A well-loved Toronto institution for over 50 years, Le Sélect Bistro built its reputation on well-executed bistro classics with longtime chef Alfred Ponzu (who is now executive Chef of the historic Royal Hotel in Picton). After a two-year hiatus, the beloved bistro finally reopened in June 2022, surmounting major challenges in the process, including the impact of the pandemic coupled with property tax hikes threatened to shutter it for good. Originally founded by extraordinary restaurateurs and partners Jean-Jacques Quinsac and Frederic Geisweiller who opened Le Sélect in 1977, after spending three decades on Queen West before moving to 432 Wellington just went to Spadina, Le Sélect Bistro reopened with new owners Allied Properties along with Scale Hospitality Group and restaurateur David Aisenstat (CEO of Keg Restaurants), who each vowed to maintain the legacy and heritage of Toronto's beloved restaurant.
Little has changed to the traditional French Bistro under the new management with new executive chef Ted Corrado and head chef Zachary Barnes whose goals were to pay homage to the restaurant’s 45-year legacy, including its classic approach to French cuisine. "We honestly wanted to keep it as true to Le Sélect as possible," says Corrado, with a reliable rotation of French classics including duck confit, moules-frites, cassoulet and tarte tatin.
Arriving for dinner with good friends on a busy Friday night, we were seated at a lovely table with a great view overlooking the restaurant with its burgundy leather studded banquettes and classic zinc bar. Aside from a few pieces of artwork, the new team has maintained the restaurants romantic aesthetic. Looking over Corrado's new menu, we began with a bottle of Charles Père et Fille Rouge Hautes-Cotes de Beaune and shared a selection of four delicious hors d'oeuvres including Tartare de Boeuf with truffle aioli, Escargots Bourguignons, Tarte aux Oignons et Chèvre with puff pastry, caramelized onion, grapes and figs, and Coquilles-St-Jacques with seared scallops, pommes Duchesse and herb butter. Our entrées featured a selection of the Bistro's classics — Croque Madame with ham, gruyère cheese and béchamel, Steak Frites with café de Paris butter, and delicious Poulet Rôti with truffle honey, herbes de provence and chicken jus. Having dined at Le Sélect Bistro back in it's heyday on Queen Street West where baskets full of bread with a rope-and-pulley system hung over each table, it's nice to know the restaurant is still around and it's legacy continues.
The Parisian-inspired decor of the new Le Sélect Bistro on Wellington St. West
Le Sélect Bistro menu of French classics
Our server with 2022 Charles Père et Fille Rouge Hautes-Cotes de Beaune
dijon mustard served with toasted baguette
Escargots Bourguignons with garlic, butter, shallots, lemon, parsley crumb and puff pastry
Coquilles-St-Jacques with seared scallops, pommes Duchese, herb butter, and herb crumb
Le Select Croque Madame with ham, gruyère cheese and béchamel
sandwiched between lightly crisp slices of bread and topped with a sunny-side-up egg
Poulet Rôti with truffle honey, herbes de provence and chicken jus
Autumn Scallops
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of chef Alfred Ponzu, chef of Le Sélect for over 10 years
Cauliflower Purée:
1 head cauliflower, cut into three-inch pieces
2 small shallots, julienned
1 tsp minced garlic
1/4 cup white wine
2 tbsp unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste
Autumn Vegetables:
4 watermelon radish
1 piece butternut squash
20 brussels sprouts
Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt, to taste
Scallops and Beurre Noisette:
10 to 20 scallops
Kosher Salt to taste
1 small shallot brunoised (for beurre noisette)
1 lemon
Extra virgin olive oil
Make Cauliflower Purée: Set the oven to 450°F. Line baking tray with parchment paper. Toss cauliflower in olive oil on tray and roast for 15 minutes until golden brown and beginning to soften. Heat olive oil in medium saucepan. Cook shallots and garlic until tender. Add white wine and roasted cauliflower and continue cooking until soft. Let cool slightly. Purée the cauliflower mixture in blender, adding butter. Season with salt to taste.
Make Autumn Veg: Reduce oven to 375°F. Line three roasting pans with parchment paper. Depending on size, cut each watermelon radish into 4 to 6 wedges. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Peel squash, cut in half and remove seeds. Cut each half into 3″ x 1″ pieces. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Cut brussels sprouts in half and remove any waxy outer leaves. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Roast vegetables separately. Times will vary per pan, but they should take between 15 to 25 minutes until cooked through and golden brown. Cooking vegetables separately ensures control of separate roasting times. Remove vegetables from oven and add salt to taste.
Make Scallops and Beurre Noisette: Heat olive oil in nonstick or cast-iron pan on high. Season scallops with salt on both sides. Place scallop presentation side down and away from you in pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes on first side until golden brown. Flip scallop and add knob of butter to pan for last minute of cooking. Watch timing closely: scallops taste best medium rare; if cooked too much they become rubbery.
Transfer scallops to plate lined with paper towel and let drain. Drain and wipe pan and return to medium-high heat. Add shallots to pan and sauté quickly until translucent. Add rest of the butter and continue cooking until butter begins to brown and smell nutty. Remove from heat and add lemon juice to stop cooking. Stir vigorously as butter will begin to foam and could boil over. Voila! Beurre Noisette. Add salt and lemon to taste, then pour beurre noisette into warm container.
Assemble and Serve: Spoon two tablespoons of hot cauliflower puree on four plates, creating bed for vegetables. Arrange hot vegetables on top of bed of cauliflower purée, alternating between brussels sprouts, watermelon radish and squash. Arrange four warm scallops on purée and sauce beurre noisette around plate, reserving shallots for tops of scallops. Serve and enjoy!
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