Aburi Hana: Michelin Star Kyō-Kaiseki in Yorkville

Toronto’s Michelin award-winning Aburi Hana launched its Early Summer Kyō-Kaiseki 12-course set menu by executive chef Ryusuke Nakagawa who presents a modern take on the history-steeped Kyō-Kaiseki menu. Trained by master chefs, Nakagawa worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant and for the Emperor of Japan before being poached by the ABURI group to helm their prize kitchen. His cuisine is personal and intricate, weaving multiple techniques and colours into every dish. Starting with a foundation of the finest Japanese ingredients from the land and sea, he incorporates local produce to reflect the changing seasons. Using both modern and ancient gastronomy techniques, Chef Nakagawa aims to introduce new flavours and textures to each guest.

Amy Lee leads the restaurant's Sake Program with sublime signature sake and wine pairings, and executive pastry chef Aiko Uchigoshi creates magic with her beautifully created desserts. Every three months, the chef creates an entirely new Kyō-Kaiseki menu of 12-14 courses, each following the layout of a traditional kaiseki meal. Menus harness the bounty of the land and the beauty of the season, with nothing, except Nakagawa's signature Maguro Flower, ever repeated.

Celebrating my July birthday, my husband surprised me with the special Kyō-Kaiseki at Aburi Hana, keeping it a secret for weeks. Seated at the chef's counter overlooking Nakagawa' kitchen, we were treated to an unforgettable evening. The menu consisted of 14 dishes celebrating the beauty of early summer while "coaxing its covert flavours to the fore". Crafted from a host of ingredients, both imported from Japan and sourced closer to home, each course celebrated that exclusive space between cuisine and art. Served on handmade Arita pottery originating in Japan in the 17th-century, the dishes provided a stunning historic backdrop to chef Nakagawa's inspired ideas, for a truly unique and memorable evening, crowned with a special floral dessert presented for my birthday.

Michelin Star Chef Ryusuke Nakagawa

Chef's Counter seats are situated side-by-side for the best view of the kitchen,

which is were we were seated for my birthday dinner at Aburi Hana

Masumi Origami Sparking Jumai Ginjo Sake from Nagano

Bottle-fermented Masumi Sparkling Sake combines fine bubbles and crisp acidity 

with the mild sweetness and deep umami of sake

Hirame Ryuhimaki, made with Japanese Flounder from Hokkaido which is aged for 10 days 

in an ice-bath, with deep-fried Japanese freshwater crab from Saga, pickled ginger, fresh chives and cucumber, and instead of nori, it's rolled with Ryuhi Kombu

Yamagata Masamune 'Akaiwa Omachi' Kimoto Junmai 1898 Sake made in Yamagata

A traditional method of sake brewing where no lactic acid is introduced into the fermentation process in order to cultivate yeast, allows this sake to be fuller, more complex and richer flavoured 

Lobster Chawanmushi, a traditional Japanese savoury egg custard dish enjoyed for its delicate 

and silky texture, accompanied with Yakinasu Soup featured with grilled Ontario eggplant blended with Ichiban Dashi, and elegantly finished with East Coast caviar nestled in the centre of Janome Kyuri, 

a boiled cucumber cut into the shape of a snake’s eye

Our 3rd Sake, a 2022 Shichihonyari Kokoku Yamaha Junmai from Shiga

This sake is paired to balance the flavours of the Ō-toro and Caviar Sushi Monaka

Best enjoyed as a canapé, the Shinogi course is a luxurious Ō-toro and Caviar Sushi Monaka

paired with Nori, Shari, Smoked Pickled Daikon, and Egg Yolk and Vinegar sauce, all on top of a Mochi Rice Cracker, garnished with shio flower, chrysanthemum, and smoked pickled daikon from Niigata

The fourth course is Tachiuo Warayaki, which translates to "swordfish" in Japanese, 

one side is marinated in Shio Koji, while the inside remains rare and is prepared with a white sesame sauce and plated with manganji togarashi sweet peppers from Japan, vinegar-marinated Okinawan spinach, and finished with sudachi, a Japanese citrus fruit

