Friday, February 17, 2012

Monkfish with Cauliflower Purée & Wilted Spinach





Poor man's lobster. That's how this fabulous fish is often described. The meat from the Monkfish tail is sweet, delicate and quite firm, and has a mild shellfish flavour because crustaceans are in fact, a large part of the monkfish's diet. Often served as a whole filet, Pan Fried Monkfish Medallions are an elegant way to prepare this delicious misunderstood fish. Served on a pillow of puréed cauliflower and a nest of wilted spinach, the medallions are dredged in some seasoned flour, and quickly pan fried in a little olive oil and butter. Garnished with a drizzle of tangy Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, this easy recipe is big on flavour, relatively low in calories and makes an elegant and refined entrée.


Pan Fried Monkfish Medallions with Cauliflower Purée & Wilted Spinach
Serves 2

Cauliflower Purée:

1 head of cauliflower
1/4 tsp salt & white pepper to taste
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp whole milk or cream

Lemon Caper Butter Sauce:
4 tbsp butter
1/2 lemon, juiced
1 lemon, zested
2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers, rinsed and minced

Monkfish:
1 Monkfish tail
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter
3/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp salt and white pepper to taste
1 bunch of fresh baby spinach



Break the cauliflower into florets and steam until very tender, about 10-15 minutes. Once cooked, place the cauliflower in a cuisineart blender with butter, salt and pepper, and process until very smooth. Add 1 tbsp of milk or cream to loosen the purée, if necessary. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and keep warm over low heat until required.

For the sauce, melt butter over medium heat in a small saucepan. Add the juice of half a lemon, zest of one lemon, minced capers and chopped parsley, and stir to combine. Set aside and cover, over low heat.

In a large pot, cook the spinach with a little water until just wilted. Let the water cook off, then add 1 tbsp of butter, a little salt and white pepper, and allow the spinach and warm through.

Rinse monkfish and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each fillet crosswise into 1/2-inch thick medallions. Dredge the fish in a seasoned flour mixture of flour, paprika, salt and pepper, coating all sides and shaking off the excess. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat-high and cook the monkfish medallions until lightly browned and crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and allow to rest in a warm place, or tent under foil until ready.

To plate the dish, spread 2 cups of cauliflower purée into the centre of each warmed dinner plate, shaped into a long puddle. Top the purée with wilted spinach, then place the monkfish medallions overtop. Garnish with a light drizzle of lemon caper butter sauce, and finish with a final flourish of sauce around the perimeter of the plate. Serve immediately.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Pizzeria Libretto: Neapolitan Pizza on Ossington






We're blessed with a plethora of authentic Neapolitan pizzerias in this city, and one that's received it's fair share of media buzz is Pizzeria Libretto on the hip, newly-gentrified Ossington strip. Pizzeria Libretto is the brainchild of chef Rocco Agostino and his partner Max Rimaldi, who are also behind the much-praised Italian wine bar Enoteca Sociale. Rimaldi teamed up with Agostino to open the pizzeria a few years ago, and it’s been booming ever since with lineups almost every night. The name comes from the traditional Neapolitan way of thinking about pizza: it should be thin enough to be folded in half into a little book, or a 'libretto', and it appears Libretto wrote the book on Neapolitan pizzas — they're reputed to be the very best in the city.




Pizzeria Libretto's 'long bar'


A large chalkboard highlights the days special libations


For the uninitiated, true Neapolitan pizza is characterized by its thin, chewy, lightly blistered crust, made from Italian '00' flour, which is traditionally flash-baked in 90 seconds in a domed, wood-burning oven that's fired to 900°F. The toppings are simple: a true Neapolitan pizza must contain San Marzano tomatoes, which come from the foot of Mount Vesuvius in Naples, extra virgin olive oil, fresh cow's-milk or Fiore di Latte Mozzarella which is brought in fresh daily, and a little fresh basil, depending on the mood of the pizzaiolo.


