Considered to be one of the finest antique fairs in Tuscany, the Antique Market in Arezzo was the first market of its kind to be established in Italy in 1968. On the first Sunday of every month, the market takes advantage of the extraordinary scenery of Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Grande and the Logge del Vasari, with stalls also spreading over the side alleys and squares across the historic centre, transforming the character of the city for the two days of the fair. The Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo has grown over the years in size and reputation with around 500 vendors from across the country selling their treasures at the market, with an array of beautiful old furniture, paintings, silverware, antique books, assorted china, crystal and jewellery. A haven for antique collectors, the warren of shops that usually line the winding streets of Arezzo, and are worth spending an entire day to explore, however the sunny morning we arrived, the market was set up in the gorgeous Passeggio del Prato, a leafy park just steps from Piazza Grande. Arriving early for a cappuccino at Gli Svizzeri Pastisseria, we spent the morning exploring the Market looking for hidden gems.
The city's greatest artistic treasure however, is Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle The Legend of the True Cross, located in the Basilica of San Francesco. Started in 1452, this early Renaissance masterpiece tells the story of the 'True Cross', considered to be Piero della Francesca’s greatest masterpiece and narrates a medieval story about the cross on which Jesus was crucified. The story tells the legend of the cross used to crucify Christ, from sprig to Tree of Knowledge, to its use a bridge during the reign of Solomon, and ultimately its discovery by Helena, mother of Constantine, the first Christian emperor.
To our great surprise, the annual Giostra del Saracino, an ancient tournament of chivalry dating back to the Middle Ages, was taking place the same day. The event opens with a colourful procession of over 350 participants dressed in ornate 14th-century costumes, and where four neighbourhoods or 'Quartieri', each defined by unique heraldic colours and symbols, compete twice a year in the sloping Piazza Grande for the golden trophy known as the Lancia d'Oro.
We always make a reservation at Ristorante La Pieve which specializes in classic Tuscan cuisine with the scents and flavours of chef Donatella's homemade pasta and decadent dolce. Located in a 14th-century building on the Corso Italia, the beautiful country style interior with fresco-style wall details, La Pieve also boasts an outstanding menu featuring truffles, seasonal porcini mushrooms, local produce, fish and game. Having made a reservation weeks before to secure a table for Sunday lunch, we began with some lovely chilled prosecco, and followed with Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio with shaved fennel and pink peppercorns. For our entrées, we chose the "Scottadito" lamb chops with roast potatoes as well as an outstanding Tagliata di Manzo ai funghi porcini, cooked with the fresh new porcini mushrooms of the season. We even indulged in some dolci including a superb creme caramel, before winding our way home to our villa Campello sul Clitunno in the Umbrian hills, with a few antiques tucked under our arms and a contented smile on our face — la dolce vita.
The famed Arezzo Antiques Fair held the first Sunday of every month
Antique Books with beautiful etchings
Cherubs, putti and angels
The silver tables always catch my eye — I could easily buy everything
The 13th-century steeple of the Duomo di Arrezzo soars over the park
where the Antique Fair takes place with the bells ringing at midday
A father and son wearing the scarf or 'foulard' the declares their allegiance
to their quartiere for the Giostra del Saracino
Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo stall selling vintage commercial signs and lighting
The 150th anniversary of the Giostra del Saracino in Arezzo
was being held the Sunday we were in Arezzo
Seating in Piazza Grande, the sloping main medieval square of Arezzo,
is the site of the Giostra del Saracino which will take place later this afternoon
we happened across a few of the jousters getting ready and having a quick drink
The ochre coloured interior of La Pieve
often called the "White Queen in a land of Red Kings"
Lovey Giancarlo takes car of all the guests at La Pieve and remembered me
as I had made a reservation for lunch a month before using my 'best Italian'
L'Anatra in porchetta arrosto
Strangozzi, a Tuscan pasta with the colourful nickname 'priest strangler'
in the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo
tell the story of the wood on which Jesus Christ was crucified
to announce that she would conceive and bear Jesus
The Queen of Sheba venerates the wood from which the Cross will be made
On the eve of his battle with Maxentius to decide who was to be the undisputed Emperor of Rome, Constantine lies asleep in his tent
Finding and Recognition of the True Cross where 3 crosses are unearthed
The ceiling of the Bacci Chapel is decorated with frescoes of the Four Evangelists,
painted by the Florentine artist Bicci di Lorenzo starting in 1447
after a wonderful day in Arezzo
