Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Wright Brothers in Borough Market: Oysters & Seafood

'From sea to table, and everything in between'. Wright Brothers acclaimed seafood restaurant tempts diners with an impeccable array of oysters, shellfish, day boat sustainable fish and fruits de mer in the heart of London's bustling Borough Market. Started in 2002 when brothers-in-law Ben Wright and Robin Hancock started a business delivering oysters to London's top hotels and restaurants, they acquired the lease of the Duchy of Cornwall Oyster farm on the Helford River three years later. They now supply over 300 of the city’s finest restaurants with a range of high quality, sustainable oysters, fish and seafood, including Caprice Holdings, Corbin and King, Gordon Ramsay, Fortnum and Mason, Chiltern Firehouse, Milos, Hawksmoor, and of course, the four other Wright Brothers restaurants. Relaxed, informal and full of life, Wright Brothers original Borough Market location is small but perfect, the ideal place to enjoy a fantastic seafood and oysters, all sourced from around the British Isles, Ireland and France, celebrating their "sea to plate" philosophy. The open kitchen, counter seating, high tables and blackboard menus all add to the magic. 

The Borough Market location is a small dining space made up of a long oyster bar and high tables, with tall barrels outside in the summer to slurp up Wright Brothers excellent oysters

The daily menu is written on a large blackboard above the bar 

Sitting at the long wood oyster bar wood counter with Wright Brothers awesome menu of seafood delights

Overlooking the open kitchen with head chef Rob Malyon at the helm

An old sardine can of hot sauces to garnish fresh oysters and Beef, Guinness & Oyster Pie

Glass of Spanish Albarino

A deep, dark cherry red Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Reserva

Fish Soup with rouille, Gruyère and croutons

With just two chefs and one oyster shucker on the long bar, the open kitchen is 
bustling especially over the lunch hour 

An old ships bell hangs in the kitchen and is rung when each order is ready

Bowl of whelks with homemade mayonnaise 

Meaty, plump and briny, it's hard to resist Wright Brothers whelks

Coconut, lemongrass and chilli mussels

Wright Brothers hearty, filling and warming Fish Pie

Wild Halibut with roasted beetroot, Le Puy lentils and green harissa

Wright Brothers’ Fish Pie
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy executive head chef of Wright Brothers Soho, David Gingell

14 oz smoked haddock
14 oz organic salmon 
1 1/2 oz grated parmesan

For the fish cream:
4 oz butter
4 oz flour
4 cups whole milk 
2 bay leaves
1 onion
2 garlic cloves
Skin from the smoked haddock
English mustard
A hand full of parsley
2 egg yolks

For the mashed potatoes:
4 lb Maris piper potatoes
14 oz butter 
1/2 cup whole milk

Bring the milk, garlic, haddock skin, onion and bay leaf to the boil and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan, then add the flour and cook until it is light brown and sandy in texture. Slowly add the milk, beating constantly a bit at a time. Cook for 20 minutes on a low heat.
Finish with mustard and parsley season to taste.
For the mash, peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until they are soft enough to fall off a sharp knife, and then pass using a fine sieve or ricer. Fold in the butter, egg yolk and milk season to taste.

To finish the pie, cover the bottom of a baking dish with the fish cream. On top of that put the salmon and haddock. Cover the fish generously with more fish cream. Top with the mashed potato and grated parmesan, and bake for 20 mins at 400°F. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

Butter-Roast Cod with Lentils, Celeriac Purée and Girolles
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of chef Roy Brett, Wright Brothers

Cod and girolles:
4 5 oz cod fillets, skin on
3 1/2 oz sea salt
3 1/2 oz girolles
3 1/2 oz olive oil
2 oz unsalted butter
Salt and pepper, to taste

Celeriac purée:
1 celeriac
7 tbsp fish stock
7 tbsp double cream
9 oz diced butter
Salt and pepper, to taste

3 tbsp olive oil
2 finely diced shallots
9 oz Puy lentils
4 cups golden chicken stock
1/4 bunch thymes, picked
1 bay leaf
Butter, to finish
Salt and pepper, to taste

To prepare the cod, sprinkle with salt all over and leave in the fridge for 15 minutes to extract water. Wash off, then dry in a jay cloth. Brush with olive oil, salt and pepper then set aside. 

To make the celeriac purée, place the celeriac on a bed of rock salt and bake in the oven at 300°F for 40 minutes or until tender, depending on the size of your celeriac. Once cooked, scoop out the flesh and chop and reserve in a bowl.
Reduce the fish stock in a thick bottomed pan by half, then add the double cream and reduce until the liquid starts to thicken. Now add the celeriac to the pan along with the chopped thyme. Season with salt and pepper and add the butter to enrich. Now blend until smooth, then reserve.

To cook the lentils, add a little olive oil to a heavy-based pan and bring to the heat. Add the shallots, thyme and bay leaf and cook without colour for several minutes. Now add the lentils, cooking again for several minutes.
Pour in chicken stock leaving a little in reserve, cover with greaseproof paper and cook until tender which may take 20 minutes or more. Fold in the butter and reserve. 

To complete the dish, heat up a non-stick pan with a little olive oil. Place the cod fillets skin side down and cook for several minutes until crisp. Place in a high oven for 4-5 minutes then remove. Add the mushrooms to the pan with a little seasoning. Squeeze a little lemon juice over the ingredient in the pan add a little butter to baste. Place the cod onto a drying cloth along with the mushrooms.
To plate, spoon the celeriac purée on the plate then add the lentils, girolles followed by the cod.

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