Ragusa is one of the most charming towns in Sicily. Set amid rocky peaks, it's a town with two souls. Sitting on the top of the hill is Ragusa Superiore, a busy town with all the trappings of a modern provincial capital, while etched into the hillside further down is the old town of Ragusa Ibla, a sloping area of tangled alleyways, grey stone houses and baroque churches on handsome squares. The historic centre of Ragusa, Ibla is one of the best preserved in Sicily and is absolutely magnificent. One of south east Sicily's UNESCO-listed Baroque towns, Ragusa was destroyed like the other seven towns of the Val di Noto, by the terrible earthquake in 1693, which were then rebuilt on or beside towns existing at the time of the earthquake.
Together, they represent a considerable collective undertaking, successfully carried out at a high level of architectural and artistic achievement. Keeping within the late Baroque style of the day, they also depict distinctive innovations in town planning and urban building. The Duomo di San Giorgio is the heart of Ibla. With an imposing exterior staircase, it's a architectural jewel. An intrigate maze of stepped streets, exceptionally fine Baroque churches and wonderful cuisine, we bee-lined for Monsù, a delightful French restaurant run by husband and wife team, Heloise and Salvatore. Monsù is the contracted from the French 'monsieur', a title given to 18th-century French-trained Sicilian chefs during the French occupation of Sicily. A culinary crossroads of different cultures, the menu at Monsù blends Sicilian and French cuisine, just like Heloise and Salvatore — she's French and he's from Sicily. Conquered by Salvo's cuisine, and pampered by Heloise's gracious hospitality, lunch at Monsù was a highlight of our day in Ilba.
Giardino Ibleo is a serene public garden built in the 19th century at the eastern end of town
With majestic views over the valley below, the quiet park is a popular spot
Flowers in bloom in the park
Reclining figure of Poseidon beside Chiesa di Sant'Agata
Sicilian Pyracantha with yellow berries
Chiesa di San Giacomo Apostolo
The false dome in trompe-l'oeil style
The bell tower with high-relief of San Giacomo represented as Matamoros with his sword drawn, and depicted on an horse while trampling a dragon
The long avenue is flanked by tall palms and opens up to a wonderful well-tended park, with carved stone benches, columns and an elegant panoramic balcony
Local painters set up their easels in the park on a quiet Sunday afternoon
Brush in hand in the tranquil gardens
Local Café on Corso Italia
Fresh squeezed pomegranate juice is enormously popular in Sicily and in fact contains more antioxidants than any other fruit juice
The Baroque-style Chiesa di San Giuseppe dates back to the 1700s and was constructed atop an earlier church, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1693
The oval-shaped elaborately stuccoed interior dates from 1793
Corsa Italia is the main street through Ragusa Ilba
We stopped for a cold Birra Messina in Piazza Duomo
Salted peanuts and a cold beer — lovely
A little girl exploring the piazza with her anxious father just a half step behind
Duomo di San Giorgio is one of the greatest expressions of baroque–style sacred architecture
The extravagant convex facade rises like a three-tiered wedding cake, supported by gradually narrowing Corinthian columns and punctuated by jutting cornices
Interior of the Duomo
Madonna with lit halo
Beautiful stained glass windows
Baroque gargoyle of Palazzo Cosentini
View of the dome of San Giorgio climbing up higher into Ibla
Ragusa Ibla is a sloping area of tangled alleyways and grey stone houses
Looking over to Ragusa Superiore from Ibla
Looking at the Dome from above after climbing a mountain of steps
Strolling back along Corsa Italia
Monsù is a delightful French restaurant on Corsa Italia
Part tea room and part restaurant
The French inspired Sicilian menu
An elaborate handmade olive oil dish
Fresh homemade bread
2010 Sicilian Enrica Spadafora Brut Metodo Classico
Homemade Ravioli Amuse-Bouche
2015 Tornatore "Pietrarizzo" Etna Bianco
A creamy and delicious Etna Bianco with mineral undertones, this sensational white was our favourite while in Sicily
Fragrant dried flowers
Tarte Tatin di cipolla in agrodolce, pasta brisè e crema di caprino
Gambero in due consistenze, tartare e tempura con Bloody Mary e pesto di sedano
Shrimp Tartare e pesto di sedano
A subtle touch of a fish knife and fork
Filetto di Salmone con patate schiacciata, burro satato d'Insigny e limone
Lasagnette al Pomodoro con ragout di salsiccia, melanzana e salsa besciamella
2015 Antichi Vinai Etna Petra Lava Etna Bianco
A well balanced and really lovely Etna Bianco
I colori Monsù: selezione colorata di geli e macarons
Cioccolato Caramello & Co: soufflé di cioccolato, caramello bretone e salsa cognac alle pere
Hot, sweet and so very delicious
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