Langdon Hall: Summer Lunch in Wilks' Conservatory

 

Originally built as a Federal Revival mansion by the famous New York Astor family at the turn of the 20th-century, the property still exudes the air of an old Ontario estate, but few people are aware of the international connections in Langdon Hall’s hundred-year history. Built by the son of an English man who inherited American wealth, the grand home was intended as a summertime contrast to life in New York, London and a château in the Loire valley. From the outset, when the mansion was finally sold in 1982 with about thirty surrounding acres, the transformation of Langdon Hall from a private residence into a luxury country house hotel embraced the British tradition. To compliment the English ambience that is alive inside Langdon Hall, much has been done to renovate the grounds and gardens to their original Victorian magnificence, as envisaged by its owners architect William Bennett and Mary Beaton. 

Considered to be one of the top hotels in Canada, I've been escaping to Langdon Hall for over 20 years and have spent many memorable weekends there with both friends and family, blissfully enjoying their spectacular spa, playing croquet on the verdant lawns, relaxing in the gorgeous outdoor pool, exploring the impressive chef's kitchen garden, and of course indulging in Langdon Hall's exceptional cuisine by the superbly talented Jason Bangerter — one of my favourite chefs in Canada — who also has a new cookbook featuring recipes he created for Langdon Hall. In addition to Langdon Hall's main dining room, one can also dine at Wilks' Bar, which was recently integrated with the adjacent conservatory, where afternoon tea was previously served. Offering lighter lunches and dinners in the new space, designed by Sarah Richardson, Wilks' Bar still fortunately retains the unique wood burning fireplace and period photos of Langdon Hall’s original founding family. Still elegant and refined, taking time for lunch at Wilks' is one of life's more delicious pleasures.

Arriving for a lovely summer lunch we were seated by the widow 

with a picturesque view of the winding drive up to the house

The Conservatory has been converted to Wilks' Bar dining room, 

where once afternoon tea was previously served

Fresh Black-Eyed Susans from the Langdon Hall garden on the table

A glass of Pol Roger Brut Reserve

Heritage Hens Eggs with deviled Dijonnaise, and Langdon Hall garden garnish

A culinary work of art and wonderfully tasty too

Grilled Rainbow Trout served with crispy new potatoes and roasted leeks, 

with a brown butter hazelnut vinaigrette

Roasted Chicken with northern white bean purée, glazed carrots, 

served with a lemongrass vinaigrette

The new Billiards Room has moved into what was previously a special events dining room

Abour entrance to the Langdon Hall vegetable and herb gardens

The Langdon Hall kitchen gardens grows flowers, herbs and vegetables

The Hot House and Greenhouse 

Flowers in bloom

Lush kale and delphiniums 

The gavel path leading towards the Croquet Lawn

The beautiful Pool where we have spent many lesiurely days

over the years

Lush hydrangea bushes line the croquet lawn 

The Langdon Hall Cookbook

langdonhall.ca

Golden Vegetable Soup

Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of Chef Jason Bangerter, Langdon Hall

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup roughly sliced shallots

1 tbsp roughly sliced garlic

1/2 tsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 cup roughly chopped orange bell pepper

1 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp freshly ground white pepper

1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, lightly packed

1/2 cup dry white wine

4 cups roughly chopped orange tomatoes

2 cups roughly chopped and peeled English cucumber

Green jalapeño Tabasco sauce

Garnishes:

6 boiled and peeled potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces

3 boiled and peeled golden beets, cut into bite-size pieces

6 blanched pattypan squash, cut into bite-size pieces

12 blanched and peeled cherry tomatoes

Basil flowers or leaves

extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle

sea salt, to taste

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger and bell pepper and gently cook without browning, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper. 

