Aburi Hana: Michelin Star Kyō-Kaiseki in Yorkville

Toronto’s Michelin award-winning Aburi Hana launched its Early Summer Kyō-Kaiseki 12-course set menu by executive chef Ryusuke Nakagawa who presents a modern take on the history-steeped Kyō-Kaiseki menu. Trained by master chefs, Nakagawa worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant and for the Emperor of Japan before being poached by the ABURI group to helm their prize kitchen. His cuisine is personal and intricate, weaving multiple techniques and colours into every dish. Starting with a foundation of the finest Japanese ingredients from the land and sea, he incorporates local produce to reflect the changing seasons. Using both modern and ancient gastronomy techniques, Chef Nakagawa aims to introduce new flavours and textures to each guest.

Amy Lee leads the restaurant's Sake Program with sublime signature sake and wine pairings, and executive pastry chef Aiko Uchigoshi creates magic with her beautifully created desserts. Every three months, the chef creates an entirely new Kyō-Kaiseki menu of 12-14 courses, each following the layout of a traditional kaiseki meal. Menus harness the bounty of the land and the beauty of the season, with nothing, except Nakagawa's signature Maguro Flower, ever repeated.

Celebrating my July birthday, my husband surprised me with the special Kyō-Kaiseki at Aburi Hana, keeping it a secret for weeks. Seated at the chef's counter overlooking Nakagawa' kitchen, we were treated to an unforgettable evening. The menu consisted of 14 dishes celebrating the beauty of early summer while "coaxing its covert flavours to the fore". Crafted from a host of ingredients, both imported from Japan and sourced closer to home, each course celebrated that exclusive space between cuisine and art. Served on handmade Arita pottery originating in Japan in the 17th-century, the dishes provided a stunning historic backdrop to chef Nakagawa's inspired ideas, for a truly unique and memorable evening, crowned with a special floral dessert presented for my birthday.

Michelin Star Chef Ryusuke Nakagawa

Chef's Counter seats are situated side-by-side for the best view of the kitchen,

which is were we were seated for my birthday dinner at Aburi Hana

Masumi Origami Sparking Jumai Ginjo Sake from Nagano

Bottle-fermented Masumi Sparkling Sake combines fine bubbles and crisp acidity 

with the mild sweetness and deep umami of sake

Hirame Ryuhimaki, made with Japanese Flounder from Hokkaido which is aged for 10 days 

in an ice-bath, with deep-fried Japanese freshwater crab from Saga, pickled ginger, fresh chives and cucumber, and instead of nori, it's rolled with Ryuhi Kombu

Yamagata Masamune 'Akaiwa Omachi' Kimoto Junmai 1898 Sake made in Yamagata

A traditional method of sake brewing where no lactic acid is introduced into the fermentation process in order to cultivate yeast, allows this sake to be fuller, more complex and richer flavoured 

Lobster Chawanmushi, a traditional Japanese savoury egg custard dish enjoyed for its delicate 

and silky texture, accompanied with Yakinasu Soup featured with grilled Ontario eggplant blended with Ichiban Dashi, and elegantly finished with East Coast caviar nestled in the centre of Janome Kyuri, 

a boiled cucumber cut into the shape of a snake’s eye

Our 3rd Sake, a 2022 Shichihonyari Kokoku Yamaha Junmai from Shiga

This sake is paired to balance the flavours of the Ō-toro and Caviar Sushi Monaka

Best enjoyed as a canapé, the Shinogi course is a luxurious Ō-toro and Caviar Sushi Monaka

paired with Nori, Shari, Smoked Pickled Daikon, and Egg Yolk and Vinegar sauce, all on top of a Mochi Rice Cracker, garnished with shio flower, chrysanthemum, and smoked pickled daikon from Niigata

The fourth course is Tachiuo Warayaki, which translates to "swordfish" in Japanese, 

one side is marinated in Shio Koji, while the inside remains rare and is prepared with a white sesame sauce and plated with manganji togarashi sweet peppers from Japan, vinegar-marinated Okinawan spinach, and finished with sudachi, a Japanese citrus fruit

Ryusei 'Naomi no Karachi' Kimono Junmai from Hiroshima sake paired with the duck

A full flavoured and flowery sake

2022 Ageginolaza & Leunda Cuvée Las Santas red wine from Navarra in Spain

is paired with the duck

A smooth and juicy red 

The Fifth course is Quebec Duck Aka-Miso Yaki features duck and foie gras

served with kabocha squash, a red miso sauce and garnished with a mango kimi karashi sauce, 

made of frozen egg yolk, Karashi sauce, white vinegar, and Japanese chive flowers 