Chef Rocco Agostino and his partner Max Rimaldi


Like any transplanted dish, the further the distance, the greater the risk of loss of authenticity, which is one of the reasons why so many pople love Pizzeria Libretto. Chef Agostino and Max Rimaldi are committed to creating a truly genuine pizza of Neapolitan proportions, as approved by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the governing body that preserves this time-honoured Italian culinary tradition. Using only the highest quality ingredients, made in a traditional manner with old world equipment, Libretto's pizzas are baked quickly in Libretto's their 5000-pound wood burning oven which was hand made in Naples by a third generation pizza builder, and shipped across the ocean because of Agostino and Rimaldi's firm belief that making real Neapolitan Pizza can only be achieved with this type of oven. 


Libretto's handsome 5000-pound oven hand built in Naples by a 3rd generation pizza builder



There are many different styles of pizza, but it’s the passion that's put behind the pizza, and the ingredients that are laid on top, that make the difference. A few simple and flavourful ingredients that cook quickly in the Neapolitan style, ensures the optimum freshness. While the menu is primarily focused on pizza, there is a fine selection of antipasti plates, insalate and bruschetta. Using only the freshest local produce, Libretto makes much of their own salumi and import some of the best cheeses and tomatoes straight from Italy on a daily basis. The daily prix fixe luncheon menu is a great value at $15 which includes a choice of two starters, two pizzas and choice of two dolce.




In addition to a great wine list, Libretto also features Peroni beer


The lightly-floured fried calamari is tender and well-seasoned, served on a base 
of nutty Catalan-style Romesco sauce with lashings of pesto oil


Beet Caprese Salad with Ontario Fiore di Latte, Cookstown seedlings and finished in Olive Oil


Arugula Salad with sliced pear, walnuts and shaved Piave cheese in a sherry vinaigrette


Another reason for the restaurant’s undying popularity is the wine list, which offers a plethora of Italian bottles under $50. Nine pizzas line the menu, with traditional choices like Margherita and Ontario Proscuitto for those who crave something familiar. Otherwise, there are Duck Confit with bosc pear and mozzarella, Berkshire Ham and Wild Mushroom varieties, and interesting combinations like the House-Made Sausage pizza, topped with caramelized onion, mozzarella and chili oil. The Grilled Eggplant is a delicious choice for the vegetarians, prepared with tomato, basil, chili flakes and ricotta salata.



The Margherita with Libretto's tomato sauce, fresh basil and "doppio" mozzarella

Libretto's special pizza of the day — a Margherita with house-made sausage and chili oil

Our server Adam pouring an Affogato, vanilla gelato drowned in hot espresso

Chocolate gelato — almost as good as mine!


Pizza has garnered even more culinary attention than ever these days, with the city's cross-town Neapolitan 'pizza war' between Ossington Avenue's pioneering Pizzeria Libretto, and their east-end rival, the fabulous Queen Margherita Pizza — a long time favourite of mine. The comparison was inevitable. Both are committed to serving Naples-style pizza, and to most customers the differences between them amount are minute. Libretto's dough rises for three days to develop deep, fermented flavour, as opposed to Margherita's two-day process. As much as I love QMP, I did find that Libretto's crust was a little crisper in its centre. However, Queen Margherita Pizza is a brighter more interesting space and much quieter than Libretto, plus it takes reservations, and has a new menu every day, which Libretto does not. Also, what QMP doesn’t use, is picked up by Second Harvest. The irony is that both make fantastic pizza and the city is all the richer for having so many culinary choices.


Libretto serves their own purified water to help reduce their carbon footprint


One of the great things about Italian food is that it's not pretentious in any way. It's simple, accessible, and hearty. It's about bringing people together. And Libretto struck each of those chords — the food was delicious, portions were generous, and the atmosphere warm and friendly. In fact, as we were leaving one of the junior servers caught our eye and said "Have a great day. And thank you for coming". Simple words, but what a difference it makes.





221 Ossington Avenue





Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Lobster Newburg: An American Classic








There are few seafood dishes as rich and luxuriant as Lobster Newburg. An American classic, it was among the most popular dishes served in the American Pavilion at the Paris Exposition of 1900. But where did this dish originate and who on earth is Newberg? 




