Skate Meunière with Lemon, Brown Butter & Capers

Meunière has long been a classic of French cuisine, proof that elegance can be found in the simplicity of a few fine ingredients: flour, butter, lemons, capers, salt, pepper, parsley. Those common ingredients and 10 minutes of your time are all it takes to create this simple, and simply divine dish. Sole Meunière, from which this dish was inspired, was undoubtedly immortalized by Julia Child who recalled her first meal in Rouen of oysters and sole meunière as a culinary revelation and life changing moment. 

Julia Child during one of her televised cooking shows

As she described in her Memoir, 'My Life in France', it was “perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley… I closed my eyes and inhaled the rising perfume. Then I lifted a forkful of fish to my mouth. The flesh of the sole was delicate, with a light but distinct taste of the ocean that blended marvelously with the browned butter… It was a morsel of perfection… It was the most exciting meal of my life.”

'My Life in France' by Julia Child

Considered a trash fish for a long time, skate has grown in popularity in recent years. An unusual looking flat kite-shaped fish with large wings, skate are related to rays — which they closely resemble — and are cartilaginous, which means that their skeletons are made of cartilage rather than bone. The meat is lean, delicate and sweet due to their diet of clams and mussels. Skate is also enormously versatile, as it can be poached, steamed, pan-fried, broiled and grilled, however only the wings are edible — but when plated, makes for a beautiful and exotic presentation.

At $4.99/lb, skate is a relatively expensive fish - I bought 2 wings for just over $5!

The skate is seasoned with salt and pepper then dredged in flour, shaking off the excess

A tablespoon of butter and olive oil is warmed in a non-stick skillet, into which the skate is sautéed for about 3 minutes per side until golden and cooked through

Pan-seared skate resting in the oven while making the Sauce Meunière

Skate Meunière is a simple dish. Indeed, it simply means fish prepared in the style of the miller’s wife — that is, dredged in flour. The fish is then pan fried and sauced with a classic combination of pungent capers, fresh squeezed lemon juice, mellow browned butter and bright accents of fresh parsley. A deceptively quick and elegant dish, easily prepared in under fifteen minutes, I love pairing Skate Meunière with a pillow of creamy mashed Yukon gold potatoes, sautéed brussels sprouts and a peppery arugula salad, garnished with olive oil, Maldon sea salt and a grind of fresh cracked black pepper. As Julia said, "You don’t have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces — just good food from fresh ingredients." She also said "with enough butter, anything is good!" 

The simplicity of a few fine ingredients: capers, caper berries, 

fresh lemon, parsley and butter

Capers and caper berries

Juice and zest of one lemon

Two tablespoons of butter cooked until it becomes nutty brown, 

known as beurre noisette

Capers, parsley and the juice and zest of a lemon are added to make the Sauce Meunière

Potato purée with cream, butter and nutmeg, seasoned with salt and white pepper

Brussels sprouts halved...

...then sautéed in a little butter to brown them

Arugula finished with a little olive oil, Maldon salt and fresh ground black pepper

Skate Meunière with Butter, Lemon and Capers
Serves 2

2 skate wings, about 1/2 pound each
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 lemon, juice and zest
2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed
6 caper berries, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp finely chopped flat parsley, plus more for garnish
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste


Preheat the oven to 200ºF. Pat the skate wings dry, season with salt and pepper then dredge in flour, shaking off the excess.

Warm a tablespoon of oil and butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, swirling to mix as the butter melts. When the oil is hot and starts to shimmer, place the skate fillets in the pan and sauté for about 3 minutes per side, until golden and cooked through. Using a large spatula, remove the wings from the pan and place on a foil lined baking tray, and place in the oven to keep warm.

