Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Perugia: Gallerie Nazionale & Ristorante Regina





The capital of Umbria, Perugia is a spectacular and enchanting hilltop town with a compact historic centre and rambling maze of charming medieval streets, exceptional museums and unique archeological treasures. Overlooking the verdant Tiber Valley, the city was originally founded by the Etruscans, but walking through the city one also feels the strong imprint of Roman, Medieval and Renaissance influences, testimony to the historical, artistic and cultural wealth of Perugia's unique rich and colourful past. At the centre of Perugia is Piazza IV Novembre, considered one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. Surrounded by the Palazzo dei Priori and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the heart of Piazza IV Novembre is actually Fontana Maggiore, a beautiful medieval fountain that was built in the 12th century, which brought water to the town from Mount Pacciano through an extensive aqueduct, an astounding feat of its time, and one of the best examples of Gothic art found anywhere in Italy. 

On the other side of the square is the Palazzo dei Priori, which houses the National Gallery of Umbria, the most richest and most important art collections in Umbria, including masterpieces from the Middle Ages and Renaissance with works by Arnolfo di Cambio, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca, with considerable amount of space dedicated to the Umbrian artists Benedetto Bonfigli, Bartolomeo Caporali, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo and especially renowned paintings by local favourite Perugino, who famously taught Raphael. Beside the National Gallery is the stunning Collegio del Cambio which was Perugia's bankers guild built in 1452, adorned with frescoes by Perugino along the walls and crossbow vaulting. 

Emerging from a a full morning feasting on the artistic and cultural treasures of the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria and Collegio di Cambio, it was time to nurture our other senses and made our way to Ristorante Regina on Corso Pietro Vannucci under a canopy of shady umbrellas. With an outstanding menu of fresh seafood, wonderful wine list and friendly service made Regina an absolutely lovely and relaxing oasis on a hot summer afternoon.



Sandri Pasticceria on Corso Vannucci is the perfect place to indulge
in a coroneto con crema and a hot cappuccino to jump start the morning

Built in 1860, the landmark pasticceria is the oldest in Umbria and is famous 
for it's decadent pastries and excellent coffee

Fresh and flaky cornetto con crema

Cappuccino

Fontana Maggiore in front of Palazzo dei Priori

Fontana Maggiore with sculpted reliefs by Pisano, was designed in 1278 and is one of
the most important Romanesque monuments in Europe

Bronze head of a cow spouting water into the fountain

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo 

Statue of Pope Julius III outside the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo 

Arriving on a Sunday, a service was underway in the Duomo

Votives are lit for those hoping to have their prayers answered

14th-centiry carved portal of Gallerie Nazionale dell'Umbria

13th-century tempera on wood cross from Chiesa di Santa Maria della Misericordia
by Maestro di San Fransesco

14th-century stained glass from Chiesa di Sant'Agostino in Perugia by Giovani di Bonino

14th-century painting by Ottaviano Nelli

Detail of 14th-century panel by Beato Angelico

15th-century Polittico di Sant'Antonio by Piero della Francesca

Detail of 15th-century painting by Luca di Paolo

15th-century Pala di Santa Maria dei Servi by Perugino

Detail of painting with inset self portrait of Perugino (L)

This gallery features a coffered wooden ceiling with an elaborately painted frieze depicting the story of mercenary Braccio Fortebaccio hired by Pope Paul III to repress the Perugians

15th-century Umbrian linen and cotton woven fabric from the Ugolini-Biscontini Collection

15th-century Madonna col Bambino by Perugino

15th-century fresco detail of Adorazione dei Pastori by Perugino
from Chiesa di Francesco al Monte o di Monteripido

15th-century Pala Opistografa di Monteripido by Perugino

Detail of 15th-century of San Giovanni Battista tea il santi Francesco, Girolamo, Sebastiano e Antonio di Padova by Perugino

15th-century detail of Sacra Famiglia by Pintoricchio

Enormous antique clock in the attic rooms of the gallery also acts a window to view Corso Vannucci

Ceiling frescoes in the attic rooms

16th-century etching of Daniel and the Lion by Claude Melllon

Ceccarini Panetteria e Pasticceria is a wonderful family-run shop in Perugia

Torciglione Dolce is an Umbrian sweet in the shape of a winding snake

Pesci di Lago are sweet marzipan filled sweets in the shape of little fish, and absolutely delicious

The sumptuous 13th-century Audience Hall of the Collegio del Cambio was the historic seat of the exchange guild, with the famous fresco cycle by Perugino at the height of his career

Glorious frescoes by Perugino with a small inset self portrait of the artist on the left

Richly carved 'tribunal' or judges bench by Florentine woodcarver Domenico del Tasso

Chapel of Saint John the Baptist adjacent to the Cambio

Ristorante Regina on Corsa Vanucci

The menu at Regina is well known for it's fabulous fish and seafood

2018 Vetere Rosato from Paestum

A lovely light and crisp Rosé

Tartre di Gambero: Crayfish Tartare

Insalata calda in barca: Warm calamari 'salad' from the boat

Outstanding appetizers at Ristorante Regina

Spaghetti alle vongole con scarole liquida e olio EVO

Small Italian clam shells known as 'veraci' from the Spaghetti alle vongole

Tagliatelle con crudo di mare e bottarga



























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