Colonial Williamsburg: 18th-Century Historic Life

The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation operates the world’s largest living history museum in Williamsburg Virginia, the restored 18th-century capital of Britain’s largest, wealthiest, and most populous outpost of empire in the New World. Named in honour of William III, King of England, Williamsburg is one of America’s oldest planned communities, and was a centre of political activity before and during the American Revolution of 1775–1783, where George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry debated taxes, slavery, and the inalienable rights of men. Funded largely by the family of John D. Rockefeller Jr. in the 1930's, the 301-acre historic area restoration of Colonial Williamsburg was launched as an interpretation of a colonial American city, with many of its historic structures rebuilt and with 'interpreters' reenacting 18th-century life, working, dressing, and talking as they would have in colonial times, preceding and during the American Revolution. 

A footman outside the Governor's Palace

Here the British flag flies most of the year over the Capitol building. Women wear long dresses and ruffled caps, and men don powdered wigs. Taverns serve Colonial fare, blacksmiths and harness makers use 18th-century methods, and the local militia drills on Market Square. Clip-clopping horses draw carriages just as their ancestors did when George Washington rode these streets. Rare animal breeds, historic trades, and lovingly restored gardens add layers of wonderful authenticity to the Colonial Williamsburg experience. 

A total of 88 original 18th-century and early-19th-century structures have been meticulously restored, and another 500 have been reconstructed on their original sites. In all, approximately 225 period rooms have been re-created with the foundation's collection of more than 60,000 pieces of furniture, ceramics, glass, silver, pewter, textiles, tools, paintings, prints, maps, firearms, and carpets. Period authenticity also governs the landscaping of the 301 acres of gardens and public greens. The restored area is surrounded by a greenbelt controlled by the foundation, which guards against development that could mar the illusion of the Colonial city.

Actors re-enacting outside the Governor's Palace which was the official residence of the Royal Governors of the Colony of Virginia

The Governor's Palace

The Palace garden allée

A gorgeous bed of tulips in bloom in the Palace garden

The palace kitchen with vegetable garden

Many men and women work tirelessly in Colonial Williamsburg keeping the grounds and vegetable gardens in perfect shape

A wooden bridge over a small pond at the foot of Palace Kitchen, provides irrigation for the vegetable garden

Colonial cooks making dough for biscuits

Keeping in character, the kitchen staff recount their daily life, as they prepare traditional dishes for the Palace Governor

One of the townspeople sipping a cup of ale in the heat of the afternoon

Horse and carriage clomp along Duke of Gloucester Street

Tarpley, Thompson & Company, a colonial-style tavernware shop

Fellow outside the Pasteur & Galt Apothecary Shop

The Apothecary Shop merchant explains how all of medicines were stored in drawers, bottles and jars

A Colonial-style apothecary bottle of Peruvian Bark Tincture

The colonial Post Office

The Shoemaker

Colonial townsfolk

Seamstress outside the Peyton Randolph House, originally built in 1715

The Raleigh Tavern on Duke of Gloucester Street

A coachman beside his horse drawn carriage

The troops convene outside the Capitol Building

Fifers and drummers marching up Duke of Gloucester for the evening re-enactment on the common

With the onset of war in 1775, Virginia began to train an army to defend against a British invasion. Fifers and Drummers were an important part of the 18th-century military. Just as Virginia enlisted soldiers and stockpiled arms and ammunition, it also trained fifers and drummers to work with soldiers in the field. The Colonial Williamsburg Fifes and Drums – also known as the Field Music of the Virginia State Garrison Regiment – carries forward the tradition of military music. 

The Continental Army convenes on the common

With the fanfare of the Williamsburg Fife and Drums, the battle ensued

A display of gunfire by the troops

Followed by the blast of cannons

At the close of "battle", the fife and drums march through Colonial Williamsburg to close the day

