Grano Ristorante: Great Wine, Food & Natalie MacLean

Ben McNally and Roberto Martella have a beautiful relationship. Every Autumn, Ben McNally Books and Grano Ristorante host a wildly popular author series that features many well celebrated writers — events that combine great food, great wine and lively conversation. Natalie MacLean, an accredited sommelier, wine writer and journalist, was in Toronto this week for one of Ben McNally's wine and food pairing events at Grano, which featured a lovely multi-course meal with matching wines and a personally signed copy of MacLean's latest book, Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines, which has just hit bookstores.

Natalie McLean and her family, son Rian and husband Andrew

MacLean, a charming and vivacious sommelier - and Canadian - is the only person to have won both the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation and the M.F.K. Fisher Award for excellence in Culinary Writing from Les Dames d’Escoffier. She has also written for Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Wine Enthusiast, The National Post, President's Choice magazine and many other publications. Her first book, Red, White and Drunk All Over won numerous awards and sold 50,000 copies in Canada alone, a book that has been described as 'A Year in Provence' meets 'Kitchen Confidential' then goes 'Sideways'. And now her second book, Unquenchable, has just been released in time to be gift-wrapped for any oenophiles on your Christmas list. 

Natalie MacLean's new wine book - 'Unquenchable'

The author evening was well attended, a sell-out event on a Wednesday night. After a brief introduction by Ben McNally, MacLean read entertaining excerpts from her new book, in between food courses and wine pairings, that included a delightfully fresh and surprisingly good Santa Margherita Prosecco that started the evening. Standing firm against wine snobbery, MacLean insists that good wine doesn't have to be expensive, and the selection of wines served during the meal illustrated her point well, with none of the bottles exceeding the twenty dollar mark.

Natalie reading selected excerpts from her new book, 'Unquenchable'.

A 2010 Henry of Pelham Riesling from Niagara was served with the antipasto - generous rings of flash fried calamari - followed by a selection of reds that were paired with Grano's second course, a simple pasta Farfalle Tricolore al Pomodoro followed by the secondo, Angelo Bean Berkshire Sausages served witha side of Italian black lentils. The reds included a 2008 Fontanafredda Barbera Bricco Tondo, a 2009 Casa Planeta Syrah, and 2008 Masi Campofiorin. 

Natalie took time to chat with guests and oblige this humble blogger with a photo

MacLean's travels have taken her around the globe on a quest to find fabulous wine bargains, but in the meantime, have also provided great fodder for her popular books, which feature character sketches of obsessive personalities, stories of well known winemakers, and her own experiences travelling through eight countries, visiting 312 wineries and imbibing 15,267 wines. Even though she has sipped, spat and slogged her way through the international wine scene, she never takes wine, or herself, too seriously. In fact, tongue in cheek, MacLean credits a long line of hard drinkers, from whom she descends, for her stamina and ability to drink like a fish! 

Grano's ever charming Roberto Martella and my friend Ben McNally, 

owner of Ben McNally Books

It's thanks to the warm relationship between Ben McNally and Roberto Martella that author events like this take place over a meal and glass or two of wine, enriching this city with opportunities to get up close and personal with celebrated writers. Ben McNally Books sponsors many events during the year, from 'Author Brunches' at the King Eddy, 'Readings' by selected writers at Ben McNally Books at 366 Bay Street, as well as entertaining 'Author Evenings' like this Natalie MacLean event at Grano. It was a lovely treat, and one that I have to thank my friend Barb and her brother Greg Symons of The Symons Group, for inviting me to join their illustrious table of fellow foodies, wine connoisseurs and celebrity hounds!

2035 Yonge Street, 

Toronto  

416-440-1986

www.grano.ca

Wild Mushroom & Gruyère Cheese Bread Pudding

This wonderfully rich and savoury Wild Mushroom and Gruyère Cheese Bread Pudding absolutely bursts with the pungent aromas of nature's impressive bounty of fresh cremini, shiitake and porcini mushrooms. Sautéed in a fragrant elixir of butter, garlic, onions and thyme, the wild mushrooms are submerged in rich and creamy cheese-custard soaked bread, and baked until golden brown. This dish is a great main-course for vegetarians at Thanksgiving or served as a side dish with roast turkey, chicken or prime rib of beef, and delicious napped with a fragrant demi-glace, Madeira sauce or rich, brown gravy.

