Pienza & Ristorante Terrazza della Val d'Orcia

 

Pliny the Elder praised it and Lorenzo the Magnificent was fond of it: pecorino di Pienza is a cheese that for centuries has embodied the taste of the land and traditions of one of Tuscany's most beautiful valleys, the Val d'Orcia. Located in the stunning hills between Montepulciano and Montalcino, Pienza is a charming Renaissance village that produces some of the best pecorino cheese in the country. It's also the first town we visit whenever we're in Umbria. Named after locally born Pope Pius II, Penza has been a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site since 1996. The architectural focal point is the square Piazza Pio II, surrounded by the Duomo and pope's family residence, Palazzo Piccolomini, and the beautiful gardens in the Palazzo's interior courtyard. However, the culinary spotlight is the town's Pecorino cheese together with the Pienza's friendly shop owners, quaint cobblestone streets, lovely restaurants and quiet unhurried lifestyle. With it's small size and charismatic centro storico, this beautiful little hilltop town captures the true essence of Tuscany.

One of the finest and most beautiful restaurants in Pienza was La Terrazza del Chiostro, located in a 15th-century ex-convent beside the Palazzo Piccolomini. Unfortunately it is now closed having recently been absorbed into a new hotel, Relais Il Chiostro di Pienza. Tutto cambia — everything changes. Fortunately we discovered Terrazza della Val d'Orcia, a lovely restaurant with fine cuisine and magnificent views of the Tuscan Val d'Orcia, a breathtaking landscape celebrated by the Sienese School which flourished during the Renaissance. As we were enjoying a lovely glass of Prosecco on the outdoor terrace, ominous black clouds were building signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm. Grabbing our bubbley, we darted inside and nestled in the restaurant's beautiful dining room to enjoy our lunch. Tutto è andato bene. 

Piazza Pio II with town clock

We strolled along the ancient town walls on Via del Casello 

with views of the spectacular Val d'Orcia

Bar il Casello is well known for its casual outdoor dining on the historic town wall

with fabulous views over the Val d'Orcia

The Duomo di Pienza, which dominates the centre of the piazza, 

has a facade that is one of the earliest designed in the Renaissance manner

Built between 1459 and 1462 by order of Pope Pius II, born Enea Silvio Piccolomini,

the Gothic interior features tall windows that flood the interior with natural light

The columns and piers feature finely carved, decorated capitals that support the soaring arcade arches, combining Gothic verticality with classicizing Renaissance details

Candles before Matteo di Giovanni's 'Madonna con S. Caterina, S. Matteo, 

S. Bartolomeo and S.Lucia'

Terrazza della Val d'Orcia with our table overlooking the magnificent Tuscan landscape

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut

The perfect beginning to any lunch

An elegant Prosecco that tickles the tastebuds

A basket of warm homemade bread

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano shines as the white queen in a land of Red Kings

Balanced, dry and highly distinctive, the 'White Queen' is outstanding

and most definitely my favourite Italian white wine  

With ominous skies building, signalling the rapid onset of a classic Tuscan rain storm,

we dashed inside - with my White Queen of course

The interior of Terrazza della Val d'Orcia was warm, elegant and simply lovely

With fresh linen napkins and sparkling glasses, 

we were happy to be inside from 'il pioggia battente'

Fiore do Carciofi al forno su spuma di Pecorino di Pienza, crumble doi mandorle,

olio e prezzemolo ed erbette stagionali

'Quasi un Camambert' - Pecorino a crosta fiorita al forno con miele di acacia biologico,

pepe verde, lampone, gherigli di noce e pane croccante

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2022

The highest expression of this territory, this wine smells like Montepulciano,

"full bodied, strongly powerful and bombastic" aka yummy

Guanchetta di Cinghiale cotta a bassa temperatura, fondente di patate,

verdure artiginale in agrodolce ed il 'bagnate verde' revisionato alla maniera Toscana

Filetto di Chianina IGP alla griglia mediamente raro, accompagnato il nostro burro

agli aromi della Val D'Orcia, il piccolo cilindro di patate e aspergi ed il nostro olive evo al rosmarino

Spinaci saltati in padella al burro de misel

Le nostre patate al forno con il sale aromatico della Val D'Orcia

Tartelletta composta da due dischi di friabile biscotto sablè, 

intervallati con crema pasticcera e guarniti da un bouquet di frutta fresca

Macchiato

Marusca e Maria Prodotti Tipici della Toscana in Pienza

Wheels of pungent Pienza pecorino which is very challenging to resist 

Arte & Preziosi is a special boutique and jewelry workshop in Pienza, founded and run by jewelry designer Anna Porcu along with her mother Beatrice and collaborator Luciana

Palazzo Maisaini is an historic 13th-century estate located in the heart of the Val d'Orcia 

Famous worldwide for its breathtaking winding gravel driveway lined with towering Italian cypress trees, it's one of the most photographed and iconic postcard views of the Tuscan countryside

The medieval castle operates as a winery, farm, and agritourism estate where guests can stay, sample local wines, take cooking classes or stop to photograph the classic cypress-lined path

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