www.colonialwilliamsburg.com

The King's Arms Tavern: Colonial Williamsburg

In 1772, Jane Vobe opened the King's Arms Tavern and it became one of the town's most genteel establishments, catering to Virginia’s colonial elite and most politically influential people, during and after the American Revolution. Today, this colonial chophouse serves the finest in the King’s grand tradition by costumed staff amid candlelight complete with reproduction furniture and design details, such as reproduction Queen Anne-style tables set with stately yard-square linen napkins, brass candlesticks and china stamped with the king’s coat of arms. Today, the tavern offers a full bar menu of ales, wines, cocktails and specialty drinks such as Mint Julep, “Rummer” and Punch Royal, and continues the tradition of fine dining as guests enjoy Southern favourites such as Mrs Vobe's Peanut Soupe, Potted Cheddar, Hunter's Game Pye, Roast Prime Rib of Beef and Mrs. Vobe's signature Tavern Dinner of Sage and Rosemary Rubbed Cornish Hen with wild rice dressing, scuppernong-chutney sauce and vegetables ending sweetly with Williamsburg Pecan Pie, inspired by 18th-century recipes with some of the more unusual names come straight from colonial cookery books. Enjoying our first night in Colonial Williamsburg after a long drive from South Carolina, we dined at The King's Arms for a wonderful evening of colonial cocktails and fine food in the tavern's romantic and atmospheric candlelit dining room, complete with an entertaining 18th-century style balladeer to set the merry mood.

The King's Arms Tavern in Colonial Williamsburg

The King's Arms Tavern 'Bill of Fare' dinner menu which features Colonial-inspired southern favourites such as fried chicken, peanut soup and roast prime rib of beef

The dining room is dark and full of atmosphere with only candlelight to illuminate the room

Mint Julep made with bourbon mixed with fresh mint and sugar poured over crushed ice

"Mrs Vobe's" cornbread

A trio of condiments for the bread: pickled watermelon; sweet corn; and Virginia ham spread 

Mrs. Vobe’s Peanut Soupe, a southern favourite and a Tavern specialty garnished with roasted peanuts and sippers

A 18th-century style balladeer entertained tavern guests during dinner

A Soupe Befitting the Gentry, made from fresh vegetable inspired by 18th-Century "Receipts"

Dressed in a traditional colonial manner, our server obliged me with a photo as he poured our wine

A 2012 Montepulciano was the wine we chose for our dinner — although not very colonial, it was delicious

A final glass of wine before we wandered through the quiet lanes back to the Williamsburg Inn for a deep sleep before exploring Colonial Williamsburg in the morning

www.colonialwilliamsburg.com/do/restaurants/historic-dining-taverns/kings-arms

Cream of Peanut Soup
Serves 10-12
Recipe courtesy of The King's Arms

1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
3 tbsp flour
8 cups chicken stock
2 cups smooth peanut butter
1 3/4 cups light cream or half-and-half
Finely chopped salted peanuts, for garnish


In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring often, until softened, 3-5 minutes. Stir in flour and cook 2 minutes longer. Pour in the chicken stock, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until slightly reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes. Pour into a sieve set over a large bowl and strain, pushing hard on the solids to extract as much flavour as possible, then return the liquid back to the saucepan. Whisk in the peanut butter and the cream and warm over low heat, whisking often, for about 5 minutes. Do not boil. Serve warm, garnished with the chopped peanuts.

Memphis BBQ Co: "Best BBQ on the Planet"

Memphis Barbecue Co. in Fayetteville North Carolina is the pride and joy of world champion BBQ pitmasters Melissa Cookston and John Wheeler, and may very well be the only BBQ restaurant in the U.S. that features two world champion pit masters. Wet or dry, Hickory or oak, Pork or beef — no matter which way you take your ribs, there’s something beautifully primal about sitting down to a meal of finger licking good southern BBQ. Two-time 'Memphis in May' Grand Champion and a three-time winner of the 'Whole Hog Championship,'  Melissa regularly smokes the competition on the barbecue contest circuit. As well as being a successful restauranteur with two Memphis BBQ Co. locations, she's has also just released her first cookbook, 'Smokin' in the Boys Room: Southern Recipes from the Winningest Woman in Barbecue.' Now, everyone can enjoy some of her best recipes for not only the barbecue that has made her famous, but also for baked and fried favourites, delicious side dishes, and decadent desserts that will stick to your ribs. "The cookbook grew out of my 17 years of cooking on the male-dominated barbecue contest circuit. Here you'll find recipes I used to win world barbecue championships, recipes from my restaurants, and recipes from my soul and upbringing." We made a special stop at Memphis BBQ as we were driving though North Carolina, and gave Melissa's ribs a sticky two thumbs up!