Savoury bread puddings are rather like a stuffing, but more luscious and custardy. Best yet, they can be made ahead and even taste better if they've had time to soak overnight. Simple, versatile, and convenient, bread puddings use only a few key ingredients — bread, eggs, milk, and tasty garnishes — all items we usually have on hand. They make excellent breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner dishes, main courses or sides, vegetarian or not, and adapt to a huge range of flavours. Unleash your imagination and your pantry, and go wild — mushrooms that is!

Wild Mushroom & Gruyère Cheese Bread Pudding

Serves 8

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

5 large eggs

1 1/2 tsp salt

3/4 tsp black pepper

2 oz dried porcini mushrooms

1/4 cup boiling water

1 1/4 lb cremini & shiitake mushrooms, cleaned with stems removed

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 cup grated Gruyère cheese

3 3/4 cups stale french bread, crusts left on, cubed

3/4 tsp fresh thyme, chopped

5 tbsp butter

1 tbsp chopped parsley, for garnish

2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Heat the oven to 375°F. Soak the porcini mushrooms in 1/4 cup of boiling water for 15-20 minutes. Whisk together the cream, eggs, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and set aside.

Lift the porcini mushrooms out of the water, careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom, and chop them into a fine dice. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve. 

Clean and thickly slice the fresh mushrooms. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large sauté pan, and cook the onions and garlic over medium heat until browned. Add thyme and cook for 3 minutes more. Add the fresh and reconstituted porcini mushrooms, and cook over medium high heat for 10 minutes, or until browned and quite a lot of moisture has cooked off. Stir in parsley, and remove from heat. 

Whisk eggs, cream, cheese, porcini liquid, salt and pepper in large bowl. Add the bread and combine thoroughly using your hands. Gently squish the bread and egg together, and keep squishing until the bread is throughly soaked. Stir in the mushroom mixture and pour the whole lot into a pre-greased 9"x12" baking dish, copper casserole or small ramekins, for attractive individual servings. Cover and let the mixture stand for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 or 5 hours, or even overnight. 

When ready to cook the bread pudding, dot the surface with 3 tablespoons of butter and bake until the pudding is golden brown and bubbly, about 40-50 minutes, and slightly less for the ramekins. Test for doneness by inserting a knife in the centre. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving warm with a light sprinkle of chopped parsley and parmesan cheese for garnish.

Trattoria Mercatto: New Eaton Centre Location

The latest addition to the Mercatto family which already has three locations in Toronto, is the newly opened Trattoria Mercatto in the Eaton Centre, having taken over the old City Grill Restaurant location overlooking Trinity Square. The new space is unique compared to the other Mercatto trattorias, featuring an open warehouse-style aesthetic that feels more industrial-chic, like something one would expect to find in the Distillery District or the new revolution of post-industrial eateries in Vancouver's hip Gastown neighbourhood.

Mercatto's second storey loft with dramatic light fixtures, 

and floor to ceiling windows overlooking Trinity Square Park

Mercatto's emphasis on simplicity, authenticity and quality has served them well. Consistently relaible food and excellent well trained, knowledgeable and friendly staff ensures a satisfying dining experience each time. Coincidentally, Mercatto's Toronto Street location is our 'local Italian', so when the new Eaton Centre trattoria opened up the street, we had to give it a try. 

The long Mercatto Bar featuring a tapas-style menu

The menu, like the interior, is unique to the Mercatto branding, with a more tapas-rich bar menu, expanded Insalate e Antipasti offerings and new Panini section. Ever present are the delicious pizzas, pastas and extensive selection of Indigenous Italian wines by the glass, arguably one the of best values at this price range in the city.