Ryusei 'Naomi no Karachi' Kimono Junmai from Hiroshima sake paired with the duck

A full flavoured and flowery sake

2022 Ageginolaza & Leunda Cuvée Las Santas red wine from Navarra in Spain

is paired with the duck

A smooth and juicy red 

The Fifth course is Quebec Duck Aka-Miso Yaki features duck and foie gras

served with kabocha squash, a red miso sauce and garnished with a mango kimi karashi sauce, 

made of frozen egg yolk, Karashi sauce, white vinegar, and Japanese chive flowers 

Our 6th Sake pairing with sommelier Amy Lee, Sharaku 'Yume no Kaori' Junmai from Fukushima

Incredibly light, clean, and lively, this sake boasts a delightful sweetness accented 

by gentle hints of white flowers

The Maguro Flower is Executive Chef Ryusuke Nakagawa's signature dish with sliced chutoro 

and akami to create a beautiful rose and served with a spectacular cloud of dry ice 

Umami-rich and as theatrical as they come, the Maguro Flower is style, substance 

and a dash of chef's singular brand of whimsy, all rolled into one

The dish is creatively designed for the restaurant's name, Hana, which means 'flower' in Japanese

Sustainable Fish Course with Fiddleheads and Ikura

Our 7th sake pairing with sommelier Amy Lee, 

Tedorigawa'U' Yamahai Junmai Muroka Genshu from Ishikawa

Juicy aromas like muscat, banana & lychee, this easy drinking sake has a hint of pear and grapefruit

The beautiful abalone shells waiting to be filled with the next course

Chef preparing the Awabi Uni

The 7th course puts Abalone and Uni into the spotlight with Awabi Uni,

and features Japanese ingredients from Iwate abalone, Hokkaido sea urchin, Nagaimo tofu, 

Shizuoka wasabi, and garnished with sea grapes from Okinawa

The abalone dish with the paired sake

Simmered for 3 hours in sake, kombu and daikon, the abalone is served with

Nagaimo yams  which are grated into a dashi mixture, then transformed into cubes of tofu, which sit beneath fresh Hokkaido sea urchins and garnished with abalone liver sauce, fresh wasabi and sea grapes – nicknamed green caviar for its fish roe-like appearance

Kid 'Aka' Red Sake from Wakayama is made using use Aka mai  — red rice — 

which is an ancient rice strain

A beautiful rosé coloured and well balanced sake from Wakayama

Our 8th course, Wagyu Shab-Shabu served a lotus leaf

Wagyu Shab-Shabu which sits on freshwater eggplant, is complimented by Pickled Plum Dashi Soy Sauce, Ponzu Sauce, Turnip, fresh Japanese Ginger, and served on a Lotus Leaf

The 9th course is a rice one that features unagi from Nagasaki which is charcoal grilled and brushed with a tasty sauce comprised of unagi bone, soy sauce, sake, and mirin

 Served on the side is Tsukemono — Japanese preserves vegetables — which includes dashi 

marinated okra, charcoal grilled Managanji Togarashi, and pickled daikon

A unique house blend miso soup is served on the side, 

blended with both red and white miso

Menu for extra special courses for those wanting a little extra umami

Our special extra course was Wagyu Ribeye on Sushi Rice with Hokkaido Uni and shaved black truffle

The final sake pairing for the evening was this beautiful Niwa no Uguisu Doburoku,

a thicker sweet sake with peach, kiwi, apple, pear, sweet tarts, citrus, rice, and umami flavours 

Served in a lovely glass cup, the nose on this unique “nigori-style” sake is a fun collection 

of wheat, kiwi, pineapple, vanilla, apple, cream, and rice aromas

The Early Summer intro to the dessert course spotlights two variations of Japanese corn.

Hailing from Hokkaido, a pure white corn nicknamed ‘Fruit Corn’ by locals for its sweetness

Miyazaki Mango Dessert

The final pairing was Japanese Gin with soda, and odd way to end our meal

In 2020, the Osuzuyama distillery launched its first gin on the Japanese market, with all of the botanicals produced locally including yuzu, ginger, kumquat

Special flowers and sweets were graciously presented at the conclusion of the Kaiseki,

to honour my birthday

Green Japanese tea was a warm and comforting finish to a spectacular evening

www.aburihana.com