Le Sélect Bistro: Classic French Bistro Cuisine

A well-loved Toronto institution for over 50 years, Le Sélect Bistro built its reputation on well-executed bistro classics with longtime chef Alfred Ponzu (who is now executive Chef of the historic Royal Hotel in Picton). After a two-year hiatus, the beloved bistro finally reopened in June 2022, surmounting major challenges in the process, including the impact of the pandemic coupled with property tax hikes threatened to shutter it for good. Originally founded by extraordinary restaurateurs and partners Jean-Jacques Quinsac and Frederic Geisweiller who opened Le Sélect in 1977, after spending three decades on Queen West before moving to 432 Wellington just went to Spadina, Le Sélect Bistro reopened with new owners Allied Properties along with Scale Hospitality Group and restaurateur David Aisenstat (CEO of Keg Restaurants), who each vowed to maintain the legacy and heritage of Toronto's beloved restaurant. 

Little has changed to the traditional French Bistro under the new management with new executive chef Ted Corrado and head chef Zachary Barnes whose goals were to pay homage to the restaurant’s 45-year legacy, including its classic approach to French cuisine. "We honestly wanted to keep it as true to Le Sélect as possible," says Corrado, with a reliable rotation of French classics including duck confit, moules-frites, cassoulet and tarte tatin. 

Arriving for dinner with good friends on a busy Friday night, we were seated at a lovely table with a great view overlooking the restaurant with its burgundy leather studded banquettes and classic zinc bar. Aside from a few pieces of artwork, the new team has maintained the restaurants romantic aesthetic. Looking over Corrado's new menu, we began with a bottle of Charles Père et Fille Rouge Hautes-Cotes de Beaune and shared a selection of four delicious hors d'oeuvres including Tartare de Boeuf with truffle aioli, Escargots Bourguignons, Tarte aux Oignons et Chèvre with puff pastry, caramelized onion, grapes and figs, and Coquilles-St-Jacques with seared scallops, pommes Duchesse and herb butter. Our entrées featured a selection of the Bistro's classics — Croque Madame with ham, gruyère cheese and béchamel, Steak Frites with café de Paris butter, and delicious Poulet Rôti with truffle honey, herbes de provence and chicken jus. Having dined at Le Sélect Bistro back in it's heyday on Queen Street West where baskets full of bread with a rope-and-pulley system hung over each table, it's nice to know the restaurant is still around and it's legacy continues.

The Parisian-inspired decor of the new Le Sélect Bistro on Wellington St. West

Le Sélect Bistro menu of French classics

Our server with 2022 Charles Père et Fille Rouge Hautes-Cotes de Beaune

Tartare de Boeuf with truffle aioli, cornichons, chives, shallot, egg yolk and 

dijon mustard served with toasted baguette

Escargots Bourguignons with garlic, butter, shallots, lemon, parsley crumb and puff pastry

Tarte aux Oignons et Chèvre with puff pastry, caramelized onion, grapes and figs

Coquilles-St-Jacques with seared scallops, pommes Duchese, herb butter, and herb crumb

Le Select Croque Madame with ham, gruyère cheese and béchamel 

sandwiched between lightly crisp slices of bread and topped with a sunny-side-up egg

Poulet Rôti with truffle honey, herbes de provence and chicken jus

Silky smooth Pommes Purée with chives

Steak Frites with Café du Paris butter

www.leselectbistro.com

Autumn Scallops

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of chef Alfred Ponzu, chef of Le Sélect for over 10 years

Cauliflower Purée:

1 head cauliflower, cut into three-inch pieces

2 small shallots, julienned

1 tsp minced garlic

1/4 cup white wine

2 tbsp unsalted butter

Kosher salt, to taste

Autumn Vegetables:

4 watermelon radish

1 piece butternut squash

20 brussels sprouts

Extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt, to taste

Scallops and Beurre Noisette:

10 to 20 scallops

Kosher Salt to taste

1 small shallot brunoised (for beurre noisette)

1 lemon

Extra virgin olive oil

Make Cauliflower Purée: Set the oven to 450°F. Line baking tray with parchment paper. Toss cauliflower in olive oil on tray and roast for 15 minutes until golden brown and beginning to soften. Heat olive oil in medium saucepan. Cook shallots and garlic until tender. Add white wine and roasted cauliflower and continue cooking until soft. Let cool slightly. Purée the cauliflower mixture in blender, adding butter. Season with salt to taste.