Part of Mercatto's wine selection abutting the stairs up the loft space

Looking down on the Bar from the loft space, and overlooking the collection of 

Italian varietal in the 2-storey wine shelves

I started with a glass of Trebbiano d'Abbruzzo, a delicate and quiet white wine with a fresh youthful nose, as I perused the menu and nibbled on a crisp pencil-thin stick of Grissini, complimentary on each table. I decided on the Tagliatelle with almond pesto, semi dried tomatoes and fresh arugula, and my friend Chris, the Grilled Orata with guanciale, fingerling potaoes and swiss chard.

Tagliatelle with almond pesto, semi dried tomatoes and fresh arugula

Grilled Orata with guanciale, fingerling potaoes and swiss chard

Both the pasta and the grilled fish were wonderfully fresh and full of flavour, prepared using only a handful of quality ingredients that captured the essence and authenticity of each dish. Since the closest culinary competition, if you can it that, is Baton Rouge, Mercatto's new Eaton Centre location is sure to be a booming success. But stay tuned...with the newly opened Joey around the corner, they'll have some new culinary competition, which is good news for everybody, especially for all of us looking for a little sustenance while doing a little 'retail therapy' during the upcoming holiday season.

http://trattoriamercatto.ca

Chickpea Fritters with Grilled Shrimp & Lemon Mayo

Whenever a new LCBO magazine appears at my local wine store, there's usually a mad rush to pick up the latest issue to see what culinary delights are hidden inside. There have been times that I've waited too long to pick up an issue, and have had to stumble my way through what's left — the french edition. The BBQ Issue that appeared at the LCBO this past August, featured a delicious Chickpea Fritter with Grilled Shrimp & Lemon Mayo appetizer that combined two of my favourite things — chickpeas and tiger shrimp. Not only does this savoury prawn topped fritter look fabulous, it tastes great.

Served as an appetizer, the fritters and tiger shrimps should be quite a small, delicate and easy bite-size hors d'oeuvre, perfect for popping in your mouth in one 'go'. But actually, I prefer serving these Chickpea Fritters with Grilled Shrimp as a first course, going 'over the top' with a full size tiger prawn — 6 to 8 pieces per pound — on a larger, thick and crispy chickpea fritter, with a more generous dollop of mayo and onion sprouts and served over a small bed of mesclun lettuce, for a finer presentation. 

Chickpea Fritters with Grilled Shrimp & Lemon Mayo
Makes 18 appetizers
Recipe courtesy of LCBO

Mayonnaise:
1⁄2 lemon
2 tsp lemon zest
1⁄2 cup olive oil mayonnaise
1⁄2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1⁄2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
1⁄4 tsp salt

Fritters:
1 15 oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour
3⁄4 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 large egg
1 tbsp butter, melted
1/3 cup whole milk
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp chopped parsley or cilantro
1 tbsp chopped thyme
1⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper
Olive oil for frying

Shrimp:
18 large tiger shrimp, peeled and deveined
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
1 tbsp olive oil
1⁄4 tsp ground cumin
Pinch cayenne
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Onion sprouts, or finely shredded green onion for garnish

For the mayonnaise, place the cut side of the lemon down in a non-stick frying pan over medium-low heat. Cook for 5 minutes, or until surface of lemon has caramelized. Remove from heat. Squeeze the juice into a food processor. Using a spoon, remove the pulp and add it, plus the lemon zest, mayonnaise, and parmesan to the lemon juice. Pulse until smooth. Stir in pepper and salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to assemble.

For the fritters, in a medium-sized mixing bowl mash the chickpeas with a potato masher until some small chunks remain. Stir in garlic, parsley, thyme and cayenne. Add egg, butter and milk to bowl and whisk to combine. In a separate medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder and salt. Pour chickpea mixture over flour mixture and stir until no streaks of flour remain.

Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Using wet fingers, add a generous 1 tbsp of dough at a time to the pan, then form the fritters into flattened disks roughly 1⁄2 inch thick. Fry them in batches adding more oil when necessary, 2-3 minutes per side, or until golden and crisp. If making ahead, cover, refrigerate and warm when ready to serve.

Preheat indoor or outdoor grill to medium-high. Toss shrimp with lemon juice, olive oil, cumin, cayenne, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange on grill and cook, turning once, for 4-5 minutes, or until pink and cooked through.

