Norcia: The Land of Truffles, Salumi & Cinghiale

 

Norcia is a small picturesque town nestled in the southeastern region of Umbria, completely enclosed by its 14th century walls and surrounded by the spectacular snow capped mountains of Monti Sibillini Park. With a great culinary history, this ancient town is famous for its lentils, prized black truffles, cheese and renowned brancaleone and dried salumis. The name salumi traces its roots back to 'sale' from its traditional salt curing process. Each type of salumi is known by the kind of meat and process by which it's cured, and in Norcia, because most of the meat come from wild boar, it's not surprising that heads of tusked cinghiale are hung in decoration outside many of the Norcerias throughout the town. Arriving for a visit since we were last in Norcia twelve years ago, much of the town and area homes were still being restored after the devastating earthquake that rocked the area in 2016. Fortunately the 13th century Basilica di San Benedetto was reopened for worship on October 31, 2025, exactly nine years after it was nearly destroyed by the powerful 6.6-magnitude earthquake on October 30, 2016. Thankfully, the shopkeepers were all open for business and the town was bustling on a beautiful sunny day on September 1st, the feast day of Umbria's Saint Terenzio.

Michael, owner of Brancaleone da Norcia, is where we bought thick slices 

of his hand carved Prosciutto di Norcia to bring home to our villa

Heads of Cinghale hang outside each of the Norcineria selling products unique to the area

14th-century bell tower of Norcia's Torre Civica bell tower is still being restored

after the area's devastating earthquake in 2016

Basilica di San Benedetto is now rebuilt after the devastating earthquake,

is built on the remains of the Saint's birthplace

The interior has a simple, single-nave design that blends elements 

from various eras after multiple seismic repairs

13th century Frescoed niche of Madonna and Child

Original Roman remnant of capital in the crypt's archaeological area, 

is associated with the imperial-era forum basilica

Smaller portion of an interior column from the imperial-era of the Basilica

Top portion of a capital with gargoyle-style features

Inside the crypt, particularly in the left apse — traditionally identified as the birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica — fragments of 14th-century frescoes are preserved

The masonry in the crypt preserves sections of 'opus reticulatum', an ancient Roman 

construction technique where small, diamond-shaped blocks of stone are set in a diagonal, 

net-like pattern around a concrete core

A Norcineria where we bought some local salsicce and cippolini

Hanging fresh cippolini

This historic stone gate, which serves as the primary southern entrance through the city's ancient 

14th-century defensive walls, the central archway on Porto Romana, is the village timekeeper

As the road ascends the slopes of the Sibillini Mountains towards Castellucio, 

there is a breathtaking view of Norcia in the the Valnerina

The ubiquitous Cinghale of Norcia are found throughout the hills 

Pasta alla Norcina

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Valeria Necchio

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

14 oz Italian pork sausages, crumbled

5 fl oz dry white wine

7 fl oz single cream

14 oz penne or rigatoni

1 3/4 oz Pecorino Romano, grated

fine sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil and the garlic in a large frying pan set over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking and the garlic is fragrant, add the crumbled sausage. Brown the sausage, stirring and scraping all the while with a wooden spatula to prevent it from sticking and burning. Next, remove the garlic and pour in the wine. Allow it to evaporate while carrying on scraping the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and finish cooking the sausage in its own juices for 10 minutes. Uncover, taste and season. Pour in the cream and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Reduce it for 3–4 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside. 

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to the pan with the sausage and cream sauce. Place the pan over a low flame and toss the pasta to evenly coat it with sauce – you can let the sauce down with a little pasta water if you see it is getting too thick. Top the plated pasta with a generous dusting of grated pecorino and some freshly ground black pepper before serving.