Fennel, Leek & Feta Frittata with Fresh Dill

If you've never cooked with fennel, you're not alone. For years I avoided the bulbous root because I didn't know quite what to do with it. All it took was a recipe by Lidia Bastianich for her Sausages with Fennel & Olives, and I was hooked. Fennel has a light but distinct anise, or licorice flavour, that's crisp and refreshing when raw, but when cooked slowly, becomes sweet, succulent and tender. A versatile ingredient for soups, braises and many baked dishes, the bulb's magic lies in its power to enhance other flavours, as with this fabulous Fennel, Leek & Feta Frittata with Dill. Simple to prepare, low in carbs and gluten-free, this light and delicious egg-based dish makes the perfect savoury side for roast pork, lamb and chicken, or enjoyed on it's own for brunch or as a light entrée with a simple salad.

Fennel, Leek & Feta Frittata with Dill
Serves 4-6

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
4 cups fennel, trimmed, quartered, cored and chopped
3 cups leeks, white and light green parts, cleaned and chopped
1/2 tsp salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
2 large garlic cloves, minced
3/4 cup chopped fresh dill
1/4 cup dry white wine
5 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup grated pecorino
3/4 cup feta cheese, crumbled

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large nonstick skillet, and add the fennel and leeks. Cook, stirring often, until the leeks and fennel are very tender and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 2 more minutes. Add the wine and cook until the moisture has cooked off, about 5 minutes. Then stir in the dill. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground white pepper, and remove the skillet from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a large gratin or baking dish with butter. Beat the eggs in a large bowl, then stir in the crumbled feta and fennel mixture. Combine well. Pour the mixture into the baking dish and bake 40-50 minutes until the gratin is set and the top and sides are beginning to colour. Remove from the oven, and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes before serving. This is delicious hot, warm or at room temperature, and makes a delicious side dish with roast pork, lamb or chicken. It also makes a lovely light brunch dish.

Ribolitta: A Classic Peasant-Style Soup

An icon of Tuscan cuisine, Ribolitta is a classic peasant style soup that looks more like a stew than a soup. A thick porridge of beans, winter vegetables and day-old bread, the soup used to be made from the leftovers of other dishes, which is how it got it’s name — 'Ribolitta' means 'reboiled'. There are many variations of the dish, but the main ingredients always include leftover bread, cannellini beans and inexpensive vegetables such as carrot, cabbage, beans, onion and cavolo nero - a Tuscan back leaf kale essential for an authentic Ribollita. However other robust greens such as swiss chard, savoy cabbage or kale work just as well.

Like most Tuscan dishes, the soup has peasant origins. It was originally created to stretch leftover Minestrone, but the soup was so delicious and satisfying, Ribollita eventually morphed into a dish in its own right. Sources date it back to the Middle Ages, when legend has it that servants gathered up food-soaked bread bowls from feudal lords' banquets and boiled them for their own dinners. Although Ribolitta doesn't take long to cook, adding ingredients in stages helps the soup to develop a fuller, more complex flavour. A perfect cold weather meal, Ribolitta is great to make in large batches — it freezes well and it's character will become even better over time. Served with a heaping bowl of grated pecorino, this soup is one of my winter favourites.




Ribollita Soup
Serves 8

1/2 pound dried or canned cannellini or barlotti beans
Kosher salt
1/4 cup good olive oil, plus extra for serving
1/4 pound large diced pancetta or smoked bacon
2 cups chopped leeks
1 cup chopped carrots
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup zucchini, chopped
3 tbsp minced garlic
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes in purée, chopped
4 cups coarsely chopped savoy cabbage
4 cups coarsely chopped kale or swiss chard
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
4 cups stale sourdough bread cubes, crusts removed
1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino, for serving


In a large bowl, cover the dried beans with cold water by several inches, cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight. For canned beans, rinse and drain before using.

Drain the beans and place them in a large pot with 8 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 45 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and continue to simmer for about 15 minutes, until the beans are tender. Set the beans aside to cool in their liquid.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large stockpot. Add the pancetta and onions and cook over medium-low heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until the onions are translucent. Add the carrots, celery, garlic, 1 tablespoon of salt, the pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium-low heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the tomatoes with their purée, the cabbage, kale and basil and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for another 7 to 10 minutes.

Drain the beans, reserving their cooking liquid. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, purée half of the beans with a little of their liquid. Add to the stockpot, along with the remaining whole beans. Pour the bean cooking liquid into a large measuring cup and add enough chicken stock to make 8 cups. Add to the soup and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.

Add the bread to the soup and simmer for 10 more minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve hot in large bowls sprinkled with Pecorino and drizzled with olive oil.

