcia

Tartelletta composta da due dischi di friabile biscotto sablè, 

intervallati con crema pasticcera e guarniti da un bouquet di frutta fresca

Macchiato

Marusca e Maria Prodotti Tipici della Toscana in Pienza

Wheels of pungent Pienza pecorino which is very challenging to resist 

Arte & Preziosi is a special boutique and jewelry workshop in Pienza, founded and run by jewelry designer Anna Porcu along with her mother Beatrice and collaborator Luciana

Palazzo Maisaini is an historic 13th-century estate located in the heart of the Val d'Orcia 

Famous worldwide for its breathtaking winding gravel driveway lined with towering Italian cypress trees, it's one of the most photographed and iconic postcard views of the Tuscan countryside

The medieval castle operates as a winery, farm, and agritourism estate where guests can stay, sample local wines, take cooking classes or stop to photograph the classic cypress-lined path

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