Paris Exposition circa 1900


The most popular theory on the history of the dish is that it was created by Delmonico's Restaurant in New York City, when the recipe was brought to chef Charles Ranhofer by a West Indies sea captain named Ben Wenberg. It was an immediate hit, especially with the after-theater crowd, and owner Charles Delmonico honoured the capatain by naming the dish Lobster à la Wenberg. But unfortunately, Wenberg and Delmonico had a huge falling-out, and the restauranteur took the dish off the menu, restoring it only by popular demand.


Delmonico's NYC

So with a typographical slight-of-hand, Delmonico changed the spelling from 'Wenberg' to 'Newberg,' and Lobster Newberg was born. Rich, creamy, saucy and delicious, this easy Lobster Newburg recipe is lusciously prepared with fresh or frozen lobster mixed with cream, butter, tomato, fragrant spices, cognac and a dash of sherry, ladled over buttery puff pastry shells or a bed of Spanish rice, and finished with a garnish of snipped chives. An elegant entrée for any special occasion, it can also easily be tweaked with shrimps, scallops or any other fine seafood that would honour old Captain Wenberg.



Lobster Newburg
Serves 4

8 puff pastry vol-au-vents pastry shells
4 tbsp flour
1 tbsp paprika
1/2 tsp curry powder
1/8 tsp grated nutmeg
pinch of cayenne
7 tbsp unsalted butter
1 shallot, minced
2 cups cream
2 tbsp tomato paste
1/4 cup brandy
1/4 cup sherry
2 lobster tails, shelled and chopped into bite-size pieces
1 bunch of chives; half chopped and half left whole


Combine the flour, paprika, curry powder, nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, in a small bowl and set aside. Melt 4 tbsp of butter in a large saucepan over low heat and add the minced shallot. Cook 3 minutes until it begins to brown. Add the flour mixture and stir well until well mixed with the butter. Then add the sherry ad brandy and whisk until smooth. Meanwhile, in small saucepan, bring the cream and tomato paste to a low simmer over medium heat, being careful not to let it come to a boil. Add the hot cream mixture to the flour gradually slowly, whisking constantly until the mixture is creamy and thick. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside.

Bake pastry shells according to manufacturer's instructions and set aside.

In a sauté pan, melt the remaining 3 tbsp of butter over medium heat and when it starts to bubble, add the lobster and 1 tbsp of chopped chives. Cook until the lobster are just cooked through, then add enough Newburg sauce to cover, and simmer 2 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add some more cream and adjust seasoning.

Serve the Lobster Newburg over the vol-au-vents pastry shells and garnish with chopped and whole chives.





Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Seared Sesame Ahi Tuna with Ponzu Sauce





Light, healthy and delicious, this delicate Seared Sesame Ahi Tuna showcases the lean, clean flavours of a beautiful piece of sashimi-grade ahi tuna. Like a good piece of steak, ahi tuna requires very little cooking time, if any at all. The secret is searing the tuna so briefly that it toasts the sesame seed coating yet keeps the centre quite rare. Cooked with restraint, the tuna will melt in your mouth. Delicious served with a bowl of tangy Asian-inspired Scallion & Ginger Ponzu Sauce, some mixed greens and a few kappamaki picked up from your local sushi counter, and you'll be enjoying a lovely and easy romantic dinner for two tonight, and celebrate Valentine's together, rather than in the kitchen.


Scallion & Ginger Ponzu Sauce



Seared Sesame-Crusted Ahi Tuna with Asian Sauce
Serves 4

For the sauce:

1 scallion, finely sliced on the diagonal
1/3 cup Ponzu sauce
1 tsp fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1/8 tsp dried crushed red pepper flakes

For the tuna:
2 tsp vegetable oil
2 lb fresh tuna, in one thick piece
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp white sesame seeds
2 tbsp black sesame seeds

For the salad & dressing:
1 tsp of toasted sesame seeds
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp Mirin wine vinegar
2 tsp sugar
1/8 tsp dried crushed red pepper flakes
salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 avocado, sliced
2 cups of mixed spring greens
1/2 cup bean sprouts
Kappamaki cucumber rolls - optional garnish

In a small bowl, whisk together the scallions, ginger, red pepper flakes and Ponzu sauce and set aside. 
For the salad dressing, toss all of the first six ingredients together in a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper, and set aside until ready. 

