Scrumpdillyicious: The Medieval Hilltown of Todi & Ristorante Umbria

Like rings around a tree, Todi's history can be read in layers: the interior walls show Todi's Etruscan and even Umbrian influence, the middle walls are an enduring example of Roman know-how, and the 'new' medieval walls boast of Todi's economic stability and prominence during the Middle Ages. One of Umbria's most beautiful hill towns, Todi, is perched high up in the mountains with spectacular views in every direction. Reached by an exciting drive through winding roads and hairpin turns, this ancient city is an unexpected delight. Described as one of the 'most liveable towns in the world', Todi has retained much of the original features and charming character of the town's diverse historical periods in the face of passing time. With a rich history dating back to around 1300 BC, Todi was settled by the Umbri, an ancient pre-Etruscan people who gave it the name Tudere. According to legend, one night the new conquerors were eating their meal which was placed on a red cloth, when suddenly an eagle descended upon them, seized the cloth with its talons and flew away, dropping it high up in the hills. This was interpreted as a divine sign, and the new town was built exactly where the eagle had shown. Tudere later became absorbed by the Romans in the 1st century BC, expelling the Etruscans from their new land, and the town became known as Todi.

Roman rule is still evident in many of Todi's architectural features, as are many of the town's Mediaeval buildings that were developed during the 13th century, such as The Piazza del Popolo, one of Italy 's most beautiful medieval squares, as well as the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Todi's Duomo, the 12th century Cathedral of Santa Annunziata, which sits at one end of the square, was built on the ruins an ancient pagan temple, but was never been finished although additions were made over the centuries. The simple facade is approached by a broad sweep of stairs that lead up to magnificent wood carved doors. Looking back, the Duomo commands an impressive view over the sunny Piazza, which is where we enjoyed an early morning cappuccino and pastry at a lovely Gran Caffé Serrani — sweet compensation for making such an early start from Villa Boronia.

A symbol of culinary excellence and custodian of the traditions of the real tuderte cuisine, Michelin-starred Ristorante Umbria is simply the finest restaurant in Todi, and the oldest. After visiting the Duomo and San Fortunate, we wandered through the steeply winding streets that lead to small hidden entrance of Ristorante Umbria. With reservations made months earlier, we had a beautiful table waiting on the gorgeous outdoor terrace with spectacular views over the Tiber valley. Started by Sabatino Todini and his wife Ida over 60 years ago on a small farm located on the site of the restaurant where they used to sell wine in bulk, the property was slowly transformed into the beautiful gastronomic paradise we enjoy today. With a menu highlighting regional recipes and traditional Tuderte cuisine, we enjoyed a glorious lunch of local delicacies with a bottle of dark and delicious Sagrantino di Montefalco by Lungarotti, Umbria's best known winery. Keeping with the moment, we finished with Ciambelline and Vin Santo, a sweet amber dessert wine known as the "wine of hospitality".

Parking at the foot of Todi, we took advantage of the funicular

that took us up very close to the historic centre

Gran Caffé Serrani in Todi's main square, the Piazza del Popolo,

is where we always stop for a cappuccino and coronetto before exploring the town

Gran Caffé Serrani with the Duomo in the background

Hot frothy cappuccino

Cornetto alla crema

The 12th century Cathedral of Santa Annunziata sits at one end of the Piazza del Popolo,

and was built on the ruins an ancient pagan temple

The central portal in wood has a double door made by Antonio Bencivenni in 1521

The austere 13th-century interior is striking nonetheless

Beautiful chandelier in the Duomo representing the symbol of Todi - the eagle

Fresco by Ferraù Fenzoni in 1596 depicting the Last Judgment,

inspired by Michelangelo's treatment of the same subject in the Sistine Chapel

One of the stained glass windows of Cathedral of Santa Annunziata

Piazza del Popolo is the main square of Todi

Bronze eagle by Giovanni di Gilliaccio from 1347

The Franciscan Church of San Fortunato which holds the remains of Jacapone da Todi

The Gothic central portal of the church with richly decorated spiralling pilasters with leaf and animal details plus depictions of saints and apostles