Pasta Carbonara: Luscious, Creamy & Delicious

 

Luscious, creamy and utterly indulgent, Pasta alla Carbonara is an Italian pasta dish based on eggs, pecorino romano, guanciale and black pepper. The key is to toss and thoroughly mix the cooked pasta off the heat with the cheese, eggs, pepper and pasta water, to create a creamy yet not overly thick sauce. A true carbonara has no cream, but although purists may shudder, I do sometimes add a little cream depending how I'm feeling! 

Like most recipes, the origins of the dish are obscure but there are many legends. As 'carbonara' literally means 'coal miner's wife', some believe that the dish was first made as a hearty meal for Italian coal miners. Romans use guanciale — cured pig's jowl — which is more delicate than pancetta — unsmoked Italian bacon — and also leaner. If you can find it, by all means use guanciale, otherwise pancetta or bacon work just as well. Garnished at the end with a flurry of coarsely grated Pecorino, this must be one of the great pastas dishes of all time.

Classic Carbonara 

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of La Cucina Italiana

12 oz tonnarelli, spaghetti, mezze maniche or rigatoni

4 oz guanciale

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano

4 fresh large egg yolks

Salt and fresh cracked black pepper

Cut the guanciale into 2-inch long strips. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks with the grated cheese and a pinch of black pepper. Brown the strips of guanciale for 2 minutes in a pan, until crisp, then turn off the heat and leave to cool.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt. Cook the pasta, setting aside a ladleful of the pasta cooking water, until al dente then drain. Pour the reserved hot water into the frying pan with the cooled guanciale, then transfer the pasta to the same pan and mix together. Add the yolk and cheese mixture, stirring rapidly.

In the warm pan with the hot pasta, the eggs will cook gently and become creamy – don't stir over heat otherwise the carbonara will become lumpy. It's important to stir quickly to prevent the yolks from congealing and taking on the texture of scrambled eggs. Season with freshly milled black pepper and serve immediately on heated plates.

Laylak: Modern Lebanese Cuisine in Toronto

Laylak, which means “lilac” in Arabic, promises diners authentic Middle Eastern flavours while encapsulating the culture of Lebanon in a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. A gorgeous cream and gold dining room with high ceilings, elegant padded walls, pillowy soft velvety ultrasuede banquettes, custom floral light fixtures and colourful blown-glass bottles, the atmosphere at Laylak is like dining inside of a jewellery box. Designed by Lavish Design and inspired by Lebanese architecture, the visual pièce de résistance is an enormous celestial centerpiece of 36 gold and white chandeliers, ingeniously, extravagantly, and laboriously fused together into a glorious tangle that descends from the ceiling.

Co-owned by Youssef Harb and Hashem Almasri, Laylak serves a seasonal menu of authentic Lebanese dishes and imported ingredients, showcasing their commitment to Lebanese cuisine. The menu is put together by Executive Chef Hazem Al Hamwi who grew up in Syria, son of an accomplished home cook, and who later cut his culinary teeth as chef to American ambassadors in both Damascus and Beirut. 

Using generations-old recipes passed down through the ages to the vibrant spices and flavours that tell stories of an ancient culinary heritage, Laylak's dishes represent the rich tapestry of Lebanon’s cultural legacy in every bite. The menu features a range of authentic Lebanese dishes, including classic mezze plates like hummus, baba ghanouch, and kibbeh, as well as heartier mains like Freekeh with Beef Cheek, Chicken Tawouk, and lovely grilled seafood. Each dish is expertly prepared using only the freshest ingredients, with a focus on locally sourced, sustainable produce and meat.

Bar manager Wei Zhou is also committed to telling the restaurant’s story through his bar menu. His eponymous Laylak is a balanced cocktail with sour and sweet notes and hints of lavender, the gin-based beverage is finished with a sprinkling of butterfly pea powder that turns it light purple — both gorgeous and delicious. With its combination of expertly prepared cuisine and extensive wine list, Laylak is sure to leave a lasting impression on even the most discerning diners.

