One of Umbria's most beautiful hill towns, Todi is perched high up in the mountains with spectacular views in every direction. Reached by an exciting drive through winding roads and hairpin turns, this ancient city is a true delight. Described as one of the 'most liveable towns in the world', Todi has retained much of the original features and charming character of the town's diverse historical periods in the face of passing time. Like rings around a tree, Todi's history can be read in layers. With a rich history dating back to around 1300 BC, Todi was settled by the Umbri, an ancient pre-Etruscan people who gave it the name Tudere. According to legend, one night the new conquerors were eating their meal which was placed on a red cloth, when suddenly an eagle descended upon them, seized the cloth with its talons and flew away, dropping it high up in the hills. This was interpreted as a divine sign, and the new town was built exactly where the eagle had shown. Tudere later became absorbed by the Romans in the 1st century BC, expelling the Etruscans from their new land, and the town became known as Todi.
Roman rule is still evident in many of Todi's architectural features, as are many of the town's Mediaeval buildings that were developed during the 13th century, such as the Piazza del Popolo, one of Italy 's most beautiful medieval squares and Todi's Duomo, the 12th century Cathedral of Santa Annunziata, which sits at one end of the square built on the ruins an ancient pagan temple. The simple facade is approached by a broad sweep of stairs that lead up to magnificent wood carved doors. Looking back, the Duomo commands an impressive view over the sunny Piazza, which is where we enjoyed an early morning cappuccino and pastry at a lovely Gran Caffé Serrani, before heading for lunch.
A symbol of culinary excellence and custodian of the traditions of the real tuderte cuisine, Michelin-starred Ristorante Umbria is the finest restaurant in Todi, and the oldest. After visiting the Duomo and San Fortunate, we wandered through the steeply winding streets that lead to small hidden entrance of Ristorante Umbria. With reservations made months earlier, we had a beautiful table waiting on the gorgeous outdoor terrace with spectacular views over the Tiber valley. Started by Sabatino Todini and his wife Ida over 60 years ago on a small farm located on the site of the restaurant where they used to sell wine in bulk, the property was slowly transformed into the beautiful gastronomic paradise we enjoy today. With a menu highlighting regional recipes and traditional Tuderte cuisine, we enjoyed a glorious lunch of local delicacies beginning with a glass of Prosecco and finishing with a bottle of dark and delicious Sagrantino di Montefalco. Fortified with a sumptuous lunch and hot frothy macchiato, we checked in to the Hotel Fonte Cesia, where we were staying for the night having purchased tickets to Dido and Aeneas at Todi's Teatro Communale for that evening.
Housed in a restored 17th-century noble stone building dating back to 1606, Fonte Cesia is a 4-star boutique hotel blending historic architecture with modern comforts and traditional Umbrian hospitality. Having booked the Junior Suite on the top floor of the hotel with a sprawling terrace overlooking the quiet square below, it was the perfect pied à terre for our night away from our Umbria villa. With the Teatro Communale a two minute stroll form the hotel, we were able to stroll over to see Dido and Aeneas, then enjoy an aperitif on the Piazza del Popolo after the performance.
and dominates Piazza del Popolo from the top of its staircase
and Umbrian architecture, and features a famous carved wooden double door created in 1521
by Antonio Bencivenni da Mercatello depict Saint Peter with his book and staff
The interior of the Duomo features a Latin cross layout with a soaring timber-trussed nave
The Duomo organ was built in the 1960s by the Pinchi,
reusing sound material from an earlier 1841 pipe organ built by Angelo Morettini
Arriving in Todi on a Sunday, we listened to this small child playing the Duomo organ
with surprising skill, finesse and confidence
The Duomo's gorgeous fresco by Ferraù Fenzoni in 1596 depicts the Last Judgment,
inspired by Michelangelo's treatment of the same subject in the Sistine Chapel,
This portion of the fresco is a swirling depiction of Hell
where the damned are violently dragged down into eternal torment by demons
A muscular, bearded old man represents a soul being physically hoisted
and cradled by powerful angels as he ascends toward heaven
was redone in 1958 to closely imitate or replicate the original medieval structure
The late-12th-century wooden sculpture of the Virgin Mary in the Duomo
The the iconic red-brick and terracotta limestone and marble from Mt. Subasio,
relies on the local Umbrian stone for the Duomo's interior floor
View over the Piazza and 13th-century Museo Civico from the Duomo
is the symbol of Todi and still on the town's coat of arms
opera Dido and Aeneas this evening
for the night in order to see the opera
Our enormous personal terrace was a real treat
A verdant oasis with stone urn with plants
with tall palms and lovely blue skies
A gorgeous carved stone fireplace and seating area with small mirror table
by the Perugian artist Giuseppe Frenguelli, with a massive Cypress planted in 1849
to commemorate Garibaldi's passage through Todi with his wife Anita
the rustic stone interior of Ristorante Umbria reflects its deep medieval history
A glass of Prosecco is the perfect start to any lunch
centred on seasonal local ingredients
Bracioline di Cinghiale aromatizzato al rosmarino
features a classic 19th-century Italian horseshoe-shaped design
the construction of the theater in 1868
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