Wilk's Bar at Langdon Hall: Simply Sensational

Originally built as a Federal Revival mansion by the famous New York Astor family at the turn of the 20th-century, Langdon Hall is celebrating its 25th anniversary this season. Owned and operated by architect William Bennett and his wife, Mary Beaton, this Relais & Châteaux property is considered to be one of the top hotels in Canada. Just an hours drive from Toronto, I've been escaping to Langdon Hall since the early 90's and have spent many memorable weekends there with both friends and family, blissfully enjoying their spectacular spa, playing croquet on the crisp manicured lawns, relaxing in the tranquil secluded outdoor pool, exploring the impressive chef's kitchen garden, and of course indulging in Langdon Hall's exceptional award-wining cuisine. With the recent departure of Chef Jonathon Gushue last autumn, they're now blessed to have an extraordinary new executive chef, the superbly talented Jason Bangerter — one of my absolute favourite chefs.

The cozy club-like interior of Wilk's Bar at Langdon Hall

Since catapulting the kitchens of Auberge du Pommier and more recently, Luma at TIFF Lightbox into the culinary stratosphere, Chef Bangerter has now also transformed the cuisine at Langdon Hall to another level of glory within a very short period of time. With great hopes of being able to spend a full weekend revelling in Chef Bangerter's new menu, we made due with a quick lunch at Wilk's before heading on to Stratford for one the seasons Shakespearean productions. In addition to an inspired new menu, Wilk's Bar has also recently undergone an impressive makeover with comfortable new upholstered leather seating, plush celadon green carpeting and a creative selection of unique serving bowls, which set the stage for fabulous dishes such as Chilled Watermelon Gazpacho, Steak Tartare, Chickpea Fritter and Quinoa Salad with roasted, pickled and raw vegetables and Mac and Ontario Cheese with bacon. Bangerter sees coming to Langdon as part of his natural progression towards showcasing more local foods and working more closely with local farmers. Add with Langdon Hall's on-site kitchen garden, apple orchard, maple trees and honey production, Chef Bangerter is like an excited child in an edible playground. "With so much at my fingertips, the sky's the limit as to what can be done here. It’s a chef’s dream." 

Chef Jason Bangerter in Langdon Hall's kitchen garden 

photo © Langdon Hall

Wilk's Bar new menu

A miniature rose bush in a silver mint julep cup graces each small table at Wilk's

A basket of fresh baked bread from Chef Bangerter's Langdon Hall kitchen

A chilled glass of Côtes de Provence

Chickpea Fritter and Quinoa Salad with roasted, pickled and raw vegetables

Mac and Ontario Cheese with bacon

www.langdonhall.ca

Acorn Squash Soup

Serves 12

Recipe courtesy of Chef Jason Bangerter, Langdon Hall

"On chilly nights, I like to serve this soup with a garnish of braised meats — duck, rabbit or pork confit — with seared nuggets of foie gras, stewed chestnuts and brioche seasoned with winter spice. At home, I simply add a dollop of vanilla yogurt, pomegranate seeds and rustic baked black pepper croutons". JB

2 acorn squash
1/4 cup maple syrup
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 onion
1 carrot
6 cloves of garlic
1 half rib of celery
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tsp minced fresh ginger
1 cup dry white wine
12 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 bay leaves
1 half stick of cinnamon
6 sprigs each fresh thyme and parsley
2 sprigs fresh rosemary

Garnish:

Vanilla yogurt

pomegranate seeds

rustic baked croutons

Split the squash and remove the seeds. Drizzle with half of the maple syrup, a splash of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place cut side down in a roasting pan in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes, or until lightly caramelized and fork tender. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the cooked flesh and reserve.

Slice the onion, carrot, garlic and celery. In a medium stockpot, sweat the vegetables in butter and ginger until soft. Add the cooked squash and wine, and cook until the wine is reduced by two-thirds. Add the stock to an inch above the vegetables and add half a cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Tie the herbs in a tight bundle with string, add to the pot and cook for 20 minutes.

Remove the herb bundle and cinnamon, then purée the soup in batches in food processor until smooth and velvety, adding the remaining syrup and more stock if necessary. Strain and season with salt and pepper to taste. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed soup bowls and garnish with a dollop of vanilla yogurt, pomegranate seeds and some rustic baked black pepper croutons.

