Arezzo Antique Market & Ristorante La Pieve

 

Considered to be one of the finest antique fairs in Tuscany, the Antique Market in Arezzo was the first market of its kind to be established in Italy in 1968. On the first Sunday of every month, the market takes advantage of the extraordinary scenery of Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Grande and the Logge del Vasari, with stalls also spreading over the side alleys and squares across the historic centre, transforming the character of the city for the two days of the fair. The Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo has grown over the years in size and reputation with around 500 vendors from across the country selling their treasures at the market, with an array of beautiful old furniture, paintings, silverware, antique books, assorted china, crystal and jewellery. A haven for antique collectors, the warren of shops that usually line the winding streets of Arezzo, and are worth spending an entire day to explore, however the sunny morning we arrived, the market was set up in the gorgeous Passeggio del Prato, a leafy park just steps from Piazza Grande. Arriving early for a cappuccino at Gli Svizzeri Pastisseria, we spent the morning exploring the Market looking for hidden gems. 

The city's greatest artistic treasure however, is Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle The Legend of the True Cross, located in the Basilica of San Francesco. Started in 1452, this early Renaissance masterpiece tells the story of the 'True Cross', considered to be Piero della Francesca’s greatest masterpiece and narrates a medieval story about the cross on which Jesus was crucified. The story tells the legend of the cross used to crucify Christ, from sprig to Tree of Knowledge, to its use a bridge during the reign of Solomon, and ultimately its discovery by Helena, mother of Constantine, the first Christian emperor. 

To our great surprise, the annual Giostra del Saracino, an ancient tournament of chivalry dating back to the Middle Ages, was taking place the same day. The event opens with a colourful procession of over 350 participants dressed in ornate 14th-century costumes, and where four neighbourhoods or 'Quartieri', each defined by unique heraldic colours and symbols, compete twice a year in the sloping Piazza Grande for the golden trophy known as the Lancia d'Oro. 

We always make a reservation at Ristorante La Pieve which specializes in classic Tuscan cuisine with the scents and flavours of chef Donatella's homemade pasta and decadent dolce. Located in a 14th-century building on the Corso Italia, the beautiful country style interior with fresco-style wall details, La Pieve also boasts an  outstanding menu featuring truffles, seasonal porcini mushrooms, local produce, fish and game. Having made a reservation weeks before to secure a table for Sunday lunch, we began with some lovely chilled prosecco, and followed with Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio with shaved fennel and pink peppercorns. For our entrées, we chose the "Scottadito" lamb chops with roast potatoes as well as an outstanding Tagliata di Manzo ai funghi porcini, cooked with the fresh new porcini mushrooms of the season. We even indulged in some dolci including a superb creme caramel, before winding our way home to our villa Campello sul Clitunno in the Umbrian hills, with a few antiques tucked under our arms and a contented smile on our face — la dolce vita.

The famed Arezzo Antiques Fair held the first Sunday of every month

Antique Books with beautiful etchings

A beautiful collection of antique prints and etchings were enormous tempting

Lovely vintage books

Cherubs, putti and angels

The silver tables always catch my eye — I could easily buy everything

Antique seller from Antichta Lenza with paintings and putti

The 13th-century steeple of the Duomo di Arrezzo soars over the park 

where the Antique Fair takes place with the bells ringing at midday

View from the Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo of the Tuscan countryside

An antique hand painted panels of parrots

A lovely convex mirror in the Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo

A father and son wearing the scarf or 'foulard' the declares their allegiance

to their quartiere for the Giostra del Saracino

Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo stall selling vintage commercial signs and lighting

Bouquets of festive balloons are a beacon for young children

The famous Palazzo delle Logge in Arezzo is a monumental Renaissance building designed by the famous artist and architect Giorgio Vasari, who was in fact born in Arezzo

The 150th anniversary of the Giostra del Saracino in Arezzo

was being held the Sunday we were in Arezzo

Seating in Piazza Grande, the sloping main medieval square of Arezzo,

is the site of the Giostra del Saracino which will take place later this afternoon

In anticipation of the great parade preceding the famed Giostra del Saracino,

we happened across a few of the jousters getting ready and having a quick drink

Ristorante La Pieve is our favourite spot for lunch when we're in Arezzo

The ochre coloured interior of La Pieve

Luncheon menu of Tuscan specialties

Small birdcage with fragrant dried roses

A plate of Tuscan Pane sciocco, which is distinguished from others Italian breads by a lack of salt