Tie the basil and parsley into a sachet using cheesecloth and butcher’s twine. Add the white wine and herb sachet to the saucepan and reduce the wine by two-thirds. Stir in the tomatoes and cucumber and cook for another 5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Remove the herb sachet and squeeze as much liquid as possible back into the saucepan. Discard the herb sachet. Strain the liquid into another container, reserving it for adjusting the consistency of the soup. In a high-speed blender, purée the vegetables, adding enough of the liquid in a slow, steady stream while blending to achieve a smooth, velvety consistency. When processed, adjust the seasoning with a splash of jalapeño Tabasco sauce and more salt, if required. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl and chill over ice. The soup can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

To serve, pour the soup into chilled soup bowls, or heated bowls if serving hot. Gently place the prepared potatoes, beets, squash, ground cherries and golden cherry tomatoes into the soup. Finish with basil flowers or leaves, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt, and serve.

La Station de Compton: Organic Farmstead Cheeses

 

Nestled in the heart of the Appalachian landscape in Compton, Quebec, Fromagerie La Station is a living testament to the harmony between land and craft. Since 1928, the Bolduc family has nurtured this soil, turning their deep-rooted connection to the Eastern Townships into an artisanal journey. Surrounded by the majestic views of Mount Orford, the farm transforms organic milk into exceptional cheeses, crafting flavours that reflect the very soul of their pastures, free of pesticides and GMOs.

The story began in 1928 when the family’s ancestor, Alfred Bolduc, settled at Chemin Hatley to practice agriculture. It wasn’t until two generations later that Carole Routhier took over the family farm and introduced a fromagerie.

Driven by her passion for cheese, she developed a wide variety of raw milk and farmstead cheeses, all produced using organic farming methods. Four generations of dedication have allowed them to master the art of cheesemaking, balancing ancestral wisdom with modern organic practices. The herd of 150 milking cows grazes freely on nutrient-rich grasses, and every drop of milk is processed with a passion that defines La Station's identity. 

"Everything we feed our cows is grown on our own land. We produce our own hay, corn, barley, wheat, and even soybeans, allowing us to oversee every step with care. This autonomy is an important part of our farming philosophy and contributes directly to the quality of our milk." Whether tasting their signature aged wheels or fresh seasonal offerings, cheese connoisseurs are experiencing the result of a profound collaboration between the sun, the wind, the soil, and a family that truly loves the land.

Beyond the family's creamery, the Bloduc legacy extends into the ancient forests of our 1,000-acre estate, where they harvest certified organic maple syrup from trees up to 250 years old. From the fields to the cheese dairy, and from the maple grove to your table, the Bolduc's invite you to taste the tradition that has shaped our family for nearly a century. "We do not just operate a farm — we devote ourselves to it, ensuring that every bite is a reflection of our commitment to sustainability and superior quality". Simon Pierre Bolduc, lead cheesemaker, is often on hand to show off his pristine operation, but even if he isn’t, the fromagerie features large windows into the make room and aging caves that were designed with self-guided tours in mind, which we joined and visited their on-site shop to purchase a selection of their cheese.

La Station de Compton Fromagérie produces some of the most highly regarded 

farmstead cheeses in Quebec

We arrived just in time to join the cheese tour with Mario

Simon-Pierre Bolduc is lead cheesemaker

Carole Routhier is the founder of the La Station cheese dairy in Compton

Pierre Bolduc, Simon-Pierre Bolduc, Carole Routhier, Martin Bolduc and Vincent Bolduc 

The main actors in the cheese making business

By drying hay gently and efficiently, this system helps preserve more of its nutrients 

and allows the farm to offer high-quality feed to their herd of cows

Thermostats and central control panels regulate the air temperature and airflow 

to prevent the from overheating and ensure uniform curing

The Milking station

The cheese "cave"