Golabki: Polish Cabbage Rolls with Beef, Pork & Veal

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls are the epitome of comfort food. Pork, beef and veal are mixed with rice or barley, wrapped in lightly blanched cabbage leaves then cooked in a rich tomato sauce until tender. Most Eastern European cuisines have their own version of a cabbage roll. For Czechs and Slovaks, it's holubky, while Serbs and Croatians refer to them as sarma. The Polish call them gołąbki, pronounced "gaw-womp-kee", which literally means 'little pigeons.' Although no pigeon is used in the recipe, the name could possibly be due to it's resemblance to the shape of pigeon breast. Legend has it that a Polish King fed his army with golabki before a key battle in 1465 and their victory was credited to this hearty meal beforehand which was said to have 'given the soldiers wings.' A labour of love, these little parcels are delicious in any language, and can be easily frozen for a soul satisfying feast on a chilly autumn day.

Blanching the savoy cabbage leaves in salted boiling water

Onions, garlic, thyme, paprika and cayenne pepper are sautéed over medium-high until the onions are golden, about 10-15 minutes

Long grain rice is then added to the mixture — I used a combination of long grain and wild rice

The rice is cooked for one minute with the onions

Beef broth is added to the saucepan, covered and allowed to simmer for 30 minutes

After 1/2 an hour, the rice has absorbed all the liquid

Ground veal, pork, beef are combined in a big bowl with an egg and fresh parsley, dill and tarragon

The meat mixture is combined well...

...then added to the rice and onions and mixed well

A spoonful of the stuffing is laid on top of each blanched cabbage leaf and rolled up into little parcels

A spoonful of tomato sauce is ladled in the casserole to prevent the cabbage rolls from sticking

Then each of the cabbage rolls are nestled together

More tomato sauce is generously spooned on top to completely cover the cabbage rolls

Baked at 350°F for an hour, the cabbage rolls are cooked through and wonderfully aromatic

Cabbage Rolls
Makes 18-24

1 head of savoy cabbage, cored
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
1/4 tsp caraway seeds, crushed
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
3 tbsp packed brown sugar
2 28 oz cans crushed tomatoes
1 small can tomato paste

Filling:
2 tbsp butter
3 onions, chopped into fine 1/8-inch dice
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp paprika
1/2 cup long-grain rice
1 1/4 cups beef stock
1 1/2 lb each lean ground pork, beef and veal
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
1 egg, lightly beaten
3/4 tsp salt
3/4 tsp pepper

Garnish:
sprigs of fresh thyme
fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if desired


Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Gently remove each leaf from the savoy cabbage and place in the boiling water until tender, about 3-4 minutes per leaf, then drain on a tea towel. Cut out and discard any coarse veins then set the leaves aside. 

In large saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add the onions, caraway seeds, salt and pepper and sauté for about 10 minutes, or until the onions are golden. Add the sugar and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bring to boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered until reduced, about 30 minutes.

For the filling, melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, thyme, paprika and cayenne pepper, and cook stirring often until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the rice, and cook, stirring for 1 minute, then add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for about 20 minutes or until rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Transfer to large bowl and let cool for 5 minutes. Stir in the ground meats, parsley, dill, egg, salt and pepper, mixing well to combine.

Spread 1 cup of the tomato mixture in a large oven proof casserole. To make the cabbage rolls, spoon 1/4 cup of the filling onto the centre of each cabbage leaf, fold sides over filling, and then roll up. Transfer the rolls, seam side down to the bottom of a 9"x13" casserole or glass baking dish. Pour the tomato sauce over the rolls and bake at 350°F until the filling is tender and cooked through, about 45-60 minutes.



NOTE: The Cabbage Rolls can be made ahead: 
Refrigerate: Bake rolls and let cool. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Reheat, covered, in 350°F oven for about 1 hour.
Freeze: Bake rolls and let cool. Cover with plastic wrap and overwrap with foil; freeze for up to 2 weeks. Thaw in refrigerator for 48 hours. Reheat, covered, in 350°F oven for 1 hour.

Cam's Clam Chowder: A Spring Creek Classic

Located in the quiet southern Ontario community of Claremont in north Pickering, Spring Creek Golf Club is a charming 9-hole executive golf course set amid a lush landscape of lovely mature trees, rolling greens and challenging water features, attractively landscaped with indigenous Southern Ontario wildflowers, grasses and cultivated shrubs. With four par 4's and five par 3's Spring Creek is a course designed for novice and intermediate golfers, which is ideally suited to my calibre of play, having just started playing last year. One of the highlights of our weekly golf game is meeting an hour or so before tee-off to have lunch in Spring Creek's flagstone clad clubhouse and chat about the week's past events. 

