Friday, December 6, 2019

A Taste of Palermo: Ballarò, Il Capo & Vucirria Market





Palermo has a rich history as being the most conquered city in the world. A prime example of this are the bustling street markets that first emerged during Arab rule, thousands of years ago. Known worldwide for being an authentic explosion of colours and enchanting scents of fresh products such as fruits, vegetables, meat and fish, Sicilian markets are always very crowded and noisy but this is their peculiarity: vendors shout very loud – and in dialect, of course – to attract locals and tourists and to promote their tasty specialties. Palermo boasts three famous street markets which are il Capo, Vucciria – which means “chaos” in local dialect – and Ballarò which is one of the oldest. A place that awakens all of the senses, the name Ballarò has ancient arab origins, which explains the similarity to Arab suqs. Il Capo is another area that remains virtually unchanged since the time of Arab rule. Along with Ballarò, these two are the most significant and true-to-life representations of street markets from this historically influential time in Palermo history, alive with vendors shouting, colours everywhere, and a lingering folklore of days gone by. With the exception of some Norman-Arab architecture and a number of words in the Sicilian language, the markets are perhaps the best-preserved of Sicily's Arab traditions, and a splendid way to spend a day exploring and savouring true Palermo.



A mountain of fresh Sicilian tomatoes

Setting up a display of lovely green apples in Ballarò

Prickly pears are generically known in Sicily as fichi d'India – Indian figs

Crates of large Sicilian eggplant

Enormously long 'Serpent of Sicily' are a mild squash that can be treated as a zucchini

Fresh squeezed pomegranate and blood orange juice

Known as frutta di Martorana, these life-like fruits appear real, but are made of marzipan

Local Sicilian cheeses and fresh pots of flavoured Ricotta

Selling cooked octopus dressed with olive oil and lemon juice

Feasting on all the sights and sounds of a busy market day

A rather grumpy fishmonger but his swordfish looks fabulous

Anchovies and sardines - freshly smoked, salted and in oil

A spiffy red 3-wheel Piaggia is an anchovy shop on wheels 

A maze of cobblestone streets connect Ballarò to Mercato del Capo

Mercato del Capo is Palermo's historic fish market, characterized by the colours and 'abbanniate' or shouts of sellers

Artfully tied fish at Il Capo

Fresh pink filleted sardines

Small tender calamaretti

Gorgeous pink locally caught shrimp

Whole swordfish area common site in Sicilian fish markets

Fishmonger slicing gorgeous pieces of swordfish

A mountain of plump Sicilian olives

Il Capo Market Fritturia, a small stall selling fresh fried fish

The market was bustling on a warm Palermo weekend

Il Maestro del Brodo in the historic Vucciria Market

Fresh fish and shrimp on ice in the front of Il Maestro

Il Maestro del Brodo revels in Italian soul-food classics, whether it be tortellini in broth, zucchini-and-prawn risotto, or grilled fresh fish

Il Maestro del Brodo menu specializes in fish and seafood

Local white wine 

Zuppa di Cozze: Mussel Soup with tomatoes

Spaghetti con Vongole, Gamberi, Ricci e Rucola Croccante: Spaghetti with clams, shrimp, sea urchin, and fried rocket

Risotto ai Sapori di Mare: Seafood Risotto with mussels, clams, shrimp and squid

Trancio di Pesce Spada alla Griglia: Grilled Swordfish



















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