Top pitmaster and restaurateur Melissa Cookston

The recipes cover the gamut, from sauces and seasoning blends, to pork and bacon, beef, poultry, and seafood, as well as a few sides and desserts to round out the meal, from from Slow-Smoked Competition Brisket, to Fire-Grilled Pork T-Bones with Hoe Cakes and Mississippi Caviar, and even Grilled Pineapple Upside Down Cake. And no true Southern cook would be without her Buttermilk Fried Chicken, BBQ Shrimp and Grits, and Red Beans and Rice. A native of Greenville, Mississippi, 150 miles south of Memphis, Cookston was introduced to barbecue by her husband Pete. They went to a BBQ contest when they started dating, then began experimenting on her own recipes and entered her first contest in her late 30s. Now she teaches men how to smoke meat. "I'm just preaching the gospel of barbecue," Cookston says."I do what I love."

Melissa Cookston's 'Smokin' in the Boy's Room' cookbook

Memphis BBQ Co. laminated pork-centric menu

Southern unsweetened Iced Tea

Deep Fried Pork Rinds

The Full Rack Spare Ribs Pitmaster's Sampler complete with pulled pork, brisket, potato salad, onion rings and corn bread

 "Finger Lickin' Good" to the last 

Pulled Pork Sandwich with Cole Slaw and onion rings

The mark of any fine dining establishment — a moist towelette!

memphisbbqco.com

Competition Pork Baby Back Ribs
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy Melissa Cookston

"I’m known in the media and among competitors as a whole-hog cook, and I’ve been very fortunate with whole hogs in contests. However, I’ve won a lot more contests with my baby back ribs. This recipe won first place in eight contests in a row—a pretty mean feat! These ribs have a full flavour profile: a little sweet, some acid, a little salt, and just enough heat on the back of your palate to make you want another bite. Save the bones and meat trimmings for making stock."

2 slabs baby back ribs, about 3-pounds each
1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp  Ultimate BBQ Rub — see below
1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp yellow mustard
2 tbsp honey
4 tbsp turbinado sugar
4 tbsp purple grape juice
1/2 cup Sweet Glaze — see below
Chipotle chile powder, for sprinkling


Rinse the ribs and remove the membrane from the back. Trim any excess fat from the tops of the slabs. Trim 1 bone from the large end of the ribs and 2 bones from the small end. This will give you a much more consistent slab for cooking.

Starting on the backs, sprinkle the ribs with approximately 1 1/2 teaspoons of rub each, then add 1 1/2 teaspoons mustard each and massage into the meat. Flip the ribs over and repeat. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours. For a contest, I marinate ribs like this for 12 to 16 hours.

Prepare a smoker to cook at 225°F with around 4 chunks of apple wood and 4 chunks of cherry wood so that the wood will smolder throughout the cooking. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator, unwrap, and repeat the rub and mustard procedure, massaging them in. Don’t get it too thick or paste like, as this will give you a dark appearance when cooked.

Place the ribs in the smoker meat side up and cook for 2 hours. Remove the ribs from the smoker and increase the temperature to 250°F. Apply rub and mustard to both sides of the ribs as before. On each of the top sides, slather approximately 1 tablespoon of honey over the surface, then sprinkle heavily with about 2 tablespoons of turbinado sugar each. Lay the ribs meat side down on a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and fold up the edges. Pour 2 tablespoons of purple grape juice into the bottom of the foil for each rib then finish wrapping the ribs, but don’t crimp the edges—you want steam to be able to escape.

Return the ribs to the cooker for 2 hours, then test for tenderness. (I cook ribs at this stage until they look overdone and too tender. Don’t worry; they’ll tighten up. If they still have too much texture, leave them in for 20 to 30 more minutes.) Remove the ribs from the cooker, open the foil, and drain off the liquid. Brush sauce on the bone side of the ribs. Then, using the foil as a tool, “roll” the ribs over so the meat side is up and glaze the tops. Using long tongs, carefully remove the ribs from the foil and place them back in the smoker for 15 minutes. This will let the glaze cook onto the ribs and let the ribs tighten back up. Remove from the cooker and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Apply a very thin coat of glaze to “glisten” the ribs, then very lightly sprinkle with chipotle powder before serving.



