Friday, September 13, 2024

Chutney Mary: The Jewel in London's Culinary Crown




A London restaurant institution of over three decades and award-winning pioneer of Indian fine dining in the heart of central London, Chutney Mary is my absolute favourite Indian restaurant in the world. Sounds effusive, but it is quite simply the best. Established in 1990 by Namita Panjabi and Ranjit Mathrani, who also run the Michelin-starred Amaya in Belgravia and London’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy in Piccadilly, Chutney Mary pioneered the concept of contemporary Indian dinning in London. It was the first restaurant in the world to focus on the seven main cuisines of India: Lucknow and Punjab in the north; Gujarat and Parsi in the west; Hyderabad in central India; Chettinad in the south; and Goa and Kerala on the south-west coast. "We brought chefs over from each different region," says Ranjit. "It was a tremendously ambitious undertaking to recreate the flavours, textures, spices, cooking techniques and ingredients from each one." The lavish space serves as the perfect setting for Chutney Mary’s courtly cooking, with a menu that delivers flavours of remarkable complexity and intensity, with culinary highlights including Tandoor Grilled Wild Madagascan Prawns, Green Goan Chicken Curry, luscious Lamb Biryani and delicate Venison Samosas in wafer-thin cones that are love at first bite. 

The dining room is spectacular with Art Deco mirrors, dark wooden tables, colourful artwork, dazzling candlelight and Rajasthani artefacts all combined to create a glamorous yet relaxed ambience. Its stylish dining room is the jewel in the group’s crown. Serving fabulously flavoured, refined Indian cuisine in cosy surroundings, Chutney Mary seems to be thriving in its new home. Chutney Mary’s rebirth in suave and stylish St. James's brings together an exotic Champagne and cocktail bar with a glamorous restaurant famed for its innovative contemporary Indian cuisine and superb service. Time hasn’t tarnished this treasure, if anything, it’s made it shine brighter.


The Candlelit Bar at Chutney Mary

The Chutney Mary Pukka Bar is popular for cocktails and light dining

Vodka Martini

Rangpur Gimlet infused with Kari leaves, lime leaves and aromatic Indian herb infused simple syrup

Chakri Rice Sticks

A mirror table full of candles is a stunning sight entering the dining room

Chutney Mary Menu 

Goa Crab Cakes made with fresh flaked Dorset crab, chilli raita and tamarind chutney

Afgani Chicken Tikka with fennel, cardamom, mace and mint

Grüner Veltliner 
Lössterrassen

Chianti Classico

Lahori Green Moong Dal with burnt garlic and red chilli

Bengal Bhuna Gosht, Chutney Mary's classic curried lamb curry made with boneless Osso Buccco,
very slow cooked with caramelized onions and a melange of spices

White Aubergine Bharta, roasted and tossed with tomato and ginger

Royal cumin flavoured Kashmiri Pulao with browned onions, raisins, 
sourberries and almonds

Trio of Indian Breads, including Garlic Naan, Paratha and Kulcha

The Dessert menu

Almond Halwa Apple Tart with Cinnamon Iced Cream garnished with gold leaf

Complimentary dessert to honour our 22nd Anniversary 










Chutney Mary’s Lamb Gosht Biryani
Serves 4-5
Recipe courtesy of Namita Panjabi

For the rice and layering:
1 1/3 lb basmati rice
1 1/2 tsp salt 
2-inch cinnamon stick
4 cardamom pods
2 blades of mace 
1 large pinch of saffron infused in 3 tbsp milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil 
1 oz fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
1 large piece of ginger, cut into 20-25 juliennes
1 tbsp lemon juice 

For the marinade:
5 oz plain yoghurt 
1 tbsp fresh ginger, chopped
2 tbsp garlic, chopped
4 whole green chilli
1 1/2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp turmeric powder 
1 1/2 tsp salt

For the masala:
2 1/4 lb boneless leg of lamb 
4 1/2 oz vegetable oil
2-inch cinnamon stick
4 cloves 
5 green cardamom pods
2 black cardamom pods
10 oz onion, finely chopped
2 plum tomatoes, chopped


Soak the rice in enough water to cover for 30 minutes. Add the lamb and marinade ingredients to a large bowl, mix together well and leave for 45 minutes.

Heat oil in a heavy bottom pan and fry the cinnamon, cloves, green and black cardamom for a minute on medium heat. Add the onions and sauté till golden brown and then add the tomatoes and stir frequently for about 5 minutes till the two integrate. Next add the marinated lamb, turn up the heat and cook until the moisture evaporates. Reduce the heat and continue cooking for another few minutes till the lamb is seared. Add around 480ml water then put the lid on the pan and cook till the lamb is nearly done, 20-25 minutes. Take the lid off and keep cooking for a further few minutes until the masala thickens. Keep warm.

