Night time balcony or 'Noryo-yuka' dining in Kyoto is a summer tradition, a scenic and delicious place to enjoy the cool breezes of the evening, for being landlocked by mountains Kyoto summers are hot and humid. The Kamogawa riverside has been an entertainment area for the people of Kyoto since the Nanboku-cho period from 1336 to 1392, when performances used to be held along the river and where folding benches called "Shogi" were set up to enjoy the hot summer evenings. During the Edo period, wooden terraces were eventually built out from waterfront restaurants which overlooked the river in Kyoto's Pontocho district from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, a custom that continues today, from May through to the end of September. Shiki Yoshina is such a restaurant, tucked away in a converted wooden teahouse on narrow Pontocho Alley, often called the most atmospheric street in Kyoto. Serving Kyo-Kaiseki — Kyoto style kaiseki cuisine — the menu changes with the seasons and features a fine selection of local sake from nearby Fushimi.
Arriving for dinner on a hot humid evening, we were seated at one of the coveted waterside tables overlooking the river under a blanket of stars with colourful lanterns swinging in a light breeze. With three kaiseki set menu options from which to choose, we selected the premium JPY10,000 kaiseki dinner for the full noryo-yuka Kyo-Kaiseki experience. Beginning with some delicious cold Kokuryu-Fukyu Sake, our dinner started with traditional Sakizuke appetizers, followed by Suimono, a clear broth with conger eel, tofu, seasonal greens and tangle of soba noodle. The next course Otsukuri, is always my favourite — a section of sashimi. Yakimono dishes follow which are grilled dishes and included sensational Grilled Ayu and two perfect slices of Wagyu Beef topped with grated daikon and ponzu citrus soy sauce, followed by Grilled Anago then Duck Tataki with simmered eggplant and cucumber. The next dish was Anemone, deep-fried Tempura of conger eel, mushroom, prawn and pepper. The final dishes are typically rice, which featured Anago Sushi with minced shiso, then Miso Soup and finally Mizumono, a lovely trio of desserts including Crème Brûlée, Hokkaido Musk Melon and Japanese Cheesecake. Lined with restaurants and bars that are reminiscent of a different time, especially at night, Pontocho is full of 'Kojima Shōten', Kyoto-style lanterns on wooden storefronts, and geishas in traditional kimonos gliding through the crowd. Soaking up the atmosphere and poking our noses into small shops, we wandered though the narrow alley after dinner to Shijo Dori, before wending our way home.
Shiki Yoshina on Kyoto's Pontocho Alley
Temizuya water basin to wash hands before entering restaurant
View from our waterside 'yuka' table overlooking the Kamo River
Cold Kokuryu-Fukyu Sake - the cult sake house from Fukui that was established in 1804,
and one of the first brewers to create daiginjo sake in 1975 and Japan's most coveted sake
Traditional 'Sakizuke' Course of assorted appetizers
Chicken with sesame sauce and Tamago Tofu - steamed egg tofu
Black Lacquer Soup Bowl
Suimono Course: A clear broth with Hamo - conger eel - with tofu, greens and tangle of soba noodle
Ostukuri: Sashimi Course with tuna, flounder and octopus
Yakimono Course: Grilled Ayu, a Japanese freshwater trout
Two perfect slices of Wagyu Beef topped with grated daikon
and ponzu citrus soy sauce and sliced negi
Grilled Anago
Decorative red and green bowl with floral motif
Duck Tataki with simmered eggplant and cucumber
Agemono Course of Tempura fried Hamo (conger eel), mushroom, prawn and pepper
served with a condiment of salt and lemon
Anago Sushi with minced shiso and ginger
Decorative laqueur soup bowl
Miso Soup with tofu and negi - Japanese green onion
Crème Brûlée, Hokkaido Musk Melon and Japanese Cheesecake
Kyoto's narrow Pontocho Alley, often called the most atmospheric street in Kyoto
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