This small town in southern Umbria is often called the heart of Italy as it is the closest town to the geographic centre of Italy. Its origins date back to the Umbri who founded Nequinium, but was renamed Narnia by the Romans in 299 BC after the nearby river. It has also been rumoured that Irish author C. S. Lewis named his fictitious kingdom after the ancient Roman town he read about while studying Latin authors, namely his classic children's series The Chronicles of Narnia. The birthplace of Emperor Nervi in 32 AD, Narni was also a stopping point on the Via Flaminia from Rome to Rimini. In the 12th and 14th century Narni became part of the Papal State and developed an important school of painting and goldsmiths. Narnia's Ponte d'Augusto was one of the famous views of classical ruins in Italy, sketched and painted by travellers, artists and poets while on the Grand Tour in the 18th and 19th centuries, such as Turner, Corot and Byron.
Walking up into the historic centre of Narni, having taken a modern funicular up from the valley below
Loggia dei Priori sign above the arches of the old Town Hall
The wealth enjoyed by Narni in the early 14th century led to building a town hall and a palace which had a large loggia where the merchants met in case of bad weather
Original fresco in the loggia
Carved stone balcony of the 13th century Torre die Loggia
14th century fountain in Piazza dei Priori built in 1303
A happy Umbrian pigeon cooling off in the fountain
Old sign for the Italian Socialist Party
Medieval arched walkway leading to a private residence
Bronze sign outside Chiesa S. Franceso
14th century Church of San Francesco where St Francis is reputed to have stayed during his sojourn to Narnia in 1213
Entrance to the little Romanesque church of Santa Maria Impensole, built around 1175
Stone carved portico with classical motifs
One of two stone carved lions who protected the entrance
Fresco of Madonna col Bambino
Exterior of Cattedrale di San Giovenale, the Cattedrale di Narni was built in 1087
Mausoleum of the Bishops of Narni
Beautifully detailed ceiling of the Duomo
Fresco of Madonna col Bambino
Original 11th century stone and mosaic floor
Walking down Via Giuseppe Garibaldi to Piazza Garibaldi
The Duomo facing onto Piazza Garibaldi
An animated discussion by local Italians on the steps of the Duomo
The bellower and clock of the Duomo
The fountain in Piazza Garibaldi
A thirsty pigeon in Piazza Garibaldi
The Bridge at Narni, an 1826 painting by Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot
The ancient Umbrian town of Amelia, entirely surrounded by 7th century polygonal walls,
boasts spectacular views over the Tiber and Nera Rivers
The imposing Porta Romana dates back to the 2nd century, with much of it rebuilt in the 16th century
Climbing up Amelia's steep winding streets
Continuing our climb from via Garibaldi
Commemorative plaque to Garibaldi on the exterior of the old Post Office
The streets got steeper and steeper
Stopping to catch my breath for a moment, this property caught my attention
— amazingly it was for sale!
La Cattedrale di Santa Fermina at the top of Amelia built originally in 872, but was totally rebuilt in the Baroque style after a fire in 1629, but it's iconic pink façade was only done in the 19th century
The ornate Baroque interior of Santa Fermina
The opulence of the church seemed quite at odds with the Medieval character of Amelia
View over the Tiber Valley from the top of Amelia
Walking down from the Duomo through Amelia
14th century Palazzo Nacci with its interior courtyard and upper loggia
Typical cobbled stone and brick walkway in Amelia
A welcoming sign directing us to Il Baronetto,
the only restaurant that was open the day we visited Amelia
The vine covered trellis of Ristorante il Baronetta, set in the beautiful Renaissance garden of an old Palazzo
Ripe grapes hanging from the trellis vines
The Palazzo gardens and upper terrace offer spectacular views over Amelia and the Tiber Valley
The view from our garden table
Set under the trees in the garden, our table offered a reprieve from the hot sun
Il Baronetto paper menu logo
The menu was entirely handwritten featuring traditional Umbrian dishes
Our server going back into the Palazzo kitchens with our menu order
Our bottle of cold aqua frizzante
A cold bottle of Ichnusa Beer from Sardinia
A mysterious paper bag sealed with twine arrives — it was our napkin and cutlery!
A pretty basket of fresh crusty bread
Frantoio di Suatoni olive oil from Amelia, a blend of Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino and Rajo olives
Caprese Salad with tiny perfect mozzarella di bufaline and handpicked basil from the kitchen garden
Pollo Arrosto con patate e spinaci
Lasagna al Forno con ragù
As we were leaving il Baronetto, we tasted the sweet grapes hanging from the vine
With a long drive back to the villa, we left il Baronetto having enjoyed the beautiful garden setting and lovely lunch
Walking downhill through the Medieval streets of Amelia
9th century Porta Leone
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