Mercatto: Regional Italian Cuisine at Toronto & King

Nestled away on Toronto Street between King and Adelaide is Mercatto, our favourite neighbourhood Italian restaurant. One of four locations in the city, this restaurant was the original, and I believe the best. Warm and inviting with a smaller more intimate feel, the food is simple and delicious, and the staff consistently excellent. Regional Italian fare made with fresh seasonal ingredients and complimented by Mercatto's award-winning wine list from Italy’s diverse wine regions, makes dining at Mercatto a real pleasure.

The long communal table made of reclaimed wood, for larger groups

Mercatto's 'Enomatic' wine preservation system serves 24 wines 

by the glass, and they taste just as they were when first opened 

Mercatto's Q-water filtration system creates still and sparkling water eliminating 

purchasing, inventory, refrigerating and recycling of bottled water

Chef Neigel's new winter menu

Candle-lit tables with blue striped towel-style napkins and modern stemware 

set the mood during the evening at Mercatto

A deep green herbaceous olive oil and fresh bread

Crostini ai Funghi with foraged mushrooms, mozzarella di bufala and balsamic drizzle

Lamb Carpaccio with arugula, shaved ricotta salata and pistachios 

with a delicious mint crema

Seared Scallops with brussels sprout leaves, squash and truffled cauliflower

Garganelli with Rabbit ragu, pancetta, panna fresca and padano cheese

A sweet and delicious Moscato d’Asti with hints of peach and apricot,

compliments of the 'house'

Thanks again to our server Scott for another memorable meal, 

and to Davis for his wine recommendations and complimentary glass of Moscato

Executive chef Doug Neigel oversees Mercatto's group of restaurants

Simple, fast and delicious, executive chef Doug Neigel shares this recipe for Bucatini With Lobster, Tomato and Herbs, which showcases whole lobsters simmered in white wine and shallots, spiked with tomato and red chili with a light, flavourful chiffon of parsley, chives, chervil and mint. Having been executive chef at Malena and L'Unita in Yorkville, prior to joining Mercatto over a year ago, Neigel is now executive chef their four Italian eateries, including Trattoria Mercatto in the Eaton Centre. "The challenges at Mercatto are different. It’s more mental than physical. My office is a laptop and shoulder bag, and with four restaurants, I do a lot of walking." 

Bucatini With Lobster, Tomato & Herbs

Serves 4

Recipe by Chef Doug Neigel, Mercatto; photo Keith Beaty, Toronto Star

2  1 1/2-pound cooked lobsters

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot

1 fresh red finger chili, halved, seeded, thinly sliced

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup diced canned tomatoes

Salt + freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 lb dried bucatini or perciatelli

1/4 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs: parsley, chives, chervil and mint

Working over bowl to catch juices, remove lobster meat from shells. Cut lobster meat into 3/4-inch chunks. Add to the bowl with juices and set aside.

In large, deep fry pan, heat 1 tbsp oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and chili and cook, stirring, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and simmer 1 minute. Then add the tomatoes, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Cook the pasta according to instructions on package. Place the sauce over medium-low heat and stir in the lobster and its juices. Right before draining the pasta, reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Drain the pasta and add to the sauce along with remaining 3 tbsp of oil and herbs. Cook while stirring, until the pasta is well coated, about 1 minute. If the pasta seems dry, moisten with the cooking water to taste. Taste for seasoning and transfer to large platter. Serve immediately.

www.mercatto.ca

Presidents Day: A Political & Culinary American Portrait

Presidents’ Day is an American holiday celebrated on the third Monday in February. Originally established in 1885 in recognition of President George Washington, it's still officially called 'Washington’s Birthday' by the U.S. federal government. Traditionally celebrated on February 22, Washington’s actual day of birth, the holiday became popularly known as Presidents’ Day after it was moved in 1971 to create a long weekend in February for American families. While several states still have individual holidays honouring the birthdays of Washington, Abraham Lincoln and other figures, Presidents’ Day is now a day to celebrate all U.S. presidents past and present, and maybe a time to take a light-hearted look at some their culinary rather than patriotic passions.