Trim any dark areas from the tuna, then cut into four equal pieces, trimming them a little if necessary to make four rectangular logs, and sprinkle with salt. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Mix the white and black sesame seeds in a shallow plate. Season each piece of tuna on both sides with salt and then press the tuna into the sesame seeds, coating the fish on all sides. Add the tuna to pan and sear for a few minutes on each side, depending on the thickness, making sure to keep the center rare, about 3 minutes on each side, or cook longer if you want it well done. 

Remove the cooked tuna to a cutting board and set aside. Clean out the pan with a paper towel, since sesame seeds will fall off the tuna and start to burn. In the now clean pan, heat up more vegetable oil and repeat with the rest of the tuna. 

To serve, slice each piece of tuna across the grain into 1/2" thick pieces, slightly fanning out the slices, and garnish with green onions and a small bowl of Scallion & Ginger Ponzu Sauce on each serving plate. Serve with three kappamaki and a mound of salad greens, sprouts and avocado, with a drizzle of dressing and a dusting of sesame seeds. 

Monday, February 13, 2012

Love Potion No. 9: Valentine Chocolate Martini






Valentine's Day just isn't complete without chocolate, so what better way to celebrate the evening than by sharing a sexy cocktail with the person you love? But finding the perfect cocktail is like finding true love — it requires a lot of persistence and leaves you a bit woozy at the end. So why not combine the two with the perfect love potion for Valentine's Day — a rich, creamy and sinfully delicious Chocolate Martini. Whether you're raising your glass to true love or drowning your sorrows in it, this decadent chocolatey cocktail will help with both. But be warned, these wicked Chocolatini recipes are dangerous, so be sure to remember these famous words by Dorothy Parker...

"I love a good martini, but two at the very most. 
Three I'm under the table. Four I'm under the host".



Rich & Creamy Chocolate Swirl Martini
Serves 2

1 oz vodka
1 oz Kahlua
1 oz Bailey’s Irish Cream
1 oz dark creme de cacao
1 oz Godiva chocolate liqueur
1 oz light cream

Rim Garnishes:
Chocolate syrup
Grated dark chocolate or fruit sugar

Chill two martini glasses in the freezer for 10 minutes. 
For the flavoured rim, grate some dark chocolate and 1/4 cup of creme de cacao into two separate shallow plates. Dip the rims of the cocktail glasses into the chocolate liqueur, then dip into the chocolate shavings. Then, using a squeeze bottle of chocolate syrup, create decorative swirls inside the glasses, and return the glasses to the freezer for a few minutes to chill and set. 

For the Chocolate Martini, combine the vodka, creme de cacao and white chocolate liqueur in a cocktail shaker with 3 ice cubes. Shake well, add the half & half and stir. Replace the top of the shaker and strain into the chilled cocktail glass. Add a few pinches of chocolate shavings for garnish.



White Chocolate Martini
Serves 2

3 oz vanilla vodka
3 oz Godiva white chocolate liqueur
1 oz Amarula Cream

Shake all of the ingredients vigorously in a cocktail shaker and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with shaved dark chocolate.



Ed's Nutella Martini
Serves 2

4 oz vanilla vodka (Stolichnaya is the best, but if you cant find vanilla, just add a drop of vanilla essence)
2 oz white créme de cacao
1 oz Frangelico

Stirred each of the ingredients gently over ice & strain into a chilled martini glass. Don't shake, or else it'll look cloudy! Garnish with a chocolate-coated almond on a cocktail stick to look like an olive. You use dark chocolate or white with a hint of cardamom, which has green food dye, for the full effect.







Friday, February 10, 2012

Ottolenghi's Veggie Cookbook: 'Plenty'





Israeli-born chef Yotam Ottolenghi's new cookbook, Plenty, draws many of the recipes from The New Vegetarian, his weekly column in London's Guardian newspaper. One of the hottest chef-foodwriters in the UK at the moment, Ottolenghi is an acclaimed British restaurateur with four enormously successful London based Ottolenghi restaurants, and now two celebrated cookbooks. In his most recent cookbook Plenty: Vibrant Vegetable Recipes from London's Ottolenghi, all the recipes are true to the Ottolenghi form: vibrant, daring and highly original with fabulous photography by Jonathan Lovekin. 




