Monday, March 21, 2016

Harry's Chana Masala: Vegan and Gluten-Free






A popular vegetarian dish throughout Northern India, Chana Masala is both vegan and gluten-free but definitely not lacking in flavour. "A dollop of comfortingly bolstering pulses bathed in a thick, tangy, deeply spiced gravy, it’s the kind of food that tastes of home", whether home is Ahmedabad, Aberdeen or Asakura. Mumbai-born chef Maunika Gowardhan simmers her chickpeas with a black teabag, which she says is "common practice in Punjabi households", lending the dish a rich smoky flavour and deep colour. One can’t taste the tea, but it does give the dish a lovely warm hue. In this recipe, my stepson Harry starts by soaking the chickpeas overnight in cold water then simmering them for a hour until tender. Once cooked, the chickpeas and tomatoes are simmered with a mixture of fried garlic, ginger, onion, and green chiles with a flury of traditional Indian spices including ground cumin, garam masala, coriander, and turmeric. A tin of San Marzano tomatoes are then added along with the cooked chickpeas and simmered until thick and lovely, about 20 minutes. Garnished with chopped cilantro before serving, Harry's Channa Masala is definitely "pukka" or as he is currently living in Japan he would say — Oishii!




Chickpeas soaked overnight in water and tea, then boiled for an hour

The chickpeas are cooked in a fragrant tomato masala for 20-30 minutes




Harry's Chana Masala
Serves 4-6
Recipe adapted from Felicity Cloake, The Guardian UK

8 oz dried chickpeas, soaked overnight 
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 large onion, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves
1 oz fresh ginger, minced
1 oz fresh cilantro
1 hot green chilli, finely chopped - seeds optional
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp chilli powder
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 14 oz tin plum tomatoes, mashed
1 1/2 tsp fine salt
1 tsp garam masala 
1 tbsp lemon juice


Place the dried chickpeas in large pot and cover with water twice the amount of chickpeas and bring to a boil. Cover and allow to simmer one hour. 

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and when hot, add the cumin seeds. Fry until aromatic, stirring, then add the onion and turn the heat down. Cook until golden brown, stirring regularly. 

Meanwhile use a pestle and mortar or stick blender to mash the garlic, ginger, cilantro and chillies into a paste, then place in the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. Then add the ground coriander, chilli power and turmeric plus a splash more oil if necessary, and cook for 2-3 more minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, chickpeas and some salt to taste. Bring to a lively simmer, then turn down the heat to medium low and cook for 20 minutes or until thickened.

Stir in the garam masala and lemon juice, then allow to cool slightly before serving scattered with the remaining coriander leaves.









Friday, March 18, 2016

Eggplant Bharta with Cilantro: A Classic Indian Dish






A popular dish in the Punjab and Rajasthan region of northern-western India, is Eggplant Bharta, also known as Baingan Bharta, which was traditionally made by gently roasting eggplants in the ashes of a fire. An unlikely cooking method for modern day cooks, many choose to roast them in the oven instead, until they become wonderfully soft and tender. Sautéed with chopped onion, ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin and green chilis, many recipes call for fresh chopped tomatoes, but I prefer using tomato paste instead, as it adds a more robust flavour to the final dish. Some cooks also discard the skin from the eggplant, but I think that the taste and presentation is greatly enhanced by coarsely chopping the whole eggplant, rather than mashing it, as with a traditional Bharta. A nutritional powerhouse, eggplant is also low in fat and sodium, and high in dietary fibre and vitamins. Add to that the tomato, green chillies, onion and aromatic blend of spices, you also have a classic and delicious Indian dish — and vegetarian too.




