Friday, November 22, 2019

Noto: A Baroque Pearl & Sicilian Culinary Gem





Noto is "an architectural supermodel, a baroque belle so gorgeous you might mistake it for a film set". One of southeastern Sicily’s UNESCO-listed baroque cities, Noto is now one of Sicily's most beautiful towns, famed for its opulent architecture and surfeit of beauty. Although a town called Noto or Netum has existed here for many centuries, it was completely destroyed by the terrible 1693 earthquake, and rebuilt from scratch on a new site, about 10km from the old centre. The most eminent architects of the day were engaged. No expense was spared. The streets were soon filled with an astonishing concentration of churches, private palaces and public buildings in a luscious style now referred to, rather loosely, as Sicilian Baroque, with churches, incredibly elaborate balconies and beautiful early 18th century buildings - all shining in golden sandstone. Every step of the way, honey-coloured stone buildings, elaborate facades and intricately carved balconies border Corso Vittorio Emanuele, an elegant street flanked by thrilling baroque palazzi and churches, including the reconstructed 18th-century Noto Cathedral, Palazzo Ducezio, now the town hall, triumphal 19th-century Porta Reale which marks the entrance to the city. 

Four lunch, look no further than Ristorante Manna Noto, in the Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata. Designer Gordon Guillaumier was responsible for the conversion of the former cellars of the historic Palazzo Nicolaci into Manna. The bar, dominated by a neon Saiga Soda sign, leads to four vaulted rooms dressed with furniture by Knoll, Vita and Artemide plus striking artworks. Menus take inspiration from all over Italy, with dishes such an amuse-bouche of Lenticchie Nere, Sicilian black beans - known as 'black pearls of the Mediterranean' - with puffed rice and ricotta salt, Venetian-style Baccala Croquettes with capers and corn pastry, and outstanding Amberjack and Scorpionfish, showcase the chef’s reverence for local ingredients, as well as a degree of Japanese restraint - the chef’s wife is Japanese. With a mix of mid-century decor and whimsical vintage neon signage, the restaurant is a sleek and stylish culinary gem. 




18th-century Sicilian baroque Cattedrale di San Nicolo in Noto is made of pale limestone

Bronze main portal by the Sicilian sculptor Giuseppe Pirrone

Cathedral Bellower with one of four late 18th-century statues depicting the evangelists

After a partial collapse of the Cathedral in 1996 after a thunderstorm. a new altar, lectern and crucifix were made of silvered bronze and Sicilian jasper by the Italian sculptor Giuseppe Ducrot

Frescos by the Russian painter Oleg Supereko

Ornate side chapel of the Cathedral

Votive candles in the chapel

St Teresa of Calcutta, one of eight new stained glass windows by Francesco Mori

The gorgeous facade of San Domenico

The Fountain of Hercules with was created in 1757 and possesses a shield of the city, symbolizing the strength of the community that rebuilt Noto after the devastating earthquake of 1693

The Basilica del Santissimo Salvatore along with its adjacent Monastery and Episcopal Seminary is the largest baroque-style building in Noto

The Church of San Carlo al Corso is also known as the College church because of the adjacent Jesuit monastery, was built during the 18th-century and fabulous example of Sicilian baroque

Looking over the terracotta rooftops of Noto to San Carlo

Looking over Noto towards the sparkling blue Mediterranean Sea 

Memorial to the fallen in the First World War in Noto

Sicilian flag waving in the wind from the rooftop of Palazzo Ducezio

Inspired by French palace architecture of the 17th century, graceful, porticoed Palazzo Ducezio is one of architect Vincenzo Sinatra's finest works

A triumphal arch for the visit of King Ferdinand II of Bourbon and now serves as the grand entrance to Noto

The elegant Baroque Teatro 'Tina Di Lorenzo' is the only theatre in Noto

A swirl of boxes and stuccowork, this petite 19th-century theatre is named in honour of Italian stage and silent-film actress Tina Di Lorenzo, one of numerous stars to have graced its stage

The lovely cobbled Corso Vittorio Emanuele III, the main shopping street in Noto

The quirky 3-wheeled Quattro Canti are often used as taxis

Famed Noto chocolates from Ciocc Offina

Giuspino is one of the loveliest shops in Noto specializing in handmade ceramics from Caltagirone

Cross Umberto was alive with young and old enjoying the day

Arriving for lunch, Ristorante Manna has outdoor tables as well as chic dining inside

Ristorante Manna Noto on Via Rocco Pirri, is one of the best restaurants in Noto

Our server standing in front of the luminous Saiga Soda sign mounted on monochrome majolica tiles, made by hand in Caltagirone

In 2014, what was once the ground-floor wine cellar of the Palazzo Nicolaci got a whimsical-chic makeover and became Ristorante Manna Noto

Hanging my hat on the wall becomes a quasi art installation with the modern pegs

Our table at Manna with its sleek modern interior design

Manna's menu of modern Sicilian creations

The stylized glass water bottle seems a perfect match with the modern decor

With sea blue tables and modern stemware, the dining room was beautiful

2017 Benanti Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere

Nestled in a bucket of ice, our Etna Bianco was very happy

Amuse-Bouche of Lenticchie Nere, Sicilian black beans - known as 'black pearls of the Mediterranean' - with puffed rice and ricotta salata

Absolutely gorgeous fresh baked bread

Il Baccala in crocchetta al battuto di capperi e mantecato con sfoglia di mais: Baccala croquette with capers and corn pastry
Polpettine di Alici, cozze sgusciate in guazzetto tiepido di pomodoro su purea di melanzane: Anchovy, mussels and warm tomato arancini with aubergine purée, crostini and grated ricotta

Ricciola scaloppata, leggermente scottata all'emulsione di limone verdello: Scalloped amberjack, lightly cooked with a verdello lemon emulsion

Pesce del Giorno: Scorpion Fish with capers, potato and zucchini

La Creme Caramel al profumo di vaniglia e limone

Lovely buttery shortbreads

The bill arrived tucked inside an old Antoine Galland novel,
a wonderful whimsical touch after a memorable lunch


























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