Yotam Ottolenghi


Yotam's food inspiration comes from his Mediterranean background and his unapologetic love of fresh and seasonal ingredients and exposure to widespread and eclectic culinary influences. Not a vegetarian himself, his approach to vegetable dishes is completely original and wonderfully innovative, based on freshness and seasonality, and drawn from the diverse food cultures represented in London. A vibrant photo accompanies every recipe in this visually stunning book, with mouthwatering photography by Jonathan Lovekin, an extraordinarily talented lifestyle and food photographer based in London.




Aunt Yona's Leek Fritters with Greek Yoghurt & Cilantro Lemon Sauce

Marinated Buffalo Mozzarella in basil, lemon & olive oil with tomatoes


Yotam Ottolenghi's inventive yet simple dishes are inspired by his Israeli childhood, but rest on numerous other culinary traditions, ranging from North Africa to Lebanon, Italy, and California with a focus on the Mediterranean basin, providing inventive yet honest food, anything from Yogurt Flatbreads with Barley & Mushrooms to Castelluccio Lentils with Oven-Dried Tomatoes and Gorgonzola, made only from the best basic raw ingredients. 


Mushroom and Herb Polenta


The emphasis is on veggies but chapters also include pulses, cereals, pasta, polenta, couscous and a final chapter on fruit with cheese. As Yotam himself describes in the introduction, "At the centre of every dish, at the beginning of the thought process is an ingredient one ingredient, not just any ingredient but one of my favourite ingredients. I tend to set off with this central element and then try to elaborate on it, enhance it, bring it out in a new way, while still keeping it in the centre, at the heart of the final dish". 



Avocado, Quinoa and Fava Bean Salad


I've rarely come across a cookbook that has inspired me from the moment I picked it up. The cover is mouthwateringly sumptuous, and each and every page is chocked full of unique, inspiring dishes, exquisitely photographed and drawn from an inspiring wealth of culinary traditions. The challenge now is to take the time to make each and every one of these amazing recipes, and I can hardly wait!






Sweetcorn Soup with Chipotle & Lime
Serves 6 
Recipe courtesy of Yotam Ottolenghi 

3 tbsp olive oil
4 shallots, peeled and chopped
5 garlic cloves, chopped
3 celery sticks, cut into 1/2" dice
1 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp grounder coriander
3/4 lb peeled pumpkin or butternut squash, cut into 1/2" dice
2 bay leaves
3 lime leaves, or a few shaved strips of lime zest
4 cups water
1 chipotle chilli, soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes
4 sweetcorn cobs, kernels shaved off
3/4 cup soured cream
3 limes, halved
1 handful torn coriander leaves
Salt

Heat the oil in a medium pot, add the shallots, garlic, celery, ground cumin, ground coriander and a little salt, and sauté on low heat for 12 minutes, to soften the vegetables.

Add the pumpkin, bay leaves, lime leaves and water. Squeeze the water out of the chipotle chilli, remove and discard the seeds, chop roughly and add to the pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the pumpkin is soft. Add the corn and cook for five minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to lift out about half of the vegetables, and remove and discard the bay and lime leaves. Blitz the remaining soup until smooth, then return the vegetables to the pot and bring to a light simmer. Add a little water if you find it too thick. Stir in half the soured cream and taste for seasoning.

Divide the soup into six bowls, squeeze the juice of half a lime into each portion, drop about a tablespoonful of soured cream in the middle and scatter over the torn coriander leaves.






Thursday, February 9, 2012

Reds Bistro & Wine Bar: Wine Country Cuisine







Located at First Canadian Place, in the heart of Toronto's financial district, Reds Bistro & Wine Bar brings a refined West Coast flavour to Adelaide Street West. A SIR Corp signature restaurant, the behemoth behind Jack Astor’s, Far Niente and Alice Fazooli's, this modern and stylish two-storey hot spot includes a bustling wine bar on the main level, favoured by Toronto wine lovers and the Bay Street enclave to take advantage of one of the city's most extensive selections of wines by the glass, with up to 80 bottles open at a time. The seating in front of the window fills up fast, so you have to arrive early, or hang out at the long marble bar and be prepared to swoop.



