Dresden: An Architectural Treasure on the Elbe

Before World War II, Dresden was called 'the Florence on the Elbe' and was considered to be one of the world’s most beautiful cities due to its architecture and art treasures. Brimming with museums, historical relics and world-famous buildings like the Zwinger palace and the Semperoper. During the war, however, Dresden was almost completely destroyed by massive bombing raids that took place on the night of February 13–14, 1945. The city was so badly damaged that it was suggested that the best approach might be to level the site, however after the war a compromise was reached to rebuild the Zwinger, the Saxon Royal Palace, and the Baroque buildings around the palace thus creating a new city in the area outside, with the aim of preserving the character of the old city. 

The heart of Dresden is still a cluster of Baroque churches including the Rococo-style Zwinger on the south bank of the Elbe, in the old city. The iconic Frauenkirche, built in 1726–43 and Germany’s largest Protestant church, was destroyed, however the ruins were kept as a memorial until the 1990s, when reconstruction began. In 2004 it was topped with a cross built by a British silversmith who was a son of one of the pilots who had dropped bombs on the city. Work was completed in 2005, and the Frauenkirche was subsequently opened to the public. Other historic buildings have also either been restored or reconstructed, including the Taschenbergpalais, which was been rebuilt as a hotel, and where we stayed during our glorious time in Dresden.

Baroque style architecture of old sky bridge that lies between Dresden Castle  

and the Cathedral in Old Town 

Dresden's iconic Frauenkirche on Neumarkt Square with statue of Martin Luther in front

Dresden Residenzschloss, also known as the Royal Palace,

just across from our Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski 

Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski 

The amazing view from our room at the Taschenbergpalais Kempinski with the Royal Palace

top the right and the Dresden Semperoper in the centre

The World Famous Zwinger Museum in Dresden

 

A masterpiece of European Baroque architecture and home to world-famous museums, Dresden's Zwinger was built as a synthesis of architecture, sculpture and painting between 1710 and 1728 according to plans by the architect Matthäus Daniel Pöppelmann. Originally serving as an orangery and the setting for magnificent festivities such as the wedding of the century of Augustus the Strong's son, Friedrich August II, to Maria Josepha of Austria in 1719, the name Zwinger goes back to the name used in the Middle Ages for a fortress section between the outer and inner city walls. 

Today, the Zwinger Museum complex houses the spectacular Gemäldegalerie Alter Meister with more than 700 Old Masters paintings, with highlights including a group of Italian Renaissance works by Raphael, Giorgione, and Titian and paintings by Dutch masters Rembrandt van Rijn and Johannes Vermeer, in addition to the breathtaking Dresden Porcelain Collection including Chinese, Japanese, and Meissen porcelain, and the inspiring Royal Cabinet of Mathematical and Physical Instruments. One of the most important buildings of the late Baroque period in the Saxon state capital, the Zwinger and its Meissen porcelain collection was definitely a highlight of our stay in Dresden.

'Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window' c. 1657 by Johannes Vermeer

'Elector Johann der Beständige of Saxony' c 1576 by Lucas Cranach the Elder

'The New Market in Dresden' c 1748 by Canaletto

Inside one of the galleries of the Zwinger

Head of a Muse with Pine Garland, Rome 120AD

This 'Head of Dionysus' with his hand laying overtop caught my eye,
from Rome 2nd-century AD

The Zwinger Café  

Time for a slice of Plum Streusel Cake at the Zwinger Café mid morning

The Zwinger Royal Cabinet of Mathematical and Physical Instruments

Geographical Table Clock shows time plus a skullcap-shaped surface that simulates day and night

in the Northern hemisphere, made in Prague in 1738

Ornate gold clock indicates time plus a celestial sphere indicating month

Geocentric Armillary Sphere, where earth is fixed in centre, with rings representing equator, elliptic

tropics and polar circles, made in Paris 1800

One of the many enormous celestial globes indicating how the heavens moved with signs of the zodiac and exhibiting the time of the year

Gregorian reflecting telescope, by Johann Gottlob Rudolph, Miltitz, c 1748 

Golden Globe from the Langgalerie featuring scientific instruments collected around 1560

by Elector August of Saxony for the Dresden Court

Timepiece from the Dresden Court features a tiny drummer who marks the hours of the day

On the hour, the little drummer performs to mark the hour

The lovely building houses the older treasured astronomic telescopes

Newtonian 7' Reflecting Telescope, by William Herschel in London, c.1785

with which he achieved great fame by discovering Uranus in 1781

The imposing Rococo Gregorian Reflecting Telescope was one of the first ones

made in Germany

The beautiful stone Brühl's Terrace wraps around the courtyard of the Zimmer museum complex,

as we walk ed from the Atronomical Wing and strolled to the Meissen galleries

The Kronentor, also known as the 'Crown Gate', is a magnificent architectural feature 

perched on Brühl's Terrace of the Zwinger Palace complex

View from Brühl's Terrace over Zwinger with spire of the clock tower 

The Meissen Porcelain Collection is located in this Baroque-style confection at the Zwinger Palace 