Indian Eggplant Bharta
Serves 6-8

2 large eggplant
1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 fresh hot green chili, seeded and finely chopped
3 tbsp cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 small can tomato paste
1 tsp salt
2 tsp lemon juice
1 tbsp ghee 
2 tsp garam masala


Preheat oven to 375°F. Trim the ends off the eggplant and cut lengthwise into eighths. Place skin side down on a baking sheet and roast for 1 hour, until the flesh is browned. Remove the cooked eggplant from the oven and place on a sheet of tin foil, overlapping the slices into a mound. Seal the packet tightly, and set aside. Using a small food processor, blend the onion, ginger and garlic into a smooth paste. Add 3 tablespoons of water and continue to blend for one minute. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Pour in the paste from the blender and add the turmeric. Sauté this mixture stirring frequently for about 20-30 minutes. The paste will not brown but will reduce slightly. Add the green chili and cilantro and stir for 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and continue to cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently.




















Thursday, March 17, 2016

Murgh Makhani: Luscious Indian Butter Chicken





Murgh Makhani, also known as Butter Chicken, is one of my favourite Indian dishes, and which one I'll always order when dining out at Indian restaurants anywhere in the world. Rich, buttery and creamy, the recipe is actually a dual recipe: one of Tandoori Chicken and Makhani Gravy, which comes from the word 'makhan' - Punjabi for butter. Called Murg Makhani in Hindi, Butter Chicken was invented by Kundan lal Gujral, the founder of Moti Mahal restaurant in Old Delhi. Famed for creating Tandoori Chicken — he was the first to bake chicken in a tandoor — he also invented Makhani gravy, "the mother of North Indian gravies", thus transforming Tandoori Chicken into delicious Butter Chicken, the unwavering star of the Moti Mahal repertoire. Legend has it that the cooks used leftover chicken juices in the marinade trays by adding butter and tomato. This sauce was then mixed with the tandoor-cooked chicken pieces, and the rest is culinary history, for Kundan not only changed the face of Indian cooking but also put Indian food on the international gourmet map. 




Murgh Makhani: Indian Butter Chicken
Serves 4

1 lb chicken thighs, boned and skinless
1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
1 tbsp fresh garlic, minced
1/2 tsp cardamom powder
1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves 
1 tbsp chili powder
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 1/2 cups Greek yoghurt
1 tbsp canola oil
1/2 tsp garam masala powder
1 tbsp gram flour (chickpea flour)
2 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp salt
3 tbsp melted ghee or butter

Makhani Masala Sauce:
2 yellow onions, finely chopped 
2 tbsp fresh grated ginger
1 tbsp fresh garlic, finely minced 
1 tsp fenugreek seeds 
15 cashew nuts, coarsely chopped
1 tsp chili powder 
1 cup tomato purée 
2 tbsp ghee or butter, or to taste
3 tbsp heavy cream, or to taste
salt to taste 
1 bunch fresh cilantro, washed and chopped for garnish


Cut the boneless chicken thighs into large bite-size pieces and pat dry. In a large bowl, combine the yoghurt, ginger, garlic, cardamom, fenugreek leaves, chili powder, garam masala, oil, gram flour, turmeric, lemon juice and salt, and mix well to form a thick consistency. Add the chicken pieces to the mixture and let marinate, covered and refrigerated overnight, or for at least 4-5 hours.

Meanwhile, soak the coarsely chopped cashews in some warm water to cover, for about 45 minutes. Then drain and process in a blender, adding 1 tablespoon of water at a time as needed, to make a smooth paste; cover and set aside.

Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Place the chicken pieces on a foil lined baking tray and cook 10 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces over and baste with melted ghee, cooking an additional 10 minutes until chicken is nicely browned. 

In a large skillet, add 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil over medium heat and once the oil starts to simmer, add the chopped onions and fry 30 - 40 minutes, until they're golden brown and well caramelized. Add the fenugreek seeds, and when they start to sizzle, add the ginger-garlic paste and fry, sprinkling a little water now and then as necessary, until the oil separates. Add the cashew paste, chili powder, tomato purée and cook 10 minutes. Season with salt to taste. 

To finish, add the butter, cream and chicken. Mix well and cook over low heat until warmed through. The Butter Chicken can now sit covered over low heat for a while, or taken off the heat and gently re-warmed when ready to serve. Spoon the Butter Chicken into a large bowl, preferably a 'Kadhai', a traditional Indian copper-plated bowl, and garnish with a splash of cream and fresh cilantro or Kasari Methi. Serve over basmati rice with lovely warm Naan bread or crispy pappadam on the side.

















Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Soupe de Poissons with Garlic Rouille & Croûtons






Soupe de Poissons is as much a provençal classic as its more famous cousin, bouillabaisse, but is less a fish stew than a fish soup or velouté. A traditional seafood dish on the French riviera, this silky smooth and delicious soup features a traditional selection of fresh white fish used to make a rich broth that is infused with fragrant aromatics, chopped tomatoes, fresh orange zest and then puréed. This is the perfect dish to make when you’ve got some prawn or lobster shells, and wondering what to do with them, as they lend a wonderful intense flavour to the soup. You can find versions of Soupe de Poissons all along the Mediterranean coast, from Marseille to Menton, and pretty well everywhere else in between. It's lovely served from its own tureen, with the traditional toasted croûtons and rouille on the side. It's always hot, spicy and satisfying, and makes an ideal precursor to a light main course of plainly grilled fish or seafood.




Soupe de Poissons with Garlic Rouille 
Serves 4

Rouille:
3 egg yolks
1/4 tsp of mustard
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp of white wine
1 tsp of saffron
1/2 tsp of cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups of olive oil
1 tbsp of lemon juice
salt, to taste
1 bunch chives, finely chopped, for garnish
4 green onions, finely chopped on the diagonal for garnish

Croûtons:
1 slim baguette, cut into 3/4-inch slices 
olive oil

Fish Soup:
2 lb mixed fish such as cod, haddock, snapper or sole
1/3 cup olive oil 
5 tbsp each onion, celery and leek, chopped 
5 tbsp fennel, chopped plus fennel fronds for garnish
3 garlic cloves, sliced 
1 orange, juiced plus 2 strips of the zest 
3/4 cup tinned chopped tomatoes 
1 small red pepper, de-seeded and sliced 
1 bay leaf; sprig of thyme; pinch of saffron 
4 oz un-peeled, cooked prawns 
1 pinch of cayenne pepper 
4 cups good quality fish stock 


For the rouille, place the egg yolks, mustard, and garlic in a food processor and blend all the ingredients for 30 seconds until it turns into a purée. Gradually add the olive oil to the puree while still blending, until you have a thick and smooth texture. When you have the desired consistency, place the saffron in the warm white wine and add to the mixture. Transfer the puree to a serving bowl and taste. Season with some salt and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Cover and set aside until needed.

For the soup, fillet the fish, removing any bones. Heat the oil in a large pan, add the vegetables and garlic and cook gently until soft but not coloured. Add the orange zest, tomatoes, red pepper, bay leaf, thyme, saffron, prawns, cayenne pepper and fish. Cook for 2–3 minutes, then add the stock and orange juice, bring to the boil and simmer for 40 minutes.

To make the croûtons, heat the oven to 400°F. Cut the baguette in 3/4-inch thick slices and lay them in a single layer on a baking tray. Brush lightly with oil on one side and dry for 10 minutes in the oven until crisp but not hard.

Purée the soup in a blender then pass through a sieve into a clean bowl, pressing out as much liquid as possible. Return the soup to the heat and season to taste with the cayenne, salt and pepper. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls, spread rouille onto each croûton and float one on each portion of soup, and garnish with a flurry of chopped chives and green onions. 






































Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Smoked Trout & Potato Salad with Lemon Crème





Smoked fish and new potatoes are a match made in heaven. And at less than 300 calories per serving, this easy and delicious Smoked Trout and Potato Salad recipe by Jamie Oliver is a real winner. Dressed with a delicate lemony crème fraîche, the cooked new potatoes are simply tossed with capers, thinly sliced red onion, fresh herbs and baby greens. Seasoned with salt and fresh ground pepper, the potato salad is lovely served in small mounds topped with flakes of smoked trout, and then garnished with a few extra capers and some chopped parsley, chives or fresh dill. Perfect served as a light lunch or elegant first course, this light and simple Smoked Trout and Potato Salad is delicious paired with a chilled bottle of Pinot Gris. 