To assemble, place a small dollop of lemon mayonnaise on each fritter. Top with a single shrimp and garnish with onion sprouts.

Salmon, Dill & Smoked Fish Chowder

Dill is the perfect partner in this light and delicious salmon and smoked fish potato chowder. Chunky and full of flavour, surprisingly this recipe doesn't use cream or butter, so it's lighter in calories than the traditional version, yet hearty and robust enough to be completely satisfying. Celery and onion are first sautéed with a little olive oil, then a dash of flour is added to thicken the sauce. Chicken stock and milk provide the light base for the broth, a small of dice of potato anchors the chowder, the fresh salmon and smokey mackerel provide the punch, and a handful of dill towards the end seals the deal. Refreshingly light and enormously flavourful, this Salmon, Dill and Smoked Fish Chowder satisfies the tummy while being flattering to the waistline.


Salmon, Dill & Smoked Fish Chowder
Serves 4-6


2 tbsp olive oil
2 stalks of celery, finely chopped
5 oz yellow onion, finely chopped
8 oz potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/4" dice
1 tbsp flour
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 cup whole milk or light cream
4 oz salmon filet, skin and bones removed
4 oz smoked mackerel
1 cup fresh dill, chopped
salt and white pepper


Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the celery and onion and sauté over medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the stock and potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 10 minutes, until the potatoes are just tender. Shred the salmon and smoked mackerel quite roughly and add to the soup. Simmer 3-5 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Stir in the milk and dill and cook on low until warmed through. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

Lemon & Orange Poppyseed Bread

Bursting with flavour, and infused with the sweet, slightly tart flavour of fragrant lemon and orange peel, melted butter and studded with poppy seeds, this classic Lemon & Orange Poppyseed Bread recipe is a tea time favourite. Fresh coarsely grated lemon and orange zest looks like confetti sprinkled throughout the loaf, and as the bread bakes, permeates the kitchen with an intoxicating aroma of warm butter and fragrant citrus scent, making it pretty hard to resist. The crowning glory is the sweet sugary lemon-orange glaze that's brushed over the cake while it's still warm, infusing the bread with a sweet and tangy citrus flavour that will keep it moist and delicious for days. So if you're needing a little taste of summer, this light and luscious Lemon & Orange Poppyseed Bread will definitely add some sunshine to your day.

Lemon & Orange Poppyseed Bread

Makes 1 loaf

3 Large Eggs
2 tsp pure Vanilla extract
1/4 cup whole milk
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
1 tbsp coarsely grated lemon zest
1 tbsp coarsely grated orage zest
3 tbsp poppy seeds
13 tbsp unsalted butter, softened

Lemon Orage Syrup:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
2/3 cup granulated white sugar

Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Butter and flour the bottom and sides of a loaf pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper and butter and flour the paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, vanilla extract, and milk, then set aside.

Using an electric mixer, beat the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, lemon zest, orange zest and poppy seeds until well combined. Add the softened butter and half the egg mixture and mix on low speed until moistened. Increase the speed to medium and beat for about one minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the remaining egg mixture and beat well.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 55-65 minutes, or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. When the bread is done, remove from the pan and place on a wire rack to cool slightly.

To make the lemon orange syrup, place the sugar, and fresh squeezed lemon and orange juice to a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until the sugar is dissolved, stirring constantly.  

Pierce the warm loaf all over with a toothpick, then brush the top of the loaf with about half of the hot lemon syrup. Brush the remaining syrup onto the bottom and the sides of the loaf. Let the lemon loaf cool before wrapping and storing overnight, to allow the lemon syrup to penetrate the loaf.

Savoury Chicken Lollipops

I'm always on the lookout for great appetizers, and found this delicious recipe for Savoury Chicken Lollipops, which hail from the plump part of the humble chicken wing that looks like a mini drumstick. More upscale than a chicken wing, these cute little bite size morsels are fun to nibble on and easy to make. A chicken wing has three sections: the pointed wing tip; the middle part; and the plump and meaty drumstick end, which is what is used for making Chicken Lollipops.

