Friday, January 24, 2020

Cattedrale di Monreale & Chiostro dei Benedettini





Sitting majestically on a hill overlooking Palermo and one of the most beautiful Norman churches in Sicily, Cattedrale di Monreale was built in the 12th-century by King William II 'The Good' of Sicily, and marks the high point of the marriage between Norman-Arab Architecture and Byzantine craftsmanship. Inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, the dazzling Byzantine mosaics, made of pure gold and crafted by artisans from Constantinople, are among the most magnificent in the world. An enormous mosaic of Christ the Pantocrator in the central apse embraces cathedral visitors with outstretched arms, while colourful mosaics depict biblical and other religious events from the Old Testament saturate the walls of the central nave with the life of Jesus depicted on the side aisles, with mosaics of numerous saints and scenes from the Gospels found in the two smaller apse the transept. The neighbouring Benedictine Cloister is a another masterpiece of Norman- Arabian art, bordered by marble columns, each decorated with inlaid mosaic decorations and carved capitals, arranged around four quadrants of lawns inside clipped hedges. Built at the same time as the Cathedral, this amazing cloister is surrounded by over two hundred intricately carved double columns, every other one decorated in a unique glass mosaic pattern, with highly elaborate capitals carved by Byzantine and Islamic artists. One or the workers or, more likely, one of the helpers, wrote in Latin on one of the capitals: “I am the marble worker Costantino, a Roman son”. 



The main square in Monreale

The exterior of Cattedrale di Monreale, built in the 12th-century by King William II of Sicily

An enormous mosaic of 'Christ the Pantocrator' with outstretched arms

Made of pure gold and crafted by artisans from Constantinople, the dazzling mosaics are among the most magnificent in the world

The cathedral marks the high point of the marriage between Norman-Arab Architecture and Byzantine craftsmanship in the 12th-century

All the surfaces are completely covered with beautiful mosaics, from the walls, to the ceilings and arches; the colourful wooden ceiling was extensively restored after the fire in 1811

Exquisite 12th-century inlaid marble and mosaic floor by famed Lorenzo Cosmati

The Chapel of the Holy Crucifix is a small Baroque treasure chest inside the wonderful Cathedral 

Boys playing behind the Cathedral with its beautiful Arab-Norman architectural detailing 

Built at the same time as the Cathedral, the neighbouring Benedictine Cloister is a another masterpiece of Norman-Arabian art and architecture

The cloister has 228 small columns, each with different decorations influenced by Provençal, Burgundian, Arab and Salerno medieval art

The capitals in the cloister of the abbey of Monreale were carved from white marble, but over time has acquired a thick, sandstone patina that covers them almost entirely

In one corner, a second room of columns formed an open "room" that contained a fountain with a broad basin: clearly reminiscent of an ablution fountain at a mosque

The beautiful Cloister fountain, exquisitely decorated with Arab and Norman designs

Bordered by marble columns each decorated with inlaid mosaics with carved capitals

Capital detail of King William II of Sicily and his wife, Queen Joan of England, the daughter of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine, atop lovely carved columns

The C;sisters are a jewel of Arab-Norman art

Each quadrant of the garden had four small trees: an olive, a date palm, a pomegranate, and a fig

A pretty back street of Monreale

Our Tours by Locals guide Iolanda, who escorted us around Monreale

View of Palermo from Monreale 

Overlooking one of the hills of Palermo, which surround the city

Enormously knowledgable and full of fun, Iolanda was a wonderful guide for our afternoon in Monreale 

'Love locks' along a fence in Monreale by Sicilian sweethearts who throw away the key
to symbolize their unbreakable love 






























Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Bye Bye Blues: Sicilian Michelin Star Cuisine





The first female chef in Sicily to earn a Michelin star, chef Patrizia Di Benedetto’s great love for cooking began in the family kitchen. “In Sicily, every woman is a good chef. We learned how to cook from our grandmothers and mothers when they cooked for family and friends,” she says with a twinkle in her eye. “Meals in Sicilian families can last half a day with lots of eating, talking and drinking.” Patrizia drew on the lessons she learned from the women in her family who had an intimate knowledge of traditional Sicilian cuisine, and then developed her expertise by attending courses, both in Italy and abroad. And that is how Bye Bye Blues became a safe haven for dedicated gourmets, where the very best of rich Sicilian culinary pride combines with the essential way the dishes are presented and the decidedly contemporary manner that the home-style, time-honoured recipes are prepared. Zero km ingredients and fresh fish, provided daily by local fishermen, are the true secrets of a wholesome cuisine, outstanding in quality.

