Lemon Risotto with Shrimp, Asparagus & Peas

Although asparagus and peas are traditionally thought of as being one of the hallmarks of Spring, it's been so unseasonably warm during this month of December in Toronto, that this light and delicate lemon-scented Risotto seemed like the perfect dish to make. As they say, when life gives you lemons, make risotto. The clean, citrusy spark of the lemon zest enlivens both the asparagus and the shrimp, and the addition of fresh mint and shaved pecorino make this risotto a lovely bright dish. Warm, comforting and creamy, this luscious Lemon Risotto with Shrimp, Asparagus & Peas is a perfect springtime dish, even in the middle of winter!


Lemon Risotto with Shrimp, Asparagus & Peas
Serves 4 

20-24 medium shrimp, shelled and de-veined
1 tbsp olive oil
zest of half a large lemon
2 tsp finely chopped chives


For the risotto:
4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tbsp butter
1 tbsp oil
1/3 cup minced onion
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup fresh or defrosted frozen peas
zest of 2 large lemons
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, julienned
fresh chives for garnish
1 cup grated pecorino


In a small bowl, mix 12 shrimp with the oil, zest and chives, and let marinate at room temperature while you make the risotto. Cut the remainder of the shrimp into 1/4" pieces and set aside.

Select a skillet that will accommodate the asparagus, fill it with water and place it over high heat. When the water comes to a boil add a generous amount of salt and the asparagus. When the asparagus are tender, lift them out of the skillet and set aside. Pour 1 cup of the asparagus water into a saucepan and place over low heat and maintain it at a gentle simmer.

Also place the stock in a saucepan and place over low heat and maintain it at a gentle simmer too.

Warm 2 tablespoons of the butter and oil in a large casserole over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 5-6 minutes, until the onion softens.

Add the rice and using a wooden spoon, stir for 1 minute until all the grains are well coated. Add the wine and stir until it's completely absorbed. Then add 1 cup of the simmering asparagus water and stir until it's absorbed. Then begin adding the chicken stock 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next 1/2 cup.

After about 18 minutes, when the rice is tender but still firm, add the remaining butter, peas, diced shrimp, lemon zest, mint, 1/2 cup pecorino and several grinds of white pepper, and continue to stir vigorously. The heat of the risotto will cook the peas and the shrimp.

As the risotto is finishing cooking, sear the shrimp in a grill pan for about 60 seconds on each side, or until the flesh is completely opaque. Top each serving of risotto with 3 shrimp and a garnish of fresh chives. Serve with a bowl of grated pecorino on the side.

Canoe: The Height of Inspired Canadian Cuisine

Critically acclaimed as being among Canada’s best restaurants, Canoe’s unique location at the top of the TD Tower guarantees one of the most breathtaking views of the city. The design is clean and simple, yet absolutely stylish — the same style and unwavering excellence that is captured through the flavours and textures of Chef Anthony Walsh and Chef John Horne's inspired regional Canadian cuisine.

Chef Anthony Walsh photo: Naomi Finlay

At the beginning of this year, Canoe closed its doors and embarked on a month long renovation, the first major overhaul for the restaurant since its opening 15 years ago. The revitalization included full facelifts to the kitchen, dining rooms and bar. The transformation of the space has been subtle, gently shifting its refined, minimalist environment to a warmer, darker, richer palette. Upgrades included the addition of a soapstone top in Canoe's bar with two wall-carved caribou at either end, plus a glowing red semi-translucent acrylic counter along the windows of the bar, and classic Saarinen style chairs upholstered in plush mohair, new banquettes, walnut tabletops and floors in the dining area. True to Canoe's commitment to regional flavours, Canadian artists feature prominently in the restaurant with a unique bronze and copper wall by 'Unit Five' along the back wall, a custom entranceway featuring 150 vintage porcelain replicas of beaver-embossed sealer jars by Vancouver’s 'Heyday Design' and three custom-made carved walnut chandeliers by 'Brothers Dressler'.

