Yasu: Omakase Sushi on Harbord - Taste of the Sea

Tucked in a narrow white room on Harbord Street, Osaka-raised chef-owner Yasuhisa Ouchi delivers glistening sushi, one piece at a time, to 10 guests seated at his marble-topped bar, Yasu. The city's first sushi-only omakase restaurant, Yasuhisa's edict is simple — "In a global world where borders are becoming seamless, Toronto can now have access to the freshest seafood like what we have in Japan. Yasu took this opportunity to return to the roots of sushi, in which simplicity was the key ingredient in bringing out the taste of the sea. He uses classical methods to draw out the umami of seafood, with fish that is freshly sliced and placed atop warm, loose rice then brushed with a touch of nikiri soy for a perfectly balanced bite. In short, Yasu is all about capturing the essence of sushi. Seasonal ingredients are prepared at the sushi bar and served immediately for maximum flavour and freshness, for a true omakase sushi experience — served only just-warm, vinegar-seasoned rice draped with superlative fish, made to order right in front of you and served a single bite at a time.

Having tried for a reservation at the coveted sushi bar for months, we finally succeeded. The menu is Ouchi's choice of 18 impeccably fresh pieces of edomae sushi for $80 per person, which can include Striped Jack from Kyoto, Sea Bass from Greece, Uni from Vancouver and Hokkaido, Fluke from Boston and Hamachi from Japan — the very best I've ever been served. The Marinated Bluefin Tuna from Mexico literally melted in our mouthes and the house smoked Bonito from Portugal sublime. The fish selection changes constantly, and the sake pairings, served in glasses cradled in a traditional wooden masu box, are a delightful trip through the various styles of Japanese rice wine and well worth the price. For sushi enthusiasts, Yasu is an experience unlike like any other. Place yourself in chef Yasu's hands, and you'll leave in a blissful state of sushi euphoria every time.

Yasu Sake, Wine and Beer menu with featured Sake Pairings selected by Chef Yasu Ouchi 

to match the evenings sushi 

A selection of the Sake at Yasu, available for the pairing menu and by the bottle

The first Sake pairing of the evening was from Kyoto

The Striped Jack, flown in fresh from Kyoto, was exhibited on the server's iPad

Striped Jack from Kyoto

Sea Bass from Greece

Uni from Vancouver: a creamy roe had a complex, briney flavour with a velvety richness 

that has been described as foie gras from the ocean

Fluke from Boston

The second Sake pairing was from Yamagata, served Hana-Hié – “flower cold” - 40°F to 50°F

Yamagata Sake from the Watarai Honten Dewanoyuki Brewery

Hamachi from Japan — the very best I've ever tasted

 Red Snapper from Japan, with a sliver of green shiso leaf under the flesh 

The 3rd Sake pairing was from Nagano, with a fragrance of young Fuji apples

Karakuchi Kiippon Junmai Ginjo from Nagano

Chef Yasu Ouchi prepares to slice the Tuna Belly

Tuna Belly from Spain

Chef grating lime zest over the Ikura

Ikura Salmon Roe on Nori, with grated lime zest

Wild Shrimp from Argentina

Takatenjin ‘Sword of the Sun’ Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake

The fifth sake pairing, the Takatenjin ‘Sword of the Sun’ from Akita with aromas 

of melon, pear, and banana

Mackerel with scallions and ginger topped with a paper thin slice of pickled daikon

Yasu sous-chef skewering the Bonito...

...then smoking it lightly 

Smoked Bonito from Portugal

Chef Yauhisa preparing the Tuna and Scallion Roll in crisp nori

The Tuna and Scallion hand roll presented by chef Yasuhisa 

 Anago, fresh sea eel from Japan

Chef Yasuhisa slicing the Tomago, a type of Japanese omelette which is made by rolling together several layers of cooked egg and made in a a rectangular omelette pan called a makiyakinabe

Tomago Japanese omelette

Chef Yasuhisa asked if we'd like one more extra piece of sushi and we agreed, asking him to make the choice — a special Uni from Hokkaido

