Hidden down a narrow lane that runs along Kiyamachi-dori, just west of the Kamogawa River, Tosuiro Kiyamachi is a well-kept secret among Kyoto’s vegetarian and bean curd loving cognoscenti. Located in a traditional wooden merchant house or 'machiya' from the Taisho era, Tosuiro is tricky to find but easily identified by the large white chochin paper lantern outside its entrance. Tosuiro specializes in oboro-dofu, tofu made with 100% local soybeans. "Tofu originally came from China," Tousuiro manager Nagashi Yoshida explains. "It was first brought to Nara, which was then the capital of Japan. There were a lot of priests there, so it became associated with Buddhism. When the capital moved to Kyoto, the priests came, too, and brought tofu culture with them." The secret to the delicate taste and the creamy texture of Tosuiro’s oboro-dofu lies in the ultra pristine Kyoto water and the high quality soy beans, and it's a dish that's made them famous for being a tofu-lovers paradise, perfected by Buddhist vegetarian monks over the centuries.
Arriving for Tousuiro's celebrated Tofu-Kaiseki, we sat at a low Japanese-style horigotatsu table with cushion seating on traditional tatami floor mats, and chose the highly recommended Takasegawa menu which consisted of a flight of fabulous dishes, each artfully presented. Beginning with a lovely handmade pitcher of cold sake, our kaiseki-style tofu menu began with a beautiful plate of zensai, Japanese amuse-bouches, followed by Tousuiro's famous cold oboro-dofu served in a lovely copper bowl on a bed of crushed ice, which was absolutely divine with the silky creaminess of a loose custard. The next course was yuba (tofu skin), a specialty of Kyoto. Yuba is made from the skin that forms on the surface of soy milk when boiling in an open pan. This skin is then skimmed off with a bamboo stick and rolled to be eaten fresh, which is considered a delicacy and generally served by itself, garnished with yuzu citrus juice or soy sauce. We then followed with a delicious lily bud, tofu and mushroom clear soup with chrysanthemum blossoms; skewered grilled tofu with miso paste, autumn salmon and ricemalt; Rikyu-style simmered Japanese gluten cake with turnip and green beans in a sesame sauce; mixed tempura, then rice with Spanish mackerel, lotus root and yuba topped with tea, finishing with a refreshing homemade pear and soy milk sherbet. Kyoto is famous for its tofu, its sublime kaiseki cuisine and its Buddhist vegetarian fare, but Tousuiro elevates tofu cuisine to an art form.
Tousuiro's beautiful sake pitcher handmade by a local artist,
with Tamanohikari Junmai Ginjo Sake brewed since 1673
The sake cups were also handmade and full of charm
The first course of the Takasegawa Kaiseki dinner: Saury Sushi,
Crab and Yam Tofu, Purple Yam Tofu topped with sesame seeds, Mixed Scallop, Cod Roe and Sea Urchin in a Cup, and egg and grated tofu folded into the shape of a Gingko Leaf
Cold oboro-dofu served in a copper bowl over ice
Oboro-dofu made tofu made with 100% local soybeans and served in a wooden tofu barrel
has the silken creaminess of a custard
Sashimi of freshly dipped Tofu Skin (yuba) garnished with radish
Shoyu sauce for the yuba
Black lacquerware soup bowl with gold rice stalk motif
Lily Bud, Tofu and Mushroom Soup with Chrysanthemum Blossoms
Grilled Tofu Skewer with miso paste, Autumn Salmon and Ricemalt (kome koi)
Lovely white ceramic bowl with green leaf and berry motif
Rikyu-style simmered Japanese clover, gingko and chestnut gluten cake,
with turnip and green beans in a special sesame sauce
Shiitake Mushroom, Red Pepper, Shishito Pepper and Autumn Eggplant Tempura
Himalayan pink rock salt for dipping the tempura
Sencha Tea
Teapot of Hot Sencha Tea
Tsukemono of pickled daikon, shibazuke and mustard leaves
Black and red lacquerware soup bowl
Rice with Spanish Mackerel, Lotus Root and Tofu Skin topped with Tea
Pear and Soy Milk Sherbert
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