Pappardelle with Braised Monkfish & Tomato Sauce

A delicately flavoured, firm textured and meaty white fish, Monkfish is quite marvelous braised in a rich aromatic tomato sauce and served over a nest of pappardelle, which are large, very broad flat pasta noodles. The name comes from the verb 'pappare', which means 'to gobble up', an appropriate turn of phrase given the gusto with which the meal was devoured. A special treat, the dish was also made using pappardelle that we had brought back from Tuscany and fresh Pamigiano-Reggiano from Parma, from our last visit to Italy. 

Antica Bottega Toscana's local handmade Pappardelle from Arezzo

Homemade 'Mamma Styles' Tomato Sauce that we made this past autumn

Healthy and low in fat, the monkfish tail is cut into generous 1 1/2-inch thick medallions, and marinated in olive oil, lemon zest and fresh thyme, salt and fresh ground pepper. The medallions are gently sautéed until they're almost cooked through, then braised in tomato sauce, served over thick and satisfying pappardelle, and garnished with shaved Parmigiano — Magnifico!

Pappardelle with Braised Monkfish & Tomato Sauce

Serves 2

1 Monkfish tail

1 lemon, zested

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

2 tbsp olive oil

Salt & pepper to taste

2 cups Tomato Sauce, homemade or store-bought

4-ounces dried pappardelle pasta 

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 

Place the monkfish tail on cutting board and cut into generous 1 1/2-inch thick medallions. Combine a tablespoon of olive oil, lemon zest and fresh thyme in a large bowl with the medallions and season with salt and fresh ground pepper.

Preheat a large skillet on medium high with a tablespoon of olive oil. Sauté the monkfish until the medallions are almost cooked though, about 5 minutes per side, depending on the side of the medallions. Warm the tomato sauce in saucepan over medium-high heat. Once simmering, add the medallions and cook for a further 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil and cook the pasta until its al dente, according to the manufacturers instructions. Drain the pasta in a colander then return to the pot along with 1/2 cup of the tomato sauce; toss to coat. To serve, place the dressed pasta into two pre-warmed dinner bowls and top with the monkfish medallions and tomato sauce. Garnish with a flurry of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano with more on the side for extra helpings.

Dim Sum at Pearl Harbourfront: A Sunday Treat

Nestled away on the second floor of Toronto's Queen’s Quay Terminal, Pearl Harbourfront Chinese Cuisine has been tantalizing the taste buds of Toronto dumpling enthusiasts for over 30 years, and during that time, Executive Chef Gao Hui Feng has developed quite a dedicated following of Dim Sum devotées who take the escalator up to Pearl each and every weekend. Granted, the Peking Duck, Rainbow Chopped in Crystal Fold and Braised Lobster with Black Bean and Garlic Sauce are phenomenal, but what makes Pearl Harbourfront a culinary beacon for so many, is Chef Gao Hui Feng's exceptional Dim Sum, which literally means: to touch the heart.

Chopsticks are lined up and ready for our eagerly awaited Dim Sum feast

Dim Sum can be ordered from the menu or sampled from the trolleys 

that roll by with alarming frequency

Offering a more sophisticated dining experience than many other Chinese restaurants in the city, Pearl Harbourfront is a sanctuary of casual elegance with its bright modern interior of blonde woods, cream-hued walls, crisp white linens and floor-to-ceiling windows featuring fabulous views of Lake Ontario and the Toronto Islands. Offering Dim Sum seven days a week, the restaurant features a selection of over sixty delectable dishes served in steamer baskets and small plates, from steamed and pan fried dumplings, potstickers and rice noodles to sticky rice in lotus leaf, stir fried vegetables and a variety of innovative eye-catching desserts. 

Originally a Cantonese custom, dim sum is inextricably linked 

to the Chinese tradition of "yum cha" or drinking tea

Cold Tsingtao beer

Prices range from $3.75 for a bamboo basket of Crispy Spring Rolls or Steamed Chicken Feet; $5.50 for medium dishes such as Steamed Spinach Dumpling, Scallop Dumpling or Crispy Spring Rolls; $6.00 for large dishes including Siu Mai, Vegetable Cheung Foon and Sticky Rice in Lotus Leaf; to $7.50 for special plates which include Deep Fried Stuffed Crab Claw or Fried Beef Short Ribs with Honey Black Pepper Sauce. The best way to sample as many dim sum dishes as possible, is to bring a group of friends and order to your heart's content!