Spring Creek's oversized chalkboard in the dining room with highlights of the daily menu

Chef Cam's thick and creamy Clam Chowder

The healthy and delicious Toasted Tuna Sandwich

The menu, which is highlighted on an oversized chalkboard in the main dining room, features a tempting selection of delicious deli-style sandwiches ranging from Smoked Pastrami on Rye, Toasted Westerns and Tuna Salad to foot-long Whistledogs topped with melted cheese and crispy bacon served with optional sides of fresh cut French Fries or heaping baskets of golden brown Onion Rings. Each day, Chef Cam also features one of his daily specials, with none more popular than his famous Clam Chowder. Thick and creamy, Chef Cam's chowder is full to brimming with whole baby clams, finely chopped locally grown vegetables and hot morsels of diced potato. Fortified with a soul satisfying homemade lunch and with the promise of a beautiful afternoon on Spring Creek's picturesque course, all seems right with the world. Unless we happen to play abysmally, in which case we head back to the clubhouse where Cathy always has a big smile, offers encouraging words and has a cold beer waiting for us. Again, all seems right with the world, and we optimistically sign up for next week's tee time.

www.springcreekgc.com

Crêpes à GoGo: Yorkville's French Connection

Tucked away on the corner of Yorkville Ave and Yonge St, Crêpes à GoGo is a cozy Parisian-inspired boîte, where francophone crêpières prepare sweet and savoury Bretonne-style crêpes to a dedicated cult following six days a week, and there's a line up all the time! Two crêpe stations are in constant use, and all the crêpes are made to order — however the service is fast, the staff are even nicer so it's definitely worth the wait. Tres delicieux et vraiment Parisian, Crêpes à GoGo is the loving creation of effervescent and enigmatic Véronique Perez, or "GoGo" as she is affectionately nicknamed. Born on Île de la Réunion off the coast of Madagascar and raised predominantly in Paris, Véronique became a master crêpe chef purely by accident when her brother found a beautiful crêpe maker and brought it with him to Canada. When she couldn’t sell it, GoGo decided to put it to use and set up a crêpe stand at Toronto's Harbourfront. It was a roaring success. When a closet-size space on Bedford Ave came on the market shortly thereafter, she grabbed the opportunity and opened Crêpes à GoGo. Forced to move 5 years later when the building was being demolished, Véronique quickly found a new home at 18 Yorkville. "In Hebrew 18 is 'chai', which is 'life," and she said, "That’s for me!" 

The well worn and retro Crêpes à GoGo menu featuring Chef Véronique on the cover

With a tempting selection of over 30 sweet or savoury crêpes to choose from, there's something for everyone. The Parisienne with scrambled egg, swiss cheese, mushrooms, red onion and dill is a popular favourite, as well as the TomTom with scrambled egg, smoked salmon, tomato, sour cream and dill, and Crêpe Mademoiselle with goat cheese, red onion, smoked salmon and maple syrup. For dessert, many are hopelessly addicted to Véronique's signature Crêpe Tartinade made with her homemade Nutella-style sweetened hazelnut chocolate spread with thick slices of banana. Most the crêpes are presented in a distinctive square Bretonne-style fold within a small paper bag, whereupon the server tears down the paper bag's edges, looks you in the eye, and says, "Bon appétit." 

A small cup of Limonana is served to each guest, a refreshing mix of lemon juice, mint leaves and organic cane juice in a filtered water base

Caffeine-free, low sugar and low calorie, Limonana was created by Chef Véronique 

and is marketed across Toronto 

The charming francophone crêpière making our crêpe Parisien 

Le Parisien Crêpe with with scrambled egg, Swiss cheese, mushrooms, red onion and fresh dill 

The 'Tartinade' Crêpe made with Chef Veronique's signature nutella-style spread, 

and garnished with fresh banana

www.crepesagogo.com

Crêpes Mademoiselle

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy Véronique Perez, owner of Crêpes à GoGo

3 large eggs

1-1/4 cups whole milk

2/3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

1/3 cup barley flour, sifted 

1 tbsp granulated sugar

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 cup vegetable oil, plus more for greasing pan

7 oz each of crumbled goat cheese and thinly sliced smoked salmon

1/4 cup each of thinly sliced red onion and pure maple syrup

In small bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. In large bowl, combine the all-purpose flour, barley flour, sugar and salt, then slowly whisk the egg mixture into the dry mix until combined. Whisk in 1/4 cup of the oil, and if the batter is lumpy, pass through a sieve. Cover and rest at room temperature for 2 hours.

Heat a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high. Dip a ball of paper towel into the oil and rub into the pan. When hot, ladle 1/3 cup batter into the centre of the pan and quickly tilt and swirl pan to form an even layer. Cook until the top is no longer wet and edges are papery, about 60 seconds. Carefully flip the crêpe and continue to cook it until browned, another 30 seconds. Repeat until the batter is finished, stacking the crêpes on a large plate.