Add about 1 1/2 litres of water to a pot, bring to the boil then add the salt and whole spices. Boil for 3 minutes then add the soaked and drained rice. Bring to a boil again and cook for about 7 minutes. The rice should be almost done at this point. Drain , reserving a quarter of a cup of the rice cooking water.

Brush the bottom and sides of a large casserole dish (for which you have a lid) with oil. Spread a quarter of the rice across the bottom then top evenly with all the lamb and masala. Sprinkle over half the chopped herbs, ginger and lemon juice. Top with the remaining rice and sprinkle the saffron infused milk and the remaining herbs, ginger and lemon juice on top. Pour the reserved rice water down the sides of the pan and cover.

Preheat oven to 320°F. Place the casserole on a moderate heat for 3 minutes or until the contents are hot. Place a wet muslin cloth over the pot, then shut the lid and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for another 15 minutes. Open the lid carefully to allow the steam to escape and mix just a bit to fluff up the contents.











Wednesday, September 11, 2024

The Portrait Gallery Restaurant by Richard Corrigan



 

The Portrait Restaurant on the top floor of the iconic National Portrait Gallery boasts a rich history intertwined with art and culinary excellence. Overlooking the picturesque Trafalgar Square, the restaurant has been a cherished dining destination since its inception over two decades ago. With its doors first opening in 2003, the restaurant quickly gained acclaim for its panoramic views of London’s skyline and its refined British cuisine. Having several owners over its years it’s remained a renowned destination for its elegant and contemporary design and focus on British produce. This new Corrigan-led iteration of The Portrait will continue the legacy and offer a sophisticated ambiance that complements the Gallery’s prestigious artworks displayed, a destination where art enthusiasts and food connoisseurs can indulge their senses in an immersive and unforgettable gastronomic experience.

Arriving for lunch after a morning exploring The National Portrait Gallery, home to the most extensive collection of portraits in the world, we arrived at The Portrait Restaurant by Richard Corrigan and were seated at a beautiful window table with a fabulous view over the square. Beginning with a glass of champagne, we followed with a sensational lunch of Secret Smokehouse Salmon which is the finest hand cured and smoked salmon in London, served with Pomegranate, Fennel and Horseradish Crème Fraîche, and luscious White Onion and Gruyere Soup with pistachio and lime. Our entrées were a Filet of Beef with Peppercorn Sauce, Potato Pavé and Spinach Purée cooked to perfection, and delicious Free-Range Chicken Cordon Bleu with Potato Salad and Herb Mayonnaise with a side of Chunky Chips. As a sweet finalé, we shared a Damson Plum Pot de Crème with Shortbread and phenomenal Jasmine Silver Needle Tea which was absolutely delicious. Lunch was outstanding from beginning to end, and a delightful culinary discovery at the National Portrait Gallery. 



Our friendly and knowledgable server at The Portrait Gallery Restaurant

The Champagne and Wine Menu

Glass of Blanc de Blanc Brut Champagne

Belus Natural Spring Water

The Luncheon Menu

Secret Smokehouse Salmon with Pomegranate, Fennel and Horseradish Crème Fraîche,

White Onion and Gruyere Soup with Pistachio and Lime

2022 Chianti Classico

Filet of Beef with Peppercorn Sauce, Potato Pavé and Spinach Purée

Free-Range Chicken Cordon Bleu with Potato Salad and Herb Mayonnaise

Decadent and delicious chunky chips

Damson Plum Pot de Crème with Shortbread

Jasmine Silver Needle Tea was the most delicious tea I've ever tasted

Chef Richard Corrigan













Navarian of Lamb
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of chef Richard Corrigan

Lamb Navarin:
1 shoulder of lamb, deboned
7 oz garlic cloves, peeled
10 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp of tomato paste
3 cups white wine
6 1/3 cups lamb stock, or chicken stock
10 baby turnips, cleaned and peeled
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 2cm dice
5 oz of haricot beans, cooked
1 bouquet garni
olive oil
parsley, chopped
mint, chopped
marjoram, chopped


To begin the dish, cut the lamb shoulder into 2-2.5 inch pieces and set aside, ensuring there are no large pieces of sinew or fat left on the meat. Add a splash of olive oil to a large, heavy-based pan and place over a high heat.

Add the lamb in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan, frying each time until evenly dark and golden in colour. Remove from the pan and set aside in a bowl, reserving the oil and fat.

Reduce to a medium heat and return any fat from cooking the meat. Add the garlic cloves and allow to roast and caramelise in the lamb fat. Once golden, add the anchovies and stir until dissolved. Add the tomato paste, allow to cook briefly while stirring, then add the white wine and reduce by 3/4.