President Obama is a fan of ice cream

It may be too early to predict whether President Obama is going to be one of the great foodie presidents, but the signs are good. Recently, Michelle Obama told Paula Deen that one of her husband's favourite foods aside from pizza, toasted cheese sandwiches and ice cream, is chili, which prompted endless unsolicited recipes to the presidential inbox. But aside from a craving for chili, the prez's plate also includes tons of veggies given the First Lady's campaign to get everyone in the country to eat better. The White House chefs source local, seasonal, and organic ingredients whenever possible. In fact, most of what winds up on the First Family's table is grown right there in the White House Kitchen Garden, including honey produced by the resident beekeeper.

LBJ enjoying a barbecued rib with his VP

Lyndon Johnson wasn't a gourmet either, yet he loved nothing more than barbecue, with pork ribs his special favourite. He was fond of entertaining the press and visiting dignitaries at his ranch in Texas, where he'd often serve giant Tex-Mex buffets. Sometimes playing a trick on his guests, he'd have the food made super-spicy, the way he liked it himself, and then stand back and smile as his "tender-tongued dining companions sputtered and turned red". The LBJ Library keeps a list of the foods he liked best, and includes chicken fried steak with mashed potatoes and gravy, spicy deer sausage served with scrambled eggs and grits, and anything made with peaches. Also, Johnson's love of Fresca was so deep that a soda dispenser was even installed in the Oval Office.

LBJ at one of his pork rib buffets at his ranch in Stonewall, Texas

Ronald Reagan will always be associated with jelly beans, which he started eating when he gave up smoking in the early 1960's. It may not have been his favourite food but he was certainly well known for them — licorice-flavoured ones, in fact. He kept a jar of jelly beans on his desk in the Oval Office and on Air Force One during his two terms, from 1980 to 1988. "You can tell a lot about a fella’s character by whether he picks out all of one color or just grabs a handful." His sweet tooth went beyond candy to macaroni and cheese, pumpkin pecan pie, ice cream, and a whole lot of chocolate: chocolate cake, chocolate chip cookies, and Nancy's fudge brownies. Reagan’s other favourite foods, according to the Reagan archives at the University of Texas, also included carrot cake, cornbread dressing, eggplant lasagna, meatloaf, split pea soup, monkey bread and hamburgers.

Chowing down at a McDonald's in Alabama - a big one for the Gipper.

As the governor of Arkansas, Bill Clinton was known as an enthusiastic eater of all sorts of unhealthy foods, often frequenting Doe’s Eat Place in Little Rock, where he often ate greasy jalapeño cheeseburgers and later, while on the campaign trail, loved to indulge in doughnuts and fried chicken. According to White House chefs, Clinton would "down five or six pork chops" at a fairly typical dinner, and despite allergies to flour and chocolate, was an especially avid eater of cake, once eating half a strawberry cake in one sitting. While in the White House, the President’s penchant for McDonald’s fast food was spoofed on Saturday Night Live, but since undergoing quadruple bypass heart surgery in 2004, Clinton became probably the most famous vegan in the world. 

Before his South Beach Diet, President Bill Clinton 

finds himself in hot dog heaven with Hilary

The Kennedy's however, were very sophisticated about food. "They liked to eat well, and they understood the meaning of good taste." Jacqueline stepped up the quality of White House cuisine with the help of Chef René Verdun, who was the chef at the White House during the Kennedy ‘Camelot’ years, a time when classic French cuisine reigned supreme. It turns out John Kennedy wasn't a big foodie, and often had to be reminded that it was dinner time - politics always took preference over food. But he was particularly fond of soup, and true to his New England roots, creamy New England Fish 'Chowdah' was the presidents favourite, along with corn muffins, baked beans and ice cream with hot fudge.

Jackie Kennedy & John F Kennedy in Hyannis Port, their waterfront property 

on Cape Cod along Nantucket Sound, 1959

But let's not forget about America's founding fathers. Beyond their legacy as revolutionaries and politicians, they were first and foremost a group of farmers, passionate about the land and the bounty it produced. Washington, Jefferson, and Franklin penned original recipes, encouraged local production of beer and wine, but when it came to food, Thomas Jefferson was at the leading edge. Gourmet, scientist, traveler, farmer, diplomat, Jefferson was truly a Renaissance man, with a love for native foods and passion for foreign fare. Back in his day, he introduced many foods to the U.S. from his travels abroad, importing oil from Italy and mustard from France. He also introduced vanilla and macaroni to the U.S. and owned the first ice cream freezer on record. It's even believed that Jefferson introduced french fries to America after travelling back from Paris, for at a White House dinner “potatoes served in the French manner” were on the menu!

