Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Taormina Sicilian Cuisine: A Taste of Italy in Waikiki







Nestled along Lewers Lane in Waikiki is Taormina, an elegant Italian restaurant helmed by Japanese Italophile Chef Aki Yamamoto, serving authentic traditional Sicilian cuisine in a small dining room split onto two levels, and covered open air terrace. The charming exterior caught our eye one evening as we were passing by, and the fabulous menu convinced us that we had to return. With reservations made for our first Saturday night in Waikiki, the cuisine and service were tp notch. Starting with an Italian Spritz of Prosecco and Aperol, we followed with Gli Antipasti Misti, a selection of hot and cold appetizers followed by 2 homemade pasta dishes, Spaghetti al Vongole and the Pasta Nero Frutti di Mare, a squid ink pasta with shrimps, clams, mussels, scallops and crabmeat. Our only regret was not having enough time to come back again before we had to leave Oahu for Kauai.




Taormina menu

An Italian Spritz - Prosecco and Aperol

Balck olive and pesto focaccia

Olive oil and balsamico

Our server Gina with a fine chilled bottle of Gavi

My glass of crisp and delicious Gavi

The Taormino Gli Antipasti Misti: A selection of 3 kinds of appetizers

Salmon Carpaccio with Salmon Roe

A selection of Italian Cheeses

Marinated Octopus and Calamari

Spaghetti al Vongole

Fresh pasta Nero “Frutti di mare” Squid ink linguine sautéed with shrimps, clams, mussels, scallops, crab meat, fresh tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, garlic and olive oil

Good to the last shell

Taormina Chef Yaki Yamamoto

A hot steamy Macchiato



Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Alan Wong's Honolulu: Fine Hawaiian Regional Cuisine






Quite possibly one of the finest restaurants in Hawaii, Alan Wong's cuisine is so admired, even the Obamas eat here when they're in Oahu. Born in Japan and raised on Honolulu, Alan Wong is one of Hawaii's top chefs and a major influence in creating a unified and distinctive regional cuisine, and has led the way in capturing the essential flavors and exceptional cultural diversity of his home, earning him a prestigious James Beard nomination for Best Regional Chef. Wong's signature blend of Pacific-Rim styles and genre-bending fare combines Western culinary techniques with the flavours of China, Japan, Hawaii, and beyond, with tantalizing and innovative results. One of the founding chefs of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, and a longtime champion of the farm-to-table movement both in the Islands and nationwide, Wong works closely with local ranchers, fishermen and farmers producing the finest, highest quality ingredients, including island beef, lamb, hybrid lettuces, vine-ripened tomatoes and sweet corn from Oahu's fertile north shore. With the added bounties of the Pacific Ocean and Hawaii's abundant supply of fresh fruit such as mango, papaya, coconut, guava and passion fruit, and the culinary techniques Wong learned from French chef André Soltner at Lutèce in NYC, he's been able to utilize many of the ethnic influences found in the islands, forever altering the world’s perception of what Hawaiian food is today — "a sumptuous melting pot of the Pacific."





Chef-Owner Alan Wong, pioneer of Hawaii Regional cuisine

Alan Wong's first cookbook, New Wave Luau

Alan Wong's most recent cookbook, The Blue Tomato, which I purchased at the restaurant as a culinary moment of our incredible evening



With lovely warm tones of loa wood and lauhala grass weaving, it's easy to forget the restaurant is on the third floor of an office building in Honolulu's downtown business district — an unusual location, which means that it takes a particularly fervent gourmand to seek it out, but Wong's exemplary cuisine makes it more than worthwhile. The 'Wong Way,' as it's not so jokingly called by his staff, includes an ingrained understanding of the aloha spirit, evident in the skilled but unstarched service and creative, and playful interpretations of Wong's inspired Island cuisine. Exquisitely prepared and presented with style and panache, his Chopped Ahi Sashimi and Avocado Salsa Stack appetizer served on crispy won ton with spicy aioli and wasabi soy, was exceptional and hands-down my favourite dish thus far on our culinary exploration of Honolulu. 