Interior of Laylak

Enormous celestial centerpiece of 36 gold and white chandeliers, ingeniously, extravagantly, and laboriously fused together into a glorious tangle that descends from the ceiling 

Laylak namesake cocktail made with lavender-infused gin and a blue syrup extracted from 

butterfly pea blossoms that when mixed with lemon juice, elderflower liqueur and mint, 

alchemically morphs into a majestic shade of purple

Laylak Basil Hayden Old Fashioned

With a crunchy outer shell of lean ground beef and bulgur seasoned with ground cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice filled with ground brisket, the Kibbeh is served on a creamy bed of Beirut-style hummus 

Whipped Labneh with beets, frissé and roasted almonds

Hummus Tenderloin with pomegranate seeds and nuts

Chef Hazem Al Hamwi’s pillowy pita

Smokey Baba Ghanoush made with fire-roasted eggplant, tahini and lemon

Kefta Kebab with parsley salad, vegetables and salsa verde

toronto.laylak.ca

Kiin: Royal Thai Cuisine with Chef Nuit Regular

A culinary tapestry of Royal Thai-inspired delights, Kiin is a unique dining experience from award-winning Chef Nuit Regular and Jeff Regular, the restaurateur couple behind Toronto Thai institutions PAI and Sukhothai. Showcasing the regional diversity and royal cuisine of Thailand, Kiin’s design was inspired by Chef Nuit’s experience growing up in Phrae, where she spent her high school years in a colourful, colonial-style building and developed a fascination with the rich details of the Royal Palace. What results is a menu that pays homage to the old and the new: the centuries-old Thai cooking methods with modern techniques; the unique and rare Thai ingredients from Chef Nuit's homeland with the regional, seasonal ingredients of Canada, which she now calls home; the authentic Thai flavours with innovative and creative presentation. 

"Royal Thai cuisine is a dying culinary artform in Thailand and I wanted to showcase this incredibly beautiful and intricate Thai cuisine to our guests," chef Nuit explains. “When guests come to Kiin to eat with their family and friends, I want to create a unique and memorable meal and food experience while they relax and linger over a shared meal together." Beautifully designed, the intimate restaurant features marble floors, stained-glass shutters, framed photos of the Thai royal family, with plush velvet furnishings and light fixtures that hang from intricately carved medallions similar to ones found at a temple in Nuit’s hometown. 

Arriving for Kiin's signature tasting menu, we started with two Thai-inspired cocktails, 'Choop Chee Vit' which is a tamarind-infused cocktail with mezcal, calvados, dry curacao, pineapple, chilli-infused brandy, Thai basil, lime and orange bitters and dotted with chilli oil, and 'Gao-Gae' cocktail made with Spring Mill bourbon, Thai tea-infused rye, dry curacao, Ceylon tea syrup, magrud lime bitters, soda and orange blossom water. With wine or sake pairings recommended with the tasting menu, we chose Sake to enjoy with Chef Regular's Royal Thai Signature Tasting Menu, which started with a delicious Deep Fried Shrimp Fritter Amuse Bouche accompanied with a Masumi Origarami Sparkling Sake from Nagano. The second cause was a beautiful warm Thai Flower Dumpling, followed by Thai Steamed Egg Custard which was paired with a Dewanosato Jumai from Yamagata Japan. 

The fourth course was a lovely magenta coloured Rice Vermicelli in Five-Spice Broth with Braised Pork Belly paired with Kaiun Iwaizake Junmai Daiginjo Sake 'New Fortune' from Shizuoka, Japan. A refreshing Pomelo Salad or 'Yum Sum-O' along with a slice of Thai Kaffir lime followed, which was light and flavourful. A sensational Red Curry Custard with Sablefish 'Hor Muk' served with Thai Rice served in a warmed fresh coconut was beautifully presented and absolutely luscious, paired with our final sake pairing, a Kamoizumi Junmai Daiginjo from Hiroshima, Japan. Three sweets followed, Chrysanthemum Tea Spheres served in a small spoon, Mango Sorbet with Chilli Salt served in a lovely copper bowl, and showstopper Floating Black Lotus Sesame Dumpling in Coconut Milk. 

Each dish at Kiin is meticulously prepared and thoughtfully plated, and the result is a sublime dining experience that puts the more elevated side of Thai cooking in the spotlight exposing our palates, and our hearts, to something majestic. In true royal style, Nuit hopes to rotate ingredients and update recipes seasonally. 