The famous white wine from San Gimignano is Vernaccia di San Gimignano, 

often called the "White Queen in a land of Red Kings"

Lovey Giancarlo takes car of all the guests at La Pieve and remembered me 

as I had made a reservation for lunch a month before using my 'best Italian'

Il flan di carote con fonduta di grani di bufala stagionata 36 mesi è chips de patate

Carpaccio di tonno e pesce spada affumicati

Tenuta di Campriano Chianti Riserva 2024

A smooth and rich chianti by the Mancini family

L'Anatra in porchetta arrosto

Ricciola alla griglia con salsa al timo limonato e mandorle a lamelle

Spinaci salati

Le patate con la buccia arrosto

Our favourite pasta shop in Arezzo - Antica Bottega Toscana

Strangozzi, a Tuscan pasta with the colourful nickname 'priest strangler'

Piero della Francesca's masterpiece cycle, the Legend of the True Cross

in the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo

The scenes are divided into three levels on the central wall and on the side walls of the Bacci Chapel 

tell the story of the wood on which Jesus Christ was crucified

The Annunciation frescoe with the Archangel Gabriel greeting the Virgin Mary 

to announce that she would conceive and bear Jesus

The Queen of Sheba venerates the wood from which the Cross will be made 

On the eve of his battle with Maxentius to decide who was to be the undisputed Emperor of Rome, Constantine lies asleep in his tent

Constantine’s victory over Maxentius, with above, 

Finding and Recognition of the True Cross where 3 crosses are unearthed

The ceiling of the Bacci Chapel is decorated with frescoes of the Four Evangelists, 

painted by the Florentine artist Bicci di Lorenzo starting in 1447

Wandering along Corso Italia to fetch our car and wend our way home

after a wonderful day in Arezzo

Castelluccio di Norcia: The Prized Lentils of Umbria

Set against the majestic Sibillini Mountains high up on the Castelllucio plateau in the heart of Italy’s Apennine Mountain Range, the story of Castelluccio lentils is a tale of centuries-old traditions, and of families farming ancient lands in much the same way their ancestors did. Famous for their flavour, size, and ability to grow in a challenging mountain environment, these lentils represent a unique example of how agriculture can adapt to high-altitude landscapes. Winters are cold, and the growing season is relatively short, typically lasting from late spring to early autumn. These conditions limit crop diversity, but they create an ideal environment for lentils.

Today the lentils of Castelluccio di Norcia represent more than just a local crop. They are part of a landscape where agriculture, environment, and cultural tradition intersect. On a mountain plateau where farming conditions are demanding, this small legume has become a symbol of regional identity and sustainable high-altitude agriculture. Arriving for a day trip while visiting Norcia, this was our first time in Castellucio, and it quite possibly one of the most beautiful places in Umbria. Having heard about Ristorante Taverna Castelluccio, we stopped for lunch in their new premises after the town was all but destroyed in the catastrophic earthquake that struck the entire region in 2016.

For three generations, the Caponeccin family has lovingly run Taverna Castelluccio, in the heart of the Sibillini Mountains. Here, tradition is served at the table with genuine Umbrian dishes, local ingredients, and breathtaking views, welcoming every guest like one of the family for over 39 years. After lunch, we stopped to purchase some Castelluccio lentils from Patrizio, who runs one of his family's 'Azienda Agricola di Castelluccio di Norcia' stalls in town, and what a jolly fellow he was, as he bid us farewell with a smiling "Ciao Ragazzi"!

Local flowers decorate our table at Taverna Castelluccio

Embossed leather menu of Taverna Castelluccio

Il Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi di Villa Bucci

Basket of warm homemade bread

Zuppa le lenticchie IGP Bio, indicates 'Indicazione Geografica Protetta', ensuring the lentils 

comes from a specific region and follows strict local farming rules

Fresh Strengozzi al Tartufo Nero Fresco

Tagliata di Manzo Argentino al Tartufo Nero and Umbrian EVO

Patate al Forno

Cicoria saltata in padella

The half bottle of Verdicchio was simply delicious

Crostata Castelluccio con lenticche e ricotta with fresh yogurt with berries

A perfect Macchiato 

Created by one of the owners grandchildren, the 'conto' was charming

One of the chefs of Taverna Castelluccio with a big smile,

when I asked her if I could take her photograph

The Piano Grande of Castellucciio in the Monti Sibillini National Park, 

dominated by Monte Vettore, the highest peak in the range

Lovely Patrizio who sold us 8 packages of Lenticche di Castelluccio,

with a 'Ciao Ragazzi' as we left — "Bye-bye kids!