Make Autumn Veg: Reduce oven to 375°F. Line three roasting pans with parchment paper. Depending on size, cut each watermelon radish into 4 to 6 wedges. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Peel squash, cut in half and remove seeds. Cut each half into 3″ x 1″ pieces. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Cut brussels sprouts in half and remove any waxy outer leaves. Coat in olive oil and place on roasting tray with parchment paper. Roast vegetables separately. Times will vary per pan, but they should take between 15 to 25 minutes until cooked through and golden brown. Cooking vegetables separately ensures control of separate roasting times. Remove vegetables from oven and add salt to taste.

Make Scallops and Beurre Noisette: Heat olive oil in nonstick or cast-iron pan on high. Season scallops with salt on both sides. Place scallop presentation side down and away from you in pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes on first side until golden brown. Flip scallop and add knob of butter to pan for last minute of cooking. Watch timing closely: scallops taste best medium rare; if cooked too much they become rubbery.

Transfer scallops to plate lined with paper towel and let drain. Drain and wipe pan and return to medium-high heat. Add shallots to pan and sauté quickly until translucent. Add rest of the butter and continue cooking until butter begins to brown and smell nutty. Remove from heat and add lemon juice to stop cooking. Stir vigorously as butter will begin to foam and could boil over. Voila! Beurre Noisette. Add salt and lemon to taste, then pour beurre noisette into warm container.

Assemble and Serve: Spoon two tablespoons of hot cauliflower puree on four plates, creating bed for vegetables. Arrange hot vegetables on top of bed of cauliflower purée, alternating between brussels sprouts, watermelon radish and squash. Arrange four warm scallops on purée and sauce beurre noisette around plate, reserving shallots for tops of scallops. Serve and enjoy!

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio: Easy and Delicious

 

Five Simple ingredients. One great supper. Aglio e Olio many claim, is the simplest pasta sauce in the entire Italian culinary canon. You don't even need cheese — in fact, some would argue cheese isn't a welcome addition. If you have spaghetti, garlic, salt, and oil, you can make this pasta right now. But as with all simple dishes, using the highest-quality ingredients is crucial to achieving the best flavour, and this late-night Roman staple is astonishingly full-flavoured. 

Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil & Crushed Red Chilis 
Serves 4

1 lb spaghetti, such as Mancini Pastificio Agricolo
4 tbsp of olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and slivered
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1 tsp hot chili flakes
1 cup coarsely grated pecorino, for garnish
1/2 cup chopped parsley

In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta until al dente. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium high. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chiles and parsley and cook another minute. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking water, and add to the skillet with the other ingredients and toss well to combine. Serve in warmed pasta bowls and garnish with lots of grated pecorino.  

La Plume: French-Inspired Brasserie at The Well

With Southern French-inspired flair, La Plume is a snazzy new neighbourhood brasserie and speakeasy at The Well, featuring a selection of handcrafted cocktails, refreshing spritzes and selection of fine wines, served at half price during their popular daily happy hour. Opened just 2 months ago by Oliver & Bonacini, La Plume's interior design pays homage to French architecture, with its 14-foot high ceilings adorned with stacked classic moulding and three-tiered chandeliers. The beautiful bar on the first floor of La Plume is detailed with a custom birdcage-inspired back bar and custom designed mural, where we arrived for happy hour with good friends, beautifully taken care of by Everett, our charming bartender.

O&B Executive Chef John Horne with Chef de Cuisine Navinder Saini crafted La Plume's menu inspired by time spent cooking in the south of France during the early days of Horne's culinary career. "It was such a great experience at that point in my life, especially for my cooking," he says. "It’s still close to my heart." Described as a "love letter to southern France," the main floor restaurant features a tartare bar, a whole bird rotisserie program and several styles of steak frites. The more upscale dining space on the 2nd floor features Parisian Brasserie-inspired black and white checkerboard flooring, whimsical wallpaper, large open kitchen, rustic brass tables, and beautiful greenery-filled terrace overlooking Wellington Street. On the same floor is a moody boudoir-inspired speakeasy dubbed Bonne Nuit, a secret hideaway with subtle bird motifs accents throughout the space, a nod to the restaurant's name, which translates to "feather" in English. Next time, we will definitely stay for dinner and begin with snazzy cocktail upstairs. Magnifique!

