Perugia: Galleria Nazionale & Ristorante La Taverna

The capital of Umbria, Perugia is a spectacular hilltop town with a compact historic centre and rambling maze of charming medieval streets, exceptional museums and unique archeological treasures. Overlooking the verdant Tiber Valley, the city was originally founded by the Etruscans, but walking through the city one also feels the strong imprint of Roman, Medieval and Renaissance influences, testimony to the historical, artistic and cultural wealth of Perugia's unique rich and colourful past. At the centre of Perugia is Piazza IV Novembre, considered one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. Surrounded by the Palazzo dei Priori and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the heart of Piazza IV Novembre is actually Fontana Maggiore, a beautiful medieval fountain that was built in the 12th century, which brought water to the town from Mount Pacciano through an extensive aqueduct, an astounding feat of its time. The fountain is composed of two marble polygonal basins, representing biblical, secular and mythological motifs, and one of the best examples of Gothic art found anywhere in Italy. 

On the other side of the square is the Palazzo dei Priori, which houses the National Gallery of Umbria, the most richest and most important art collections in Umbria, including masterpieces from the Middle Ages and Renaissance with works by Arnolfo di Cambio, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Duccio di Boninsegna, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca, with considerable amount of space dedicated to Umbrian artists Benedetto Bonfigli, Bartolomeo Caporali, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo and especially renowned paintings by local favourite Perugino, who famously taught Raphael.

Fontana Maggiore in the centre of Perugia's Piazza IV Novembre

Detail from the sculpture of Perugino in Giardini Carducci

The grand portal of the Palazzo die Priori is surmounted by the city's symbols: the griffin of Perugia and the Imperial Guelf lion both cast in bronze

The grand entrance to the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria and and Sala dei Notari, 

housed in Perugia's Palazzo dei Priori

Pinturicchio's Virgin and Child with St John 

Altarpiece by Beato Angelico, 1447

Madonna and Child with Saint John the Baptist, Peter, Jerome, and Paul by Benozzo Gozzoli, 1456

Polyptych of the Madonna and Child with Saints Anthony, John the Baptist, Francis and Elizabeth by Piero della Francesca, 1470

Fra Angelico Descent from the Cross, 1435

Detail from Gentile da Fabriano's Madonna in trono col Bambino e angeli musicanti, 1405

Perugino's The Adoration of the Magi, painted 1476

Emerging from a a full morning feasting on the artistic and cultural treasures of the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, we felt it was time to nurture our other senses and made our way to La Taverna, an elegant restaurant nestled in the Medieval cellars of Count Zeffirino Faina, which date back to 1400. Claudio Brugalossi, the charismatic owner and chef of Ristorante La Taverna, welcomed us as we arrived for lunch, upon which we were escorted to a lovely corner table in La Taverna's dramatic vaulted dining room, detailed with modern artwork — a sharp and effective contrast to the restaurant's historic ambiance. Considered one of the best restaurants in Perugia, chef Brugalossi's menu features typical Umbrian and Perugian cuisine, with all of the pasta, breads and gelato made in house each day. Starting with a bottle of Castello di Magione Monterone Grechetto, a delicious white wine from Umbria, we settled in for a leisurely two hour lunch, beginning with a Fava Bean and Artichoke Soup, and Cappelletti in Brodo di Cappone — a dish we fell in love with when we had travelled to Emilia Romagna. As entrées, we each selected dishes from the sea: a spectacular Tempura di Gamberi e Verdura, towering Filetto di Baccala con prugne, uvetta e pinoli, and handsome Grigliata Mista di Pesce Fresco. With a simple macchiato as our dolce, we were drawn back to Piazza IV November where a GoTechno concert was taking place, featuring musicians Matisa, Fabio Branco and Lorenzo GMT. From Medieval and Renaissance art and architecture to the energy and pulse of a vibrant summer concert, Perugia is a city that straddles centuries but is alive with a young and joyous heart. 

La Taverna is an elegant restaurant nestled in the Medieval vaulted cellars of Count Zeffirino Faina 

La Taverna Ristorante menu

Castello di Magione Monterone Grechetto, a brilliant gold wine with a nose rich with apples, pears, apricots, and bright honeysuckle

Fresh baked bread

Chef Claudio Brugalossi came by the table to welcome us to his restaurant and took the time to chat about life, love and Italian politics!

Zuppa di Fave e Carciofi all'Extra Vergine di Frantoio

Cappelletti in Brodo di Cappone

Tempura di Gamberi e Verdura

Filetto di Baccala con Prugne, Uvetta e Pinoli

Grigliata Mista di Pesce Fresco

An elegantly presented Macchiato 

After lunch, we discovered a concert taking place in Piazza IV Novembre with a a musical lineup featuring Matisa, Fabio Branco and Lorenzo GMT

www.ristorantelataverna.com

Assisi: Basilica di San Francesco & Taverna Consoli

Perched on a cliff along the walls of Assisi, the approach to the Basilica di San Francesco can be overpowering. Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis, who was born Giovanni Francesco di Bernardone in 1182 and later founded the Franciscan Order and Women’s Order of Santa Clara. Thousands come to worship in Assisi's magnificent churches, and to pray to Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy affectionately called Il Poverello because he lived and preached a life of simplicity and poverty. Famous for its spectacular Basilica di San Francesco, built in the 13th century, Assisi is worth visiting even without the churches, extraordinary frescoes and associations with St Francis. Founded by the Umbrians, Assisi was prominent during the Roman era but achieved its greatest fame and importance during the Middle Ages. The town still retains the architectural flavour of these times, as we enjoyed strolling through its extraordinary squares and streets.