To make the Crêpes Mademoiselle, lay out 4 crêpes, wrapping and refrigerating the remaining crêpes for another use. Divide the goat cheese, salmon and onion into 4 equal portions. Working left to right, sprinkle the goat cheese to form a 2-inch band along the diameter of each crêpe. Top with smoked salmon and onion, and drizzle 1 tbsp of maple syrup over the filling of each crêpe.

To serve, fold the bottom of of the crêpe over the filling, bringing it 1-inch short of top to form slightly irregular half moon. Working from bottom, roll the filling over itself, and cut in half. Serve at room temperature.

Taverna Pazzo: Stratford's Calabrian Connection

Stratford has come a long way in the culinary world from its humble beginnings when the theatre festival started in 1953, housed in a giant canvas tent on the banks of the River Avon. Fuelled by talent from the Stratford Chefs School and the founders of venerable restaurants like the Old Prune, Rundles and Church, the city has firmly cemented its reputation as a major player on the culinary stage, luring dedicated theatregoers and food aficionados alike. One of the more recent star attractions on Stratford's culinary scene is Chef Yva Santini of Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria, a warm and friendly Italian brasserie perched on the corner of Ontario and Erie Street in the heart of the city. Serving some of the most innovative and authentically delicious Italian cuisine in Stratford, Chef School alumnus Yva Santini serves regional dishes, much like the rustic meals she enjoyed in her family's village of Calabria. 

Stratford Chef School alumnus Chef Yva Santini of Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria

Pazzo Taverna's bright and charming Italian farmhouse-chic interior 

Raised in an Italian-Canadian family, Chef Santini has always had a passion for cooking and an understanding of seasonality and terroir, so her menu features only local ingredients and regional produce from Stratford and Perth County for Pazzo's repertoire of delicious offerings. Sustainable seafood like oysters, crab and lobster make up the heart of Chef Santini's ever-changing menu joined with locally-sourced meat, house made tagliatelle, fettuccine, ravioli, gnocchi and hand stretched mozzarella. Inspired by her Italian heritage, the casually elegant farmhouse-chic décor of Pazzo is warm and inviting with elegant dark wood and leather seating, modern tableware, subdued lighting and playful architectural accents such as salvaged mirrors, doors and picture frames plus an enormous stuffed deer head that stands guard at the panelled entryway of the restaurant.

A stuffed stag head overlooks the dining room, and at Christmas time 

he's 'tarted up' with a red plastic nose

A quirky montage of ornate mirrors line the walls at Pazzo

The bar area at Pazzo Taverna

Pazzo's Calabria-inspired menu

Housemade bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar

A glass of Italian Pinot Grigio

Nestled in one of Pazzo's spacious corner leather clad booths and fortified with a glass of wine, we embarked on a sampling of Chef Santini's late summer dinner menu, starting with the artfully presented Celery and Parsley Soup with mini bacon arancini. Garnished with nasturtium petals and drizzled with parsley oil, the soup was delicious as it was spectacular. The Warm Octopus Salad was soft and tender with lovely tangy chopped Cerignola olives, warm roasted potatoes and fresh parsley for a simple and soul satisfying antipasti. The pasta dishes were the highlight, with the Lobster, Fennel and Ricotta Stuffed Ravioli with Tarragon Cream deserving a standing ovation. Nestled in a puddle of silky smooth tarragon cream, the striped ravioli were rich and delicate punctuated with the vibrant colour and crunchy texture of tiny Tobiko flying fish roe and fresh dill. Delicious and exquisitely presented, the dish was outstanding. So was the entire evening, from start to finish. With tickets to see 'Beaux Stratagem' at the Festival Theatre later that evening, we decided not to indulge in Chef Santini's Italian-inspied dolce of Torta della Nonna, Tiramisu or Crema Brusciata della Carmella, and settled for hot and steamy espressos instead. As with every Shakespearean play however, there's always a second act, and the next time we're in Stratford we'll surely return to Pazzo Taverna for an encore performance. Bravissima.

Celery and Parsley Soup with mini bacon arancini

Crushed Sweet Pea and Burrata Crostini

Warm Octopus Salad with potato, olives and parsley in a light marinade

Beet Salad with Goat Cheese, Sprouts and Pine Nuts

House Made Fettucini with Church Hill Farm Pork Ragu, gremolata and Parmigiano

Lobster, Fennel and Ricotta Stuffed Ravioli with tarragon cream and topped with Tobiko and fresh dill

A single espresso

www.pazzo.ca