Canoe's stylish new interior with a warmer palette and unrestrained use of natural materials

Canoe's 'Chef Rail', where diners can enjoy their meal, overlook the kitchen

 and chat with Chef John Horne

A Thursday evening just before Christmas and the kitchen was in full swing

Wines by the glass are also an option at Canoe

Canoe's post-renovation menu continues to focus on regional Canadian dishes, with new culinary offerings such as Cumbrae Farms Beef Tartare with applewood smoked bacon, pretzel toast and Forbe's wild flowers, Ontario Provimi Veal Chop with charred leeks, crispy sweetbreads and Kennebec potato gratin and Great Lakes Pickerel 'Shore Lunch Style' with dandelion, cast iron fried potatoes and Kozlik's mustard sauce. "This menu reinvention will keep Canoe pointed true north", says partner Michael Bonacini. Arriving slightly early for our 8:30pm dinner reservation, we started the evening in Canoe's stylish new bar with a cocktail and soaked up the fabulous views over the city from our 54th floor perch.

Hendrick's Gin martini with a slice of cucumber and 2 cerignola olives

Our 'art-shot' taken from Canoe's Bar at the top of the TD tower

Once seated at our table, we were brought Canoe's new dinner menu and surprisingly, a complimentary glass of champagne from the Maître D. Having decided on our entrées, we decided to try an Umbrian 2003 Sagrantino di Montefalco by Arnaldo-Caprai, but when our server couldn't provide any further clarification on our wine choice, he sent Canoe's renowned sommelier Will Predhomme to our table. Charming, affable and thoroughly knowledgeable, Will of course knew all about the wine we selected and mentioned that he'd met the vintner during a wine tasting at Aria. What a small world —  we had chatted earlier with Elena Morelli, owner of Aria, about a bottle of Passati which had been a gift to her from Arnaldo himself — a bottle which she graciously shared with our table the evening we dined at her restaurant! 

Will Predhomme, sommelier at Canoe

With our full bodied Umbrian wine in hand, we decided to start with Canoe's renowned Clover Roads Duck 'Tongue to Tail' which was a standout — the dish centred around screech-marinated foie gras au torchon. Artfully presented on a block of hewn wood, the dish included battered duck tongue, a tiny duck heart that’d been sliced in two, chunky, nicely seasoned duck rillettes, seared duck breast and buttery duck mousse. It was a stellar presentation and full of varied flavours, so not surprising it's on their most popular starters. I decided to try the Qualicum Beach Scallop Ceviche from Canoe's Tasting Menu, since I had recently visited Qualicum while on Vancouver Island in October. The scallop ceviche was served with apple cider seaweed, horseradish and both fresh and preserved apple. I'm not a big fan of foam on food, but the flavour of the scallops, the delicate texture of the seaweed and shaved apple came together nicely. 

Clover Roads Duck 'Tongue to Tail'

Qualicum Beach Scallop Ceviche from Canoe's Tasting menu

As a main course we ordered the Alberta Lamb which was served with Branston Pickle, baby turnips, spring onion and small butterball potatoes. Exquisitely tender and full of flavour, the lamb loins were cooked to perfection. Being an ardent fan of mushrooms, I also had to try Canoe's Pan Roasted Northern Woods Mushrooms which arrived in a small tureen. Perfectly roasted, the fragrant medley of these gifts from the forest included oyster, shitake, beech and cinnamon cap mushrooms, and were so delicious I could easily have doubled the order and had it as an entrée. My husband ordered the 45-Day Dry Aged Ribeye which arrived with orange glazed heirloom carrots and topped with a mouth watering beef tongue and marrow tortellini. Having not had a steak for over a month, he became almost teary eyed with each and every succulent bite of the rib-eye.

Alberta Lamb

Northern Woods grilled mushrooms

45-Day Dry Aged Ribeye

After dinner, we decided to return to the bar, drink in the view and enjoy a flight of six premium Canadian cheeses from BC, Ontario and Quebec, and of course a glass of port to finish our fabulous evening. Our server even refilled our glass on-the-house, noticing that we'd not yet finished our cheeses. He also pointed out that the cranberry scones that were part of the plate, were made from a recipe by Chef de Cuisine John Horne's mother. Nice touch.

Canoe's Cheese Plate with six premium cheeses from across Canada

The friendly Barrista in Canoe's Bar in front of the etched soapstone caribou,
and image lifted from the face of our quarter! 