The interior of Alan Wong Honolulu

Loca Vore Mai Tai made with “Orgeat Syrup” made from Big Island Macadamia Nuts, locally distilled Maui Rum, fresh local Pineapples, Organic Poamoho Farms Limes and Maui Sugar

An Oahu Ho Farms Cucumber Gin Martini with muddled local mint, and "stirred to perfection"

The menu at Alan Wong's was inspiring, with so many extraordinary dishes from which to choose 

The wine list arrives at our table on an i-pad, which is a great idea, allowing the restaurant to update the listing at a moments notice




Understandably, Wong has become something of a celebrity chef and a high profile proponent of the Hawaiian regional cuisine which his restaurant offers, with gastronomically intricate dishes which use ingredients such as lemongrass, sweet-and-sour, garlic and wasabi to evoke the Asian roots of many Hawaiians while presenting them in innovative and extraordinary ways. This not to be missed restaurant is much like that very rare shell you stumble upon on a perfect day at the beach — well polished and without a flaw. An elegant dining room, excellent service and innovative cuisine makes it understandable why Alan Wong's is celebrated as Oahu's premier restaurant, and why it's considered to be the dining highlight of the island.




Warm dinner rolls freshly baked in house every evening

A tangy and explosive garlic aioli

Seafood Cakes with lobster, shrimp and crab with caper mayonnaise and Tsukemono relish

Wong's exceptional Chopped Ahi Sashimi & Avocado Salsa Stack served on crispy won ton 
with spicy aioli and wasabi soy

Richard Ha’s Whole Tomato Salad with Li Hing Mui Ume Vinaigrette

Twice Cooked Shortrib Soy Braised & Grilled “Kalbi” Style
 with gingered shrimp and Ko Choo Jang Sauce

Steamed Shellfish Bowl with bouillabaisse style broth, lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels and crab

Butter Poached Kona Cold Lobster with Keahole Abalone, Hamakua Heritage Abalone 
and Eryngii Mushrooms in Green Onion Oil

Keahole Lobster “Escargot” Style with Red Onion Butter

Miso Garlic Butter Fish with Curry Kabocha Potato Salad, Karashi and Gobo

Ginger Crusted Onaga, Long-Tail Red Snapper with Miso Sesame Vinaigrette, 
Organic Hamakua Mushroom & Corn

Kula “Strawberries Romanoff” with Hawaii Island Dairy Goat Cheese Panna Cotta, 
Kula Strawberry-Hibiscus Consommé and Goat Cheese Sorbet

A pot of First Flush Darjeeling Tea

The open-concept kitchen at Alan Wong's Honolulu











Ahi Sashimi & Avocado Salsa Stack with Crispy Wontons
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy Alan Wong

Crispy Won Ton Wrappers:
5 Wonton Wrappers
Canola oil for deep frying

Ahi Poke:
8 oz sashimi-grade ahi
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp thinly sliced green onion
1 tsp Sambal Oelek sauce

Avocado Salsa:
2 small ripe avocados, about 7oz each
1/4 cup small diced yellow onion
1/4 cup small diced tomato
1 tbsp roughly chopped fresh cilantro
1 1/2 tsp minced ginger
2 tsp fresh squeezed lime juice
1 tbsp Sambal Oelek 
1 1/2 tsp Sake 

Sambal Aioli:
1 whole large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp Sambal Oelek 
1/2 tsp minced garlic
1 cup canola oil
Kosher salt

Wasabi Soy:
1 cup hot water
1/2 cup soy sauce
5 tbsp wasabi powder
1/4 tsp corn startch

Garnish:
Basil micro greens & edible flowers


Cut the won ton wrappers into 1/8-inch strips. In a saucepan, heat 3-4" of oil to 350°F then place a small handful of the won ton strips in the hot oil and fry until light golden brown. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels and set aside, allowing the won ton strips to cool.

Cut the ahi tuna into 1/4-1/3-inch cubes. Season with salt then add sesame oil and mix to coat well. Add the remaining ingredients and gently toss the mixture together. Taste and adjust the seasoning; set aside.

Cut the avocados into 1/4-inch cubes then sprinkle with salt then lime juice. Add the remaining ingredients and gently stir, but do not mash. This makes 2 cups.

For the sambal aioli, combine the egg, egg yolk, mustard, lemon juice, sambal oelek and garlic in a blender. Turn the blender on and slowly drizzle in the oil until well incorporated. Season with salt to taste.

