Bali, Indonesia: An Evening at The Royal Palace

 

Land of a thousand temples and the world's last paradise, Bali is known as island of the Gods. With verdant mountains and terraced rice fields in one direction, and black sand beaches in another, Bali is the island paradise of Indonesia. Renowned for its highly developed arts, including traditional and modern dance, sculpture, painting, leather, metalworking, and music, Balinese arts and handicrafts skills have passed down through generations. 

Exploring the rich cultural heritage, flavours and daily life of the Balinese people, we were excited about our very special 'Evening at the Royal Palace of Puri Taman Sari.' Departing from the pier where Silver Nova docked in Bali for a scenic 2 hour drive to Blayu, a small Balinese traditional village in the Tabanan district, we arrived at the magnificent Royal Palace. Built in the 17th-century, this spectacular landmark of historical architecture served as the Royal Palace of the Mengwi Dynasty. Designed in the style of ancient Balinese royal compound house, Puri Taman Sari consists of an array of pavilions. Nestled in the heart of Tabanan, the wonderful Royal Palace complex includes a fantastic tropical landscaped garden, exquisite wooden shrines, beautifully caved gates, coconut palms, and surrounded by breathtaking rice fields with three rivers running through the property, the Royal Palace is one of the regions key attractions.

Arriving at the Royal Palace and serenaded by a Baleganjur musical group, we were greeted with a traditional Balinese welcome drink by Balinese women in exquisite traditional dress who performed a colourful dance, before we proceeded to the many attractions and activities housed at the Puri Taman Sari. Here we were able to observe daily Balinese activities, many of which are performed by women, including offering-making, traditional Balinese umbrella-making and wood-carving, before strolling over to the beautiful outdoor garden for a very special Indonesian dinner of Balinese delicacies.

Before and during dinner we were treated to Legong, a refined, classical Balinese dance form originating from 19th-century royal courts, characterized by intricate finger movements, complex footwork, and expressive, synchronized facial expressions. Usually performed by young girls adorned in gold, it tells stories of kings and myths, and accompanied by a Gamelan ensemble of young boys. Balinese gamelan troops featuring boy musicians are deeply rooted in the island’s culture, often organized within local village councils where children begin learning traditional music at a very young age. These ensembles, or sekaa gong, are crucial for community rituals, temple ceremonies, and festivals, fostering discipline and social harmony. The evening of Legong dance and Gamelan music was outstanding and an wholly unforgettable experience.

After dinner, we were treated to a fascinating performance of Kecak, a traditional dance that recounts the tale from the Ramayana, an epic story that found its way from India to Indonesia. During the dance, the only musical accompaniment is the chanting of men positioned in a concentric circle on the stage. As the men chant and rhythmically sway to the music, colourfully costumed dancers weave and interwtwine their way amongst them. Lit only by glowing torches, the shadows cast by the dancers, combined with the haunting chanting, creating a mesmerizing  experience, especially as it was performed during a torrential tropical rain storm.

Arriving in the small village of Blayu where we were greeted with a traditional Balinese processional musical ensemble known for its loud, energetic, and rhythmic sound known as Baleganjur

The Baleganjur ensemble play intense, rhythmic music, typically featuring interlocking cymbals, 

drums, and gongs to accompany the procession with Lembu the Bull

Ladies greeting us at the Royal Palace of Puri Taman Sari with fresh yellow orchids for our hair

Balinese lady offering us fresh coconuts that symbolize harmony with nature and humanity

Fresh coconut, often referred to as kelapa muda, is a a refreshing, natural 

welcome drink and is a gesture of Balinese hospitality

Ceremonial headdress to be held during the classic Balinese dance of Legong

Local artisan weaving a parasol using natural materials

Lovely young local woman carving local Arbesia softwood with hammer and chisel 

Balinese lady making Jaja Sirat, a traditional Balinese snack made from rice flour and palm sugar, 

with a delicate, lace-like appearance, often compared to a bird's nest

Dipping her fingers in the batter and into hot oil, until the Jaja Sirat is golden brown and crispy

Sweet and very delicate, the freshly made Jaja Sirat is very "more-ish

A descendant of the Balinese Mengwi Dynasty, the Prince greeted us to 

the Royal Palace of Puri Taman Sari

A kind and gentle man, the Prince invited us to enjoy iconic Balinese Barong and the Legong, 

a classical court dance with detailed hand movements and expressive, fast-paced footwork