Our evening at Canoe was exceptional. The meal was excellent, the new interior elegant and refined, and the staff friendly and professional. Unfortunately, as we were leaving, our server didn't even bother to thank us because he was on his cellphone. For an expensive evening and a very gracious tip, I'd have hoped for a simple "Thank you" as we left. Oh well, one small blemish on a perfect evening.

www.oliverbonacini.com

Solo Sushi Ya: Newmarket's Hidden Gem

In a nondescript plaza in the wilds of Newmarket, we find ourselves in search of the elusive Jyo Gao, owner of Solo Sushi Ya, considered to be a Sushi Master by none other than Joanne Kates. High praise indeed, so on a journey up to Newmarket this week, we decided to experience Mr Gao's culinary offerings first hand. The restaurant is tiny but with an extensive menu which starts with a selection of appetizers including Gyoza, Yakitori and Sushi Pizza to Softshell Crab and Edamame. We started with an order of Gyoza Japanese-style chicken dumplings, which was our favourite appetizer at Izakaya before it closed three years ago from it's location on Front St. East. Gao's dumplings were altogether different — lighter than air with a delicate balance of chicken and ginger. The dumplings, as well as the soy sauce, are both made in-house, and what a difference it makes. They both seem to melt in your mouth — by far the best Gyoza we've ever enjoyed, and in Newmarket no less!

Solo Sushi Ya's Gyoza chicken dumplings with home-made soy sauce

We followed with a selection of salmon, yellowtail and tuna Sashimi and a Shrimp Tempura Roll. The sashimi were sliced quite thinly and wonderfully fresh, but the Shrimp Tempura Roll was outstanding. I've had Dynamite Rolls before and the tempura has always been quite overwhelming, but Gao's creation is beautifully light and subtle, and made with the best sushi rice I've ever had. It was delicate and impeccably fresh — perhaps just made moments before. We were even tempted to place another order they were so good, but restrained ourselves so we wouldn't roll out of the Bistro like a Yokohama Maki.

Trio of sashimi - salmon, hamachi and tuna

Shrimp Tempura Roll

We also ordered a Bento Box which came with Grilled Teriyaki Chicken in a gentle and flavourful sauce, three California Rolls and a selection of exquisitely prepared tempura including an enormous prawn, large mushroom and yam, plus a little more of Gao's sumptuous rice. Again the tempura was wonderfully light and airy, letting the intrinsic flavours of the vegetables and the sea shine though.

Chicken Teriyaki Bento Box

We have to concede, Joanne Kates was right. Jyo is a sushi wizard. Quiet and intent as he single handedly prepares all of the sushi, sashimi and maki rolls, it appears that there is only one other chef in the kitchen helping out. No wonder it's called 'Solo' Sushi. As we finished our meal, and the other diners have departed, Jyo came over to chat and ask how we enjoyed our meal. 

Jyo Gao, Sushi Wizard of Solo Sushi Ya in Newmarket

We told him it was some of the best we've ever had and drove up from Toronto just to find him. Pleased with the compliment, he's obviously proud of his work and used to the praise, having run his Japanese Bistro for over 11 years with an ongoing and dedicated clientele, in addition to running a thriving catering business, both in the Newmarket area, as well as through some of Toronto's top chefs, restaurants and hotels in Toronto. I guess he's not our little secret, but a big koi in a small pond who is famously sought after outside his own waters. And it couldn't happen to a more delightful and talented gentleman. Arigatou gozaimasu, Jyo.

Solo Sushi Ya

291 Davis Drive, Newmarket

www.solosushiya.com

Spicy Tuna Tartare in Sesame Miso Cones

Every year my husband and I get together with our next door neighbours to watch the Academy Awards. It's a big event. In between the gorgeous gowns, tear-filled acceptance speeches, wardrobe changes, and surprise winners, we dress up like Hollywood stars and create our own award-winning culinary masterpieces. Each year our menu changes, but it always starts off with a bottle or two of champagne and some delectable hors d'oeuvres, as we watch the celebs make their way along the red carpet. And no one knows more about red-carpet style than Wolfgang Puck, who for almost twenty years, has been the official caterer of the Academy's post-Awards Governors Ball. 

Wolfgang Puck

One of the famous appetizers that he makes for the event each year are his signature Spicy Tuna Tartare in Sesame Miso Cones which are topped with Masago, shredded ginger, chopped scallions and micro greens served on Japanese 'temaki' trays. Enormously popular with Hollywood's elite, this spectacular hors d'oeuvre is guaranteed to be a show stopper any time of the year. Just don't forget the champagne dahling...

