In Siena the architecture soars and lifts your soul. This is Italy before the Renaissance, magically transported to the modern day. With its narrow streets and steep alleys, a Gothic Duomo, a bounty of early Renaissance art, and the glorious Palazzo Pubblico overlooking its magnificent Campo, Siena is often described as Italy's best-preserved medieval city. Originally a Roman colony founded by Augustus over 2,000 years ago called Saena Julia, Sienese myth suggests that Siena was founded by Senius and Aschius, two sons of Remus and thus nephews of Romulus, after whom Rome was named. Supposedly after their father's murder by Romulus, they fled Rome, taking with them the statue of the she-wolf suckling the infants, thus appropriating that symbol for the town.
Declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the historic centre of Siena is the embodiment of a medieval city with red-brick lanes cascading every which way. Sitting atop the city's highest point and visible for miles around, Siena's Cathedrale di Santa Maria, better known as the Duomo, is a gleaming marble treasury of Gothic art from the 13th and 14th centuries. Unquestionably one of Italy's most extraordinary Gothic churches, the cathedral is as impressive inside as it is out, and features the breathtaking work of Italy's finest artists of the day: Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello, Pinturicchio, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Michelangelo and Bernini. Parts of the facade were restored and reorganized in 1866 by Giuseppe Partini and again after World War II. All the statues on the facade, many of them designed by Giovanni Pisano, were replaced with replicas in the 1960s, with the originals now on display in the Museo dell'Opera. The interior of the spectacular Duomo is a rather dizzying sight, with its black-and-white striped pillars and ornate decoration on every surface.
There is much to see, including an enormous number of art masterpieces. The entire floor of Siena’s Cathedral is an incredible works of art: a spectacular inlaid marble mosaic floor featuring 59 etched and inlaid marble panels created from 1372 to 1547, described by Giorgio Vasari as “the most beautiful, largest and most magnificent floor that ever was made”. About halfway down the nave on the left is the entrance to the Libreria Piccolomini, famed for its beautifully preserved Renaissance frescoes, beautifully decorated by Pinturicchio and depicting the eventful life of Pope Pius II. A young Raphael may have been among the pupils who assisted. The walls are lined with display cases carved by Antonio Barili in 1495-96 and filled with an important collection of 30 richly illustrated Renaissance choir books from 1465 to 1515. To spend an hour or two in the Duomo is not enough — one could spend a lifetime.
Just steps from the famous Piazza del Campo, Ristorante da Guido is one of the best restaurants in Siena, serving classic Tuscan cuisine and typical Senese dishes. In the cellar, there are over 500 wines, especially Tuscan wines of Siena such as Chianti Classico, Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Nobile di Montepulciano and Antinori Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato, perfect with Lasagna Toscane da Guido or Agnello Toscana alla griglia con insalatina e palate. A feast for both the eyes, the soul and the tummy, lunch at da Guido is always a delicious end to a perfectly wonderful day in Siena.
Glittering Nativity mosaic on the right gable of the facade
By the end of the 13th-century, the wolf suckling Romulus and Remus had already become a symbol of the city of Siena
The Duomo of Siena is a wondrous masterpiece of art and architecture
that never ceases to captivate - we visit every time we're in Umbria
The cathedral contains many masterpieces but the most exceptional work is the pavement,
such as 'The Wolf Suckling Romulus and Remus' a combination of marble intarsia and graffito
Stained glass window of the Last Supper is set in the oculus of the facade from 1549
The soaring dome of the Cathedral is known as 'Heaven's Dome'
Busts commemorating each of the Popes
The exquisite African granite pulpit designed by Nicola Pisano
Carved detail in the wooden choir in the apse area of the Duomo
Marquetry panels of the choir were inlaid with walnut, willow, cypress and box woods
The imposing 14th-century carved choir lectern
The monumental work in bronze on the high altar with candle bearing angels
Pintrucchio fresco outside the entrance to the Piccolomini Library
The sumptuous vaulted interior of the breathtaking Piccolomini Library, one of my favourite spaces in Italy,was built to house Pope Pius II library collection
The painted majolica floor of the Piccolomini Library dates from 1839
and depicts the Piccolomini gold crescent moon emblem
One of the famous artist Pinturicchio's frescoes depicting the Bishop of Siena introducing the emperor to his future wife Eleanor of Aragon
Detail of one of the illuminated manuscripts in the library of Pope Pius II
Detail of 'Liberale da Verona e Girolamo da Cremona'
The steep Scalinata di San Giovanni leads from the Duomo to the Baptistry below
The breathtaking beautiful Baptistry frescoes are one of the most representative examples of
15th-century Sienese painting
The central vault of the Baptistry with some frescoes by Vecchietta
The architectural structure of the Baptistry was designed into 24 vault webs with many artists involved in the theological decoration
The 15th-century Baptismal Font with inset bronze reliefs by Lorenzo Ghiberti and Donatello
Original 15th-century lion gargoyle from the Siena Duomo
Siena's Piazza del Campo is one of Europe's greatest medieval squares,
and site of the twice-a-year Palio di Siena horse race
The 13th-century Palazzo Publico served at the seat of the Republic of Siena's government,
and is a superb example of medieval architecture with a gothic influence
Piazza del Campo fishbone patterned red bricks were laid in 1349
Set slightly forward of the facade of the Palazzo Publico is the Capella di Piazza,
a marble chapel that was built by the Sienese to mark the end of the 1348 plague
Fonte Gaia is the monumental fountain in the Piazza that was completed in 1342
and was fed by water from 25 km away
Stopping for a cold beer in the Piazza del Campo on a hot Sienese day
Ristorante Da Guido in Siena
The vaulted brick interior of Ristorante da Guido, one of favourite restaurants in Siena
Full of charm, character and a subdued elegance
Da Guido's leather bound menu
Da Guido's menu of local Tuscan dishes
Our serving opening a chilled Antinori Rosato
2018 Antinori Scalabrone Bolgheri DOC Rosato Guado al Tasso
Selection of Tuscan foccacia and breads
Framed wall of celebrities who have dined at Da Guido including Pavarotti,
Daniel Craig and Sophia Loren
Selezione di affettati del Chianti con bruschette al pomodoro, paté di milza e carciofi sott'olio
Insalata Caprese
Prosciutto e Melone
Agnello Toscana alla griglia con insalatina e patate
Bietole: Swiss Chard
Patate al forno
Lasagna Toscane da Guido
Costolette di agnello fritte con fior di zucca
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