Exterior of Kiin Thai Restaurant on Adelaide St. West

Our table beside the Thai wooden screen

Kiin Cocktail, Sake and Wine Menu

'Choop Chee Vit' is a tamarind-infused cocktail with mezcal, calvados, dry curacao, pineapple, 

chilli-infused brandy, thai basil, lime and orange bitters and dotted with chilli oil

'Gao-Gae' Cocktail with spring mill bourbon, thai tea-infused rye, dry curacao, 

ceylon tea syrup, magrud lime bitters, soda and orange blossom water

Deep Fried Shrimp Fritter Amuse Bouche: 'Tawd Mun Kung',

artfully presented on a warm stone and surrounded with small river rocks

Our first Sake pairing was Masumi Origarami Sparkling Sake from Nagano

Bottle-fermented, the sparking sake combined fine bubbles with a mild sweetness 

for a refreshing start to our sake pairings

Handmaking dumplings in the kitchen

Thai Flower Dumpling: 'Chor Muang'

Thai Steamed Egg Custard: 'Kai Toon'

The second sake pairing was a Dewanosato Jumai from Yamagata Japan

A light and delicate sake, it paired very nicely with the Vermicelli

Rice Vermicelli in Five-Spice Broth with Braised Pork Belly: 'Guay Sub Nam Khon'

Piercing the egg on top of the dish added a lovely yellow hue to the dish

The third Sake pairing was a Kaiun Iwaizake Junmai Daiginjo Sake 'New Fortune'
from Shizuoka, Japan

Known as "Good Luck" Daiginjo, the sake was fruity sake and a creamy 

Pomelo Salad: 'Yum Sum-O'

Thai Kaffir Lime to be squeezed on the Pomelo Salad

Thai Rice in fresh coconut

Red Curry Custard with Sablefish: 'Hor Muk'

Chrysanthemum Tea Sphere: 'Cha Kek Huay'

Our 4th Sake Pairing was Kamoizumi Junmai Daiginjo from Hiroshima, Japan

An easy to drink Daijingo with notes of persimmon, shiitake and "autumn leaves"

Mango Sorbet with Chilli Salt: 'Mamuang Sorbet Price Glua'

Our server graciously brought an extra chocolate swirl as it broke off 

as she brought it to the table

Floating Black Lotus Sesame Dumpling in Coconut Milk: 'Bua Loy Nga Dam'

Chef Nuit Regular's Kiin cookbook

kiintoronto.com

Grilled Chicken Satay Skewers (Gai Satay)

Makes 30 skewers

Recipe courtesy of Chef Nuit Regular

1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted

1/4 tsp white peppercorns

2 tbsp thinly sliced lemongrass

1 tbsp 2-in piece fresh turmeric, peeled and thinly sliced

1 1/2 tsp sea salt, divided

2 tbsp water

2 tbsp evaporated milk

1 tbsp + 1 1/2 tsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp + 1 1/2 tsp Thai oyster sauce

1 tbsp sweetened condensed milk

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp curry powder

1 tsp tapioca starch

1 1/2 lb skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces

1/2 cup well-shaken coconut milk, for brushing

Using a stone mortar and pestle, grind coriander seeds and white peppercorns to a fine powder. Add lemongrass, turmeric and 1 tsp of salt,and pound to a smooth paste. Transfer to a large bowl. Add water, evaporated milk, light soy sauce, oyster sauce, condensed milk, vegetable oil, curry powder, tapioca starch and remaining 1⁄2 tsp salt. Stir well to combine. Add chicken and toss to coat well with the sauce. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the fridge for at least 1 hr to marinate. Soak bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes.

Thread the chicken onto one end of each skewer. Prepare grill for direct cooking over high heat. Brush grill with coconut milk and let sit for 1 minute. This will prevent chicken from sticking. Place skewers on grill and cook until they begin to char, 8 to 10 min. Turn and brush the other sides with coconut milk when chicken starts to dry out, cooking for another 6 to 8 min, until a nice char appears. Serve the chicken satay skewers with Peanut Sauce and Fast Pickled Cucumber.

Peanut Sauce

Makes 1 cup

Recipe courtesy of Chef Nuit Regular

1 cup well shaken coconut milk

1/2 cup unsalted roasted peanuts

1 tbsp + 1 1/2 tsp Red curry paste

1 tbsp curry powder

1/4 tsp ground tumeric

1 tsp light soy sauce

1/2 tsp Thai fish sauce

1 tbsp coconut sugar

In a small food processor, combine coconut milk, peanuts, Red Curry Paste, curry powder and turmeric, and purée. Transfer to a small pot and bring to a boil over medium. Reduce heat to medium-low and add light soy sauce, fish sauce and coconut sugar. Stir to mix well and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally and scraping the bottom of the pot to prevent burning, for 10 to 15 min or until the oil rises to the surface. Store peanut sauce in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Fast Pickled Cucumber

