Thursday, November 29, 2018

Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese: An Italian Classic





Ragù served over silken egg tagliatelle is one of the signature dishes of Bologna, the food-loving capital of Emilia-Romagna. In fact, this rich, meaty tomato ragù is so closely associated with Bologna that any dish described as Bolognese will be cloaked in it. This recipe by chef Mario Batali from Babbo Ristorante, his flagship restaurant in the heart of New York City’s Greenwich Village, features an ever so slightly creamy ragù made with ground beef, pork and veal, and is flavoured with tomato paste instead of canned tomatoes."Ragù bolognese is made differently by every mother or grandmother or son who learns it, but all practitioners follow a fairly basic formula, starting with a combination of carrots, celery and onions chopped very finely, and because this recipe originated in Emilia-Romagna, the mixture is heated with equal parts butter and oil: butter being the lipid of choice in the north, olive oil in the south".

"When the butter emulsifies, the combination creates a velvet-like texture. I use three kinds of meat in my ragù: veal, pork and beef, which adds a depth of flavour that I love. I cook the meat with the vegetables until it's brown so as to render the fat completely out. As the water evaporates, the temperature of the pot will increase and the meat will brown in its own uniquely delicious way. The only liquids used are milk and white wine to add richness and layers upon layers of flavour. Ragù bolognese is an essential building block for some of the greatest dishes in the canon of Italian cooking, but few rival the simple preparation of Tagliatelle al Ragù: flat noodles dressed with sauce and topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano — Perfection".




Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of Mario Batali 

2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 medium onion, very finely chopped, about 1 1/3 cups
4 stalks celery, very finely chopped, about 2 cups
4 small carrots, vey finely chopped, about 1 cup
5 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
3/4 lb ground veal
3/4 lb ground pork
3/4 lb ground beef
1 6-oz can tomato paste
1 cup whole milk
1 cup dry white wine
Maldon salt, to taste
1 lb fresh tagliatelle or 14 oz dried
1 cup grated Parmigianno-Regianno 
Fresh Italian parsley, for garnish 


In a 6 quart heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat until melted. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and garlic, season with salt, and cook until the vegetables are translucent but not browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the veal, pork, and pancetta, increase the heat to high and brown the meat, stirring frequently. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the meat is dark brown and the fat has rendered out completely. 

Add the tomato paste and cook it in the fat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the colour is rusty orange. Add the milk and cook until almost completely reduced. Add the wine and bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2 to 3 hours. Season the ragu with salt, remove from the heat, and keep warm.

Cook the tagliatelle in boiling salted water until al dente, then drain, reserving 1/2 cup of pasta water for sauce. In a large sauté pan heat about 1 1/2 to 2 cups of sauce over medium heat. Add the cooked pasta and about a 1/2 cup of reserved pasta water, then stir to coat the pasta. Add 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano and 4 tablespoons of olive oil, and stir until creamy. Serve and garnish each plate with a flurry of Italian parsley and a generous amount of freshly grated Pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano.














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