The final Sake pairing, a sweet Plum wine

Nakano Shuzou Plum Umé

Black sesame Ice Cream for dessert

yasu-sushibar.com

yasu-sushibar.com

Botswana Sun-Dried Tomato & Zucchini Drop Scones

This recipe for Sun-Dried Tomato & Zucchini Drop Scones comes from 'An Elephant in the Kitchen - Recipes from the Wilderness', a Botswanian cookbook by Craig Higgins, that friends picked up on a recent trip to Africa. These scones were served each evening with cocktails while they were on safari. Their jeep would pull over while they were in the bush, and martinis would be served as the sun started to set over the rich wilderness of Mambo on the Okavango Delta. Craig Higgins is the executive chef at Wilderness Safaris' premier Mombo Camp in Botswana, and his cookbook features many outstanding African-inspired recipes, with influences from around the globe. While preparing dishes for guests each day in the camp's kitchen, elephants would frequently visit and monkeys and hyenas would often raid the supplies! Despite such distractions, the recipes in the cookbook reflects Higgins' love of African cuisine and the great splendour of the Okavango Delta — the wildlife jewel of Botswana.




Sun-Dried Tomato & Zucchini Drop Scones
Makes about 10-12 
Recipe courtesy of Craig Higgins, 'An Elephant in the Kitchen'

5 oz white bread flour
5 oz cake flour
1 pinch of salt
1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1/2 tsp cream of tartar
1 zucchini, grated
2 oz chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1/4 oz butter
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 large egg, beaten


Preheat oven to 400°F. Sieve the flours with the bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar, then rub in the butter with cold hands. Add the grated zucchini, choppped sun-dried tomatoes and buttermilk, and knead into a soft dough using your hands. Divide the mixture into small balls and place on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Brush the tops with the beaten egg, then bake for 30 minutes until golden brown. Serve with a knob of fresh butter, some soft cheese or homemade preserves.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara: "Italian Coal Miner's Pasta"

Luscious, creamy and indulgent, Spaghetti alla Carbonara is an Italian pasta dish based on eggs, pecorino romano, guanciale and black pepper. The key is to toss and thoroughly mix the cooked pasta off the heat with the cheese, eggs, pepper and pasta water, to create a creamy yet not overly thick sauce. A true carbonara has no cream, but although purists may shudder, I do sometimes add a little cream depending how I'm feeling! Like most recipes, the origins of the dish are obscure but there are many legends. As 'carbonara' literally means 'coal miner's wife', some believe that the dish was first made as a hearty meal for Italian coal miners. Romans use guanciale — cured pig's jowl — which is more delicate than pancetta — unsmoked Italian bacon — and also leaner. If you can find it, by all means use guanciale, otherwise pancetta or bacon work just as well. For the sheer wow-factor, I do like to drop an egg yolk into each nest of pasta, which guests stir to form an even creamier sauce. Garnished at the end with a flurry of coarsely grated Parmigiano, "Coal Miner's Spaghetti" must be one of the great pastas dishes of all time.



Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Serves 4

1 lb spaghetti
2 tbsp olive oil
1 lb guanciale, pancetta or bacon
4 large eggs, separated
1 1/4 cup fresh coarsely grated Pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp fresh chopped thyme leaves
1/4 cup heavy cream, optional


Put a large pot of salted water on to boil for the pasta and cut the pancetta into 1/2 x 1/4 inch lardons. Combine the olive oil and pancetta in a large sauté pan set over medium heat, and cook until the pancetta has rendered its fat and is crispy and golden. Remove from the heat and set aside, being careful not to drain the fat. Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water until just al dente. Scoop out 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water and set aside. 

Drain the pasta. Add the reserved pasta water to the pan with the pancetta, then toss in the pasta and heat, shaking the pan, for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, and add 1 cup of the Parmigiano, the egg whites, thyme, pepper to taste, and the cream, if you're using it. Toss until thoroughly mixed. Divide the pasta among four warmed serving bowls. Make a nest in the centre of each one, and gently drop an egg yolk into each nest. Season the egg yolks with a little more fresh ground pepper and sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup of Parmigiano and dive in.

