Kōjin at Momofuku: Columbian Inspired Cuisine

Months after Momofuku’s Toronto restaurants Daisho and Shoto shuttered last June, Kōjin took over the entire third floor of the glass cube that housed all of Momofuku’s Canadian outposts and put Momofuku vet Paula Navarrete in the executive chef role for the first time. The cuisine is an ode to executive chef Navarrete's Colombian childhood in Colombia spent around the grill, combined with her passion for Ontario’s meat and produce. Various cuts of local beef grilled on an open flame are the heart of the menu, supported by dishes like griddled corn flatbread, lacquered pork chops and sizzling prawns. Kōjin is named for the Japanese god of the hearth, and the restaurant’s menu focuses on cooking with fire. Steaks cooked over a wood-fire grill make up an entire section of the menu, and meat features prominently throughout.

Navarrete, who spent some time working as a butcher, is particularly excited about the daily sausage selection she developed with Kojin’s in-house butcher, Derek Easton. During the six years she spent working at Momofuku in Toronto, Navarrete built relationships with farmers, and showcasing Ontario’s produce is also a priority for the chef. “I really admire what people grow here, and I really want to pay respect to the ingredients,” she says. One of the highlights of our recent dinner at Kōjin was chef Navarrette's fabulous griddled corn flatbreads made from local K2 mills cornmeal and hominy, served with a tasty selection of spreads including Avocado and Goat Cheese garnished with dill and pumpkin seeds, and artfully presented Marinated Sardines served with potato aioli and parsley. Although I do miss the Buttermilk Biscuits and Chicken Ssäm from Daishō and Shōtō's sensational tasting menu, Kōjin's beef-centric menu is garnering a lot of attention these days which is especially gratifying for this talented young chef running Momofuku’s newest venture.

Executive chef Paula Navarrete  photo courtesy of Kayla Rocca

Kojin menu

G.D. Vajra Rosabella Rosato 2017

A crisp blend of blend of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera from Piedmont

Bone Broth and Earl Grey Tea amuse-bouche

Griddled flatbread made from local K2 mills cornmeal and hominy served with 

Marinated Sardines, potato aioli and parsley

Avocado & Goat Cheese with dill and pumpkin seeds

Parsnip purée with scallions

Whole B.C. humpback shrimp are served with with pickled red onion, 

cold-pressed canola oil and chive oil

Ember Roasted Beet Salad with chickpea hozon and parsley

Easton-Blend Burger with gruyere and onion rings 

Grilled Trout with preserved citrus and charred cabbage

Crispy Brussels Sprouts

kojin.momofuku.com

Roasted Mushroom Salad

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of Chef Paula Navarrete

2 lb king oyster mushrooms

2 lb oyster mushrooms

2 lb grams maiitake mushrooms

2 heads Frisée lettuce

1 bunch chives

1 cup cream cheese

1/4 cup sherry vinegar

2 tbsp sugar

1 cup olive oil

1 lemon

Maldon salt

Black pepper, ground

Roast the mushrooms until golden brown in a pan with canola oil, then season with salt and pepper. To make the vinaigrette, combine sherry vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice, sugar salt and pepper. Once the mushrooms are cooked, add the vinaigrette while warm, so they can absorb the flavour. Mix the cream cheese with salt, lemon juice, and black pepper. Toss everything with Frisée and serve on top of creamed cheese.