Founded by the Umbri, Gubbio is a stunning Medieval hilltown in Northern Umbria that holds the famous Eugubine Tablets, seven bronze slabs that survived from the ancient city of Iguvium. Engraved in the 2nd century BC, the tablets were discovered by a farmer in 1444 who later sold them for two years of grazing rights, having no idea of how valuable they'd be to historians. The tablets are written in the local language of the time, the only documents of this ancient culture which has come down to us in a complete state, and underscore the importance of Gubbio as one, if not the most important political and religious centres of ancient Umbria, providing crucial evidence of the life of the region before Roman times. They are the longest surviving text in any ancient Italic language other than Latin and a key source for Italic religion.
Housed in the impressive Palazzo dei Consoli overlooking the Piazza Grande within the walled city of Gubbio, the building is an incredible example of Gothic architecture and holds the astounding Museo and Pinoteca Civico — custodian of the tablets as well as an extraordinary collection of paintings, frescoes, ceramica and artifacts from Gubbio over the centuries. One of the most impressive Museums in Umbria, with the exception of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell'Umbria in Perugia, the Pinoteca in the stunning Palazzo dei Consoli defines the skyline of Gubbio, with the views from the upper loggia over the valley a breathtaking sight, especially with a bustling farmer's market which takes place on Saturdays in the square below in Piazza 40 Martiri.
Walking back from the market, along Gubbio's steep cobblestone streets, was made all the more inviting knowing that we were about the have one of the best meals during our month in Italy, at Taverna del Lupo. Run by the Mencarelli family, this award winning restaurant set in a series of Medieval dining rooms, is considered to be one of the best restaurants in Umbria, and having been there a few years before, we knew it was going to be a thoroughly delicious experience. Soft light casts flattering shadows across the barrel-vaulted interior of Gubbio's most sophisticated restaurant, with an exceptional menu of classic Umbian dishes, white linen draped tables and polished professional service. Some of the dishes not to be missed are Chef Claudio Ramacci's soft egg with fresh seasonal truffles, homemade tagliatelle and superlatively grilled meats and game. The restaurant also has an excellent wine cellar with over 5000 labels, which make an exceptional meal even better.
Gubbio's Palazzo dei Consoli on Piazza Grande with its majestic,
fan-shaped external stone staircase
Bronze finial on the staircase leading up to Palazzo dei Consoli,
overlooking the dramatic 14th-century suspended medieval square of Piazza Grande
depicts the Madonna and Child with Saint John the Baptist and Saint Ubaldus
in the Lapidarium Collection of Archaeology of the Sala d’ Arengo
found at Gubbio, ancient Iguvium, in Umbria and date back 2,000-2,300 years
Written in both Umbrian and Latin, the tablets shed light on the grammar of this ancient dead language, and also on the religious practices of the ancient peoples of Italy
One of the Eugubian tablets written in an Umbrian language that predates Latin
The tablets are mounted in specialized hinged or double-sided wooden frames that can be swiveled, allowing visitors to see the ancient inscriptions on both sides
The tablets are written in both the Umbrian and Latin languages
hospitals that were once associated with convents and monasteries
referencing an historical pharmaceutical preparation of Juniperus sabina, known as Savin juniper
17th century Italian Maiolica from Alberobello with 'No. D. Pionb' which stands for
Unguentum de Plumbo, or related lead-based ointment from the Latin plumbum meaning lead
on the top flor of the Palazzo dei Consoli
and featured a fully integrated sanitation system built between 1332 and 1349
which features a long oak table that was used for formal municipal dinners
The Pentecost by Benedetto Nucci 1515
for storing municipal documents and textiles
The palace was the first in the city served by a public hydraulic system,
which fed this fountain which can still be found in the main salon of the Palazzo
Contented Pigeon perched on the ledge of the outdoor Loggia
View over Gubbio's Farmer's Market and parking area on Piazza 40 Martiri
where in fact we had parked our car
which is is a medieval palace located across from the Palazzo dei Consoli
the 12th-century bishop and patron saint of Gubbio
Taverna del Lupo's elegant barrel-vaulted Medieval dining room
The menu features sophisticated Umbrian cuisine based on traditional Gubbian dishes and recipes
Frittata Gentile con Tartufo di Stagione
Prosciutto di Norcia tagliato al coltello con “brustengo di Gubbio”
Lonzino marinato al profumo dell'orto, con pere e pecorino di Norcia
Funghi porcini trifolati al prezzemolo
Patate arrosto al rosmarino
the one and only Stanley Tucci
Prosciutto di Norcia Tagliato al coltello con “brustengo di Gubbio”
(Umbrian Fried Flat Bread (Brustengo) with Prosciutto
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy of chef Claudio Ramacci, La Taverna del Lupo
A classic Umbrian peasant-style fried flatbread served hot and draped with thin slices of prosciutto.
2 1/2 cups flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup boiling water
2 tsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
Paper-thin slices of prosciutto
Process the flour, salt, boiling water, and oil in a food processor until smooth and elastic, about 40 seconds. Divide into 10 equal small balls, rolling each into a 6-inch circle, and keep separated with parchment paper. Fry each circle in a heavy skillet with a little olive oil over medium-high heat for about 1 1/2 minutes per side until lightly browned. To serve, cut into wedges or leave whole while warm, and top each with a half-slice of prosciutto.
