Bamberg: A Medieval Gem in the Heart of Bavaria

 

If there’s one historical site that sets Bamberg apart from other cities in Germany, it’s the Rathaus, or Town Hall. With its colorful murals, timber-framed facades, and unique location right in the middle of the Regnitz River, it’s easy to see why it’s considered the most beautiful building in Bamberg. With cobblestone lanes, half-timbered houses, and ancient breweries tucked into centuries-old buildings, Bamberg is like stepping into a storybook. 

One of the best-preserved medieval towns in Germany and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bamburg is a stunning example of a well-preserved medieval city known for its intact timber-framed houses, and unique architecture such as the Altes Rathaus on an island on the picturesque setting on the River Regnitz, and the "Little Venice" district. Founded by Emperor Henry II in 1007 as a bishopric, it became a significant religious and cultural hub, influencing Central Europe with its blend of Romanesque and Baroque styles, and remains famous for its churches, breweries, and picturesque setting on the River Regnitz. 

The city’s origins date back to the 9th century, with its name derived from the nearby Babenberch castle. Bamberg rose to prominence in 1007 when Emperor Henry II established it as a bishopric, aiming to strengthen Christianity in the region east of Bamberg. Under his patronage, the iconic Bamberg Cathedral was built, which remains a centerpiece of the city’s skyline and spiritual life. The cathedral, completed in the 13th century after two earlier versions were destroyed by fire, houses significant artworks like the mysterious Bamberg Horseman statue and the tomb of Emperor Henry II and his wife Kunigunde, both canonized saints.

The beautiful Christmas window of Käthe Wohfahrt in Bamberg

As with many German shops, beautiful hand crafted signs hang ornate by wrought iron brackets

One of Bamberg's many popular brewpubs

One of Bamberg's charming cobblestone residential streets

The picturesque courtyard of the Bamberg Historic Museum

View from the courtyard to the Neuen Residenz, the former prince-bishop's residence in Bamberg

Originally created by Balthasar Neumann in the first half of the 18th-century,

The Rose Garden at the Neuen Residenz had a few roses still in November

The rose was actually this vibrant deep pink, which was astounding in mid November

St. Jakob's Church, built in the 11th-12th centuries, is known for its unique blend of Romanesque structure and Baroque facade, serving pilgrims on the Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostela

13th-century coat of arms above the main portal of the church is notable as one of the earliest examples of the Bamberg "Stadtritter" (city knight) blazon, showcasing the city's heraldry

A maple leaf on the cobblestone walkway outside the church was

a serendipitous discovery as Canadians touring Bamberg

Saint Henry II, the Holy Roman Emperor, who founded the Bamberg Cathedral and city

Bamberg Cathedral, officially known as the Cathedral Church of St. Peter and St. George,

 is the most prominent and largest church in the city

The clock almost striking 1pm, which is when the Cathedral opens after the Sunday service

The cathedral was founded in 1002 by King (later Emperor) Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunde, 

who are both buried there, are the only canonized imperial couple in the Holy Roman Empire

The famous and equally mysterious early Gothic equestrian statue known as the Bamberg Horseman

The cathedral is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Town of Bamberg," 

recognized for its historical and architectural importance 

Completed in the 13th century, the two massive towers give the cathedral the largest facade 

of any church in the world

Walking down the hill from the Church on our way to Shenkerla Smoked Beer Brewery

 In the middle of the old part of Bamberg directly beneath the mighty cathedral, 

is the historic smoked beer brewery Schlenkerla, a Bamberg classic, serving beer from 1536

The small smoked beer menu at Schlenkerla

The original smoked beer - Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier - was hauntingly delicious

Bamberg is famous for its charming boats on the River Regnitz, especially in the "Little Venice" 

(Klein Venedig) area, where colourful old fishermen's houses line the water

Bamberg's Little Venice

Cobblestone walking paths traverse Little Venice

Bamburg's Love Lock Bridge

Bamberg's famous Bridge Tower and adjacent Altes Rathaus is a unique medieval building built on an island in the Regnitz River, connected by bridges, with Baroque/Rococo elements, make it an iconic symbol of Bamberg's well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage old town

Whimsical, vibrant frescoes on the Rococo facade of the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)

by Johann Anwander (1755), featuring allegorical figures and seasons

Built on a man-made island because the bishop wouldn't give the Bamburg citizens land, 

creates a dramatic, unique setting for the iconic Altes Rathaus

The fast flowing Regnitz flows through Bamberg with its well-preserved half-timbered houses

One of Bamberg's many charming hand painted signs mounted using wrought iron

Great hanging sign for a popular local bakery with a wolf carrying a pretzel

I saw this unique 'Press for Champagne' in a local shop in Bamburg,

but the shop was closed or I would have bought it!

Brasserie Quarré at the Adlon & Berlin Staatsoper

A touch of Paris at the Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin, and overlooking the Brandenburg Gate, is Brasserie Quarré, where we dined before heading to the Staatsoper for the evening performance of Dido and Aeneas. The menu at Brasserie Quarré offered a selection of German-French classics as well as winter highlights that combined culinary finesse with contemporary lightness, inspired by the brasserie tradition and reinterpreted for the capital. A delicious beginning to a sumptuous evening of fine dining and extraordinary opera in one of the world's leading opera houses.

Glass of Tattinger Brut Réserve Champagne

The elegant interior of Brasserie Quarré

Champagne bucket with crazy purple lighting

The delicious French-inspired menu of Brasserie Quarré

Bisque de Homard: Lobster soup with fennel and rice chip

Burrata de la Maison with baked Hokkaido pumpkin, chestnut purée and parsnips

Beelitz corn-fed poulard breast with porcini mushroom waffle, glazed carrost, 

King oyster mushrooms and plum

Filet de Saumon with roasted cauliflower, sweet potato, grapefruit and leek beurre blanc

Crème Brûlée with Vanilla, shortcrust pastry, mandarin sorbet, kumquats and lemon balm

Arriving at the Berlin Staatsoper for the evenings performance of did and Aeneas by Henry Purcell, we were overwhelmed with the production. The setting is Carthage, in ancient times: the hero Aeneas flees from burning Troy and arrives in North Africa via the Mediterranean Sea with his fleet of ships, where he meets the beautiful queen Dido. They are lovestruck – and yet fail to bond because of fate’s intervention. Aeneas continues on his journey to form a new kingdom in Italy, while the abandoned Dido is left no alternative but to stay. 

Human passions are candidly unveiled – both their joys and excitements as well as their hardships and worries, all the way to deepest despair at the inexorability of divine will. Dido’s famous lament, with which she ends her life, and the opera draws to a close, and where an entire world is evoked in a few words, demonstrates Purcell’s extraordinary expressiveness. But his skill, too, in writing rhythmically concise dance movements and melodic choruses sealed the composer’s reputation among his contemporaries and ensured the admiration of a truly exceptional composer for posterity. Song, performance and dance combine to create this very special form of opera.

Berlin Staatsoper exterior at night 

Arriving for Dido and Aeneas by Henry Purcell at the Staatsoper

The ornate ceiling of the Staatsoper with suspended chandelier

2 actors watching the audience before the opera begins 

with a long pool just below them

The extraordinary start of Dido and Aeneas with actors diving into the pool

and swimming together in a beautiful fluid dance

The opera shift to a modern interpretation of the debauchery of Carthage 

Dido reaching for Aeneas, his one true love, 

whom he never manages to touch or save

Walking past the Brandenburg Gate on our way back to the Adlon after the opera

www.staatsoper-berlin.de/en/veranstaltungen/dido-aeneas