Steamed Scallop Dumplings

Hot mustard and spicy chili sauce are set at each table, as condiments for the dim sum

Barbecued Pork Pies

Pan fried 'hockey puck' dumplings with shrimp and chinese vegetables

Crispy Shrimp Rolls

Fried Shrimp Toasts

Pan Fried Chicken Dumplings

Deep Fried Shrimp

Crispy Spring Rolls

Steamed Beef Dumplings

Lychee Jellies dotted with Chinese Wolfberries

Festive poinsettias line the balcony outside the Pearl, a floral reminder 

that Christmas is just around the corner

www.pearlharbourfront.ca

Middle Eastern Lamb, Spinach & Chickpea Stew

Inspired by a memorable Persian lamb stew that I enjoyed a few weeks ago at Takht-e Tavoos, the third sibling in a quiet College Street empire of Persian restaurants run by Alireza Fakhrashrafi and Danielle Schrage, 'Dizi Sanghi' is a two part meal with the broth decanted into a soup bowl, followed by the lamb, beans and vegetable stew served in a tall stone pot, called a dizi. Coupled with my recent discovery of Lebanese grocery/deli/bakery Arz Bakery & Fine Foods, on the way back from Diana's Seafood, I was overwhelmed with the treasure chest of exotic Middle Eastern and Mediterranean produce at Arz, from their mountains of baklava, aisles of olives, multitude of mezze including tabbouleh, fattoush, hummus, falafel and kebbeh, to fresh dates still attached to the branch. The day I was there, fresh warm pita was being brought out straight from the ovens, and families who obviously knew when to arrive on a Friday afternoon, were hoovering them up as fast as the kitchen could bake them.

Lebanese born Armand Boyadjian, President of Arz Fine Foods

Pita bread warm from the oven

Mountains of homemade Baklava

Muhamarra, a tangy spread made with walnuts, oil, pomegranate molasses, 

lemon juice and Aleppo pepper powder made from sundried in Syrian chilies

Run by Lebanese born Armand Boyadjian, Arz has been around since 1989, starting first as a bakery before branching out into the grocery business. It now has a halal butcher, shawarma restaurant, cheese counter, prepared food counter and much more. It was however, the Persian 'Barbari' flatbread, cardamom tea, Lebanese olives, Lamb Kebbeh and Baladi, a soft, white Lebanese cheese, that I came away with as part of my precious culinary cache, and inspired the evenings dinner — an impromptu Middle Eastern repast.

A Middle Eastern marinade of cumin, ground coriander, cayenne, salt, pepper and vegetable oil

Common to many countries of the Middle East, lamb stew is made up of kebab cut pieces of lamb that are stewed with tomatoes. This hearty, healthy and low cal Middle Eastern Lamb Stew recipe from 'Eating Well', starts with lamb being marinated in an aromatic blend of classic Middle Eastern spices, then simmered with canned tomatoes, chicken broth and minced garlic. Finished with fresh spinach and fibre-rich chickpeas, the brothy stew is bright, full flavoured and reminiscent of the comforting Dizi Sanghi I enjoyed at Tavoos. I served the stew in the same manner, with the broth and stew prepared as a two-part meal. Topped with a crown of thick Greek yogurt sprinkled with bright red sumac, and thick slices of glossy barbari flat bread still warm from the oven, the Persian bread was perfect for scooping up every last drop of the thick broth and soft fragrant Lamb, Spinach & Chickpea Stew.

1 1/2-pounds of stewing lamb cut into 1-inch pieces

The lamb is mixed with the marinade and tossed to coat

Two chopped onions are added on top of the marinating lamb

A can of tomatoes, chicken stock and minced garlic is brought to a simmer in a large pot, to which the marinated lamb and onions are added

Covered and reduced to simmer over low heat for 3 hours, the stew has become rich and wonderfully aromatic, filling the kitchen with the most intoxicating smells

The fragrant broth is separated from the stew and served on its own as a soup before the remaining stew is presented as the second course

Persian flatbread warmed in the oven and sliced and served with the soup, 

stew and Lebanese Baladi cheese

Lebanese Baladi cheese garnished with Greek oregano and served with Lebanese black olives

Lebanese Kebbeh, torpedo-shaped fried croquettes stuffed with minced lamb

The lamb, spinach and chickpea stew is served after the soup, 

Served with Persian flatbread and thick Greek yogurt garnished with sumac, 

the stew is actually quite light but enormously flavourful

Taj al Moulokia, a birds nest shaped baklava made with noodle-like kadaif pastry, 

handmade at Arz — the finishing touch on our sumptuous Middle Eastern-inspied meal

Middle Eastern Lamb, Spinach & Chickpea Stew
Serves 6-8

1 1/2 pounds boneless lamb stew meat, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 tbsp canola oil
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 medium onions, chopped
1 28-ounce can whole or diced tomatoes
3/4 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 15-ouce can chickpeas, rinsed
2 bunches of spinach, washed and trimmed

Garnishes:
Persian flatbread (Arz Fine Foods)
Greek yogurt sprinkled with sumac
Lebanese Baladi cheese and olives (Arz Fine Foods)
Lebanese Kibbeh (Arz Fine Foods)
Baklava (Arz Fine Foods)


Mix the oil, cumin, coriander, cayenne, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the lamb to the spice mix and toss to coat well; top with chopped onions. Meanwhile, bring the tomatoes, broth and garlic to a simmer in a large pot over medium-high heat, then add the lamb and onion. Cover and cook until the lamb is very tender, about 3 to 3 1/2 hours on low heat.

