Monday, May 20, 2019

Rosalinda: Toronto's First Vegan Mexican Restaurant





Opened in May 2018, the lush sunlight filled greenhouse-inspired setting with a cascade of hanging ferns, Rosalinda is Toronto's vibrant new plant-based vegan Mexican sensation by some of the city's most notable restaurateurs: a culinary collaboration between Grant van Gameren of Bar Raval and Bar Isabel, and the Pizzeria Libretto team of Max Rimaldi and Jamie Cook. In the kitchen, the focus is on what chef de cuisine Matthew Ravenscroft calls “the power of vegetables”. “There’s so much flavour and depth,” he says. “With proper technique, you can create a lot of really interesting combinations that are very unexpected, but you don’t really have to manipulate the vegetables too much. We want people to see that vegetables are something to really be enjoyed and showcased, not cast to the side of the plate.” 

The result is an innovative menu of small simple vegetarian dishes, created with executive chefs Kate Chomyshyn and Julio Guajardo that celebrates the best of Mexico and Baja California, with big, bold flavours and seasonings to create complex dishes from simple, vegan ingredients, centred around snacks, shared dishes, tacos, tostadas, larger plates and bowls, as well as a creative cocktail menu by mixologist Owen Walker. The crispy mini Potato and Mushroom Flatuas topped with poblano salsa and cashew crema and luscious smokey Roasted Japanese Eggplant served on a bed of salsa macha and sikil pak and topped with cashew crema and a smattering of pomegranate seeds are full of flavour, artfully presented and absolutely delicious. For dessert, there's nothing quite like freshly fried homemade churros. Rosalinda's long, fluted Spiced Churros with cinnamon sugar arrive hot from the kitchen and are served with a gorgeous chocolate banana caramel sauce, are not to be missed.



Potato and Mushroom Flautas with poblano salsa and cashew crema

Domino de Punctum Viognier from Spain


Roasted Eggplant with sunflower salsa macha, peanuts, pomegranate and cashew crema

Chilaquiles Verdes with crispy tortilla, avocado, jalapeno, kale, cashew crema and queso

Spiced Churros with cinnamon sugar and chocolate banana caramel













Mole Almendrado
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy of chef Matthew Ravenscroft

Chef Ravenscroft serves the mole underneath the root veg and then will garnish with a little something. “In this case I would do almonds just to add that extra bit of a crunch — maybe some chopped herbs for a nice brightness."

6 dried ancho chiles
6 dried cascabel chiles — use fewer for a less-spicy sauce
3 dried guajillo chiles
3 3/4 cups water
2 Roma tomatoes, halved
1 clove garlic
1/2 onion
4 1/2 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp raw almonds, toasted
3 tbsp sesame, toasted
2 tortillas, toasted
Pinch cinnamon
Pinch oregano
Pinch paprika
Sea salt


Remove the stems from chiles. Any seeds that come out are fine, but not every seed needs to be removed. Place in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Once at a boil, remove from heat and let steep. Do not dump the chile water; save for later. Set oven to broil at 500°F+. Place the tomatoes, onion and garlic on a baking sheet tray and place in the oven until fully charred. Burn them more than you may think. Separately toast the almonds, sesame seeds and tortillas in a pan over medium heat.

Combine the chiles, charred vegetables and all ingredients — except the water — into a blender and blend on high. Then add some — but not all — of the chile-steeping water bit by bit, blending until the desired consistency is achieved. The mole should be smooth but not watery. Adjust seasoning with salt and pass through a fine sieve. Serve underneath roasted root vegetables.  


Chipotle Squash Soup 
Serves 6
Recipe courtesy of chef Matthew Ravenscroft

2 cinnamon sticks
1 sprig rosemary
1 tbsp toasted allspice berries, optional
1 bunch sage - 1/2 kept whole and 1/2 finely chiffonade
1 chipotle chili: canned or dehydrated - if using dried, rehydrate in warm water
1 orange, zest only
1/4 lb butter
1/2 head fennel, sliced
1 onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
Salt
1/2 butternut squash, chopped
4 cups chicken stock or water
2 cups 35% cream

Garnish:
Crème fraîche
Shaved dark chocolate
Pine nuts


In a square of cheesecloth, place cinnamon, rosemary, allspice (if using), whole sage, chili and zest. Tie up tightly. In soup pot over medium heat, melt half the butter until it is done foaming. Add fennel, onions and garlic; season with salt. Add spice bag. Add squash and caramelize over medium-high heat. Pour in stock, bring to boil and reduce by a quarter. When squash is tender, remove sachet. Purée soup in blender, adding small amount of butter and cream until smooth. Adjust seasoning. Garnish with a spoonful of crème fraîche and shaved chocolate, then top with pine nuts and sage chiffonade.

















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