Our 6th Sake pairing with sommelier Amy Lee, Sharaku 'Yume no Kaori' Junmai from Fukushima

Incredibly light, clean, and lively, this sake boasts a delightful sweetness accented 

by gentle hints of white flowers

The Maguro Flower is Executive Chef Ryusuke Nakagawa's signature dish with sliced chutoro 

and akami to create a beautiful rose and served with a spectacular cloud of dry ice 

Umami-rich and as theatrical as they come, the Maguro Flower is style, substance 

and a dash of chef's singular brand of whimsy, all rolled into one

The dish is creatively designed for the restaurant's name, Hana, which means 'flower' in Japanese

Sustainable Fish Course with Fiddleheads and Ikura

Our 7th sake pairing with sommelier Amy Lee, 

Tedorigawa'U' Yamahai Junmai Muroka Genshu from Ishikawa

Juicy aromas like muscat, banana & lychee, this easy drinking sake has a hint of pear and grapefruit

The beautiful abalone shells waiting to be filled with the next course

Chef preparing the Awabi Uni

The 7th course puts Abalone and Uni into the spotlight with Awabi Uni,

and features Japanese ingredients from Iwate abalone, Hokkaido sea urchin, Nagaimo tofu, 

Shizuoka wasabi, and garnished with sea grapes from Okinawa

The abalone dish with the paired sake

Simmered for 3 hours in sake, kombu and daikon, the abalone is served with

Nagaimo yams  which are grated into a dashi mixture, then transformed into cubes of tofu, which sit beneath fresh Hokkaido sea urchins and garnished with abalone liver sauce, fresh wasabi and sea grapes – nicknamed green caviar for its fish roe-like appearance

Kid 'Aka' Red Sake from Wakayama is made using use Aka mai  — red rice — 

which is an ancient rice strain

A beautiful rosé coloured and well balanced sake from Wakayama

Our 8th course, Wagyu Shab-Shabu served a lotus leaf

Wagyu Shab-Shabu which sits on freshwater eggplant, is complimented by Pickled Plum Dashi Soy Sauce, Ponzu Sauce, Turnip, fresh Japanese Ginger, and served on a Lotus Leaf

The 9th course is a rice one that features unagi from Nagasaki which is charcoal grilled and brushed with a tasty sauce comprised of unagi bone, soy sauce, sake, and mirin

 Served on the side is Tsukemono — Japanese preserves vegetables — which includes dashi 

marinated okra, charcoal grilled Managanji Togarashi, and pickled daikon

A unique house blend miso soup is served on the side, 

blended with both red and white miso

Menu for extra special courses for those wanting a little extra umami

Our special extra course was Wagyu Ribeye on Sushi Rice with Hokkaido Uni and shaved black truffle

The final sake pairing for the evening was this beautiful Niwa no Uguisu Doburoku,

a thicker sweet sake with peach, kiwi, apple, pear, sweet tarts, citrus, rice, and umami flavours 

Served in a lovely glass cup, the nose on this unique “nigori-style” sake is a fun collection 

of wheat, kiwi, pineapple, vanilla, apple, cream, and rice aromas

The Early Summer intro to the dessert course spotlights two variations of Japanese corn.

Hailing from Hokkaido, a pure white corn nicknamed ‘Fruit Corn’ by locals for its sweetness

Miyazaki Mango Dessert

The final pairing was Japanese Gin with soda, and odd way to end our meal

In 2020, the Osuzuyama distillery launched its first gin on the Japanese market, with all of the botanicals produced locally including yuzu, ginger, kumquat

Special flowers and sweets were graciously presented at the conclusion of the Kaiseki,

to honour my birthday

Green Japanese tea was a warm and comforting finish to a spectacular evening

www.aburihana.com

Summer Pudding: The Ultimate Berrylicious Dessert

Summer Pudding is the quintessential English dessert, and one of my personal favourites! A triumphal end to many summer lunches and dinners I've hosted over the years, Summer Pudding has also become an eagerly anticipated summer treat for many of my friends. Packed full of fresh summer berries that have been simmered with brown sugar and framboise, then poured into a bread lined bowl and chilled overnight, the pectin in the berries react with the sugar in the bread, and as the pudding chills, it firms up into the most fabulous crimson coloured berry-licious pudding. Served with a dollop of crème fraîche, Summer Pudding is easy to make and outstandingly delicious. 

Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, 

and a package of frozen mixed berries

The berries are simmered with brown sugar, framboise and a little water

for about 20 minutes or until the berries have released their juices

Meanwhile, a bowl is lined with crustless white bread

Once the berries are ready, most of the juice is removed and stored in another bowl,

while the stewed berries are spooned into the bread-lined bowl

Berries are filled to the top of the bowl, crowned with more white bread to finish

then topped with a small plate inset into the bowl weighted down with heavy can and refrigerated

After being refrigerated for 24 hours, the bowl is upturned onto a presentation plate 

with the berry juice ladled overtop and then garnished with mint

Served and topped with a dollop of crème fraîche

Summer Pudding

Serves 12

1 lb strawberries

1 lb raspberries

1 lb blueberries

1 lb blackberries

1 package frozen mixed berries

1 cup light brown sugar

1 loaf white bread, such as Wonderbread

1/2 cup framboise

Remove the crusts from the bread. Wash and trim all the fresh berries, and add them to a large saucepan with the frozen berries, framboise, brown sugar and 1/2 cup of water, and cook over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved and the berries have released their juices, about 15-20 minutes. Let cool slightly, then remove 1 cup of the juice and set aside. 

Lightly grease a medium sized bowl with some vegetable oil, then line the bowl with the slices of bread, covering the bottom and the sides. Using a large spoon, ladle the berry mixture into the bread lined bowl, then top with the remaining slices of bread. Lay a flat plate on top with a heavy weight to squash the fruit down, and chill at least 24 hours. 

When ready to serve, place a large serving plate on top of the bowl and gently invert. Shake gently to release the pudding onto the plate and spoon the reserved juice over the top, garnishing with some sprigs of fresh mint. Serve cut into wedges, with a bowl of thick creme fraiche on the table. Heaven!

 

Hilltop Bocce and Canapé Day: The Last Supper

Invited to stay an extra day with our dear friends Cory and Richard at Hilltop, we had an impressive array of leftovers from our decadent lunch and dinners during the past week and decided to serve them all for our last supper together. However, there were some appetizers that we had not yet served, so enjoyed a leisurely afternoon by the pool, playing bocce, and indulging in Thai Shrimp Salad Appetizer Spoons, Smoked salmon Canapés, and Guy's homemade Roasted Tomato and Rosemary Focaccia filled with Ina's Tarragon Potato Salad. After a resounding victory for Richard and I at Bocce, we opened a lovely Côtes de Provence Rosé and gathered for a relaxed dinner together, looking forward to our next time together in the Autumn — braising season — and thankful for our friendship which is the ultimate food for the soul.

Playing Bocce is one of the highlights of visiting or dear friends Cory and Richard at Hilltop

Cory's Thai Shrimp and Cucumber Spoons

Garnished with cilantro and spiked with diced hot pepper,

the little spoon appetizers were delicious with a wee bit of zing

Salmon Canapés with whipped chive cream cheese and garnished 

with fresh dill, a grind of black pepper and sliced lemon

The 'Last Supper' at Hilltop with leftover highlights from our week — Rack of Lamb Chermoula, 

General Tso Chicken, Couscous, Fettucinne Shrimp Alfredo and Sinapore Noodle

Thai Shrimp Salad Appetizer Spoons

Makes 24

1/2 english cucumber

2 green onions

1 long red chilli

2 tbsp lime juice

2 tsp fish sauce

2 tsp sugar

1 lb cooked large shrimp 

2 tbsp roasted peanuts

2 tbsp fried onions

Cilantro leaves, for garnish 

Cut the cucumber into batons and remove the seeds, then chop the batons into a small dice and place in a non-metallic bowl. Thinly slice the green onions and add them to the bowl. Seed and finely chop the red chlli (to taste), then add it to the bowl with the cucumber and onion. Mix the lime juice, fish sauce and sugar together and stir until the sugar has dissolved, then taste and adjust to your preference. Pour the dressing over the salad and stir to combine. Place a heaped teaspoon of the the cucumber mixture into each spoon and top with a shrimp. Sprinkle over some roasted peanut, crispy onion and garnish with a cilantro leaf.

