Kabukiza is one of Japan's most famous Kabuki theatres, located in the heart of Tokyo. It was rebuilt several times since making its debut in 1889, with the most recent version completed in 2013, thankfully preserving its stunning Momoyama-style facade influenced by 16th-century castle architecture. With 2018 being the 130th anniversary of the Kabukiza, this autumn’s performances are divided into three parts and feature some of the most talented stars in kabuki today. Booking tickets months in advance, we chose an evening performance of Koman and Gengobē, a masterpiece by Tsuruya Nanboku IV — one of the most famous Japanese Kabuki playwrights of the late Tokugawa period (1603–1867), known for his plays with supernatural themes and macabre and grotesque characters. The lead role of Satsuma Gengobē was played by Matsumoto Kōshirō who is a Japanese kabuki actor, and one of the most famous tachiyaku currently performing in the world today.
Based on a ‘sewamono’, a category of plays portraying the lives of ordinary people in the Edo period (1603-1868), this powerful drama centers on Satsuma Gengobei, who is really Fuwa Kazuemon, one of the 47 ronin or masterless samurai of “Chushingura.” Matsumoto Koshiro, 61, is perfect as the gaunt, handsome Gengobei, obsessed with his love for Koman, performed by Nakamura Tokizo, 48, one of the finest onnagata active today. Sasanoya Sangorō is married to Koman, but she has become a geisha to enable him to raise the money he needs to help his lord, a man that he has never seen. In the pleasure quarters, the samurai Satsuma Gengobē falls in love with Koman and spends huge sums of money on her, despite the fact that he needs money for the ‘Chūshingura’ vendetta, better known as the ‘Revenge of the 47 Rōnin’. Finally, Gengobē brings a large sum of money to the pleasure quarters and Sangorō and Koman decide to defraud him of it, which results in an operatic-style massacre. Ironically, Gengobē is none other than the unknown master for whom Sangorō was trying to raise funds. This story of passion and greed takes place against the background of inexplicable fate and the strict requirements of samurai society, with ample doses of sardonic humour. A compelling play with fabulous sets and superb acting by the entire cast, our evening at Kabukiza will indeed be a night to remember.
The stunning Momoyama-style exterior of the Kabukiza Theatre in Tokyo
Rows of lanterns are lit in the evening giving the theatre a beautiful glow
Arriving early to get our seats for Koman and Gengobē by Tsuruya Nanboku IV,
one of the most famous Japanese Kabuki playwrights of the late Tokugawa period
A small screen for translations into multiple languages can be rented at the theatre,
and simply attaches into the seat in front
Matsumoto Koshiro, oe of the most famous Kabuki actors in the world today,
is perfect as the gaunt, handsome Gengobe
Original Kunisada Japanese Woodblock Print featuring Sawamura Tossho I as Yamakawaya Gonroku and Iwai Kumesaburo III as Yakko no Koman, from 1858
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