Smoked Trout & Potato Salad with Lemon Crème
Serves 4
Recipe adapted from Jamie Oliver; photo © David Loftus

1 1/2 lb new potatoes, scrubbed
4 tbsp crème fraîche or low-fat Greek yoghurt
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 red onion, peeled and very finely sliced
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and roughly chopped
1/2 cup capers, drained
1 cup watercress, pea shoots or baby leaves
1 lb smoked trout fillets, skinned, boned and flaked
Maldon sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup fresh chives or dill, finely chopped


Place your potatoes in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer until cooked, about 15 minutes. Drain and allow to dry. When cool enough to handle, cut them in half or in thick slices, as you prefer. In a bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the lemon zest and juice. Add the potatoes, onion, parsley and capers, then snip the watercress into the bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. To serve, divide the potato mixture between four serving bowls in small mounds and flake the smoked trout overtop. Garnish with a little extra parsley, capers, chopped chives or dill.












Monday, March 14, 2016

Bent: Susur Lee Asian-Fusion on Dundas West






East of Trinity Bellwoods Park on the corner of Dundas and Markham is Bent, the newest member in Susur Lee's family of restaurants with Lee in charge of the kitchen, helmed by chef de cuisine Bryan Gunness, formerly of Lee, while sons Levi and Kai Bent-Lee step into the spotlight and oversee the dining experience. The space is designed by Lee's wife Brenda Bent, and partner Karen Gable, and is a stark contrast to Lee. The decor here is light, fresh and whimsically retro. The room is relaxed and playful detailed with warm pieces of vintage furniture, such as backgammon-style table tops and vinyl diner-style seating. Crazy touches like vintage Pachinko games — a Japanese arcade game — dot the walls and the terrarium-inspired hostess station add character and a dash of whimsy to the space. The menu features Asian flavours prepared with European techniques and international flavours prepped with Asian techniques. Plates are small and meant for sharing, and the menu includes offerings from both the hot kitchen and raw bar. The restaurant was positively booming on a Saturday night, and with a symphony of creative and consistently delicious plates coming out of the kitchen. With friendly attentive service and a lively atmosphere, it's not surprising it's buzzing every night.




Bent's Asian Fusion menu

Bent's fabulous Singapore Slaw

Miyasaka Yawaraka Junmai Sake

Chickpea Tempura Tofu "Lion Head" with Korean sweet and sour chili sauce, lentil mignonette, Asian marinated shishito peppers and golden sand

Pulled Beef Short Rib Crepes with braised apples, spiced tamarind sauce, vidal grape syrup and  sesame brittle

Lobster tacos with charred onion chipotle tomato salsa, mango, avocado in taro shells

Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke and Sweet Potato with pumpkin seeds and whipped goat cheese

Roasted Diver Scallop with Sundried Tomato Crust with caper and rasin compote, yuzu squash carrot purée, citrus tarragon butter sauce and dusted with powdered nori

Bent Banana Brownie with berry coulis and cheesecake mousse

Closeup of Banana Brownie

Coconut and Lemongrass Panna Cotta
















Kale & Tofu Salad with Sesame Dressing
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy of Chef Susur Lee, Bent

Sesame Dressing:
2 oz sesame paste
2.5 oz tamarind soy
4 oz rice vinegar
6 oz sugar
2.5 oz white miso    
4 oz mayo
1/4 tsp fresh wasabi
1/4 cup sesame oil

Salad:
1 lb fresh kale
3 tbsp olive oil
pinch of salt
1/2 large Asian pear, shredded
1/2 package silk tofu, sliced
2 wedges lemon 


Whisk all of the dressing ingredients together and set aside. Remove the ribbing from the kale, then soak in cold water for 10 minutes. Cut into bite size strips, then marinate the olive oil, two wedges of lemon and a pinch of salt. While it's marinating, begin to build the dish. Slice the tomato and place in the bottom of a serving bowl. Add the sliced tofu, then the kale, and on top of kale place the Asian pear. Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of sesame dressing and serve.