Thomas Jefferson

Each president presents a unique culinary account of their time: some were gourmets relishing classic French cuisine, others were "down home" simple eaters, while others viewed food as fuel or opportunities for cultural exchange. George Washington will always be associated with cherries, Jimmy Carter with peanuts and JFK with "Ich bin ein Berliner," meaning "I am a jelly doughnut." Historically, favoured recipes from heads of state also gave a nation insight into their past, such as Jefferson's French-inspired Monticello White Bean Soup, JFK's Fish Chowder, Ronny's Mac & Cheese and George Washington's Eggnog. Together, they help illustrate a unique gastronomic portrait of some of the colourful personalities who have helped shape America's culinary landscape over the years. Enjoy.

Thomas Jefferson's White Bean Soup
Serves 8
Recipe: The History Kitchen; photo Monica @ Sweetbites


4 cups dried great Northern or cannellini beans
16 cups water
Salt and pepper
2 large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and diced
2 small turnips, trimmed, peeled, and diced
1 medium parsnip, trimmed, peeled, and diced
3 large ribs of celery with leafy green tops, chopped
2-3 tbsp unsalted butter

Garnishes:
4 slices rustic artisan bread, sliced 1/2 inch thick - traditional garnish
4 oz thick bacon or pancetta, cooked and crumbled
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 sprigs fresh parsley

Rinse and sort the beans, removing any stones or impurities. Drain the beans and put them in a large bowl, then cover by a few inches of cold water. Soak the beans overnight. 

Put the beans in a large pot and cover with 4 quarts of water and bring slowly to a simmer over medium heat, skimming any scum that rises to the surface. Simmer gently until the beans are tender, about 1 hour. Replenish the liquid with additional water as needed. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Add the diced carrots and turnips and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the parsnip and celery and continue to simmer until all of the vegetables and beans are quite soft, 15-30 minutes longer. Taste the soup and adjust seasoning, adding more salt or pepper to taste, if desired. Use an immersion blender to blend the soup until it reaches the desired texture.

Serve hot ladled into warm soup bowls and garish with a swirl of cream, a sprinkle of crisp bacon and garnish with a sprig of parsley. The traditional garnish, would be toasted buttered bread cut into bite-sized croutons.

George Washington's Christmas Eggnog & Hoecakes
Makes 6 quarts
Recipe by George Washington, Mount Veron

"One quart cream, one quart milk, one dozen tablespoons sugar, one pint brandy, 1/2 pint rye whiskey, 1/2 pint Jamaica rum, 1/4 pint sherry—mix liquor first, then separate yolks and whites of 10 large eggs, add sugar to beaten yolks, mix well. Add milk and cream, slowly beating. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and fold slowly into mixture. Let set in cool place for several days. Taste frequently."

Mount Vernon Hoecakes

Serves 8

Recipe by Nelly Custis, George Washington' step-granddaughter

"George Washington often rose before sunrise, always wrote or read until 7 in summer or half past seven in winter. His breakfast was then ready – he ate three small mush cakes swimming in butter and honey, and drank three cups of tea without cream".

8 3/4 cups white cornmeal

1/4 tsp dry yeast
1 egg
Warm water

Shortening or other cooking grease
Honey & Butter

In large container, mix together 4 cups white cornmeal, 1 1/4 teaspoons dry yeast, and enough warm water to give the mixture the consistency of pancake batter, probably 3-4 cups. Cover and set on the stove or counter overnight.Add cooking grease to a griddle or skillet and heat until water sprinkled onto it will bead up. In the morning, gradually add remaining cornmeal, egg and enough warm water to give the mixture the consistency of pancake batter, about 3-4 cups. Cover and set aside for 15 to 20 minutes. Pour batter, by the spoonful, onto the hot griddle. When the hoecake is brown on one side, turn it over and brown the other. Serve warm with butter and honey.