Thai Noodle Salad with Sesame Peanut Sauce

Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of MacKenzie Smith

For the Sesame Peanut Sauce:

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup sweet chili sauce

3 tbsp sesame oil

1/4 cup smooth peanut butter, or more to taste

2 tbsp rice vinegar

1 tbsp hot chili oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lime, juiced

For the Thai Noodle Salad:

1 lb linguini 

1 red bell pepper, finely chopped

1 cup shredded carrots, finely chopped

1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped

1/2 cup scallions, finely chopped

1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped

Begin by preparing your noodles al dente according to the directions on the box. When the noodles are done, strain and rinse them with cold water. Meanwhile, whisk together the soy sauce, sweet chili sauce, sesame oil, peanut butter, rice wine vinegar, hot chili oil, garlic, and lime juice until it’s smooth and creamy, then let it rest. Add the cooked noodles to a large bowl and top with diced red pepper, carrots, cilantro, scallions, and red onion. Pour the sauce on top and toss it all together until the noodles are coated. Serve immediately or place in the fridge until chilled.

Canada Day Highgate Agricultural Society Annual BBQ

 

Canada Day marks one of the main fundraising events each year supporting the Annual Highgate Fair with their annual BBQ. Marking their 170th year, the BBQ is enormously popular among locals and sells 400 tickets each year, including 2 tickets that our dear friends Cory and Richard purchased for us to attend the BBQ. With the purchase of a ticket, guests get 3 pieces of Burns' Broasted Chicken with all the fixings, including potatoes, coleslaw, bun & butter, finished off with a slice of fresh pie supplied by the Turnin United Church Women. Many people become members, supporting a longstanding tradition of community engagement stretching back to 1854. Membership is just $5.00 and is paid annually, enabling members to be an exhibitor in the Highgate Fair, and also allows members to vote for the annual Agricultural Service Diploma Award, and participate at the Society’s Annual General Meeting. I paid my $5 and am now a fully fledged member! 

Highgate District Agricultural Society Annual Canada Day BBQ Poster

My ticket for the Annual Canada Day BBQ 

Burns' Broasted Chicken, herb roasted potatoes, coleslaw and a bun with butter

Slice of Blueberry Pie from the Highgate Canada Day BBQ

Ma Gosnell baked a slew of the Turnin United Church Women pies for the Annual Canada Day BBQ

and then made sure every guest got a fresh piece of pie

hdas.weebly.com

Saturday Lunch: Poached Salmon & Potato Salad

 

Cold Poached Salmon cooked perfectly in a white wine, lemon and fresh herb broth served with homemade mayonnaise and Ina Garten's fabulous Dill Tarragon Potato Salad, is one our favourite summer lunches. My parents used to serve Poached Salmon when entertaining a large group of friends when we lived in Amersham in the early 70's. To my young mind and curious palate, it was an extravagant dish that captured my imagination. To this day, it still makes me smile. Serving it with mayonnaise and Ina Garten's iconic Dill and Tarragon Potato Salad with a lovely fresh green salad for our Saturday lunch at Hilltop was 'heaven on earth'. For dessert, we brought Summerhill Market's divinely decadent Butter Tarts loaded with pecans. Yum.

Ina Garten's Dill & Tarragon Potato Salad

Mayonnaise for the Poached Salmon

Saturday Lunch with Poached Salmon, Potato Salad and Green Salad

Butter Tarts from Summerhill Market

Tarragon Potato Salad
Serves 12
Recipe courtesy of Ina Garten

4 lb medium Yukon Gold potatoes
Maldon salt
2 cups good store-bought or homemade mayonnaise
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup tarragon white wine vinegar
2 tsp freshly ground white pepper
6 tbsp chopped scallions, white and green parts
6 tbsp minced red onion
1/4 cup minced tarragon
1/4 cup minced fresh dill


Place the potatoes in a pot with enough water to cover them. Add 1 tablespoon of salt, bring to a boil and simmer for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes, just until tender when pierced with a small knife or skewer. Drain in a colander. Put a kitchen towel over the colander and allow the potatoes to steam for 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes or leave the skins on if you prefer. Slice into 1/2-inch thick coins and place in a mixing bowl.

Meanwhile, combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, white wine vinegar and two teaspoons of Maldon salt and white pepper. While the potatoes are still warm, pour the dressing over the potatoes and toss well. Add the scallions, red onion, tarragon and dill, and toss gently. Allow the salad to sit for at least 30 minutes for the flavours to develop. Garnish with a little extra dill before serving at room temperature.