The small outdoor stall where Patrizio sells the prized Castellucccio Lentils

Umbria's prized lentils from Castelluccio are tiny brown jewels 

with a delicate flavour and wonderfully tender texture

Norcia: The Land of Truffles, Salumi & Cinghiale

 

Norcia is a small picturesque town nestled in the southeastern region of Umbria, completely enclosed by its 14th century walls and surrounded by the spectacular snow capped mountains of Monti Sibillini Park. With a great culinary history, this ancient town is famous for its lentils, prized black truffles, cheese and renowned brancaleone and dried salumis. The name salumi traces its roots back to 'sale' from its traditional salt curing process. Each type of salumi is known by the kind of meat and process by which it's cured, and in Norcia, because most of the meat come from wild boar, it's not surprising that heads of tusked cinghiale are hung in decoration outside many of the Norcerias throughout the town. Arriving for a visit since we were last in Norcia twelve years ago, much of the town and area homes were still being restored after the devastating earthquake that rocked the area in 2016. Fortunately the 13th century Basilica di San Benedetto was reopened for worship on October 31, 2025, exactly nine years after it was nearly destroyed by the powerful 6.6-magnitude earthquake on October 30, 2016. Thankfully, the shopkeepers were all open for business and the town was bustling on a beautiful sunny day on September 1st, the feast day of Umbria's Saint Terenzio.

Michael, owner of Brancaleone da Norcia, is where we bought thick slices 

of his hand carved Prosciutto di Norcia to bring home to our villa

Heads of Cinghale hang outside each of the Norcineria selling products unique to the area

14th-century bell tower of Norcia's Torre Civica bell tower is still being restored

after the area's devastating earthquake in 2016

Basilica di San Benedetto is now rebuilt after the devastating earthquake,

is built on the remains of the Saint's birthplace

The interior has a simple, single-nave design that blends elements 

from various eras after multiple seismic repairs

13th century Frescoed niche of Madonna and Child

Original Roman remnant of capital in the crypt's archaeological area, 

is associated with the imperial-era forum basilica

Smaller portion of an interior column from the imperial-era of the Basilica

Top portion of a capital with gargoyle-style features

Inside the crypt, particularly in the left apse — traditionally identified as the birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica — fragments of 14th-century frescoes are preserved

The masonry in the crypt preserves sections of 'opus reticulatum', an ancient Roman 

construction technique where small, diamond-shaped blocks of stone are set in a diagonal, 

net-like pattern around a concrete core

A Norcineria where we bought some local salsicce and cippolini

Hanging fresh cippolini

This historic stone gate, which serves as the primary southern entrance through the city's ancient 

14th-century defensive walls, the central archway on Porto Romana, is the village timekeeper

As the road ascends the slopes of the Sibillini Mountains towards Castellucio, 

there is a breathtaking view of Norcia in the the Valnerina

The ubiquitous Cinghale of Norcia are found throughout the hills 

Pasta alla Norcina

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Valeria Necchio

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

14 oz Italian pork sausages, crumbled

5 fl oz dry white wine

7 fl oz single cream

14 oz penne or rigatoni

1 3/4 oz Pecorino Romano, grated

fine sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil and the garlic in a large frying pan set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking and the garlic is fragrant, add the crumbled sausage. Brown the sausage, stirring and scraping all the while with a wooden spatula to prevent it from sticking and burning. Next, remove the garlic and pour in the wine. Allow it to evaporate while carrying on scraping the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and finish cooking the sausage in its own juices for 10 minutes. Uncover, taste and season. Pour in the cream and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Reduce it for 3–4 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside. 

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to the pan with the sausage and cream sauce. Place the pan over a low flame and toss the pasta to evenly coat it with sauce – you can let the sauce down with a little pasta water if you see it is getting too thick. Top the plated pasta with a generous dusting of grated pecorino and some freshly ground black pepper before serving.