LBJ Pedernales River Chili
Serves 12
Adapted from Lady Bird Johnson

4 lb ground beef
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp chile powder, or to taste
1 1/2 cups canned tomatoes, cut up
2 to 6 dashes hot sauce, or to taste
Salt to taste


Cook the meat, onion and garlic in a Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring, until lightly browned. Stir in the oregano, cumin, chile powder, tomatoes, hot sauce, salt and 2 cups hot water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour, skimming off the fat as it cooks.

JFK's New England Fish Chowder
Serves 6
Recipe from the US National Archives

2 lb Haddock
2 oz salt pork, diced
2 onions, sliced
4 potatoes, diced
1 cup celery, chopped
1 Bay leaf, crumbled
1 quart milk
2 tbsp butter
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper


Simmer haddock in 2 cups of water for 15 minutes, drain and reserve broth. Remove bones from fish.
Saute diced pork until crisp, remove and set aside. Saute onions in pork fat until golden brown. Add fish, potatoes, celery, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Pour in fish broth plus enough boiling water to make 3 cups of liquid. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add milk and butter nd simmer for 5 minutes. Serve chowder srinkled over pork dice.

President Obama's Favourite Chili
Serves 6

1 large onion, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
2 -3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 lb ground beef
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp ground oregano
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp dried basil
1 tbsp chili powder
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 -3 tomatoes, depending on size, chopped
14 oz red kidney beans

Garnishes:

grated cheddar cheese, onion and sour cream

Sauté onions, green pepper and garlic in olive oil until soft. Add ground beef and brown. Combine spices together into a mixture and then add to ground beef. Add red wine vinegar and tomatoes, and let simmer until tomatoes cook down. Add kidney beans and cook for a few more minutes. Serve over white or brown rice. Garnish with grated cheddar cheese, onions and sour cream.

Bill Clinton's Favourite Chicken Enchiladas

Makes 15 enchiladas

Recipe by Bill Clinton

1 tbsp olive oil

2 4 oz cans green chiles

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 28 oz can diced tomatoes

2 cup onion, finely chopped

2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp dried oregano

3 cups shredded cooked chicken

2 cups sour cream

2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

15 6-inch tortillas - corn is best

In a large skillet over a medium-high heat, sauté the chillies and garlic in a small amount of oil. Drain the tomatoes, reserving cup of liquid. Break up tomatoes and add to skillet. Add the onion, 1 tsp salt, oregano, and reserved liquid. Simmer, uncovered, until thickened, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the chicken, sour cream, cheese, and remaining 1 tsp salt. In the same skillet over a medium-high heat, heat cup oil. Dip the tortillas in the oil until they become limp and drain well on paper towels. Fill the tortillas with the chicken mixture; roll up and arrange side by side, seam side down, in a 9x13x2-inch baking dish. Pour the tomato mixture over the enchiladas. Bake at 350°F for 20 minutes or until heated thoroughly.

Ronald Reagan's Favourite Macaroni and Cheese
Serves 4-6

1/2 lb. uncooked macaroni
1 tsp butter
1 egg, beaten
1 tsp dry mustard
1 cup warm milk
3 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese, reserving 1/4 cup for topping


Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a 2 quart casserole dish with non-stick coating. Cook macaroni in a pot of salted water until tender, drain. In a large mixing bowl, mix butter, egg, mustard and milk. Add cooked macaroni to mix and stir to coat. Add cheese, combine. Pour into casserole dish and sprinkle with additional shredded cheese. Bake for 45 minutes or until the custard is set and the top is crusty.

Smoked Trout & Potato Salad with Lemon Crème

Smoked fish and new potatoes are a match made in heaven. And at less than 300 calories per serving, this easy and delicious Smoked Trout and Potato Salad recipe by Jamie Oliver is a real winner. Dressed with a delicate lemony crème fraîche, the cooked new potatoes are simply tossed with capers, thinly sliced red onion, fresh herbs and baby greens. Seasoned with salt and fresh ground pepper, the potato salad is lovely served in small mounds topped with flakes of smoked trout, and then garnished with a few extra capers and some chopped parsley, chives or fresh dill. Perfect served as a light lunch or elegant first course, this light and simple Smoked Trout and Potato Salad is delicious paired with a chilled bottle of Pinot Gris.