Bent's Asian Caesar Cocktail
Recipe courtesy of Chef Susur Lee, Bent

9 cups Clamato Juice
6 tbsp soy sauce
4 tbsp Sriracha 
3 tbsp chili/sesame oil mix
3 tbsp Worcestershire Sauce
8 tsp Hoisin
8 tsp fresh ginger juice
1 handful cilantro, washed and dried
2-3 limes and lemons
Caesar rim mixture, as you prefer


Combine the first 7 ingredients well then steep with fresh cilantro for 24 hours. Rub the rim of each tall glass with a lemon wedge and swirl into your preferred seasoning. Add 1 1/2 oz of Vodka and a squeeze of fresh lime juice over ice, then add 4 oz of the Asian Caesar mix. Garnish with a picked radish, lemon, like and fresh cilantro. Bent also serve this with an oyster on half shell balanced on top of the glass.



Susur Lee's Chinese Barbecued Pork
Serves 4-6
Recipe courtesy of Chef Susur Lee

1 1/2 lb pork tenderloin, about 2 to 3 
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped 
1 tbsp fresh minced ginger
5 strips of orange zest
2/3 cup rice cooking wine 
1/3 cup soy sauce 
1/3 cup pure maple syrup
2 tbsp dark Asian sesame oil


Trim the tenderloins of any excess fat or sinew. Combine the celery, carrot, onion, ginger, tangerine zest, sherry, soy sauce, maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil in a nonreactive baking dish and stir to mix. Add the tenderloins, turning to coat. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator, for 24 to 48 hours, turning occasionally.

Preheat the grill to medium-high. Remove the tenderloins from the marinade and blot dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade into a small nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil the marinade until thick and syrupy, about 5 to 8 minutes. When ready to cook, brush the tenderloins with the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil. Arrange the tenderloins on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the the pork is browned on all sides and cooked through, about 16 to 20 minutes. Start brushing the tenderloins with the reduced marinade after 10 minutes. When tested with an instant-read meat thermometer, the temperature should register at least 160°F when the pork is done.

Transfer the tenderloins to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut each tenderloin on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices. Fan the slices out on plates or a platter and serve with any remaining marinade.






















Friday, March 11, 2016

Spaghettini with Homemade Tomato Sauce & Basil






What better way to celebrate the full flavours of an Italian spring than with pasta bathed in homemade tomato sauce spiked with an aromatic punch of fresh basil. I love to find ways of using the homemade tomato sauce that we make each autumn, and this recipe is one of the more delicious ways to enjoy the fruits of our labour. Topped with a sprig of fresh basil and a flutter of grated pecorino, there is no better way to ward off the last vestiges of winter, and open our culinary arms to first hints of warmer weather.




Spaghettini with Homemade Tomato Sauce & Fresh Basil
Serves 4

1 package dried Spaghettini pasta
4 cups quality Tomato Sauce, preferably homemade like 'Mamma Styles'
1/4 cup red wine
1 bunch fresh basil, washed and dried
1 cup grated Pecorino


Start to boil water in a large pot. Place the tomato sauce and wine in a small saucepan over medium heat, and gently simmer until warmed through. Cover and keep warm. 

Add the dried pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, according to the manufacturer's instructions. While the pasta is cooking, julienne about 10 basil leaves and select 4 attractive sprigs for garnish. Drain the spaghettini into a colander, reserving 1 cup of pasta water, return the pasta to the pot and toss with the tomato sauce and chopped basil. Spoon a tablespoon or two of pasta water to the sauce and gently mix to combine. 

Serve the pasta as large nests in pre-warmed dinner bowls: using a large fork, twirl a portion of spaghettini and cradle in a large spoon or small bowl until it forms a nest-like shape, then place in each serving bowl. Garnish each 'nidi' with a sprig of basil and serve immediately with a bowl of grate pecorino on the side.