The chicken wing is comprised of 3 parts: tip (R), middle (M) and meaty end (L)

To start, the wings need to be cut apart. The tapering wing tips don’t have much meat on them, so they're sliced off and could be saved for making chicken stock — being very gelatinous, they're perfect for that. The middle part of the wing is removed at the second joint, and can also be saved for making chicken wings. What's left is the meaty end, which is made into little drumsticks, or lollipops. 

Holding onto the meaty end of the wing, the flesh is separated at the top 

and scraped down towards the bottom

Holding onto the end of the bone, the flesh is separated and scraped down toward the “shoulder” end of the wing, creating a ball of chicken meat at the end. Using your fingers, pull the meat over the fatty end of the bone so that it turns inside out, and voila, you have a lollipop! 

The meat is pulled firmly down over the fatty end of the bone and turned inside out

They can be marinated any way you like, and then fried, roasted, baked or barbecued, but whichever you prepare them, they're lovely to nibble on and make a wonderfully fun, savoury and delicious appetizer.

Chicken Lollipops

Makes 24 lollipop appetizers

24 chicken wings

Tandoori Marinade:

1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated

1 tbsp fresh garlic, minced

1/2 tsp cardamom powder

1 tbsp chili powder

2 tbsp lemon juice

1-1/2 cup yoghurt

1 tbsp oil

1/2 tsp garam masala powder

1 tsp turmeric powder

2 tsp salt

3 tbsp melted ghee

Using a paring knife, cut each chicken wing into its three segments, discarding the wing tips and middle portions, saving them for making chicken stock and chicken wings at a future time. The meaty drumstick end will be turned into a lollipop. Start by holding the thin end of the drumstick, and using a paring knife, carefully cut through the skin surrounding the bone. Once the skin is cut all around, use the knife to scrape down the meat from the bone, pushing the meat down to the other end. Using your fingers, pull the meat over the fat end of the bone so that it turns inside out. You now have a lollipop. Remove any flesh left on the thin end with a clean towel to make a nicer presentation.

Use your favourite chicken marinade for the lollipops, or choose one of my three favourite tried-and-true recipes: Tandoori Marinade, Mild Asian Marinade or Fragrant Five-Spice Marinade.

To marinate chicken lollipops with Tandoori Marinade: In a large bowl, combine yoghurt, ginger, garlic, cardamom, chili powder, garam masala, oil, lemon juice and salt and mix well to form a thick consistency. Add the chicken lollipops to the mixture and marinate, covered and refrigerated for at least 4-5 hours, or overnight. 

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the chicken lollipops standing up on a parchment lined baking sheet. Roast for 20-25 minutes, or until they're cooked through and golden brown. Serve immediately.

Asian Marinade:

1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp garlic, minced
1 tbsp white sugar
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp soy
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp fish sauce

In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well. Add the chicken lollipops and marinate, covered and refrigerated for 2-24 hours.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the chicken lollipops standing up on a parchment lined baking sheet. Roast for 20-25 minutes, or until they're cooked through and golden brown. Serve immediately.



Five-Spice Marinade with Soy Ginger Sauce and Cilantro:

2 tbsp Chinese five-spice powder

1 tbsp plus 1 tsp dark brown sugar
1 tsp minced garlic
3/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp Asian sesame oil
1 tsp fresh ginger, minced
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp chopped cilantro

Mix the five-spice powder, 1 tbsp of the sugar, garlic and the salt in a small bowl. In another bowl, mix the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, ginger, red pepper flakes and remaining 1 tsp sugar.

Put the chicken lollipops in a large bowl, drizzle with the vegetable oil and toss to coat evenly. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the lollipops; toss and rub to coat thoroughly. The chicken can be made ahead up this point and refrigerated until needed.

Once you're ready, grill the chicken lollipops on the BBQ until one side has dark grill marks, about 4-6 minutes. Turn and continue to grill until well marked on the other sides and cooked through.

Move the lollipops to a serving dish. Drizzle with about half of the soy mixture, sprinkle with the cilantro, and toss to coat. Let rest 4 to 5 minutes, tossing once or twice. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, with the remaining soy mixture passed at the table.