A sophisticated white-walled modern restaurant that serves both the Palermitani elites and visiting gastronomes, chef di Benedetto specializes in innovative takes on classic Mediterranean dishes, but with the intense flavours of traditional Sicilian cuisine, like Black Cavatelli Pasta in a seafood sauce with sea urchin mousse, sensational Mazara Red Prawn Carpaccio with tuna roe mayonnaise, luscious Mixed Raw Fish Crudo with green tea salt and lemon marmalade with orange blossom honey, and impressive 5 or 6-course degustation menus for those with healthier appetites, which are all served on beautiful raku ceramics chef di Benedetto imported from Japan. The extensive wine list spotlights the finest selections from Sicily and Italy, as well as iconic wine regions of the world, including a tempting Champagne collection, supervised by Patricia's husband and sommelier Antonio Barraco. Arriving for a dinner on a warm evening while in Palermo, chef di Benedetto greets all guests as they arrive, then heads back to the kitchen to create her culinary wonders. “My cooking originates from the intense flavours and aromas of Sicily, exalted by modern culinary techniques. My 'filled with memories' dishes become protagonists of the changes we are witnessing in many of our habits and in the way we eat. A surprising pairing, an unexpected ingredient, an unusual preparation — but the memory lingers of a dish cooked with love, food that is good for the soul."




Michelin Chef Patrizia Di Benedetto and somellier husband Antonio Barraco 

We began our evening with a glass of Fench Pommery Brut Royal Apanage Champagne

Light and fresh, only twelve carefully selected crus are used to make this elegant champagne, with a noticeably greater presence of the finest Grand Crus from the Pommery vineyard

Homemade crisp and flavourful grissini

Surgiva aqua minerale frizzante in an elegant silver holder
watched over by our resident red puppy

Sfincione amuse-bouche, a traditional Palermo street food much like a Sicilian style pizza 

Amuse bouche of grilled offal

Crispelle Siciliane con Acciughe e Ricotta: Anchovy and Ricotta Fritters

Vigna di Milo Caselle Etna Bianco Superiore

A well rounded and balanced wine produced from the Carricante grape on the eastern slopes of Mt Etna

Nestled in an ice-filled wine bucket

Lovely fresh Sicilian bread

Green tea salt and Sicilian olive oil for the bread

Whimsical ceramic animals are placed on each table

Carpaccio di gamberi rossi, insalatina tiepida di patate e fagiolini, julienne di calamari, maionese di bottarga e olio alla menta: Red prawn carpaccio with tuna roe mayonnaise and olive oil infused with mint

Misti di Pesci Crudi con sale al té verde e marmellata di limoni al miele di zagara

Raw langoustine

Raw anchovies

Squid crudo with salmon fish roe

Mazaro shrimp crudo

Amberjack crudo

Tuna crudo

An intense and full bodied Feudi del Pisciotto Versace Nero d'Avola 2016

A classic table setting with Bye Bye Blues signature steak knife

Agnello ai Pistacchi su fondente di cipolle rosse e caponata

Fish knife and fork

Variazione di Pesce Bianco

Pistachio coated Tuna

Panko crusted Scorpion Fish

Succulent swordfish, scampi and red prawn crudo

Pan-Fried Local Swordfish

Pine Nut Coated Sicilian Grouper

Caponata

Bye Bye Blues Dessert Menu 

Dessert amuse-bouche

Torta di Limone e mandorle con zabaglione, gelato alla vaniglia e piccola crème brûlée

Piccola crème brûlée

La Pesca Melba

Vito Curatolo Arini Marsala Superiore Riserva 1995

Selection of delicious cookies, shortbread and macarons