Wolfgang Puck's Spicy Tuna Tartare in Sesame Miso Cones

Makes 24 pieces

For the tuna tartare:
1/2 pound ahi tuna, small dice
1/2 cup minced green onions
1 tsp minced fresh ginger
1 tsp wasabi paste
1/2 tsp sesame oil
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tbsp fresh lime juice

For the miso cones:

1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 stick unsalted butter
1/3 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup unsifted unbleached flour

For the garnish:

Tobiko eggs

Shredded picked ginger

Chopped chives

In a medium bowl, mix together the diced tuna, green onions, ginger, wasabi, sesame oil, soy sauce and lime juice until the tuna is well coated. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate while you make the cones.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. In a mixmaster, combine the sesame seeds, sugar, butter, corn syrup and flour until the butter is well incorporated.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and scoop small spoonfuls of the dough onto the baking sheet. Space them far apart as they will spread during baking. Bake 4-6 minutes until golden brown, watching carefully as they can burn quickly.

Remove from the oven and gently roll into cone shapes. Let them cool before placing a generous spoonful of tuna mix into each cone. Garnish with 1/2 teaspoon of tobiko, a little grated picked ginger and top with chopped chives. Serve immediately. 

Little chocolate 'Oscars' and smoked salmon on Oscar-shaped toasts!

Roast New Potatoes with Caviar & Crème Fraîche

The presence of caviar in any dish is equated with festive indulgence, but used judiciously, it can be an affordable luxury with a tablespoon or less being able to work its undeniable magic. The best recipes use caviar as a garnish, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. Consider, for instance, the effect of a dab of crème fraîche and caviar on a small roasted potato. Small delicately roasted spuds are perfect foils for the silky salmon roe, with a spoonful of their briny essence bursting in your mouth like a virtual symphony. In the end, a simple spoonful of this saffron hued caviar can transform even the humble roast potato into the most elegant canapé.

Roast New Potatoes with Caviar & Crème Fraîche
Serves 12

4 lb unpeeled small new or fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 1/2 tbsp minced chives with extra for garnish
1 1/2 cups chilled crème fraîche or sour cream
1/2 cup salmon roe caviar

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Combine potatoes and 2 tablespoons of oil in a large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Arrange the potatoes, cut side down, in single layer on a baking sheet. Shake pan slightly to prevent sticking. Roast until potatoes are brown, crisp, and cooked through, about 20-25 minutes.

Cool 10 minutes on the sheet. Arrange potatoes, cut side up on a serving platter, trimming the bottoms slightly to keep them upright if you wish.

Gently top each potato with one generous teaspoon of crème fraîche and a small dollop of caviar. The potatoes need to be cool enough so that the crème fraîche adheres to the top and doesn't slide off, but warm enough that they're still lovely.

Garnish with chopped chives and serve with a glass of chilled Champagne or Prosecco.

Caviar Pie: A Classic Appetizer

The first time I had this delicious appetizer was at a birthday party quite a few years ago — I had never seen, or tasted, anything so fabulous. Caviar Pie is actually a layered spread, not a pie at all and if done really well, is rather like creating edible art. Topped with a whimsical arrangement of caviar from the finest Beluga, Sevruga or Oscietra caviar to more reasonably priced salmon roe or lumpfish, this layered appetizer embraces many of the accompaniments traditionally served with this luxurious delicacy: chopped egg, mayonnaise, dill, chives and fresh lemon. If you have a mother of pearl or bone serving knife, caviar purists will appreciate that special touch, since fine caviar is not supposed to come in contact with metal utensils. Any way you slice it, this gorgeous Caviar Pie recipe is a delicious and sophisticated way to start any special evening over the holiday season.

Festive Caviar Pie
Serves 10-12


1 1/2 cup finely chopped onion

8 hard-boiled large eggs, finely chopped
1/4 cup mayonnaise

8 oz cream cheese, softened

1 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
2 tsp finely grated fresh lemon zest
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives

1 small jar of salmon roe, black, red or golden lumpfish caviar, drained
Lemon wedges
Parsley sprigs 

Spread the chopped onion on paper towel to absorb moisture. Mince the eggs and combine with mayonnaise, and set aside. Beat the cream cheese and sour cream together until very smooth. Add the dill, lemon zest and chives, mixing well.

Lightly coat a 9" round springform pan with a little mayonnaise or unflavoured vegetable oil. To assemble, spread the egg mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan and sprinkle the drained onions on top. Drop the cream cheese mixture by spoonfuls on top of the onion layer and spread gently with the back of a spoon or spatula. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 3 hours or overnight.