Wipe the skillet clean and turn the heat to medium. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan, and cook while stirring, until the butter browns to a nutty colour (beurre noisette), about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the lemon juice, zest, capers, caper berries, parsley and continue to cook, stirring constantly until they're warmed through. Turn off the heat, transfer the skate to warmed dinner plates and spoon the sauce over the fillets. Garnish with some fresh parsley and serve with immediately with potato purée, sautéed brussels sprouts, arugula salad and a wedge of lemon. Bon appétit!

SUGGESTED WINE PAIRING: A medium-bodied flavourful white wine, such as a Gavi from Italy or a Pinot Blanc from Alsace in France.

Potato Purée
Serves 2

1 lb Yukon gold or russet potatoes
1/4 cup butter
1/8 cup warm milk
1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg


Peel and wash the potatoes and cut into evenly sized pieces. Cover with cold water, add a pinch of salt and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Strain and return to the warm empty pan and set over a gentle heat to dry off any moisture. Remove from the heat and carefully pass all the potatoes through a ricer back into the pan and add the butter. Over a gentle heat stir the butter into the potato until smooth. Add the warm milk and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and beat well until it's nice and creamy.

Cousin Diane's Brandy Butter Hard Sauce

Traditionally associated with the Christmas season, Brandy Butter has been around since the 1700s. This "hard sauce" is aptly named, for the butter and sugar only soften when they meet hot Christmas pudding, but it's also delicious with mince pie, bread pudding, fruitcake, gingerbread, as well as puddings, pies, cobblers and crisps. Not surprisingly, this decadent concoction is usually seen around the holidays for one important reason: it contains booze. My cousin Diane makes her sweet Brandy Butter Sauce by creaming butter and icing sugar with a good glug of brandy, but you could also use rum (rum butter), whiskey (whiskey butter) or sherry (sherry butter). She also adds vanilla and orange zest, but you could also add ground almonds and a pinch nutmeg or cinnamon for a more modern touch. Best of all, it’s incredibly easy to make and is absolutely delicious. And amazingly, no calories at all! 

Mom's Shrimp Cocktail

Whimsical Christmas crackers

Our outstanding Christmas turkey by Executive Chef Joseph Santangini,

from The Bird Key Yacht Club

Chef Joseph Santangini's Roast turkey, Mom's acorn squash & brussels sprouts, 

Guy's roast potatoes and Edward's bread sauce

Mom and Dad's Traditional Christmas Pudding and Diane's very yummy Hard Sauce

Diane’s Hard Sauce

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/3 cup butter, creamed

1 cup icing sugar, sifted

1 tsp vanilla

3 tsp brandy, to taste

1 orange, finely zested

Cream the butter in a standing mixer, then gradually add the icing sugar and beat until fluffy. Blend in the vanilla, brandy and orange zest. Cover and chill until needed. Conveniently, it keeps for months in the refrigerator. 

Guy's Roast Turkey & Vegetable Soup with Wild Rice

One of the best things about serving roast turkey at Christmas or Thanksgiving, is making a warm and comforting Turkey Soup, using the leftover carcass and turkey meat. The key to making any great soup is the flavour of the stock, and leftover roasted turkey carcass makes an extraordinary rich and delicious poultry broth. Turkey stock is easy to make too, since it's as easy as boiling up some water and cutting up a few vegetables such as carrots, celery and onions with a boquet-garni of parsley, thyme and bay leaves. 

Turkey stock made using a whole turkey carcass - bones, 

wings and some meat attached - bay leaves, carrots, celery and onions 

Simply chop up the carcass or pull it apart so it fits in a stock pot, and cover it with water by an inch or two. Add the vegetables and boquet-garni and bring to a simmer, skimming off anything that rises to the top. Leave the stock to bubble away gently for 3 to 4 hours, then strain it though a colander. If you chill it, the fat will congeal on the surface and can then be removed before using it for the Turkey Soup. 

Start making the soup by finely dicing six carrots...