Langdon Hall: A 13th Anniversary Weekend in Style

Among life's most sublime pleasures, a weekend away at Langdon Hall must be at the top of the list. Originally built as a Federal Revival mansion by the famous New York Astor family at the turn of the 20th-century, this Relais & Châteaux property is considered to be one of the top hotels in Canada. Just an hours drive from Toronto, I've been escaping to Langdon Hall since the early 90's and have spent many memorable weekends there with both friends and family, blissfully enjoying their spectacular spa, playing croquet on the crisp manicured lawns, relaxing in the tranquil secluded outdoor pool, exploring the impressive chef's kitchen garden, and of course indulging in the exceptional award-wining cuisine of the superbly talented Jason Bangerter — undeniably one of my favourite Canadian chefs. So with a 13th wedding anniversary to be celebrated in style, my husband and I escaped to Langdon Hall for two glorious days of decadent pleasures — lounging by the pool, reading books, and spa treatments by day, followed by billiards and martinis at cocktail hour and culminating with Chef Bangerter's sumptuous cuisine in Langdon's elegant dining room at twilght. With two glasses of champagne to launch our anniversary dinner, the evening was outstanding from the amuse-bouche to the special pâtisserie that were presented with a chocolate scrolled 'Happy Anniversary.' Heaven.

Langdon Hall dinner menu

Beautiful plump sweet roses

Taittinger Brut Champagne

Zymè di Celestino Gaspari Il Bianco 'From Black to White' 2013

2013 Cara Nord Conca de Barberà Negre 

Amuse-Bouche: Citrus and Grapefruit Gelée with Mint

Dressed Lobster with Bronze Fennel, Marigold, Grapefruit and Clay Pepper

White Asparagus with Duck Egg, Chive, Hazelnut and Caper Gribiche

Sablefish with Langdon Hall Pole Beans and Tomatoes with a Lemon Grass Lobster Cream

Venison with Swiss Chard, Summer Squash and Spiced Chocolate Sauce

A silver domed Cheese Trolley with assortment of local and international cheeses

Assiette de Fromage: (L to R) Warm Marcona almonds, Shropshire cheese, Stewed Fruit, Selles sur Cher goat cheese, Fried Croutons, Epoisses, and Bucheron goat cheese with pitcher of Truffle Honey

Glass of Tawny Port

A lovely finishing touch to a wonderful evening

www.langdonhall.ca

Trout Salad With Buttermilk-Crème Fraiche Dressing

Serves 4 as entrée

Recipe courtesy Chef Bangerter

Chef Bangerter poaches the fish and serves it in bite-size portions nestled in Bibb lettuce leaves with fresh peas and radishes on a pool of dressing, but it can also be served as appetizer or entrée portions.

Poached Trout:

8 cups water

1 cup white wine

1/4 cup kosher salt

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

1 carrot, peeled, chopped

1 lemon, washed, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

Several stems dill, tarragon and/or flat-leaf parsley 

1 tsp black peppercorns, crushed

1 lb skin-on rainbow trout fillets, about 2

Buttermilk-Crème Fraiche Dressing:

1/2 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup crème fraiche

1 tsp finely chopped dill

Kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper to taste

Fresh lemon juice to taste

Salad:

1 cup fresh peas in season, or frozen peas

1 head Boston or Bibb lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces

2 baby radishes, very thinly sliced 

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pot, combine water, wine, salt, onion, celery, carrot, lemon slices, bay leaf, thyme, herb stems and peppercorns, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, cover and let stand 10 minutes. Then strain, discarding the solids, and return the liquid to the pot. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Place the trout in a glass baking dish in one layer. Pour the poaching liquid over the fish to cover and fill dish. Quickly cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand until poached to desired doneness, about 10 to 15 minutes. Discard the poaching liquid and fish skin. Gently flake the fish with a fork and set aside.

For the dressing, in small bowl, whisk the buttermilk and crème fraiche until smooth. Add the dill, then season with salt, pepper and lemon, and whisk until smooth. Refrigerate, covered, if making ahead.

For the salad, bring small pot of water to boil over high heat. Add the peas, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop the peas cooking. Once cool, drain and set aside. To serve, divide the lettuce among 4 plates or bowls. Divide the trout, peas and radishes evenly over each, then drizzle with Buttermilk-Crème Fraiche dressing. Sprinkle each with Maldon sea salt and pepper.

