Located in the 'green heart' of Italy and perched on a ridge overlooking the Tiber River valley, the beautiful Umbrian hillside town of Deruta is one of the “Borghi più Belli d'Italia”. Known throughout the world for its spectacular pottery, or ceramiche maiolica, it's an industry that has been central to the economy of the town since the 14th-century due to its rich local clay deposits combined with a position on historical trade routes allowed Deruta pottery to flourish and reach buyers across Europe, guaranteeing the town a notable income.
Maiolica is still is produced in many Italian towns, including Orvieto, Castelli, Faenza and Sicily’s Caltagirone, but true maiolica devotées ultimately seek out Deruta, where hundreds of factories still produce the colourful ceramics that can be shipped worldwide. It's still possible to visit artists at work in some of the smaller shops in the town, as well as the famous Museo Regionale della Ceramica which is housed in what was once a Franciscan monastery. The oldest ceramic museum in Italy, the museum has displays explaining how ceramics have been produced throughout the centuries from the 14th-century up to the present day. Next door to the museum is the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Francesco, with its simple Gothic interior and spectacular 13th-century bell tower.
Arriving in Deruta on a glorious September afternoon, we were able to sniff around and have a good look in some at the town's famous ceramics, even purchasing two beautiful Majolica wine pitchers, including one with the iconic Raffaellesco dragon motif, traditionally attributed to the High Renaissance master Raphael. With our purchases in hand, we made our way along Corso Cavour to Taverna del Gusto, which was nestled in a small cobblestone courtyard where we had dined before while visiting Deruta years ago. Enjoying a glass of wine and sampling their traditional Umbrian cuisine with its strong focus on local ingredients, fresh handmade pasta and black truffles, dining at Taverna del Gusto was the delicious end to a wonderful day in Deruta.
The main entrance gate to Centro Storico di Deruta is Porta di San Michele Arcangelo,
which was built during the 13th/14th century
The most interesting shops are within the old walled town of Deruta
The cozy Caffe dei Consoli on Piazza dei Consoli,
was the ideal place to stop for a cappuccino and a dolce
with a lemon and vanilla-scented custard filling topped with crunchy pine nuts
Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Francesco dates back to the 14th-century,
when it was restored after the earthquake
by Domenico Alfani
The upper segments, or sails, of the apse vaulting are decorated with a deep blue background featuring the Franciscan coat of arms in the centre, flanked by representations of the four Evangelists
Deruta's internationally renowned Museo Regionale della Ceramica
originally from Deruta's Church of San Francesco, and features a view of the town of Deruta at the base
fresh handmade pasta, black truffles, and wild game
Fresh homemade Umbrian bread in woven basket
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