To make the soup, start by chopping up some carrots, Italian parsley, celery and leeks, then sauté the leeks and celery with 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet until they become soft, about 6 minutes. Add them to the warm stock, then add the parsley, carrots and wild rice, and simmer about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables and rice are cooked through. Finally, some peas, corn and shredded turkey meat are added. Both the stock and soup freeze beautifully, so you can be enjoying the fruits of your labour for the chilly months to come.

...and a bunch of fresh parsley

Sauté the leeks and celery with some olive oil until soft

Shredded leftovers of the turkey

Guy's Roast Turkey & Vegetable Soup with Wild Rice
Makes about 16 cups

Turkey Stock:
1 Turkey carcass, with any good meat reserved
3-4 quarts of water, or as needed
3 bay leaves
2 large carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 celery stalks with fronds, coarsely chopped
2 yellow onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 parsley sprigs
3 thyme sprigs

Turkey Soup:
3 leeks, diced fine
2 tbsp olive oil
6 carrots, diced fine
4 celery staks, chopped fine
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1 1/2 cups frozen peas
1 1/2 cups frozen corn
1 cup wild rice, uncooked 
1 pot of homemade Turkey stock, strained

To make the stock, chop up the turkey carcass to fit in a large stock pot with a built in strainer if you have one. Add the bay leaves, carrot, celery with fronds and 2 onions. Add enough water to cover the carcass and vegetables by an inch or two, and bring to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, turn the heat down enough so it maintains a bubbling simmer, partially cover and let it bubble away for 3 to 4 hours, replenishing with additional water if the level gets too low.

Remove the carcass and vegetables from the stock pot using a strainer. Discard the vegetables and carcass, but save any good looking turkey meat. Meanwhile, keep the strained turkey stock at a gentle simmer in the stock pot until needed. 

In a skillet, sauté the leeks and celery with 2 tablespoons of olive oil until soft, about 6 minutes. Add to the warm stock, then add the parsley, carrots and wild rice. Salt and pepper to taste. Simmer about 30 minutes, until the vegetables and rice are cooked through. Finally, add the peas, corn and turkey meat and cook until they're heated through, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

The soup can be bagged and frozen for future use, or served hot, ladled into warmed bowls with a sprinkle of parsley and some lovely warm bread with a lump of good cheese.

Nigella Lawson's Chocolate Cherry Trifle

Inspired by the same sinfully sensational ingredients as a Black Forest Gateau, namely several layers of chocolate genoise, Kirsch flavored Morello cherries, whipped cream and chocolate shavings, Nigella Lawson has created a recipe for Black Cherry Trifle that is both beautiful to look at and achingly delicious to eat. I made this glorious 'pud' for a post Christmas lunch, and was given a thumping endorsement by all. My husband even raised his empty plate, and nodded approvingly — is there any better praise?

Nigella suggests cheating and buying some chocolate cake and then tweaking it to make it your own. "I'm all for making life easier, and what makes my life easier when I have a crowd coming for supper, is to buy something and then make it even better. Once liquor and fruits are added, no one will tell the difference!" So taking a culinary cue from Nigella, I bought two loaves of good quality chocolate cake from Summerhill Market, a jar of Bonne Maman cherry preserves, M'Lord pitted bing cherries and a bottle of cherry brandy to start the cakey bit of the trifle recipe.

Chocolate cake from Summerhill Market, Bonne Maman cherry preserves, 

M'Lord pitted cherries and McGuiness cherry brandy

Drain the pitted cherries

The chocolate cake is sliced into generous portions, about 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch thick, then slathered with heaping spoonfuls of cherry preserves, to make crude looking sandwiches, which are then squished into the bottom of a trifle bowl. Cherry brandy is then poured overtop of the cake, which is soaked up into one glorious boozy base. Nigella suggested using about 1/2 cup of brandy, but I tripled that and could have used a little more — the cake is very dense and forgives a multitude of brandy 'sins'. Nigella said "soak the cake", so that's what I did, with 1 1/2 to 2 cups of cherry brandy. If you wanted a non-alcoholic trifle, you could use the leftover cherry juice instead.