Chinese Meissen motif porcelain display

Seven of the famous 'Dragoon Vases'

Meissen-ware of Equestrian Statue of King Augustus III from 1753

Bust of the Court Jester Gottfried Schmiedel, Meissen 1739

The collection of Meissen Parrots was the highlight of the museum for me

The color and detail is astounding

Vibrant and animated Cockatiel

The Porcelain Collection continued through many halls

Meissen porcelain with Chinese and Japanese decoration including

Imari style tureen, plates and bowls

Tableware of the Swan Service of the Prime Minister of Saxony and Poland,

Count Heinrich von Bruehl (1700) and his wife Franziska Countess Kolowrat-Krakowsky

Centrepiece of the Meissen dinner service of General Marshall 

Count Burchard Christoph von Meunnich c.1738

www.der-dresdner-zwinger.de/en/the-dresden-zwinger

Restaurant Genuss-Atelier in Dresden: Superb

Dresden is a region for explorers and connoisseurs, reflected in its extraordinary culinary landscape. At Genuss-Atelier in Dresden’s Neustadt district, Michelin-starred chef Marcus Blonkowski brings great cuisine to a relaxed atmosphere together with his sister Nicole. Marcus runs the charming restaurant in a stylishly restored sandstone vault, rustic in ambience, and sophisticated on the plate. Nestled in a beautiful old villa, Nicole welcomes guests with genuine warmth and a fine sense for wine. Her selection comes exclusively from the Elbland and Saale-Unstrut regions and perfectly complements her brother’s creative compositions. Marcus cooks what inspires him – seasonal, straightforward and full of respect for good products. Instead of culinary theatre, he focuses on intense flavour, precision craftsmanship and a clear signature, serving interesting, modern and creative cuisine prepared using top-quality produce, and featuring a seasonal menu that masterfully blends traditional Saxon flavours with modern gastronomic creativity. Each dish showcases fresh, locally sourced ingredients crafted into innovative plates that delight both eye and palate. 

Genuss-Atelier star chef Marcus Blonkowski cooks with ingredients from the region according to the motto: you eat with your eyes

Arriving for our table, a small easel with ceramic tile marks the guest's name

Nicole Blonkowski, co-owner of Genuss-Atelier, brought out a selection of possible additions to our 

dégustation menu, including oysters, sardines, truffles or caviar

A glass of champagne is the loveliest way to begin any dinner,

especially when exploring the world

We succumbed to Nicole's suggestion of half a dozen French Fine de Claire oysters,

plump, served on ice with house made Mignonette sauce

We also selected the can of plump Vintage sardines to share with warm homemade toasted bread

The plumpest most delicious sardines with pickled vegetables

Custom made drawer pulls out from the table with multiple sets of cutlery 

Amuse-bouche of delicate cone with puréed whipped fish topped with crisp tuille

The second amuse-bouche of warm truffle cream profiterole served  
over a wooden tray of local river rocks

A delicious Schloss Proschwitz Riesling was the first of the wine pairings with our 

5-course degustation menu

This single varietal German Reisling was dry and full of deep rich flavour

Warm fresh baked plum and seed bread with house churned butter

Red Trout with tomato concassée, basil oil and buckwheat 'tuille'

Weiss von Schwan was our 2nd wine pairing

Rich straw colour, dry and delicious

The soup base of duck liver, Granny Smith apple and truffles

Lovely rich and fragrant duck broth poured over the soup base

3rd wine pairing of Schwartz Weissburgundy Merbitzer Bauernberg

Grilled Red Trout with beurre blanc sauce and puréed carrot and buckwheat

The 4th wine pairing, Schwartz Blaufrankisch Radebeul

A deep and richly flavoured gorgeous red wine from Saxony

Delicate pink duck with red cabbage, potato and vegetables

The 5th and final wine of the pairings, a sweet Tim Strauss Solaris

A slightly sweet wine to accompany our dessert courses

Dessert of red wine sorbet with meringue, pickled figs and chocolate dust

A Macchiato - the perfect end, almost - to a rich 5-course dégustation

The second dessert of the dégustation meal, bienenstich,

which translates as bee sting, a german cake

The sommelier arrives with a trolley with after-dinner schnapps and liquors,

with which my husband indulged 

A final glass of schnapps...

...and handmade chocolate petit-fours as the final sweet decadence...

www.genuss-atelier.net