Treadwell: Dinner in Niagara-on-the-Lake

 

An absolute gem of the Niagara farm-to-table fine dining culinary scene, every local gourmand knows and loves Treadwell Cuisine. Stephen Treadwell is one of Ontario’s food stars. Together with his owner-partner son/sommelier James Treadwell, they have won rave reviews from The Toronto Star, Toronto Life, enRoute, Wine Spectator, the list goes on, and with good reason. The elegant menu evolves with the harvest and ingredients are sourced from local farmers from Cumbrae Farms in Smithville, to ‘Mr. Storosko’ who grows raspberries and wild garlic in his backyard. Formerly the head chef at Queen's Landing in Niagara-on-the-Lake and Auberge du Pommier in Toronto, Treadwell brought the European concept of 'farm-to-table' dining to Southern Ontario more than a decade ago, sourcing regional suppliers within an easy transportation distance to the restaurant. The father and son team are vocal and passionate about emphasizing the best artisan producers of Southwestern Ontario, and their restaurant is a showcase of local farmers, producers and vintners. It's simple, perfect food, and allows the ingredients to speak for themselves. 

Arriving for dinner while in Niagara-on-the-Lake after a 2-year hiatus due to Covid, we were thrilled to be able to dine at our favourite restaurant in this picture perfect flower-filled tree-lined old town. New to Treadwell is their 4-course menu with Sommelier wine pairings, of which we decided to take full advantage. Beginning with a glass of champagne, we indulged in chef Stephen Treadwell's seasonal menu from start to finish. Walking home to our hotel under a blanket of stars, it was a perfect end to a stellar evening — one which we hope to repeat without waiting another two years.

Fresh baked warm bread served with Niagara olive oil and Baco Noir Balsamic

Treadwell's new 4-Course menu with wine pairings

13th Street Winery Méthode Traditionnel Blanc de Blanc

The sommelier pouring our chilled glasses of 13th Street sparkling 'Bubbley'

Chilled Peach Gazpacho with Quiet Acres Peaches and Pickled Chilies

Monforte Sheep’s Milk Fresco Cheese with Heirloom Tomato & Peach Salad and Sherry Vinaigrette

Miniature vine grown yellow tomatoes were part of my delicious salad

Renegade 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé was the first of the Sommelier wine pairing

of the evening

A lovely dry Rosé with flavours of summer strawberries and cherries, a perfect wine with our first course of local Niagara tomatoes and peaches

Seared Quebec Foie Gras with Cinnamon Pain Perdu and Quiet Acres Blackberries

2019 13th Street Gamay from Whitty Vineyard was paired with the foie gras

Fresh and dry on the palate with flavours of black raspberry, cherry and black pepper with light tannins, balancing acidity and a long finish

Pan Seared East Coast Scallops with Corn, Pingue’s Cacciatore and Salsa Verde

2018 Nadja's Vineyard Riesling was paired with the scallop dish

Nadja's Vineyard Riesling is known for producing this expressive and mineral-driven Riesling

Maple Glazed Muscovy Duck Breast with Turnips & Broccolini and Ontario Blueberry Jus

Spanish 2019 Rioja Tempranillo Moraza from San Vicente de la Sonsierra, was paired with the duck 

2018 Silver Trail Cabernet Sauvignon from California was paired with the beef

Sommelier pouring the Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon

Fillet of Ontario Beef with Lyonnaise Potato, Summer Mushrooms, Shaved Truffle and Red Wine Jus

Lemon & Basil Tart with Honey and Fennel Pollen Ice Cream

2020 Meldville Bubbley Muscat from Legends Estate Winery 

is a sparkling wine made using Muscat Ottonel grapes and with flavour of sweet peach

Toro Albalá Don PX 1990 is one of the few bodegas to still produce statically aged fortified Pedro Ximenez wines in the small Andalucían region of Montilla-Moriles

Selection of Artisanal Cheeses from The Cheese Boutique, served with Toasted Date Nut Bread, Blueberry Conserve and local Honeycomb

www.treadwellcuisine.com

Sliced Prosciutto with Preserved Lemon, Shaved Pear, and Arugula

Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of chef Stephen Treadwell

1 cup preserved lemons (see recipe below)

24 slices good-quality prosciutto, preferably Pinques of Niagara

6 cups arugula

2 pears, Bose or similar, thinly sliced

3 tbsp fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 1/2 tbsp truffle oil, black or white, if available

3.5 oz Monforte Toscano cheese or good-quality Parmesan, sliced

1/2 cup Niagara cold-pressed Persall canola oil

1/4 cup Niagara Baco Noir balsamic vinegar

Preserved lemons:

2 lemons

2 shallots

2 tbsp tarragon

2 tbsp chervil

1 tbsp fleur de sel or good-quality sea salt

Freshly ground white peppercorns, to taste

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Blanch lemons in boiling water for 1 minute, then remove and place in iced water. Dry in towel. Slice lemons thinly, but not so thin that you can’t pick them up.

Place a layer of lemon slices on the bottom of a small 1-inch deep dish. Sprinkle finely chopped shallots, tarragon, chervil, fleur de sel, and freshly ground white pepper over lemons. Drizzle with olive oil. Continue with layers until lemons are used. Cover with plastic wrap and press down with suitable weight. Place in refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. This recipe can be doubled for use in other dishes.

For the salad, place a few slices of the preserved lemon in the centre of the plate, then arrange prosciutto slices over lemon. In bowl toss arugula leaves and thinly sliced pear in lemon juice and truffle oil, and arrange over the prosciutto. Garnish with long shavings of cheese. Drizzle canola oil and balsamic vinegar around plate, and serve.

Pan-Seared Whitefish with Sweet Pea and Corn Risotto

Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of chef Stephen Treadwell 

6 whitefish fillets, or perch or snapper

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground white peppercorns, to taste

Corn Stock:

4 smoked husks of corn, done in a smoker or in aluminum foil on a barbecue

1/2 cup celery, chopped

1/2 cup leek, chopped, with green outer leaves removed

4 lime leaves

5 white peppercorns

1 serrano pepper

Sweet Pea and Corn Risotto:

2 ears corn

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 cups Arborio rice 

1/2 tsp salt

2 cups corn stock

1 cup sweet peas, blanched

2 tbsp unsalted butter, diced

1/2 cup Italian parsley, chopped

2 tbsp chives, chopped

1 tbsp preserved lemon, chopped

Watercress and pea shoots, to dress

Toscano cheese, or similar, to taste

For the corn stock, cover all ingredients with water. Bring to boil and simmer for 1 hour. Remove from heat. Remove lime leaves and serrano pepper. Cover and leave to cool for 24 hours before straining.

For the risotto, grill the corn ears to colour on a barbecue. Cut from cob and reserve. Sweat a shallot in olive oil over medium-high heat for a few seconds. Add garlic and continue cooking for 1 minute. Add rice and salt, and stir for 1 to 2 minutes. Start adding the hot corn stock a little bit at a time, adding more as it evaporates. Continue until rice becomes al dente.

Add grilled corn kernels, sweet peas, and 1 tbsp of the diced butter; continue cooking, adding more stock as needed. Finish by adding the remaining butter, parsley, chives, and chopped preserved lemon. Garnish with watercress, pea shoots, and shaved Toscano cheese.

Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add a small amount of olive oil to pan and immediately add fish skin-side down to cook for no more than 2 minutes. Turn and finish for another minute. To serve, remove and plate fish atop risotto, with garnish of additional pea shoots or fresh herbs.