Slice the cake into thick pieces, generously spread with cherry preserves 

to make thick 'sandwiches' then press into the bottom of a trifle bowl

Although Nigella likes to make her own custard, I grew up with Bird's instant crème anglaise, and think it's great, so I cheated on this part of her recipe, but I did add the good quality chocolate and cocoa. If you have the time, and want to make custard from scratch, you can follow Nigella's recipe. Both versions take about half an hour to prepare.

I cheated with the custard and used Bird's instant powder, 

but found a lovely block of Callebaut milk chocolate to make the 

chocolate custard extra chocolatey, along with Fry's premium cocoa

4-ounces of grated Callebaut chocolate...

...melted in a saucepan, which took only a minute or two

Bird's custard powder, sugar and whole milk stirred over medium heat 

for about half an hour...

...until it becomes lovely and thick

Once the custard has thickened, it should be chilled to allow it to cool down. Placing a sheet of cling film over the custard will prevent it from getting an unsightly skin on top. When the custard is cold, pour and spread it over the chocolate cake layer in the trifle bowl, and then place in the refrigerator to set, covered in cling wrap overnight. When ready to decorate, softly whip some heavy 35% cream and gently spread a big dollop of thick whipped cream overtop of the custard, finish with a grating of good quality chocolate and serve. This is truly heaven in a bowl. 

Nigella's Chocolate Cherry Trifle
Serves 16
Modified from a recipe by Nigella Lawson

Basics:
2 chocolate pound cakes, about 12 oz each
1/2 cup black cherry jam - I used the whole jar, about 1 cup
1/2 cup cherry brandy - I used 1 1/2 cups and it was perfect!
2 cups drained sour cherries (Nigella recommends Morello) - I used 4 1/2 cups

Custard:
4 oz bittersweet chocolate (at least 70% cocoa), chopped
1 1/3 cups whole milk plus 1 tablespoon
1 1/3 cups heavy cream plus 1 tablespoon
8 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1/3 cup cocoa powder

Topping:
3 cups whipping cream
1 oz Bittersweet Chocolate grated


Slice the chocolate pound cake into thick pieces and spread generously with cherry jam, rather like making big jam sandwiches, and layer in the bottom of a large wide trifle bowl, squishing the cake down. Then pour over the cherry brandy so that the cake soaks it up. Nigella suggests using 1/2 cup but I used at least triple that and could have used more — trifle should be boozy! Nigella suggests topping with all of the drained cherries, being sure to push some against the side of the bowl, because that's what you'll see when the trifle is served. (In hindsight, I would save half of the cherries to layer on top of the custard, prior to serving). Cover with cling wrap and leave to macerate while you make the custard.

Melt 4-ounces of chocolate in a saucepan, over medium-low. Once the chocolate is melted, set aside while you get on with the custard.

In a saucepan warm the milk and cream. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cocoa in a large bowl. Pour the warm milk and cream into the bowl whisking it into the yolks and sugar mixture. Stir in the melted chocolate, scraping the sides well with a rubber spatula to get all of it in, and pour the custard back into the rinsed saucepan.

Cook over a medium heat until the custard thickens, stirring all the time. Make sure it doesn't boil, as it will split and curdle. The custard will get darker as it cooks and the flecks of chocolate will melt once the custard has thickened. And you do need this thick, so don't panic so much that you stop cooking while it is still runny. Admittedly, it continues to thicken as it cools and also when it's chilling in the refrigerator. Once it is ready, pour into a bowl to cool and cover the top of the custard with cling wrap to prevent a skin from forming.

When the custard is cold, pour and spread it over the chocolate cake layer in the trifle bowl, and leave in the refrigerator to set, covered in cling wrap overnight. (If you've saved half the cherries, top the custard with them at this point). When you are ready to decorate, softly whip the cream for the topping and spread it gently over the layer of custard, and grate some good quality chocolate over top, and serve. Thanks Nigella, for my new favourite dessert!