La Plume's stylish French-inspired bar with marble detailing and oxblood leather seating

La Plume bartenders concocting creative cocktails during the daily Happy Hour

Everett's La Plume "Smoked" Old Fashioned with Jim Beam bourbon, angostura bitters, 

burnt orange bitters and blackberry

Everett presenting a 2022 Domaine La Grande Bauquière Rosé from Provence

French Onion Beef Burger Slider with gruyère cheese, dijon and rosemary aïoli, 

and caramelized onion

Moody boudoir-inspired speakeasy dubbed Bonne Nuit at La Plume,

 is open Thursday to Saturday after 6 pm

Located in the heart of Toronto’s west end, between Front, Spadina, and Wellington, 

The Well is one of the city's newest multi-use developments, injecting some 

European-influenced pedestrian-friendly spaces to the downtown core

www.laplumebrasserie.com

French Onion Soup

Serves 4-6

Recipe courtesy of chef John Horne

Chef John Horne's French onion soup takes a minimum of 48 hours to make, with the onions slow-cooked for maximum flavour. Red wine, brandy, roasted chicken broth and a blend of Gruyère, Emmental and for a Canadian twist, cheese curds complete this indulgent classic.

1/2 lb butter 

10 large onions, peeled, cored and thinly sliced with the grain 

Salt and pepper to taste 

1 tsp tomato paste 

1 cup red wine 

1 cup cognac or brandy 

1 sachet or bundle of thyme, rosemary, black peppercorns and bay leaves 

13 cups dark chicken stock 

12-18 slices of baguette, toasted - enough to cover your bowl 

Gruyère, Emmenthal and local cheese curds  

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add the onions, and stir and season generously with salt and pepper. Lower heat and continue cooking, stirring regularly until the onions completely caramelize. When the onions have caramelized, stir in the tomato paste and cook for at least 30 more minutes. Pour in the red wine and cognac or brandy and toss in the sachet. Reduce mixture to one third. Add the stock and allow to simmer for one hour. Remove from heat, allow to cool and chill overnight.

 

To serve, reheat the soup gently, add a splash of brandy, taste and adjust seasonings. Serve in oven-proof bowls. Top each serving with slices of toasted baguettes and cheese mixture. Place under broiler until cheese is melted and browned. Serve immediately.

 

Diwan at the Aga Khan Museum: Persian Cuisine

 

North America’s first museum dedicated to Islamic art and culture, The Aga Khan Museum offers many visitors a window into worlds unknown or unfamiliar: the artistic, intellectual, and scientific contributions of Muslim civilizations to world heritage across the centuries. Created as a pillar for global pluralism, the Museum’s permanent collection of more than 1,000 artefacts includes masterpieces that reflect a broad range of artistic styles and materials, including portraits, textiles, miniatures, manuscripts, ceramics, tiles, medical texts, books and musical instruments that represent more than ten centuries of human history from a geographic area stretching from Spain, Sicily, Africa, the Balkans, Central Asia, China, India, and Southeast Asia.

Tucked away on a bright sunny corner of the museum's main floor is Diwan, which means 'spiritual room', the museum's elegant and refined restaurant, handsomely decorated with original panels from an 18th-century Damascus Mosque bought at auction in London by the Aga Khan. Few museums offer as beautiful a dining space as the one at the Aga Khan Museum, a culinary destination in its own right, showcasing Chef McEwan and executive chef Shen Ousmand’s innovative approaches to the great cuisines of Turkey, Iran, North Africa, Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent that stand up to the museum's collections, with their broad symphony of summer flavours. 

Mezes include Sweet Onion Bhaji, Lamb or Vegetable Samosas, and Warm Halloumi with Vine Leaves, grape molasses, pine nuts, zaatar and pomegranate seeds. Tempting entrées include Moroccan Spiced Lamb Shank, Green Harissa Shrimp Kebab with Persian Rice, Dill Labneh and Shirazi Salad, and outstanding Palak Paneer with spinach purée, crispy onion, pomegranate seeds, fresh dill and edible silver leaf with garlic naan. They even serve a Diwan Lamb Burger that's served with chipotle aioli, onion marmalade, whipped feta cheese and choice of Zaatar Frites or Sabzi Salad. With two prix fixe menus and an a la carte menu from which to choose, and a fine cocktail and wine list, Diwan is open for lunch every day but Monday, and dinner Friday and Saturdays during the summer.

