A London restaurant institution of over three decades and award-winning pioneer of Indian fine dining in the heart of central London, Chutney Mary is my absolute favourite Indian restaurant in the world. Sounds effusive, but it is quite simply the best. Established in 1990 by Namita Panjabi and Ranjit Mathrani, who also run the Michelin-starred Amaya in Belgravia and London’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy in Piccadilly, Chutney Mary pioneered the concept of contemporary Indian dinning in London. It was the first restaurant in the world to focus on the seven main cuisines of India: Lucknow and Punjab in the north; Gujarat and Parsi in the west; Hyderabad in central India; Chettinad in the south; and Goa and Kerala on the south-west coast. "We brought chefs over from each different region," says Ranjit. "It was a tremendously ambitious undertaking to recreate the flavours, textures, spices, cooking techniques and ingredients from each one." The lavish space serves as the perfect setting for Chutney Mary’s courtly cooking, with a menu that delivers flavours of remarkable complexity and intensity, with culinary highlights including Tandoor Grilled Wild Madagascan Prawns, Green Goan Chicken Curry, luscious Lamb Biryani and delicate Venison Samosas in wafer-thin cones that are love at first bite.
The dining room is spectacular with Art Deco mirrors, dark wooden tables, colourful artwork, dazzling candlelight and Rajasthani artefacts all combined to create a glamorous yet relaxed ambience. Its stylish dining room is the jewel in the group’s crown. Serving fabulously flavoured, refined Indian cuisine in cosy surroundings, Chutney Mary seems to be thriving in its new home. Chutney Mary’s rebirth in suave and stylish St. James's brings together an exotic Champagne and cocktail bar with a glamorous restaurant famed for its innovative contemporary Indian cuisine and superb service. Time hasn’t tarnished this treasure, if anything, it’s made it shine brighter.
Serves 4-5
Recipe courtesy of Namita Panjabi
For the rice and layering:
1 1/3 lb basmati rice
1 1/2 tsp salt
2-inch cinnamon stick
4 cardamom pods
2 blades of mace
1 large pinch of saffron infused in 3 tbsp milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 oz fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
1 large piece of ginger, cut into 20-25 juliennes
1 tbsp lemon juice
For the marinade:
5 oz plain yoghurt
1 tbsp fresh ginger, chopped
2 tbsp garlic, chopped
4 whole green chilli
1 1/2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 1/2 tsp salt
For the masala:
2 1/4 lb boneless leg of lamb
4 1/2 oz vegetable oil
2-inch cinnamon stick
4 cloves
5 green cardamom pods
2 black cardamom pods
10 oz onion, finely chopped
2 plum tomatoes, chopped
Soak the rice in enough water to cover for 30 minutes. Add the lamb and marinade ingredients to a large bowl, mix together well and leave for 45 minutes.
Heat oil in a heavy bottom pan and fry the cinnamon, cloves, green and black cardamom for a minute on medium heat. Add the onions and sauté till golden brown and then add the tomatoes and stir frequently for about 5 minutes till the two integrate. Next add the marinated lamb, turn up the heat and cook until the moisture evaporates. Reduce the heat and continue cooking for another few minutes till the lamb is seared. Add around 480ml water then put the lid on the pan and cook till the lamb is nearly done, 20-25 minutes. Take the lid off and keep cooking for a further few minutes until the masala thickens. Keep warm.
Add about 1 1/2 litres of water to a pot, bring to the boil then add the salt and whole spices. Boil for 3 minutes then add the soaked and drained rice. Bring to a boil again and cook for about 7 minutes. The rice should be almost done at this point. Drain , reserving a quarter of a cup of the rice cooking water.
Brush the bottom and sides of a large casserole dish (for which you have a lid) with oil. Spread a quarter of the rice across the bottom then top evenly with all the lamb and masala. Sprinkle over half the chopped herbs, ginger and lemon juice. Top with the remaining rice and sprinkle the saffron infused milk and the remaining herbs, ginger and lemon juice on top. Pour the reserved rice water down the sides of the pan and cover.
Preheat oven to 320°F. Place the casserole on a moderate heat for 3 minutes or until the contents are hot. Place a wet muslin cloth over the pot, then shut the lid and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for another 15 minutes. Open the lid carefully to allow the steam to escape and mix just a bit to fluff up the contents.
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