Mario presents a selection of La Station's cheeses for tasting

Alfred Gand Cru and Raclette presented for a cheese tasting,

at the conclusion of our tour

We bought a selection of cheese to bring back to the Chalet we were renting 

in the Eastern Townships

Selection of award winning La Station cheeses

Everyone at La Station was wonderfully friendly and enormously helpful

Cows in the pasture on a lovely sunny summer afternoon

"Moo"

fromagerielastation.com

Lobster Vol-au-Vent & Chemin Hatley
Recipe courtesy of La Station Fromagérie

Serves 4

4 vol-au-vent shells

2 cups cooked lobster meat

150 g grated Chemin Hatley cheese

1 French shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 tbsp butter

1 tbsp flour

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup 35% cream

1/2 cup lobster bisque

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Fresh tarragon, for garnish

In a skillet, melt the butter. Add the shallot and garlic, then sweat over low heat for a few minutes. Add the flour and cook for 30 seconds, stirring. Deglaze with the white wine and let reduce until almost dry. Add the cream, lobster bisque and Dijon mustard. Continue cooking for a few minutes, until small bubbles appear, stirring constantly. Turn off the heat, add the Chemin Hatley cheese and mix well until smooth. Gently fold in the lobster meat, being careful not to overmix. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Place a generous portion of lobster sauce over each vol-au-vent and garnish with fresh tarragon and bon appetit!

Parsnip Soup with Compton’s Raclette grilled cheese croutons

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of La Station de Compton

1 tbsp butter

1 leek, thinly sliced

3 cups peeled and sliced parsnips

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup whole milk

Salt and ground pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

4 slices multigrain bread

5 oz sliced Compton’s Raclette

Your choice of baby greens, such as snow peas, beets, radishes, etc.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the leek and parsnips for 5 minutes. Add the broth and milk, then salt and pepper. Simmer covered for 15 to 20 minutes or until the parsnips are tender, then purée the soup in a blender until smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan, adding parsley, and adjust seasoning to taste. 

Heat a skillet over medium. Butter one side of the bread slices and place two into the hot skillet, buttered side down. Divide the cheese evenly between the slices of bread and top with remaining slices, buttered side up. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn over and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until both sides are golden brown and the cheese is melted. Place the grilled cheese sandwiches on a cutting board and cut into 1/2" x 1/2" cubes. Serve the soup garnished with grilled cheese cubes and greens.

Gougères au Alfred le Fermier Grand Cru

Recipe courtesy of La Station de Compton

Serves 12

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup milk

3 1/2 unsalted butter, cubed

1 tsp salt

A pinch of pepper

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

3 1/2 oz grated Alfred Grand Cru cheese + 1 tbsp for the topping

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large saucepan, combine the water, milk, cubed butter, salt, and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil. As soon as the butter has melted and the liquid is boiling, immediately remove the pan from the heat. Add all the sifted flour at once. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Return the pan to medium-low heat. Cook the mixture for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, to dry it out. Remove the dough from the heat and transfer it to a large bowl. Incorporate the eggs one by one, mixing well after each addition; the dough must fully absorb the first egg before the next is added. 

Note: The dough should be smooth and glossy (it should stretch and break off rather than running too quickly). **You may not need the entire fourth egg; add it gradually.** 

Add 3 1/2 ounces of the grated cheese and mix just enough to incorporate it evenly into the dough. Using a piping bag, pipe small mounds of dough, about the size of a 'toonie', onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Leave space between each gougère, as they will puff up. Using a little water, smooth the top of each gougère to even them out. Sprinkle each gougère with a little extra grated cheese. Place the gougères in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Crucially, do not open the oven door during the first 15 minutes, or the gougères will deflate. The gougères are ready when they are well-puffed, golden brown, and the cheese on top is crispy. Turn off the oven and leave the door slightly ajar to let the gougères dry inside for another 5 minutes so they don't deflate when removed. Once cooled, the gougères can be eaten as is or filled with duck confit or foie gras mousse. Bon appétit!