The Reds wine bar


Upstairs, you're transported to Executive Chef Michael Steh's acclaimed wine country-inspired cuisine, highlighting the freshest seasonal ingredients and culinary specialties inspired by wine regions around the world. The massive wine list offers something for every palate and even if you’re not sure which wine will best compliment your meal, each dish comes with two expertly chosen wine recommendations.




Dining amid the wine


Heralded as one of Toronto’s rising young chefs, and a committed supporter of local producers and farmers, Chef Steh has worked in some of the city's most notable restaurants, including Canoe, Biff's, Susur and Splendido. Raised by Slovenian-born parents, he's had the privilege of learning first-hand how to press wine, can fruit and smoke meat, methods he employs today to make Reds kitchen distinct. Steh acknowledges these early experiences, and time honored European traditions are the backbone of his culinary talent.



Executive Chef Michael Steh weaves his magic with intricate compositions 
and tightly focused flavours, inspired and driven by local seasonal ingredients


Red's interior is stylish and contemporary with accents of natural stone, warm woods and muted earth tones, with soaring ceilings and an entire wall dedicated to an open two-storey wine cellar. The spacious dining room has an inviting and comfortable ambiance, set in conversation-friendly clusters with most of the room showing off, what would normally be the magnificent floor-to-ceiling view over bustling Adelaide Street, but which unfortunately is covered these days due to construction in the area. 


The upstairs Dining Room at Reds



Conveniently located near the Canadian Opera House, and with tickets to see 'Love From Afar', we decided to give the restaurant a try and sample Red's Winterlicious menu. Appetizers included a rather flat and flavourless Cauliflower Soup with madras curry, poached mussels and smoked coconut; Baby Spinach Salad with coffee cured smoked duck, ice wine poached cranberries and toasted pine nuts in a citrus vinaigrette; and Crispy Smoked Ham Hock and Pigs Head Terrine with pear and apple sauce and rocket salad, which was tasty but not what we expected for a terrine. We didn't realize crispy meant deep-fried. Oh well, they can't all be winners.




Cauliflower Soup with madras curry, poached mussels and smoked coconut, 
which looked promising but was very disappointing. I couldn't finish it.

Smoked Ham Hock and Pigs Head Terrine


Entrées on the menu included Chicken Pot Pie with fontina cheese and glazed root vegetables in a crunchy mustard potato and mushroom sauce; Herb Crusted Ontario Trout with braised lentils and savoy cabbage, with watercress in a truffle and burnt butter vinaigrette, which was very good; Bacon Wrapped Beef Tenderloin with sweet potato purée, Vidalia onion rings and horseradish cream; and Roasted Bay Scallops with apple vanilla chutney and salt candied pumpkin seeds on a pumpkin risotto.


Herb Crusted Ontario Trout with braised lentils and savoy cabbage, with watercress in a truffle and burnt butter vinaigrette

Chicken Pot Pie with fontina cheese and glazed root vegetables in a crunchy 
mustard potato and mushroom sauce


Pastry chef Sue Flemming is behind the Winterlicious dessert menu, featuring temptations like Liquid Chocolate Cupcake with a caramel peanut butter and jam frosting and fried banana; a Panna Cotta Tasting of Nutella, Preserved strawberries and lemon flavours; and the Chefs Artisanal Cheese Selection of Farmhouse maple whiskey cheddar served with house-made cherry preserves and toasted hazelnut bread — all with suggested dessert wine parings. 




Panna Cotta Tasting: Nutella, Preserved Strawberries and Lemon

Chefs Artisanal Cheese Selection of Farmhouse maple whiskey cheddar served with house-made cherry preserves and toasted hazelnut bread


With all of the really great restaurants in the area, I'm glad we gave Reds Bistro a try, but I don't think we'd rush back. Although the service was pleasant, we weren't overly impressed with the food. It seemed more like an upscale Jack Astor's with an expensive wine list. However, with a choice of three appetizers, four entrées and three desserts for just $35 before tax and gratuity, the Winterlicious menu was a good way to sample Chef Steh's cuisine before heading off to the opera. You never know, there still might be a standing ovation before the night is over.