"Whatever the question is, the answer is always trifle"

- Nigella Lawson -

James Bond & Luma at TIFF Bell Lightbox

“Bond, James Bond.” From the moment Sean Connery uttered those famous words at the beginning of Dr. No, Agent 007 captured the world’s imagination. In the five decades since, the suave screen hero has not only headlined the most successful franchise in film history, he has made an indelible impact on the worlds of art, music, fashion, technology, travel, automotive design, and lifestyle. Making its North American premiere at TIFF Bell Lightbox following its unveiling at London’s Barbican Centre this past summer, Designing 007: Fifty Years of Bond Style is the largest and most comprehensive exhibition ever devoted to Bond, featuring costumes, props, models, gadgets, concept artwork, storyboards and other fascinating artifacts from the series.

Toronto's TIFF Bell Lightbox: view of the exhibit from 2nd floor Theatre level

The entrance portal to the Bond exhibit

Actual bathing suits worn by Halle Berry, Ursula Andress, Daniel Craig and Sean Connery

Halle Berry looking fabulous in 'Die Another Day'

Video montage of each of the Bond movie intros

An extraordinary collection of original Ian Fleming book jackets from the 1950s

The original Thunderball book jacket cover, with illustration by Richard Chopping

A maquette of Jill Materson from 'Goldfinger'

Ken Adams sketch for the volcano interior in 'You Only Live Twice'

Ian Fleming, who wrote each Bond novel in about 8 weeks

Signature Bond items featured in the exhibition include the steel teeth worn by Richard “Jaws” Kiel in The Spy Who Loved Me (1977); the Anthony Sinclair overcoat worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No (1962); the poker table from Casino Royale (2006) and multiple gadgets from Q Branch. Complemented by three accompanying film programmes, special guests and educational workshops, Designing 007: Fifty Years of Bond Style is an unprecedented exploration of the distinctive design, craftsmanship and style of the world’s most famous secret agent. But the exhibit only runs until January 20, 2013, so don't miss it — you'll be both shaken and stirred!

Luma is located on the second floor of TIFF Bell Lightbox on King St. West

Ideally located upstairs from the Bond exhibit, is Luma, Oliver & Bonacini's stylish and modern restaurant featuring the consistently excellent cuisine of Executive Chef Jason Bangerter. Bangerter’s original, imaginative cooking is the perfect complement to Luma’s warm, inviting dining room, designed with rich woods, leather and stone and outstanding floor to ceiling views overlooking Toronto's King Street West. 

The über talented and fabulous Chef Jason Bangerter

There are even theme cocktails and martinis centred around TIFF's Designing 007: Fifty Years of Bond Style, that Luma has created with an innovative cocktail menu with Bondian concoctions such as The Vesper Martini, made with Russian vodka, gin and lillet served with a twist; The 'Q', made with gin, lychee, aloe nectar and cucumber; and The Moneypenny, which I ordered, made with gin, St Germain elderflower liquor, grapefruit bitters, fresh squeezed lemon juice and finished with a twist of orange. I'm usually a purist regarding martinis, but The Moneypenny was not too sweet and a bit tart with a subtle elderflower background note. Very addictive.

The long bar at Luma, which sits between the cocktail lounge and main dining room

Our bartender busy mixing a lineup of Bond-themed martinis

Pouring our two cocktails

The Moneypenny Martini, made with gin, St Germain elderflower liquor, 

grapefruit bitters, fresh lemon juice and a twist or orange, 

and the Classic Vodka Martini — shaken not stirred!

