The quiet walled hilltown of Città della Pieve is famous primarily because it was the birthplace of the great Renaissance painter Pietro Vannuci, also known as Perugino who taught the very young Raphael, and also because it's the home of Colin Firth and his Italian wife Livia Giuggioli. Although we were able to get sightings of some beautiful Perugino's, Colin and Livia proved more elusive. Belonging to the city-state of Chiusi during the Etruscan and Roman periods, Città della Pieve frequently suffered from barbarian invasions but finally developed as a fortified town around 1000 AD, centred around the Cathedral of Santi Gervasio e Protasio, which is home to two Perugino frescoes. The afternoon we arrived for lunch, il Palio dei Terzieri di Città della Pieve was underway, which takes place late August to the first week of September every year, during which young Pievese compete in archery, drumming, flag waving, costumed battles and historic parades. Celebrating the first day of the event, we arrived in Città della Pieve and watched the drummers make their way through the town, after which they wined and dined in the outdoor terrace of Ristorante da Laura, my favourite restaurant in this normally quiet and tranquil Umbrian hill town.
A hidden gem on Via Pietro Vannucci with a sensational menu, Ristorante da Laura is run by Anita Doshkova, an absolutely charming Bulgarian Italian. Specializing in fish and seafood, homemade pasta and excellent local cuisine, Anita grows many of the herbs and vegetables in her own garden. Starting with a delicious Mussel Soup and outstanding Carpaccio di Ricciola with raw Armberjack on wild Umbrian arugula. As a secondi, we ordered the Risotto con gamberi e zafferano Pievese and the Grilled Langoustines which were absolutely outstanding — perfectly cooked and absolutely delicious. With no room for dolce, we were however offered homemade Limoncello, which is brought to the table for guests to help themselves to the intoxicating liquor, it's very dangerous indeed. A very special restaurant in charming Città della Pieve, Ristorante da Laura is definitely worth making a culinary detour if you happen to be in the area.
Il Palio dei Terzieri di Città della Pieve
The young drummers ended up dining in the outdoor terrazza of Ristorante da Laura,
singing and laughing throughout the afternoon
Ristorante da Laura in Città della Pieve
The wonderful menu of Da Laura is heavily influenced with dished focussed on sensational seafood
Typical Umbrian bread is made with no salt
2017 Poggio Belvedere Grechetto by Arnaldo Caprai,
one of Umbia's most celebrated vintners
Light, crisp and full flavoured
Carpaccio di Ricciola: Thick slices of fresh raw Armberjack on wild arugula
Pepata di Cozze: Peppery Mussel Soup
Risotto con gamberi e zafferano Pievese: Risotto with prawns and saffron from Città della Pieve
Gamberoni alla griglia: Grilled Langoustines
Spinaci
A bootle homemade Limoncello is brought to the table after the meal
for guests to help themselves to the tart Italian liquor
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