Smoked Trout & Potato Salad
Serves 4
Recipe adapted from Jamie Oliver; photo © David Loftus

1 1/2 lb new potatoes, scrubbed
4 tbsp crème fraîche or low-fat Greek yoghurt
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 red onion, peeled and very finely sliced
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and roughly chopped
1/2 cup capers, drained
1 cup watercress, pea shoots or baby leaves
1 lb smoked trout fillets, skinned, boned and flaked
Maldon sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup fresh chives or dill, finely chopped


Place your potatoes in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer until cooked, about 15 minutes. Drain and allow to dry. When cool enough to handle, cut them in half or in thick slices, as you prefer. In a bowl, mix the crème fraîche with the lemon zest and juice. Add the potatoes, onion, parsley and capers, then snip the watercress into the bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. To serve, divide the potato mixture between four serving bowls in small mounds and flake the smoked trout overtop. Garnish with a little extra parsley, capers, chopped chives or dill.

Red Velvet Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Bright red, fluffy and super moist, this triple-layer Red Velvet Cake makes a dramatic and decadent dessert for Valentine's Day, especially when slathered with generous lashings of luscious cream cheese frosting. According to legend, Red Velvet Cake was invented in the 1950s at New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, however it was also a signature dessert at Eaton’s department store in the 1940s and 1950s, and employees who knew the secret recipe for the cake were sworn to silence. Raven Dennis of Cake Man Raven Bakery in NYC, who created this award-winning recipe below, claims Red Velvet Cake originated during the Civil War, and that southern ladies made it to keep their husbands home. The true origins of this dessert may be shrouded in mystery, but the popularity of this Valentine favourite is undeniable. 



Red Velvet Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
Serves 8-10
Recipe courtesy Cake Man Raven Bakery, NYC; Photo by Paula Deen

2 1/2 cups cake flour
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 tsp baking soda
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp salt
1 tsp cocoa powder
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tbsp all natural red food colouring, or more for desired depth of colour
1 tsp white distilled vinegar
1 tsp vanilla extract

Cream Cheese Frosting:
1 lb cream cheese
6 cups sifted icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans, divided


Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease 3 8-inch round cake pans with butter, then dust with flour, shaking off the excess, and set aside. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, and cocoa powder. In another bowl, whisk together the oil, buttermilk, eggs, food colouring, vinegar, and vanilla. Using a standing mixer, add the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until just combined and a smooth batter is formed. Divide the cake batter evenly among the prepared cake pans and place in the oven. Bake, rotating the pans halfway through the cooking, until the cake pulls away from the side of the pans, and a toothpick inserted in the center of the cakes comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

Remove the cakes from the oven and run a knife around the edges to loosen them from the sides of the pans. One at a time, invert the cakes onto a plate and then re-invert them onto a cooling rack, rounded-sides up. Let cool completely.

To make the frosting, beat the cream cheese in a standing mixer until smooth. Then add the sugar, vanilla and 1/2 cup of nuts, and mix until light and fluffy. Occasionally turn the mixer off, and scrape the down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Cover and refrigerate until the frosting is firmer before using.

To assemble the cake, place one layer, round side down, in the middle of a serving platter. Using an offset knife or spatula, spread some cream cheese frosting over the top of the cake. Carefully set another layer on top, round side down, and repeat. Top with the remaining layer, round side up, and cover the entire cake with the remaining frosting. Sprinkle with the remaining nuts. Chilling the cake for about half an hour will make the cake easier to slice.

P.J. O'Brien: The Most Charming Irish Pub in Town

Nestled away on the corner of Colborne Street and Leader lane, behind the King Edward Hotel in Toronto's historic St Lawrence Market neighbourhood is P.J. O’Brien, one of the most charming and authentic Irish pubs in town. With it's hardwood floors, copper top bar and white table linens, the handsome interior is trumped only by the old world charm and hospitality of Johnny, the pub's charismatic bartender. Always smartly dressed in black vest and tie, he keeps regulars topped up with premium tap lagers and ales like Guinness, Harp and Kilkenny, and makes everyone who walks in the door feel right at home.