Ultimate BBQ Rub
Makes about 6 1/2 cups

1 cup turbinado sugar
5 cups Basic BBQ Rub — see below
1/4 cup light chili powder
1/4 cup granulated garlic
1 tsp cayenne

Place the turbinado sugar in a clean coffee grinder and pulse until lightly powdered. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. (You may have to work in batches.) Add the rub, chili powder, granulated garlic, and cayenne and stir until well incorporated. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 months.



Sweet Glaze
Makes 3 cups

"Barbecue competitions are not just about flavour — they’re also about appearance. Honey will not only add some sweetness but also give your products a beautiful sheen".

2 cups BBQ Mother Sauce — see below
1 cup honey
2 tbsp Basic BBQ Rub — see below


In a small saucepan over low heat, stir the mother sauce with the honey until incorporated. Add the rub and stir until the sugars in the rub have dissolved and there is no grainy texture. Remove from the heat, cool, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. To use, brush on the meat in the last 10 minutes of smoking or 2 minutes of grilling, so the glaze doesn’t burn.



Basic BBQ Rub
Makes about 1 3/4 cups

"This is my all-purpose grilling seasoning, as I like the saltier overtones for the grill. It’s great on steaks, pork chops, and grilled chicken".


1/2 cup freshly cracked black pepper
1 tbsp dried onion flakes
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp dill seeds
1 tsp hot red pepper flakes
1 cup kosher salt
2 tbsp granulated garlic
1 tsp light chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin


Place the cracked black pepper, onion flakes, coriander seeds, dill seeds, and hot red pepper flakes in a coffee grinder and pulse until reduced in size but not pulverized. Transfer to a small mixing bowl, add the salt, granulated garlic, chili powder, and cumin, and stir until well incorporated. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.



BBQ Mother Sauce
Makes about 6 cups

"This recipe has always been our “mother” competition sauce—the base we use to make the sauces we serve for competition judges. It is very forgiving of tweaking, so use it as a palette with which to add your favorite flavors. One of my favorite variations is to add a cup of peach or mango puree to 2 cups of the sauce for a fresh taste. When cooking competition chicken, I leave out the diced onion and substitute 1 tablespoon of onion powder, as I like a smoother finish on chicken".

1/4 cup canola oil
3/4 cup finely diced sweet or yellow onion
2 tbsp minced garlic
1 1/2 cups ketchup
1/2 cup honey
2 tbsp tomato paste
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp cayenne
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup water, or as needed
1/2 cup Basic BBQ Rub, or Ultimate BBQ Rub, or to taste


In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low if the onion is cooking too fast—you don’t want it caramelized or browned. As the onion is getting close, add the garlic and cook until lightly golden, about 2 minutes longer. Add the ketchup, honey, tomato paste, vinegar, brown sugar, Worcestershire, dry mustard, cayenne, and black pepper and stir well. Slowly add water until the sauce reaches the consistency you like. A slightly thick consistency is best. Add about 3 tablespoons of the rub, stir well, and taste. The sauce should have a good, well-rounded flavor. Add more rub in 1-tablespoon increments until your desired flavor is achieved. Cool and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Edna Lewis: The Grande Dame of Southern Cooking

The influence of renowned Southern Chef Edna Lewis is still felt at Middleton Place, where she was the resident chef for several years. The recipes she developed for the South Carolina restaurant gave special attention to authentic Low Country cuisine, and continue to be used for both Middleton's lunch and dinner menu to this day. Edna Lewis grew up cooking with the seasons on a wood-fired stove in Freetown, Virginia and is largely credited with preserving the traditional cuisine of Southern American cooking through her cooking classes and cookbooks, including The Gift of Southern Cooking and The Taste of Country Cooking. She was also a political activist and the darling of the New York arts and literature set in the 1940s and 50s. In recipes and reminiscences equally delicious, Edna Lewis celebrated the uniquely American country cooking she grew up with in a small Piedmont farming community that had been settled by freed slaves. With menus for the four seasons, she shares the ways her family prepared and enjoyed food, savoring the delights of each special time of year.