For the wasabi soy, place all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and whisk together until smooth. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil and allow it to thicken. Remove from the heat and cool. Put in a squeeze bottle and set aside for garnish. This should make about 1 1/4 cups.

To assemble the stacks, position a 3 1/2" x 2 1/2" ring-mold on a serving plate. Note: Several stacks can be made ahead on a baking sheet using individually cut parchment paper larger than the mold, to later transport to a serving plate, where the parchment can be easily removed. 

Spread a small amount of Avocado Salsa to serve as a base to prevent the won ton layer from sliding. Place won ton strips at the bottom and gently press down. Fill the remainder of the mold with Ahi Poke and smooth the top. Spoon 1/2 tsp of Sambal Aioli in the center of the ahi. Garnish with micro basil and an edible flower. If you can't find micro basil, sliced green onion may be substituted as a garnish. Using a squeeze bottle, make graduated dots of Wasabi Soy from large to small around the stack, and serve. Delicious and impressive!





Monday, March 3, 2014

Hau Tree Lanai: Pacific Rim Cuisine in Waikiki





A spectacular Hawaiian hau tree shades the stone porch of this popular Pacific Rim beachfront restaurant, The Hau Tree Lanai, one of the most romantic dining spots in Honolulu, especially at night. Nestled at the base of Diamond Head along Kaimana beach at the end of Waikiki, the Hau Tree is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset from one of the restaurant's coveted beachside tables. And it was under the historic hau tree at the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, where author Robert Louis Stevenson lounged and once wrote, that we were fortunate enough to enjoy our dinner, and sample some of Chef Rene Caba's delicious Pacific Rim creations, all made with fresh local ingredients. A graduate of the Kapiolani Culinary Arts Program, Chef Caba recommended his Sampler Trio — "a great appetizer with lobster, petite ahi tartare, and seared scallops" — and I followed his suggestion, but not before starting with some island cocktails: a Hau Tree Mai Tai and Blue Hawaiian, just to get into the aloha spirit.




The perfect beachside table for two at the Hau Tree at the Otani, 
a lovely culinary gift from my aunt and cousin for my husband and I this past Christmas

Nestled right under the famous Hau tree itself!

A family of tiki lights frame the outdoor lanai, creating a romantic and exotic ambiance

The extensive menu features a wonderful selection of Hawaiian specialties

The Hau Tree Wine list

An island specialty — the 'Blue Hawaii' cocktail, features rum, vodka, blue curaçao, pineapple juice and sweet and sour mix

A basket of delicious warm dinner rolls

A glass of Italian Pinot Grigio

Chef's Ocean Trio Seafood appetizer with Seared Scallop with Pernod, Salmon-Ahi Tartare and poached Lobster with Avocado Relish

Salmon-Ahi Tuna Tartare and Poached Lobster

Portuguese Bean Soup




The island-inspired menu features an extensive selection of Fish & Seafood entrées including six fresh catch of the day including Opakapaka, Mahimahi, Ahi, Onaga, Opah and Ono, as well as a Seafood Mixed Grill with Grilled Lobster, Jumbo Shrimp, Scallop & Fresh Island Fish, Miso Sake Salmon, Seared Scallops and Scampi Provencal. There's also a selection of appetizing entrées from the grill, such as Harris Ranch Black Angus Filet Mignon, Colorado Lamb Chops, Hawaiian Pan-Seared Pork Chops and Hawaiian Grilled Chicken. We decided to select two of the highlights from Chef Caba's menu, the Sautéed Opakapaka with lemon beurre blanc sauce and the Hawaiian Pan-Seared Pork Chops — both outstanding, and from our oceanside perch under the impressive boughs of the hau tree, the evening was as romantic as could be imagined. As we wandered back to Waikiki through Kapi‘olani Parki, a burst of fireworks suddenly exploded in the sky and serenaded us home to the Moana — a spectacular finish to a delicious evening in paradise.



Sautéed Opakapaka with lemon caper beurre blanc sauce, North Shore beans and Israeli couscous

Hawaiian Pan-Seared Pork Chops marinated in a Mango and Herb infused concoction topped with Pineapple Chutney

A spectacular show of fireworks serenade us along the shoreline in Kapi‘olani Park, 
as walk back to the Moana Surfrider after our dinner at the Hau Tree