Tucked away near the gentle slopes of Mount Subasio, this charming 12th century village has been nicknamed "The Jewel of Umbria" because of its rich history, uniquely preserved Roman and medieval architecture and its breathtaking views. Spello's narrow alleyways and winding cobblestone streets brim with colorful plants, lure visitors to explore its hidden courtyards, alleyways, stone architecture, and small shops that have been run by the same families for generations. Populated in ancient times by the Umbri, Spello became a Roman colony in the 1st century BC. 'Hispellum' was originally a Roman settlement, laying on the Via Flaminia close to the strategic junction for Perugia. The most impressive remnant of this stage of the town's history, apart from the walls themselves, is the Porta Venere, an Augustan-era gate flanked by two 12-sided towers standing in magnificent isolation on the west side of town. Most of the other sights are scattered along Via Cavour, beginning with Santa Maria Maggiore. This church has a finely sculpted medieval portal, but the real treat is inside: the Cappella Baglioni side-chapel is decorated by one of Pinturicchio's most joyous and colourful fresco cycles, painted in 1501 for the powerful Baglioni family and centred on the birth and childhood of Jesus. This native of Spello was nicknamed "the rich painter" because of the generous detail in his paintings.
Located in a beautiful 16th-century building set on Roman ruins and named after one of Spello's famous Roman arches, La Porta Venere, guests dining in Ristorante La Porta Venere are treated to delicious Umbrian cuisine with typical dishes and flavours of the region, such as highly prized Umbrian truffles, fresh asparagus, wild game, and locally grown vegetables with a fine wine list featuring great selection of regional wines. Known for its excellent regional Umbrian cuisine, the brick barrel vaulted interior with Roman-era walls create a warm and inviting atmosphere for dining in the cooler months, while the lovely outdoor terrace is a beautiful spot to enjoy a lovely lunch on a warm summer afternoon. The dishes are based on traditional Umbrian cuisine, such as the outstanding Flan di Zucchine con crema di parmigiana e tartufo nero, Strapazzata con tartufo nero estiva — the most decadent scrambled eggs with shaved truffle — and homemade pasta such as Pappardelle con ragù di cinghiale plus an enviable selection of charcoal grilled meats and homemade desserts.
Every Wednesday is Spello's market day, for which we always arrive to take advantage,
with lots of local farmers selling their fresh produce
Lovely lush flowering plant in the market
Tessitura Pardi is one of my favourite shops, specializing in fine Umbrian linens
My other favourite shop in Spello is Baiocco, a small antiques shop owned by a very old couple
who when we buy a special gift, they wrap it up exquisitely in an old-world fashion
The finely sculpted Medieval portico of Santa Maria Maggiore
The artistic gem is the Cappella Baglioni side-chapel which is decorated by one of Pinturicchio's most joyous and colourful fresco cycles, painted in 1501 for the powerful Baglioni family
Under the protective acrylic floor in the chapel are 16th-century majolica tiles from Deruta
The Dispute in the Temple by Pinturrichio
Fresco of The Annunciation by Pinturrichio
Detail of the Archangel Gabriel in the fresco of The Annunciation
The gorgeous barrel vaulted ceiling of the chapel
A Medieval cobblestone walkway in Spello's historic centre
Located in a beautiful 16th-century building set on Roman ruins, Ristorante La Porto Venere
is tucked away down a narrow cobbled lane in the heart of Spello
Our table overlooking the fertile plains of Umbria's Val d'Orcia
La Porto Venere menu of typical Umbrian dishes
La Gaita del Falco Montefalco Grechetto
Grechetto is an excellent Umbrian wine full of minerality
Flan di Zucchine con crema di parmigiana e tartufo nero
Strapazzata con tartufo nero estiva
Maialino in porchetta
Insalata di fagioli e cipolla rosa
Pappardelle al ragu di Chinghiale
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