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of Chef Nuit Regular

1/4 cup water

2 tbsp vinegar

2 tbsp Thai cane sugar

1/8 tsp sea salt

1 mini cucumber

1 fresh red spur chili

1 shallot

In a small saucepan over medium, stir together water, white vinegar, cane sugar and salt, and bring to a boil. When the mixture is boiling, cook for another min. Set aside to cool. Add cucumber, chili and shallot, and stir together. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Pad Thai

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of chef Nuit Regular

Sauce (makes extra):

1 cup grated palm sugar

1 cup water

3/4 cup Tamarind Paste 

1/2 cup Thai oyster sauce

1/2 cup Thai fish sauce

2 tbsp sweet soy sauce

Pad Thai:

7 oz plain dried medium rice noodles

6 tbsp sunflower oil

10 fresh or thawed frozen medium shrimp (size 21–25), peeled and deveined

2 tsp minced shallots

1/2 cup firm tofu cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 large eggs

2 cups bean sprouts

1/2 cup Chinese chives cut into 1½-inch pieces

4 tbsp ground unsalted roasted peanuts

2 lime wedges

To make the sauce: In a small saucepan, combine the palm sugar, water, tamarind paste, oyster sauce, fish sauce, and sweet soy sauce. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the sugar has fully dissolved. Remove from the heat. (The sauce can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months.)

Soak the noodles: Place the rice noodles in a large bowl and add enough room-temperature water to cover them by 2 inches. Let soak until soft, about 4 hours. Keep the noodles in water until just before cooking to prevent them from drying out.

To make the pad Thai: Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and then add the sunflower oil. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp turn pink but are not yet fully cooked, 1 to 2 minutes. Push the shrimp to the side of the wok. Remove from the heat and add the shallots and tofu and cook, stirring frequently so the shallots cook thoroughly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of the sauce and stir to mix. Return the wok or skillet to medium heat.

Add the drained rice noodles. Increase the heat to high and mix everything together. Cook, stirring frequently, until the noodles are soft, 2 to 3 minutes.

Push everything to one side of the wok. Crack the egg into the empty side of the wok and let cook for 1 minute. Stir to lightly break the yolk but do not scramble the egg, then quickly move the noodles to cover the egg. This way the white and yellow parts of the egg will separate nicely. Cook, without stirring, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Add the bean sprouts, Chinese chives, and roasted peanuts and squeeze a lime wedge over everything. Stir again transfer to a decorative plate, and serve while hot.

Guy's Leek & Potato Soup with Homemade Focaccia

 

My husband's homemade focaccia has become something of a legend. In anticipation of a special weekend lunch while visiting our friends Cory and Richard, focaccia was to be one of the menu highlights, served with a charcuterie of specialty cold cuts and cheeses from Scheffler's Delicatessen in the St. Lawrence Market, in addition to Guy's famous Leek and Potato Soup, which was to be 'ramped up' with sautéed pancetta and chopped chives. The prefect lunch for a chilly winter afternoon, the Leek and Potato Soup was hearty, comforting and absolutely delicious, as were the Focaccia Sandwiches.

Guy's hand-made Sourdough Focaccia with tomatoes, olives and rosemary from our garden 

has risen about to go into the oven

Baked and ready to be wrapped up for our journey to see Cory and Richard

Sliced and ready for making Focaccia Sandwiches, one of Richard's favourite things!

Mortadella and Salami

Prociutto, Provolone, sliced Hot House tomatoes, crisp lettuce, and Dijon

all set out for making custom Focaccia sandwiches

Guy's Leek and Potato Soup garnished with sautéed pancetta and fresh chives

Focaccia with Mortadella, provolone, tomato and lettuce

Leek and Potato Soup with Pancetta and Chives

Serves 6

2 tbsp butter

3 cups thinly sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only

3 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

4 cups chicken stock

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup cream

4 oz diced pancetta

3 tbsp chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Add the diced pancetta to a cold pan and turn the heat to medium-low. Cook stirring occasionally until the fat renders and the pancetta becomes caramelized and crispy, about 5-7 minutes, then remove the pancetta from the pan, drain on paper towel and set aside.

In a large pot, warm the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and broth, increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 25-30 minutes. Using an immersion blender, purée the soup until very smooth. Add the cream and season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper. To serve, ladle the soup into warm bowls, and garnish with pancetta and chopped chives.