Skim any visible fat from the surface of the stew. Mash 1/2 cup chickpeas with a fork in a small bowl. Stir the mashed and whole chickpeas into the stew, along with spinach. Cover and cook on high until the spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately with Persian Barbari flatbread and a bowl of Greek yogurt garnished with sumac.

SOURCES
• Lamb - La Boucherie, St Lawrence Market, Toronto
• Persian & Lebanese ingredients - Arz Fine Foods, 1909 Lawrence Avenue East

Warm Olives with Rosemary, Lemon & Peperoncino

Plump, glossy and gorgeous, these fragrant Lemon & Rosemary Marinated Olives with Peperoncino are a tangy and tasty hors d'oeuvre with a glass of wine, a lump of cheese and a warm crusty foot of baguette. Sauté the olives with some garlic, hot red pepper, lemon zest, rosemary and some infused olive oil catapults this appetizer to another gastronomic level — one that is fast, easy and quite delicious.




Warm Lemon & Rosemary Mixed Olives
Makes 2 cups

3 tbsp olive oil
2 cups mixed olives with pits: nicoise, cerignola, kalamata, picholine
1 clove of garlic, minced
zest of one lemon
2 fresh rosemary sprigs
1 hot red pepper, seeded and sliced thinly
Garnishes: rosemary sprig, lemon rind strips

In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sliced pepper and cook for 1 minute. Add the mixed olives and lemon zest and cook, stirring frequently, until warmed though and fragrant, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool 10-15 minutes. Garnish with some lemon curls and fresh rosemary sprigs. Serve warm with some crusty bread and your favourite cheeses.

Spinach & Ricotta Gnudi with Béchamel Sauce

One of my favourite winter dishes is Baked Spinach & Ricotta Gnudi, which are delectable little dumplings 'naked' of their pasta wrapper. A kissing cousin to gnocchi, these fluffy pillows of loveliness are made with ricotta rather than potato, which makes them lighter and more delicate in ways gnocchi rarely are. The technique for making these ethereal clouds of 'ricotta heaven' begins with a simple mixture of spinach, ricotta, eggs and parmesan cheese that's shaped into oval egg-size dumplings, and coated with a light dusting of flour. Placed in a baking dish, the gnudi are arranged in neat rows, covered with a rich and creamy béchamel sauce, a splash of sweet tomato sauce and baked in the oven for 35-45 minutes. It couldn't be easier. Four or five gnudi make an impressive starter; eight to ten, a dreamy main course that's damn close to food heaven.

Spinach & Ricotta Gnudi with Béchamel Sauce
Makes about 30 dumplings - serves 4 as an entrée or 8 as a starter

Dumplings:
2 10oz/300g packages frozen spinach, thawed and chopped
1 10oz/300g tub fresh ricotta cheese
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Fresh basil, chopped for garnish
1 tbsp butter, for greasing the baking dish
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups homemade or quality store-bought tomato sauce

Béchamel Sauce:
4 cups whole milk
7 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg


Thaw the frozen spinach, then drain and squeeze dry, getting rid of as much extra water as you can. It will make the dumplings hold their shape better.

In a medium bowl, combine the spinach, ricotta cheese, eggs, half the Parmesan cheese and a generous grating of nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper, and stir with a wooden spoon until well mixed. Set aside. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

While the oven is preheating, prepare the béchamel sauce by heating the milk in a saucepan. In a separate pan, melt the butter, then add the flour, stirring with a wooden spoon and cooking the roux until it becomes lightly golden, about 5-6 minutes. Add a ladleful of the warm milk at a time, stirring constantly so it doesn't form lumps. Continue until all the milk has been incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, and additional nutmeg to taste. Continue cooking and stirring on low heat for another 10 minutes. The sauce will thicken and become very smooth. Remove from the heat and cover.

Generously butter a large 9"x12" baking dish, and spoon enough béchamel sauce to cover the bottom. Pour the flour onto a flat plate. To make the dumplings, use your hands to form the spinach-ricotta mixture into the shape and size of a small egg, slightly elongated like a quenelle. Dust each dumpling very lightly in the flour and place them over the béchamel in neat rows. Continue until all the mixture is used up. Cover the dumplings with the remaining béchamel, dot the surface with tomato sauce and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese.

Bake until the top is lightly golden, about 40-50 minutes. Serve piping hot with a good sprinkling of fresh basil on each serving.