Rösti au Comtomme

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of La Station de Compton

4 potatoes, peeled and rinsed

3 1/2 oz grated Comtomme cheese

3 tbsp chopped chives

A pinch of salt and pepper

3 tbsp salted butter

Grate the potatoes using a cheese grater. Place them in the centre of a clean kitchen towel and gather the edges to form a bundle. Twist and squeeze the bundle tightly to extract as much liquid as possible from the potatoes. Return the potatoes to a bowl and add the cheese, salt, and pepper. Mix well. 

In a small frying pan over medium heat, melt about a quarter of the butter. Add half of the potato mixture and press down firmly in the center and around the edges to form a neat patty. Cook for about 10 minutes over medium-low heat. Flip the patty over, adding one-third of the remaining butter, and continue cooking for another 10 minutes. Ensure the rösti is nicely browned on both sides. 

Repeat the process for the remaining potato mixture. Transfer to a plate and top with smoked salmon, a poached egg, and hollandaise sauce. Bon appétit!

Fromagerie les Broussailles: Artisanal Goat Cheese

 

Fromagerie les Broussailles is a small cheesemaker in the small hamlet of Martinville, in the Eastern Townships of Québec. It is certified organic and has been dedicated to raw milk cheese making since 2015. A dream come-true after a short stay in France that triggered the spark, it was followed by a 10-year stay in Switzerland where Jean-François Clerson and Julie Labrecque learned about the biodynamic approach of cheese making that influences their work today. The farm makes raw milk cheeses from its own alpine goats and regional sheep, which the couple tend to every day. 

"We believe that raw milk reflects the true character of the terroir. Lactic cultures native to the area are able to express themselves, delighting the senses. Our cheeses boast complex, unique flavours that shift with the changing seasons. We process our herd’s milk, as well as milk from a regional organic producer’s sheep herd into certified organic raw milk cheeses. Our traditional know-how produces rustic cheeses that evolve with the seasons, and where everything reflects harmony with nature. Taking care of our animals is particularly important to us. You will be charmed when meeting them at the farm." We saw this first hand while visiting Jean-François, Julie and their enigmatic herd of friendly goats, and also purchasing a selection of their cheeses including the Broussaillon Chèvres and Tomme des Broussailles.

Fromagerie les Broussailles is a small cheesemaker in the small hamlet of Martinville

Nestled in a large barn, Fromagerie les Broussailles is owned and run by 

Jean-François Clerson et Julie Labrecque

The small cheese shop and fromagerie is tucked away in the tiny Barn Boutique 

Julie Labrecque showing her Fromagerie les Broussailles cheese

Tomme des Broussailles is a firm cheese made from organic raw goat's milk

"La cave est généreuse cette année"

Farmhouse soft-ripened chèvre goat cheese 'Le Broussailon' 

made from organic raw goat's milk

Jean-François Clerson making the chèvre

One of the herd of goats

"Well-dried hay, full of fine natural grasses, is the foundation of a healthy diet for our goats"

"Easier to digest, rich in essential nutrients, and naturally gentle on sensitive stomachs,

our cheese is made from pure goat's milk, which is packed with nutrients"

Jean-François Clerson et Julie Labrecque pose with their herd of goats in the fields of Martinville

Tomme des Broussailles are made from the raw milk of our goats and certified organic

Jean-François and the herd of alpine goats and regional sheep

Jean-François taking the herd for a walk

www.fermelesbroussailles.com

Autumn Tartines with Tomme from Ferme des Broussailles

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of Max Dubois

2 ripe Anjou pears, one diced & one sliced

20 ground cherries

1 sprig of rosemary

A few slices of coppa

5 oz Tomme des Broussailles cheese

1 tbsp maple sugar

2 slices of rustic country bread

Microgreens

In a small saucepan, cook the ground cherries, diced pear, rosemary, and maple sugar in butter. Let the mixture stew for a few minutes until soft. Remove from heat. Toast the bread slices. On each slice, layer coppa, pear slices, and cheese. Repeat the layering. Toast again to melt the cheese. Finish by topping with a little of the pear and ground cherry compote, a sprinkling of maple sugar, and microgreens.