Johnny, the friendly face behind the bar at P.J. O'Brien 

View from the dining room through to the sports bar 

where fans watch soccer every weekend

A regular weekend tradition, we've been coming to P.J. O'Brien for over 10 years, when Pat Quinn still held court every day, and could be found tottering down the street during the winter months decked out in a full-length brown mink, with matching Cossack-style fur hat, and accompanied by his loyal companion Guinness, an all-brown cockapoo. Not a Christmas went by without Pat Quinn buying us a drink on the house. Such random acts of kindness leave an impression. He was a lovely fellow with a heart of gold. 

A perfect pint of Guinness hand delivered by Johnny, P.J. O'Brien's 

charismatic white-jacketed bartender

What also keeps us coming back over the years, is P.J. O'Brien's traditional pub fare and Irish comfort food which are always reliable. Their melt-in-your-mouth Corned Beef and Cabbage is the biggest hit; old-fashioned Beef & Guiness Stew with with potatoes, turnips, parsnips, carrots and mushrooms is classic comfort food; and the Chicken Curry and Kilkenny Ale Fish & Chips with homemade lemon tartar sauce are hard to beat. Grilled Calamari Salad with baby greens, roasted bell peppers, olives, grape tomatoes, feta cheese and herb white wine vinaigrette are one of my low carb favourites, as well as their Classic Mussels Provencal with PEI mussels cooked in garlic, onions, celery, bell peppers, white wine and tomato basil sauce. P.J's also features a Daily Omelette, which they'll customize to your liking if you ask really nice.

A lovely chewy baguette and plate of butter arrive at the table with pints of Guinness

Ground Angus Steak Burger topped with blue cheese, mushrooms and 

sautéed onions served with Yukon fries

Corned Beef & Cabbage with mashed potato

Omelettes can custom ordered such as this one with mushroom, onion, spinach and broccoli

Beef and Guinness Stew with potatoes, turnips, parsnips, carrots and mushrooms

Grilled Calamari Salad  with baby greens, roasted bell peppers, olives, 

grape tomatoes, feta cheese and herb white wine vinaigrette

Featured on 'Restaurant Makeover' for the adjoining Pat Quinn Lounge, and chosen by the National Post as one of Canada’s best restaurants, P.J O’Brien’s continues to preserve the charm and Irish hospitality for which it's become renowned. They also feature a Saturday brunch menu with traditional favourites such as Eggs Benedict, Steak and Eggs and their full Irish Breakfast with eggs, homemade sausage, rashers of bacon, black pudding, baked beans and roast potatoes, as well as traditional Celtic music every Friday and Saturday night. A popular watering hole for the after work crowd, and with lineups around the block on St Paddy's Day, P.J. O'Briens is a touch of Ireland in downtown Toronto — and that's no Blarney.

www.pjobrien.com

Guinness Braised Lamb Shanks
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy Executive Chef Paul Pisa, Quinn's Steakhouse and Irish Bar

4 lamb shanks, each about 1 lb
Salt + ground black pepper to taste
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 each: onion, leek, celery stalk, peeled carrot, all cut into 2-inch chunks
2 each: peeled garlic cloves, sprigs thyme, sprigs rosemary, bay leaves
8 whole black peppercorns
1 plum tomato, quartered
2 cups Guinness or other stout, at room temperature
2 cups chicken or beef stock


Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the lamb, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the lamb to 4-inch deep casserole or baking dish — the meat should fit snuggly as possible. Drain off all but 2 tbsp of fat from the skillet, and add the onion, leek, celery, carrot and garlic. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring often, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. 

Add the vegetables to lamb along with thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, peppercorns and tomato and return the skillet to heat. Add the beer and stock, scraping up any brown bits. When the liquid is hot, pour it over lamb. Wrap the pan tightly with foil and bake in centre of preheated 325°F oven until the lamb is fork tender, about 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

Carefully transfer the lamb shanks to a platter. Strain the braising liquid into medium saucepan, discarding the solids. Wash the braising dish and return the shanks to the dish. Bring liquid to boil over medium-high heat. Skim off fat that rises to surface. Reduce liquid until salt level is to your taste. Pour sauce over lamb. Cover and return to oven. Bake until hot, about 15 to 20 minutes. Chef Pisa pairs these lamb shanks with barley root vegetable risotto, but you could also serve them with buttery mashed potatoes, rice or creamy polenta.