Return the lamb pieces to the pan, add the bouquet garni and pour in enough stock to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and allow to simmer gently for 1.5-2 hours. When the lamb pieces are soft to the touch and gently falling apart, carefully remove and strain off the liquid into a jug. Return to the same pan, place back on on a medium-high heat and reduce the sauce by 1/4.

Pass the sauce through a strainer into a clean pan, then add the turnips and carrots. Cook the vegetables in the sauce on a gentle simmer for 5-8 minutes, until tender. Once cooked, return the lamb to the sauce to keep warm. Add the beans to the sauce and stir through. Add the parsley, mint and marjoram to the stew, divide between bowls and serve immediately.













Monday, September 9, 2024

Bread Ahead Bakery School in Borough Market

 



Located in the heart of Borough Market, Bread Ahead offers in-person baking classes with their world class Expert bakers. Having signed up for a half day 'Introduction to Italian Baking Workshop' months ago, we were going to learn how to bake mouthwatering focaccia, ciabatta, and grissini "guaranteed to impress at your next dinner party". Based at the centre of London’s vibrant food scene in the renowned Borough Market, Bread Ahead has become a destination for foodies across the globe. Founded by Matthew Jones in 2013, he started his working life as a chef honing his craft working alongside well known names such as Shaun Hill, Simon Hopkinson and John Torode in restaurants including Bibendum, Pont de la Tour, Quaglino’s and finally as Head Pastry and Bakery Chef at Mezzo. He knows a thing or two about making great bread. He should do – a champion for English baking – he has been making it for over 25 years and has loved every minute of it!

Arriving at 9:30am for the sold-out 3-hour class, we were introduced to Victoria, the head baker who handed out our aprons and invited us to have a cup of tea and some warm freshly made croissants, before we began carefully weighing out ingredients for the Focaccia using fresh yeast, flour and salt. Luke warm water is then added to the dry ingredients and the dough is energetically mixed using our hands which was a very sticky affair. Victoria then instructed us to place the dough into a parchment lined baking pan which was then placed in the proofing oven to assist the dough to rise. The next recipe was preparing the dough for grissini, followed by ciabatta. 

Mid morning we broke for another cup of tea and warm freshly made doughnuts which were absolutely delicious. Once our focaccia was removed from the proofing oven, it had risen significantly and was ready to be massaged with olive oil and subsequently seasoned with rosemary, salt and chilie flakes. Placed into the oven for about 25 minutes, the focaccia was allowed to rest on the drying rack to cool slightly. Next into the oven was the grissini followed by the ciabatta. An outstanding morning with just twelve students, Victoria was knowledgable and delightful, leading us through a memorable morning of Italian baking, with all our personal baking goods wrapped up in Bread Ahead paper bags to take home and enjoy. A thoroughly wonderful day, we look forward to taking another baking course next time we're in London.



Warm croissants and hot tea were offered before we began the baking class

A great way to start the morning at our Bread Ahead Cooking Class

Fresh yeast used in making the focaccia, grisssini and ciabatta

Big bowls of flour for making the dough

Weighing the dry ingredients for our focaccia after which water is added

Victoria began the class showing us how to measure the yeast and dry ingredients for the focaccia

Using her hands, Victoria shows us how to mix the focaccia dough

With olive oil poured on top of the kneaded dough, the focaccia  is placed into the 
proofing oven for 15-20 minutes

While the focaccia is proofing, we began preparing the dough for the grissini
using a rosemary seasoned flour

Once mixed, the grissini dough is cut into six equal portions and then hand rolled 
into long thin strands

The hand-rolled grissini are ready to go into the oven

Before beginning the ciabatta, we stopped for a mid morning break with fresh warm donuts

Warm, squishy and full of chocolate ganache, the donuts were absolutely delicious

Condiments for the focaccia - rosemary, salt and chilli flakes

Out of the proofing oven, my focaccia has risen substantially 

The class are now ready to add toppings to the focaccia 

Olive oil is massaged in the dough using our fingertips, then seasoned with rosemary,
salt and chilies flakes, then drizzled with a little more olive oil

Our focaccia are placed on cooling racks once removed form the oven

My lovely golden fluffy focaccia

The ciabatta dough ready to go into the proofing oven 

Victoria generously flours the tabletop for laying out the ciabatta dough

The ciabatta dough is then gently scooped out of the bowl onto the floured surface

Once the dough is on the flour, it is split in half to make 2 ciabatta

Once proofed, the ciabatta dough is split into two portions and placed on a parchments lined
baking sheet, then baked for about 25 minutes

Golden brown and not looking too bad at all

The baked grissini turned out not too bad either — not as good as the ones we had in Sicily,
but they looked pretty good

Victoria and me with my ciabatta
























































Baking Focaccia at Bread Ahead

Baking School: The Bread Ahead Cookbook