The capital of Umbria, Perugia is a spectacular and enchanting hilltop town with a compact historic centre and rambling maze of charming medieval streets, exceptional museums and unique archeological treasures. Overlooking the verdant Tiber Valley, the city was originally founded by the Etruscans, but walking through the city one also feels the strong imprint of Roman, Medieval and Renaissance influences, testimony to the historical, artistic and cultural wealth of Perugia's unique rich and colourful past. At the centre of Perugia is Piazza IV Novembre, considered one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. Surrounded by the Palazzo dei Priori and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the heart of Piazza IV Novembre is actually Fontana Maggiore, a beautiful medieval fountain that was built in the 12th century, which brought water to the town from Mount Pacciano through an extensive aqueduct, an astounding feat of its time, and one of the best examples of Gothic art found anywhere in Italy.
On the other side of the square is the Palazzo dei Priori, which houses the National Gallery of Umbria, the most richest and most important art collections in Umbria, including masterpieces from the Middle Ages and Renaissance with works by Arnolfo di Cambio, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca, with considerable amount of space dedicated to the Umbrian artists Benedetto Bonfigli, Bartolomeo Caporali, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo and especially renowned paintings by local favourite Perugino, who famously taught Raphael. Beside the National Gallery is the stunning Collegio del Cambio which was Perugia's bankers guild built in 1452, adorned with frescoes by Perugino along the walls and crossbow vaulting.
Emerging from a a full morning feasting on the artistic and cultural treasures of the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria and Collegio di Cambio, it was time to nurture our other senses and made our way to Ristorante Regina on Corso Pietro Vannucci under a canopy of shady umbrellas. With an outstanding menu of fresh seafood, wonderful wine list and friendly service made Regina an absolutely lovely and relaxing oasis on a hot summer afternoon.
Sandri Pasticceria on Corso Vannucci is the perfect place to indulge
in a coroneto con crema and a hot cappuccino to jump start the morning
Built in 1860, the landmark pasticceria is the oldest in Umbria and is famous
for it's decadent pastries and excellent coffee
Fresh and flaky cornetto con crema
Cappuccino
Fontana Maggiore in front of Palazzo dei Priori
Fontana Maggiore with sculpted reliefs by Pisano, was designed in 1278 and is one of
the most important Romanesque monuments in Europe
Bronze head of a cow spouting water into the fountain
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Statue of Pope Julius III outside the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
Arriving on a Sunday, a service was underway in the Duomo
Votives are lit for those hoping to have their prayers answered
14th-centiry carved portal of Gallerie Nazionale dell'Umbria
13th-century tempera on wood cross from Chiesa di Santa Maria della Misericordia
by Maestro di San Fransesco
14th-century stained glass from Chiesa di Sant'Agostino in Perugia by Giovani di Bonino
14th-century painting by Ottaviano Nelli
Detail of 14th-century panel by Beato Angelico
15th-century Polittico di Sant'Antonio by Piero della Francesca
Detail of 15th-century painting by Luca di Paolo
15th-century Pala di Santa Maria dei Servi by Perugino
Detail of painting with inset self portrait of Perugino (L)
This gallery features a coffered wooden ceiling with an elaborately painted frieze depicting the story of mercenary Braccio Fortebaccio hired by Pope Paul III to repress the Perugians
15th-century Umbrian linen and cotton woven fabric from the Ugolini-Biscontini Collection
15th-century Madonna col Bambino by Perugino
15th-century fresco detail of Adorazione dei Pastori by Perugino
from Chiesa di Francesco al Monte o di Monteripido
15th-century Pala Opistografa di Monteripido by Perugino
Detail of 15th-century of San Giovanni Battista tea il santi Francesco, Girolamo, Sebastiano e Antonio di Padova by Perugino
15th-century detail of Sacra Famiglia by Pintoricchio
Enormous antique clock in the attic rooms of the gallery also acts a window to view Corso Vannucci
Ceiling frescoes in the attic rooms
16th-century etching of Daniel and the Lion by Claude Melllon
Ceccarini Panetteria e Pasticceria is a wonderful family-run shop in Perugia
Torciglione Dolce is an Umbrian sweet in the shape of a winding snake
Pesci di Lago are sweet marzipan filled sweets in the shape of little fish, and absolutely delicious
The sumptuous 13th-century Audience Hall of the Collegio del Cambio was the historic seat of the exchange guild, with the famous fresco cycle by Perugino at the height of his career
Glorious frescoes by Perugino with a small inset self portrait of the artist on the left
Richly carved 'tribunal' or judges bench by Florentine woodcarver Domenico del Tasso
Chapel of Saint John the Baptist adjacent to the Cambio
Ristorante Regina on Corsa Vanucci
The menu at Regina is well known for it's fabulous fish and seafood
2018 Vetere Rosato from Paestum
A lovely light and crisp Rosé
Tartre di Gambero: Crayfish Tartare
Insalata calda in barca: Warm calamari 'salad' from the boat
Outstanding appetizers at Ristorante Regina
Spaghetti alle vongole con scarole liquida e olio EVO
Small Italian clam shells known as 'veraci' from the Spaghetti alle vongole
Tagliatelle con crudo di mare e bottarga
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