Before serving, gently spoon the caviar over the cream cheese in concentric circles with three different colours of caviar, making sure they don't intermingle. To release the pie, run a knife along the inside of the pan then carefully remove the sides of the springform pan. To serve, place the caviar pie on a large platter and garnish with lemon wedges and parsley around the edge. Serve with unsalted crackers, toast tips or blinis.

photo courtesy: Caviar Cravings/The Seattle Caviar Blog

Roast Goose with Madeira Sauce

One of the most iconic and celebratory images of the Christmas season must be the traditional English favourite - Roasted Goose. Although turkey has far surpassed goose as Canada's favourite Christmas bird, goose is still the traditional roast for many people of Northern, Central and Eastern European descent, and since Medieval times, has been eaten at winter festivals but especially at Christmas. For lovers of tasty dark meat, nothing quite compares. With visions of having a quintessential old-fashioned Christmas, we served this utterly delicious Madeira-infused dried fruit and citrus-scented Roast Goose last Christmas Eve, and were treated to a classic winter feast. Crisp and golden on the outside, the Roast Goose was beautifully lean with moist dark meat, and full of flavour. Filling the cavity with fruit, not only gives the roasting goose a wonderful flavor and scent, it also makes your kitchen smell divine. Also, carefully pricking the skin is the secret to a beautiful crispy finish.

Although geese can often be found during the Christmas season, we pre-ordered our bird through Whitehouse Meats at the St. Lawrence Market, and also picked up two dozen oysters from Diana's Seafood on Lawrence. Starting with a platter of fresh shucked Kushi and Beausoleil oysters, and a bottle or two of champagne, we then served the Roast Goose with braised red cabbage, brussel sprouts and crispy roast potatoes, finished with a lovely Madeira Peppercorn Sauce — the perfect foil to the rich dark meat. The final coup d'état were individual Molten Chocolate Cakes and Crème Anglaise for pud. With all of the tales we'd heard about geese being very fatty and offering little meat, we couldn't have been more satisfied with our crisp, moist and absolutely delicious Roast Goose. It served our small party of revellers wonderfully well, with lots of leftovers including a litre of prized goose fat!

Roast Christmas Goose
Serves 4-6

1 cup pitted dried apricots, halved
1 cup pitted dried prunes, halved
1/2 cup Madeira
1 11-13lb Goose
Juice and zest of 1 orange
2 Granny Smith apples, cored and coarsely chopped
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
1/8 tsp paprika
8 slices of bacon
1 1/4 cups Madeira Peppercorn Sauce

Place the apricots and prunes in a large bowl with the Madeira, and set aside for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Rinse the goose well removing all excess fat. Prick the skin all over with the tines of a fork to help release the fat as the goose cooks. Rub the goose, inside and out, with orange juice. Add the apples and orange zest to the apricots and prunes and toss to combine.

Sprinkle to goose inside and out with salt, pepper and paprika. Stuff the cavity with the fruits and close the opening with poultry skewers. Lay the bacon slices across the breast. Place the goose, breast side up, on a rack in a shallow roasting pan in the centre of the oven. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, removing the accumulated fat in the pan with a baster every 30 minutes.

Remove the bacon and continue to roast the goose for an additional hour, while continuing to defat the pan. The goose is done when the temperature reads 175°F to 180°F deep in the breast.

Remove the goose from the roasting pan and set the pan aside. Let the goose rest, covered loosely with aluminum foil, for 20 minutes. While it's resting, make the Madeira Peppercorn Sauce.

Serve the goose on a warmed platter and garnish with seasonal holly and berries.


Madeira Peppercorn Sauce
Makes 1 1/4 cups

Pan drippings from roasted goose
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup chicken stock
1 tbsp green peppercorns in brine, drained and lightly crushed
1 tsp cornstarch
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Skim any remaining fat from the roasting pan, saving the prized elixir for future use. Scape up the remaining browned drippings and place them in a small saucepan. Add the shallots, 1/2 cup of the stock, Madeira and peppercorns. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the remaining chicken stock until smooth. Slowly drizzle this to the sauce, stirring continuously. Add the salt and pepper to taste, stirring for another 5 minutes. Serve in a warm gravy boat with the roast goose.