Built over a century ago, Yoshikawa is a classic example of the traditional Japanese sukiya architectural style and home to an exquisite garden and koi pond. The former residence of Ema Tenko, the master of Chinese poetry and principal of the private school that later became Ritsumeikan University, the ryokan garden designed by Kobori Enshu was created around the same time and once was once known as 'Ema Forest'. Today, much of its original form remains, and continues to offer a tranquil serenity in the heart of Kyoto. Attached to the Yoshikawa Ryokan is Yoshikawa Tempura, famous for its delectable tempura cuisine where guests can dine in one of nine private tatami rooms, or sit around the small twelve-seat counter — which is much more interesting — and observe the chef at work. Each tempura house in Japan makes its own unique tentsuyu (tempura dipping sauce), and similarly the recipe for Yoshikawa's is a closely guarded secret that's been handed down through generations.
Arriving for dinner the day that Typhoon Jebi clobbered Kyoto, we were seated at the Yoshikawa's tiny counter with a great view of the chef hand making his light crisp tempura creations. Beginning with an elegant Mistune Midori sake from Yamamoto Honke Brewery in Kyoto that has been making sake for eleven generations since 1667, we followed with the Kirigane multi-course tempura menu that started with a wonderful appetizer of Shrimp Sushi, Octopus and Bean Dumpling, and Fig and Asparagus with sesame sauce that is served on a bamboo mat inset over fresh handpicked leaves in a small bowl, followed by a selection of tuna and sea bream sashimi garnished with shiso blossoms and wasabi. The next course was the chef's sublime tempura which is served with assorted salts to season seafood tempura, and a bowl of tentsuyu mixed with grated daikon which is used with vegetable tempura, and began with succulent prawn tempura, followed by sweet plump prawn heads, Japanese figs, eggplant, zucchini, scallops, hamo and other delectable seasonal wonders culminating with a hot bowl of homemade miso soup and a choice of kakiage, a mixed shrimp and vegetable tempura served with rice, or chazuke-style with hot tea over rice. Dessert was served in the ryokan's adjacent sitting room, where guests are discretely handed the bill for the evening. Having survived our first typhoon earlier in the day, Yoshikawa was an absolutely delicious end to our exciting 'Jebi' day.
Typhoon Jebi as viewed from our garden suite at the Hyatt which we feared might become the walk-in pool suite with the deluge of rain
Typhoon Jebi heading over Osaka towards Kyoto
The staff at the hotel were used to the weather but kept an eye on falling debris
in the middle of the pouring rain
Despite Typhoon Jebi bringing Kyoto to a halt during the day,
Yoshikawa Tempura was open as we arrived for our dinner reservation
The chef mixes the seasonal fish and vegetables in a very light batter and fries
each selection one at a time for each guest
Appetizer of Shrimp Sushi with ginger, Octopus and Bean Dumpling,
and Fig and Asparagus with sesame sauce
Toro and Madai (sea bream) Sashimi with shiso flower and wasabi
Shoyu with minced daikon for dipping vegetable tempura -
the sauce is a closely guarded secret that's been handed down through generations.
Spiced salt for seasoning the seafood tempura
Sea salt for seafood tempura also
Sudachi (Japanese limes) for the seafood tempura
Yoshikawa chef prepares and serves the prawn tempura straight away
Prawn Tempura
Sweet plump Prawn Head Tempura
Clear sake pot with inset well for ice to keep it cold
Octagonal glass sake cup
Japanese Fig Tempura
Eggplant Tempura
Extra shoyu in a small porcelain pot
Pretty ceramic pot with extra sudachi for the tempura
Zucchini Tempura with seeds hollowed out
Scallop Tempura
Shisito Pepper Tempura
Hamo Tempura (conger eel)
Baby Corn Tempura
Hamo, cucumber and sliced watermelon with sour plum dressing
Shiitake Mushroom Tempura
Tamago Tempura
Octopus Tempura
Two more Prawn Tempura conclude the tempura course
Tea
Vermillion soup bowl with scalloped lid
Homemade Miso
Tendon: Mixed shrimp and vegetable (kakiage) tempura on rice
Hot tea poured over the tempura and rice for chazuke-style tencha
Tencha: Mixed shrimp and vegetable tempura chazuke-style (hot tea over rice)
Yoshikawa dessert with tea, fruit and sorbet on a lacquer tray and hot towel
Fruit Sorbet with mint leaf
Chinese-style bench and screen in the sitting room where dessert is served
and the bill is discretely presented
Lanterns light the path
Yoshikawa Ryokan is a 100-year-old Sukiya-style inn surrounded by gardens designed by Koori Enshū, an architect and garden designer of the early Edo period
Stone bridge over the koi pond in the traditional Edo period Japanese garden
(Tempura Dinner + Sake for 2: ¥26,082)
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