The warm and inviting interior of Luma

The menu, with all it's hidden treasures

A basket of fresh baked bread and artichoke purée

A lovely glass of Italian Salvali Pinot Grigio from Venezia

Luma is one of my favourite restaurants. From the moment you arrive and are greeted at the door, Luma's professional, friendly and attentive service staff and Bangerter's exceptional cuisine, keep me coming back over and over again. The lunch menu changes regularly according to the season, with dishes like Warm Poached Trout Salad with heirloom carrots, lamb’s lettuce and dill dressing, Bison Carpaccio with mustard greens, pecorino, croutons and horseradish cream, Marinated Tuna with crispy shallots, baby fennel, yuzu and pepper jelly, and Fresh Goat Cheese and Roasted Beets with pickled shallots, goat’s milk yoghurt and toasted hazelnuts — it's an embarrassment of riches.

Bison Carpaccio with mustard greens, pecorino, croutons and horseradish cream

Fresh Goat Cheese and Roasted Beets with pickled shallots, 

goat’s milk yoghurt and toasted hazelnuts

Entrées feature Luma's exceptional Lamb Burger with tomato garlic jam, fried onions, goat cheese and frites, Pan Seared Scallops with white beans, jerusalem artichokes, rosemary and sherry vinaigrette, Calf's Liver with buttermilk mashed potatoes, cipollini onions, watercress, bacon and apple, and the ever-popular Steak Frites with red wine braised shallots and truffle parmesan fries. There's also the Daily Flick which features the Chef's special dish of the day. A small bowl of warm marinated olives or marcona almonds with sea salt and spanish olive oil are perfect for sharing, and a lovely way to start the meal with one of the bar's signature Bond martinis.

Pan Seared Scallops with white beans, jerusalem artichokes, haricots verts, 

rosemary and sherry vinaigrette

Steak Frites with red wine braised shallots and truffle parmesan fries

The dessert menu is not to be missed, with sweet temptations offered on a plate or in glass, such as Caramel Pumpkin Tart, with spiced orange syrup and toasted cinnamon ice cream; Sticky Toffee Pudding with whisky butter sauce, apple compote and chestnut ice cream; Luma Chocolate Bar, soft dark chocolate, banana and peanut butter ice cream; or the outstanding Pistachio Financier, warm and moist from the oven, with cardamom poached pear, gianduja chocolate mousse and almond milk ice cream — our server Livka recommended this dessert and it was indeed exceptional. There's also a selection of Canadian and imported cheeses which are served with warm artisan bread and local honey, and sumptuous special coffees like Café Nanaimo which is a cappuccino spiked with lamb’s spiced rum and godiva white chocolate liqueur. Just roll me home.

Pistachio Financier, warm and moist from the oven, with cardamom poached pear, 

gianduja chocolate mousse and almond milk ice cream

A delicious macchiato was the warm end to a delicious meal

Just before we left, Chef Bangerter came over to our table to say hello. I had met him a couple of times, but more recently at the St Lawrence Market Chef Series, where he created a sumptuous 5-course meal. Two JBs in one day — James Bond and Jason Bangerter — what a killer combination!

www.oliverbonacini.com/Luma.aspx

Niagara Gold Grilled Cheese Sandwich
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy Jason Bangerter

1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch each: chopped thyme leaves, black pepper
4 oz Niagara Gold cheese, at room temperature, thinly sliced
4 thick slices sourdough, country-style or other artisan bread
2 oz thinly sliced prosciutto
1 cup packed baby arugula
2 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature 

Bring the cheese to room temperature. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, garlic, thyme and pepper; spread mixture on one side of each bread slice. Place half of the cheese on one bread slice; top with prosciutto, arugula and remaining cheese. Top with remaining slice of bread, mayonnaise side down. Butter both sides of the sandwich. Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Cook sandwich, turning once, for 5 minutes on each side or until golden brown and cheese is melted, adjusting heat as necessary to prevent burning. Cut the sandwich in half and serve with pickled grapes, sweet grainy mustard, potato chips and fresh pressed grape juice. Transfer to cutting board. Let stand 1 minute before cutting on diagonal.