The start of the Balinese performance features Gamelan, a traditional ensemble of young boys playing

beautiful golden Rindik xylophones with bone hammers

Young boy in colourful Balinese sarong, playing his Rindik with bone hammer, which produces 

energetic rhythmic patterns, called kotekan, and accompanies Joged Bumbung dance

Balinese snack with Rempeyek rice crackers and spicy tomato sambal,

wrapped in a babana leaf and served in handwoven basket

Balinese snack with Rempeyek rice crackers and spicy tomato sambal,

wrapped in a babana leaf and served in handwoven basket with fresh orchid

Beautiful handmade Floral and palm leaf centrepiece

Handmade palm and rose placemats were simply lovely

'An Evening at The Royal Palace Indonesian Dinner at Puri Taman Sari' menu

One of the most prestigious and technically refined styles of classical Balinese dance, 

Legong is a "dance of the maidens" performed by young girls who embody elegance, intricate finger movements, and intense, synchronized eye movements

The spectacle on stage with Gamelan and Joged Bumbung dancers

with four Balinese women holding elaborate headdresses, or gelungan

Balinese lady preparing peanut sauce made from shallots, garlic, red chiles, palm sugar, 

and tamarind paste, peanut sauce is a delicious staple in Indonesia

The lady chef kindly showed me how she made the peanut sauce

Balinese Salad with Peanut Sauce, or Tipat Cantok, is an authentic Balinese dish made from mixed vegetables and tofu tossed in freshly ground peanut sauce and served with crisp savoury crackers

Tipat Cantok with handmade Peanut Sauce and crisp savoury Kerupuk Putih crackers

 

Balinese dances are a profound blend of mythic, religious, and storytelling elements, 

serving as a living, breathing component of Balinese Hindu culture, 

and recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

With colourful sarong, handsome Udeng head covering and exquisitely hand carved Rindik, 

being played with bone hammer, the boys played all evening

Verdant rice fields with palm trees and small wooden shed

was tranquil calm beside the Royal Palace

Multiple frogs, often depicted in groups of three, signify a surge of good fortune and, 

specifically, the promise of rain, which is vital for agriculture

Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu deity, symbolizes the remover of obstacles, 

wisdom, prosperity, and auspicious beginnings

Closeup photograph of the boys, with rice fields in the background

Older ladies from the village serving the first course of the Indonesian dinner

Handwoven cover for the first course

Fried sweet potato fritters known as Perkedel served with Beef Soto, 

a fragrant, coconut-milk-based beef soup

Legong is one of Bali’s most iconic and sacred traditional dances, known for its intricate 

eye movements, graceful hand gestures, and deep cultural meaning

Originally performed by young girls in royal courts, the dance often symbolizes an offering to the gods 

during temple ceremonies — a living expression of Balinese identity and heritage  

Cone-shaped steamed rice with carrots and crispy duck

The dancers performed throughout the evening, wearing different costumes 

and for truly memorable experience

Platter of eight small courses

Grilled Fish served in banana leaf and fastened with toothpicks

Stir-fried Water Spinach

Grilled Prawns

Pork Satay, Balinese Fish Satay, and Chicken Satay with peanut sauce

Spicy Sour Chicken Stew - Gerang Asem

The beautiful outdoor garden dining is suddenly empty as thunder boomed overhead, 

lightning flashed and the rain started to come down in great sheets

Looking down from the covered main pavilion through a flower arbour 

to our rain soaked tables

The Gamelan ensemble of young boys grabbed their precious Rindik, 

and found refuge under the thatched lanai, then continued to perform!

Having sought a dry table in the covered dining room, 

the loyal and hardworking servers arrived with an array of traditional Balinese sweets

Delicious Jaja Laklak, a Balinese soft and spongy pancake dessert, green-hued 

from pandan leaf juice and served with sweet palm sugar

Handwoven 'cloche' over a dessert tray of Balinese sweets

Tray of Balinese sweets including Balinese Apem Cake, a steamed pink sponge cake, 

Kue Lapis layered rice cake wrapped in banana leaf, pineapple and papaya

Not to be thwarted by torrential rain, the dance performance of Kecak that recounts the tale from the Ramayana, was performed on a covered stage - but getting there was a challenge

 Balinese dancers, with palms pressed together, shows respect, gratitude, and to thank the audience;

but beyond thanking the audience, these gestures are rooted in Balinese Hindu traditions, where dance is considered an offering to the gods, and the dancers act as vessels channeling divine energy 

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