A labyrinth of meandering Medieval walkways wind through Assisi

The Basilica di San Francesco is perhaps the most visited sight in Umbria, housing the saint’s relics and Giotto‘s renowned fresco series of St. Francis’s life

View of the Basilica 

Sculpture on the front lawn of the Basilica depicting St Francis as a soldier

before he devoted himself to a life of poverty

The Basilica, which was begun in 1228, is comprised of two churches known as the Upper Church and the Lower Church, with a crypt on the lower level where the remains and relics of St Francis are interred. The Basilica and accompanying friary are a distinctive landmark when approaching the hilltop town of Assisi, one of the most important stops for Christian pilgrims visiting Italy. The Basilica's breathtaking interior and world famous frescoes, painted by the greatest artists of the time including Giotto and Cimabue, portray the life of St Francis as well as scenes from the Old and New Testament. An exquisite church with a fabulous collection of priceless frescoes, it was tragic, when in 1997, massive earthquakes hit Assisi, causing enormous damage to the Basilca and the fragile frescoes located within. Astoundingly, the restoration was done in record time, and the Basilica was reopened just two years later. Today, pilgrims flock to Assisi and the Basilica di San Francesco with the hauntingly beautiful lower church where St. Francis is buried — a simple tomb with a vaulted ceiling, painted dark blue and dotted with stars.

The interior of the Upper Church of St Francis with Giotto's fresco cycle on the life of St Francis

The Stigmata of St. Francis by Giotto, painted 1297-1300 

Saint Francis' Sermon to the Birds

Miracle of the Spring

The Basilica of St Francis - The Lower Church

Side Chapel in the Basilica

The Burial Tomb of St Francis of Assisi in the Basilica

The interior Cloisters of the Church

One of the older sites within the ancient town is the former Temple of Minerva, now a Christian church, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The entire Roman facade, with its imposing Corinthian columns are from the first century BC. After several centuries of abandonment, 6th century Benedictine monks began to restore the space, but from the 13th to the early 16th century, the temple was even used as a city jail! In 1539, Pope Paul III ordered the inner sanctum to be completely restored. The church nave now is decorated in an extravagant Baroque style, which is unbelievably beautiful, but the contrast to the classical exterior is quite shocking.

The Roman facade of The Temple of Minerva is now a Christian Church with an extravagant Baroque interior

A pigeon waiting outside the temple for an offering perhaps

Temple of Minerva's Baroque apse

The ceiling is wildly ornate in such sharp contrast the stark Roman exterior

View over the Val d'Umbria on our stroll to the Basilica of Santa Chiara

Exterior of the Basilica di Santa Chiara, a 13th-century church that houses the relics of St. Clare, 

a follower of Saint Francis of Assisi and founder of the Order of Poor Ladies, 

known today as the Order of Saint Clare

The beautifully carved door and architrave

Carving detail of a lamb on the entry to Santa Chiara, the symbol for Christ

The church interior was given a Baroque makeover in 1742-57, 

which was sadly destroyed by an Allied bomb in August 1943

Ornate painting of St Francis 

In addition to Assisi's religious and cultural highlights, Assisi is also famous for its fine restaurants. Located in one of the most beautiful buildings in the historic centre of Assisi, with glorious views over La Piazza del Comune, is Taverna dei Consoli, which has been in business with three generations of one family since 1936. The menu emphasizes local cuisine using traditional recipes and delicious local produce, such as black truffles from Norcia, porcini mushrooms, wild boar and game plus a selection of regional cheeses. The charming interior has retained much of the original splendour of its Roman and medieval heritage with vaulted ceilings and stone arches, but on a warm summer day the best place to have lunch is on the outdoor terrace overlooking the main square. 

The beautiful exterior of Taverna dei Console overlooking the fountain in Piazza del Comune

The canopy covered entrance to Taverna dei Consoli

Having reserved a table a month before, our terrace table was ready and waiting

A delightfully long and sumptuous menu on a sunny afternoon on the best terrace in Assisi

Fresh bread...

...a glass of Prosecco...

...and an Aperol Spritz - heaven!

Prosciutto Crudo di Norcia e Crostini con Paté di Fegato di Pollo

Insalate di Finocchio e Pecorino Umbro

Grilled Raddichio

Pappardelle di Ragu Rosso di Chinghiale

Umbrian Sausages with Polenta

Lamb Cutlets

Roasted Potatoes

Spinach

Macchiato

www.tavernadeiconsoli.it