Exterior of the ultra-modern Aga Khan Museum Toronto

The Bellerive Room at the Aga Khan features beautiful ceramic objects

that date from the early Islamic periods through to the 17th-century

12th-century Iranian earthenware Haft-Sin dish with lustre painting 

11th-century Egyptian Bowl with Hare

King Solomon and his Court, India c.1600 

15th-century Pharmacy Jars from Syria

15th-century Tile Panel from Syria

Spanish Manuscript of the Kitab al-Jaghrafyia (Book of Geography)

followed by one of the earliest versions of the famous Thousand and One Nights, 

thought to have been adapted from a Persian source c 1235

The Shahnameh c.935, The Book of Kings, is a Persian epic of Kings and Heroes from

mythical prehistory, and is one of the longest epics ever composed 

One of the modern exhibition rooms in the Aga Khan Museum

that feature priceless treasures from Prince Shah Karim al-Husseini, Aga Khan IV

11th-century illustration of Mountain Goat from Iran

Sulawesi Qur’an with elaborate calligraphy and illustrations ca.1804

17th-century Persian dish inspired by Chinese blue and white Ming Dynasty motifs

Qu'ran manuscript from Iran c.1550 with ink, opaque watercolour and gold on paper

Indian 17th-century Mother-of-Pearl Shell, polished and incised,

features Qu'ranic verses about forgiveness and protection

The elegant interior of Diwan Restaurant at the Aga Khan Museum is known  

for the sensational quality of the cuisine and warm professionalism of the servers

A jewel box of a restaurant with an original ceiling medallion and wall panels from 

an 18th-century Damascus Mosque bought at auction in London by the Aga Khan

Executive Chef Shen Ousmand of Diwan

(photo by Jiali Ou)

Diwan's outstanding summer menu

Thyme Lemonade

Onion Bhaji with tamarind chutney

Finely sliced onion smothered in a simple, 

fragrantly spiced batter and fried to crispy perfection - Yum

Beef Flatbread with spiced ground beef, olives, mozzarella cheese, 

pepperoncini, shallots, garlic and halloumi cheese with a tomato dipping sauce

Palak Paneer with spinach purée, crispy onion, and garnished with pomegranate seeds

fresh dill and edible silver leaf with garlic naan - outstandingly delicious

Across the park from the Aga Khan Museum is the Ismaili Centre

designed by Charles Correa and formal gardens by Vladimir Djurovic

diwan.agakhanmuseum.org

Fatteh Baba Ghanouj

Serves 8-10

Recipe courtesy of chef Shen Ousmand, Diwan

Dukkha:

1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp chopped walnuts

1/4 cup slivered almonds

3 tbsp shelled pistachios

1/4 cup sesame seeds

1 tbsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp cumin seeds

1 tsp black pepper

1/2 tsp salt

Baba Ghanouj:

2 large eggplants

1/4 cup tahini

1 lemon, juiced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 tsp ground cumin

Kosher salt, to taste

2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Olive oil for garnish

Fatteh:

1 cup plain Greek yogurt

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped plus more for garnish

2 cups canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1/4 cup harissa sauce

Hot chili powder or cayenne, to taste

Kosher salt and pepper, to taste

Canola oil or vegetable oil for frying

4 whole thick pitas or naan, sliced into quarters

4 whole the Arabic pitas, sliced into eighths

Sumac and zaatar, to taste

For the dukkah: in a skillet over medium heat, toast walnuts, almonds and pistachios until fragrant and slightly golden. Let cool for 5 minutes, then place toasted nuts in a food processor or spice grinder and pulse until it achieves a texture similar to bread crumbs. Store in an airtight container. (Makes 1 cup)

For the Fatteh: In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt and chopped mint, then set aside. In another mixing bowl, toss together the chickpeas and harissa sauce. Add chili pepper or cayenne for added heat. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside. In a heavy bottomed pot or deep skillet over medium-high heat, add enough oil to reach  and least 1/2-inch deep. In small batches, fry pita slices until crispy and golden brown, about 5-10 seconds per side. Remove from the oil and place of plate lined with paper towel. Repeat with remaining pitas. In a large mixing bowl, toss the fried pitas with sumac, zaatar, salt and pepper until lightly coated, then set aside.

For the Baba Ghanouj: Adjust oven rack to central position and turn on the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Poke the eggplants all around with a fork to allow steam to escape while roasting, then broil, turning occasionally for 50-60 minutes, until the eggplants have become very soft all over and charred on all sides. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes, or until cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile, in a medium sized mixing bowl, whisk together tahini, lemon juice, garlic, cumin and salt, then set aside. Slice the cooled eggplants in half lengthwise, and let any excess liquid drain out. Using a spoon, scoop out the flesh and transfer to the bowl with the tahini mixture. Discard the skins and excess liquid. Mash the eggplant together with the tahini mixture until a smooth but slightly chunky texture is achieved. Allow to cool to room temperature before stirring in the parsley  and garnishing with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Assemble the dish by first arranging slices of grilled pita in an even layer in a large serving platter, then place dollops of Baba Ghanouj and mint yogurt around the pitas. Sprinkle chickpeas on top. Garnish liberally  with dukkah, chopped parsley and more mint and serve immediately.