Spaghetti with Turkey Meatballs & Arrabiata Sauce

Lean, light and delicious, these succulent Turkey Meatballs are made with a combination of ground turkey and turkey sausage for a heart-smart twist on the traditional Italian classic. The addition of garlic, grated parmesan cheese, fresh bread crumbs, egg and chopped Italian parsley take these little golden gems to another savoury level. Rolled into small bite size or golfball size balls, the easiest way to make them is to pinch out the desired amount and roll it into a ball between the palms of your hands. The meatballs are then paced on a parchment lined baking sheets and baked in the oven for about half an hour. 

In the meantime, a quick Arrabbiata Sauce can be prepared with sautéed onion, garlic, red wine, tomatoes, chopped fresh basil and a few teaspoons of dried chili flakes or Sriracha Sauce, for a little heat. Arrabbiato means 'angry' in Italian, due to the heat of the chili peppers, so it's up to you how 'angry' you like your sugo, or sauce. You can always say, "The devil made you do it!"

Assemble the turkey meatballs into 1-2" balls or as you prefer

Golden brown and cooked through, the turkey meatballs smell heavenly

Spaghettini with Turkey Meatballs
Serves 6-8

Turkey meatballs:
3/4 lb ground turkey

1/2 lb turkey sausage, casings removed

2/3 cup fresh white bread crumbs

2 tsp minced garlic 
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3 tbsp milk

1 large egg, lightly beaten

kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper

Spicy Arrabiata sauce:
1 tbsp olive oil 
1 cup chopped onion 
6 cloves minced garlic
1/2 cup red wine 
1 tbsp brown sugar 
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil 
1 small can tomato paste 
2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes, or more if you like
1/4 tsp ground black pepper 
2 large cans crushed tomatoes, drained, but save the juice
2 tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish 

Pasta & Garnish:
1 500g box spaghettini or spaghetti
1 cup grated good quality Parmesan or Pecorino cheese


Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the ground turkey and sausage meat, bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, Parmesan, milk, egg, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper in a large bowl and combine gently with a fork. With a medium spoon, drop 1 to 2-inch size meatballs onto a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, until the meatballs are cooked through and lightly browned. You should get about 24 to 30 meatballs, depending how big you want to make them. Once done, drain on paper towel and set aside.

While the meatballs are baking, begin to make Arrabiata sauce. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in large skillet. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for about 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, sugar, basil, red pepper flakes, tomato paste and black pepper, stirring to combine. Mix in the crushed tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered for 20-30 minutes. If you like a slightly runnier sauce, add some of the reserved tomato juice, and season to taste.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil, then cook the pasta according to the directions on the box. While the pasta is cooking, gently stir in the turkey meatballs with the Arrabiata sauce, and allow to simmer over low heat until ready to serve.

Once the pasta is al dente, drain in a colander then pour into a large warmed serving bowl or platter. Pour the Arrabiata sauce with the meatballs over the pasta and garnish with chopped parsley and grated fresh pecorino.

Nami Japanese Restaurant: The Best Sushi in Toronto

For over two decades, Nami has been a quiet escape in the heart of downtown Toronto, for the finest sushi, sashimi, made-to-order grilled meat, fish and seafood at the Robata Grill, and Sukiyaki — Japanese hot pot. Considered to be one of the city's finest authentic Japanese restaurants, Nami is a hidden gem. One of my favourite sushi restaurants for many years, Kimono-clad servers attend to guests in the main dining area, as well as private rice paper screened Tatami rooms which can be reserved for groups of eight people or more — a real treat. Peter oversees the Robata Grill and patiently and expertly prepares the most sublime grilled fish, seafood and succulent steamed mixed mushrooms you can imagine. The Sushi Bar is also a fabulous place to sit and watch the nigiri sushi and sashimi being hand prepared by a trio of expert sushi chefs — just remember to say "Gochisosama Deshita!", as you leave.

Grilled sardines, zucchini ad asparagus at Nami's robata grill

Nami's succulent black cod in a miso glaze

www.namirestaurant.ca