Monday, September 23, 2019

Arezzo: Antique Market & Ristorante La Pieve





Considered to be one of the finest antique fairs in Tuscany, the Antique Market in Arezzo was the first market of its kind to be established in Italy in 1968. On the first Staurday and Sunday of every month, the market takes advantage of the extraordinary scenery of Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Grande and the Logge del Vasari, with stalls also spreading over the side alleys and squares across the historic centre, transforming the character of the city for the two days of the fair. The Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo has grown over the years in size and reputation with around 500 vendors from across the country selling their treasures at the market, with an array of beautiful old furniture, paintings, silverware, antique books, assorted china, crystal and jewellery. A haven for antique collectors, the warren of shops that usually line the winding streets of Arezzo, and are worth spending an entire day to explore, however the sunny morning we arrived, the market was set up in the gorgeous Passeggio del Prato, a leafy park just steps from Piazza Grande. 

Arriving early to immerse ourselves into the pageantry of the day, we stopped for a cappuccino at Gli Svizzeri Pastisseria to gird our loins and spent the morning exploring the Antique Market looking for hidden gems. The annual Giostra del Saracino, an ancient tournament of chivalry dating back to the Middle Ages, was taking place the same day. The event opens with a colourful procession of over 350 participants dressed in ornate 14th-century costumes. The highlight of the procession is the blessing of the armed on the steps of the Duomo by the Bishop of Arezzo. In the late afternoon, the knightly tournament takes place in Piazza Grande. With the sound of trumpets and drums, the procession represented by each quarter of Arezzo's four neighbourhoods, enter the square bearing the colours and ancient gonfalons of the city, and prepare to joust for the Lancia d'Oro, or golden fleece. 

Adjacent to Pieve di Santa Maria near Piazza Grande, Ristorante La Pieve specializes in classic Tuscan cuisine with the scents and flavours of chef Donatella's homemade pasta and decadent dolce. Located in an14th-century building on the Corso Italia, the beautiful country style interior with fresco-style wall details, also boasts an open kitchen with an outstanding menu featuring truffles, seasonal Porcini mushrooms, local produce, fish and game. Arriving for lunch after a morning exploring the Arezzo Antique Market and the spectacular Giostra del Saracino, La Pieve's reputation and sensational cuisine was an opportunity not to be missed. Having made a reservation months before to secure a table for Sunday lunch, we began with some lovely chilled prosecco, and followed with Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio with shaved fennel and pink peppercorns. For our entrĂ©es, we chose the "Scottadito" lamb chops with roast potatoes as well as an outstanding Tagliata di Manzo ai funghi porcini, cooked with the fresh new porcini mushrooms of the season. We even indulged in some dolci including a superb creme caramel, before winding our way home to our villa in the Umbrian hills, with a few antiques tucked under our arms and a contented smile on our face — la dolce vita.



Beautiful antique books with etchings

One of the stalls we looked at had a wonderful selection of antique Italian silverware

18th-century Italian silver cups and saucers that were so unusual and lovely that we bought them!

Carefully wrapped in bubble-wrap, our silver cups were placed in a bright red bag
and ready to be carried back home in due course

Two beautiful antique bedside tables in a very restful shade of blue

Great antique furniture is one of the highlights of the fair

As well as some eccentric items like this vintage accordion that was in great shape

Popular collectables with decidedly religious overtones

The silver tables always catch my eye - we even bought a small silver ladle for just 10 euros

Vintage books are very collectable

The 13th-century steeple of the Duomo di Arrezzo soars over the park 
where the Antique Fair takes place

Food trucks are a popular destination during the Arrezzo Antique Fair, especially for those looking for a quick delicious lunch such as vendors selling sliced porchetta on a crusty bread roll

Piadina, an traditional Umbrian flatbread, are cooked to order sandwiched around a variety of fillings like cheese and prosciutto

There are also a few food trucks that frequent the fair each month like this one
selling sweets, although this little boy has his eye on other things

Balloons are a great attraction for children coming to watch the Ghiostra del Saracino,
or Saracen Joust, which dates back to the Middle Ages

 The annual Giostra del Saracino, an ancient tournament of chivalry dating back to the Middle Ages, takes place the same day as the Antique Fair on the first Sunday in September

The event opens with a colourful procession of over 350 participants dressed in 
ornate 14th-century costumes

Four districts in Arrezzo, each with different colours, vie for top honours during the event

Crowd follow their teams through the town, cheering them on 

Each time we come to Arrezzo for the Antiques Fair, we have lunch at Ristorante La Pieve,
one of the best restaurants in the enchanting hill town

The charming interior of La Pieve

With woven placemats and crocheted runners, the ambiance is warm and inviting 

The wine list at La Pieve

Our handsome server opening our bottle of prosecco

With a big smile he serves our 'bubbly' 

What a fine way to begin a leisurely lunch

Nice warm bread, fresh from the oven 

With a special menu of the day features seasonal specialties,
La Pieve also has a delicious full menu of Umbrian dishes

Carpaccio di pesce spadaccine pesche gialle, finocchio e pepe rosa: 
Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio, fennel and pink peppercorns

A carafe of Sagrantino di Montefalco

Costoline di Agnello "Scottadito" con patate al forno:
"Scottadito" lamb chops with roast potatoes

Tagliata di Manzo ai funghi porcini

La Pieve Cheesecake with fresh peaches

Creme Caramel





















































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