'The Taste of Country Cooking' by Edna Lewis

One of eight children, she left home at age 16 after her father died, and moved to Washington and eventually to New York City where she met John Nicholson, an antiques dealer who decided to open a restaurant on 58th Street, where she became the cook, preparing cheese soufflés and roast chicken. Café Nicholson became an instant success among bohemians and artists, and was frequented by William Faulkner, Marlon Brando, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, Richard Avedon, Gloria Vanderbilt and Marlene Dietrich among others. Lewis remained at the restaurant until the late 1950s until she broke her leg and was temporarily forced to stop cooking professionally. With encouragement from Judith Jones, the cookbook editor at Knopf who also edited Julia Child, she turned her focus to writing and was the author of three seminal cookbooks that, to quote The New York Times from February 2006, “revived the nearly forgotten genre of refined Southern cooking while offering a glimpse into African-American farm life in the early 20th century.” Her cookbooks include: The Edna Lewis Cookbook (1972), The Taste of Country Cooking (1976) and In Pursuit of Flavour (1988). Lauded as one of the great women of American cooking, and a specialist in Southern Cooking, she received an honorary Ph.D. in Culinary Arts from Johnson & Wales in 1996, a James Beard Living Legend Award — their first such award — and named 'Grande Dame' from Les Dames d'Escoffier in 1999. Dr. Edna Lewis died in 2006 at the age of 89, leaving a culinary legacy that lives to this day.

Southern Pan-Fried Chicken
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking 

One 3 lb chicken, cut into 8 pieces and brined for 8 to 12 hours
1 quart buttermilk
1 lb lard
1 stick unsalted butter
1/2 cup country ham pieces or 1 thick slice country ham, cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Brine:
1/4 cup kosher salt
1 quart water


Brine the chicken. That is, soak it in a saltwater solution before cooking, which serves a twofold purpose: it helps the meat retain moisture and seasons it all the way through. To make the brine, stir kosher salt into cold water until dissolved in the proportion of 1/4 cup kosher salt to 1 quart of water. Don’t use table salt; it will be too salty. Mix enough brine to cover the poultry completely in a non-reactive bowl or pot and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours.

To prep the brined chicken for frying, drain it and discard the brine. Rinse out the bowl it was brined in. Return the chicken to the bowl and pour the buttermilk over the chicken. Cover and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. Place the chicken on a wire rack to drain, discarding the buttermilk.

Meanwhile, prepare the fat for frying by putting the lard, butter, and country ham in a heavy skillet or frying pan. Cook over low heat for 30 to 45 minutes, skimming any foam as needed, until the butter ceases to throw off foam and the country ham is browned. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ham from the fat. Just before frying, increase the temperature to medium-high and heat the fat to 335°F.

Prepare the dredge by blending together the flour, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in a shallow bowl or on wax paper. Dredge the drained chicken pieces thoroughly in the flour mixture, then gently shake to remove all excess flour. Slip some of the chicken pieces, skin side down, into the heated fat. Do not crowd the pan and fry in batches if necessary. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes on each side, until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through. Drain thoroughly on a wire rack or on crumpled paper towels. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature with biscuits.

The Best Biscuits
Makes 12
Recipe courtesy of Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking 

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp single-acting baking powder or double-acting baking powder (see note)
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup cold lard or vegetable shortening, cut into pieces
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 tbsp unsalted butter, melted


Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a bowl, sift the flour with the baking powder, baking soda and salt. Using your fingers, work in the lard just until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the buttermilk just until moistened. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead 2 or 3 times. Roll out or pat the dough 1/2 inch thick. Using a 2-inch round cutter, stamp out biscuits as close together as possible. Transfer the biscuits to a baking sheet. Pat the dough scraps together, reroll and cut out the remaining biscuits; do not overwork the dough. Pierce the top of each biscuit 3 times with a fork and brush with the butter. Bake the biscuits for 12 to 14 minutes, or until risen and golden. Serve at once with Fried Chicken.

NOTES: To make your own single-acting baking powder, combine 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of baking soda. The mix will keep in a tightly sealed jar for up to 1 month.

Southern-Style Macaroni and Cheese
Serves 8-10
Recipe courtesy of Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking 

1 1⁄2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
8 oz hollow pasta, preferably elbow macaroni
Butter, for greasing
7 oz extra-sharp cheddar, cut into 1⁄2" cubes, plus 6 oz grated  
2 tbsp plus 1 tsp. flour
1 1⁄2 tsp dry mustard
1⁄4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1⁄4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1⁄8 tsp cayenne pepper
2⁄3 cup sour cream
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 1⁄2 cups half-and-half
1 1⁄2 cups heavy cream
1⁄3 cup grated onion
1 tsp Worcestershire 

Heat oven to 350°F. Bring a 4-qt. saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until cooked halfway through, about 3 minutes. Drain pasta and transfer to a greased 9" x 13" baking dish. Stir in the cubed cheddar cheese and set aside. Combine 1 1⁄2 tsp salt, flour, mustard, black pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne in a large mixing bowl. Add the sour cream and the eggs and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the half-and-half, heavy cream, onions, and Worcestershire. Pour egg mixture over the reserved pasta mixture and stir to combine. Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly over the surface. Bake until the pasta mixture is set around the edges but still a bit loose in the centre, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.

Fresh Apple Cake with Caramel Glaze
Serves 12
Recipe courtesy of Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking 

For the cake:
1 cup light-brown sugar, packed
1 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
3 large eggs
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
2 tsp ground Ceylon cinnamon
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp salt
5 fresh apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch pieces
1 1/4 cups not-too-finely chopped pecans
2 1/4 tsp vanilla extract

For the glaze:
1/2 stick unsalted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light-brown sugar
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup heavy cream


Preheat the oven to 325°F. To make the cake, put the sugars and vegetable oil in a mixing bowl, and beat until very well blended. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt, and gradually add to the sugar and eggs, mixing just until well blended. Stir in the apples, pecans, and vanilla, and pour into a buttered and 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

Bake in the preheated oven until a skewer or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 1 1/4 hours. Begin checking after 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool in the pan while you prepare the caramel glaze.

To make the glaze, melt the butter in a saucepan, and add both the sugars and the salt. Stir until blended, and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, and boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Use a skewer or toothpick to poke holes all over the top of the cake, and pour the warm glaze over the surface. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Shrimp Grits
Serves 6
Recipe courtesy of Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking 

For the shrimp paste:
1 cup unsalted butter
1 pound small fresh gulf shrimp, peeled and deveined 
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup sherry
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

For the shrimp grits:
2 cups water
2 cups milk, or more
1 cup stone-ground or regular grits
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Chopped chives, for garnish


For the shrimp paste, heat 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet until it is hot and foaming. Add the shrimp, salt, and pepper, and cook over high heat, stirring often, for 4-7 minutes, until the shrimp are pink and just cooked through. Remove the skillet from the stove and use a slotted spoon or tongs to transfer the cooked shrimp to the bowl of a food processor with the blade attachment. Return the skillet to the stove, and add the sherry, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. 

Cook over high heat until the liquid in the skillet is reduced to approximately 3 tablespoons and is quite syrupy. Immediately add this to the shrimp in the food processor, and process until the shrimp are thoroughly pureed. With the motor running, add the remaining butter in pieces and process until thoroughly blended. Turn the food processor off and carefully taste the paste for seasoning, adding more salt, black pepper, sherry, lemon juice, or cayenne pepper as needed. 

Transfer the shrimp paste to a ceramic crock and allow to cool completely. If not using right away, cover the shrimp paste and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Refrigerated shrimp paste should be allowed to return to room temperature before serving. If it is still too dry to spread, you may work in some softened butter and salt to taste until it is spreadable.

For the shrimp grits, heat water and milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan until just simmering. While the milk and water are heating, put the grits in a large mixing bowl and cover with cool water — however, if you're using regular grits, skip this step. Stir the grits assertively so that the chaff floats to the top. Carefully skim the surface of the grits to remove the chaff. Drain the grits through a fine strainer, and stir them into the simmering water and milk. 

Cook, stirring often, until the grits are tender to the bite and have thickened to the consistency of thick oatmeal. Regular grits are done in about 20 minutes, but stone-ground grits require an hour or a little more to cook, and you will have to add additional milk and water as needed. 

As the grits thicken, stir them more often to keep them from sticking and scorching. Stir in the cream and butter and season generously with salt to taste. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, until time to serve. If the grits become too thick as they cool, reheat them, stirring in a little extra water or milk to thin. Top hot grits with a generous dollop of Shrimp Paste — for every cup of grits, stir in about 1/4 cup or more Shrimp Paste, and sprinkle some chopped fresh chives on top, if you like them. Serve as an appetizer, a supper dish with buttered toast, or a savoury side dish.