Monday, September 30, 2024

Middle Temple and The Inns of Court in London

 



The Inns of Court in London are the professional associations for barristers in England and Wales. There are four Inns of Court: Gray's Inn, Lincoln's Inn, Inner Temple and Middle Temple. All barristers must belong to one of them. First and foremost, Middle Temple is one of the four Inns of Court which have the exclusive right to Call students to the Bar, running of a modern Law library and an historic archive, and also oversight — with Inner Temple — of the historic Temple Church, which is steeped in history. Built in 1162 built by the Knights Templar, Temple Church is also known as ‘the mother-church of the Common Law’. It played a central role in the gestation of Magna Carta, and in the spread of the Charter’s principles to America and throughout the world. William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke, son-in-law of Strongbow and Aoife Mac Murrough, and hero of Runnymede, is buried in the church, as is his son the 2nd earl, one of Magna Carta’s surety barons. Issued in 1215, the Magna Carta was the first document to put into writing the principle that the king and his government was not above the law. It sought to prevent the king from exploiting his power, and placed limits of royal authority by establishing law as a power in itself. Spending the morning exploring Temple Church and the beautiful architecture  and gardens within the Inns of Court, we had made lunch reservations at Middle Temple largely due to our dear friend Jean Downey's recommendation, and so glad we did. 

Built during the reign of Elizabeth I, Middle Temple Hall is one the finest examples of an Elizabethan architecture in London, spanned by a magnificent double hammerbeam roof — the best in London — and stained glass windows which display the coats of arms of distinguished members, including Walter Raleigh. Built in 1573, Middle Temple Hall just celebrated its 450th anniversary. It’s also where Shakespeare held the premiere of his Christmas play, Twelfth Night, in 1602. The head table at the end of the hall was carved out of a single oak, floated down the Thames from Windsor on the orders of Elizabeth I. Above the head table are a series of spectacular oil paintings including is a large painting of King Charles I, Charles II, James II, William III, Elizabeth I, Queen Anne and George I. Along the walls are panels bearing the coats of arms of senior and current members dating back to 1597. Dining amid such Elizabethan grandeur with members of the Inns of Courts, we enjoyed a lovely lunch beginning with a glass of wine, homemade bread and butter, silky smooth Tomato and White Bean Soup followed by hand carved Roast Pork, roasted potatoes and sautéed courgettes. A wonderful lunch, with gracious and courteous staff, in a truly remarkable setting. Another one of Londons hidden gems.


Tucked away down the cobbled Middle Temple Lane, Fountain Court is a calm oasis

The fountain for which Fountain Curt is named

Nestled in perfectly preserved courtyards, chapels and libraries, many of the buildings remain unchanged since medieval times

Temple Church and the Inns of Court are a hidden gem

The secret vegetable and cutting garden behind the Church of the Knights' Templar 

The remarkable West Porch of Temple Church was built around 1160

The Temple Church was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century and the round tower was consecrated by Heraclius, the Patriarch of Jerusalem in 1185

The design of the round tower was intended to resemble the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, and curiously was featured in Dan Brown's Da Vinci Code

I climbed the steep spiral stone staircase to the 2nd floor for an interior view 
over the Round Tower of Temple Church

Overlooking the round nave with effigies of knights

Burials in the Temple Church include William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke, 
 championed the Magna Carta at Runnymede in 1215

Copy off the Magna Carta which was the first document to put into writing 
the principle that the king and his government was not above the law

The rectangular Chancel of Temple Church, consecrated in 1240, was originally built to accommodate Henry III's wish to be buried there, but was eventually buried in Westminster Abbey

Book of Common Prayer and Bible laid out for Choral Evensong  

Entrance to historic Middle Temple Hall, 
one of the finest Elizabethan Halls in London

Coats of arms cover the wood-panelled walls and represent past members of Middle Temple, 
providing a historic backdrop for our special lunch

Dining under the spectacular double hammerbeam roof that dates back to 1573,
the hall is an Elizabethan masterpiece which has survived the Fire of London and two World Wars.

We sat overlooking the high table which was donated by Elizabeth I 
and made of Tudor oak 

Equestrian portrait of King Charles I, after Van Dyck

Our reserved seating at Middle Temple 

The lunch menu changes every day and features 2 or 3 courses
with 3 entrée options and a hot or cold dessert

Glass of Middle Temple Claret

Complimentary Bread and Butter

Roasted Tomato and White Bean Soup

Lunch is buffet style, with a set menu for groups larger than 6,
with a selection of champagne, wine or beer served by attentive wait staff  

The gentleman in black oversees the Carvery which features a different roast every day

The Carvery entrée of the day was Porchetta which is hand carved 
and served with homemade apple sauce

A selection of potatoes and seasonal vegetables are served as a buffet
including other entrées including Chicken Milanese and Vegetarian Harisssa Glazed Aubergine

Porchetta with roast potatoes and courgettes

Chocolate Mousse with grilled orange 

A combination of barristers and visitors dine for lunch which is served 12-2pm

Shakespeare's Twelfth Night was famously performed at the Middle Temple on 2 February 1602













Friday, September 27, 2024

Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington





Founded in 1852 and named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, the V&A is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects. Comprised in 145 galleries, the V&A collection spans 5,000 years of art, from ancient history to the present day, from the cultures of Europe, North America, Asia and North Africa. Their collection of ceramics, glass, textiles, costumes, silver, ironwork, jewellery, furniture, medieval objects, sculpture, prints and printmaking, drawings and photographs are among the largest and most comprehensive in the world, and holds the world's largest collection of post-classical sculpture, with the holdings of Italian Renaissance sculpture being the largest outside Italy. Overall, it is one of the largest and most spectacular museums in the world, and also boasts the world's first museum restaurant, where we started our morning with a cup of tea and croissant listening to local pianists before exploring portions of the V&A. 

Since its inception, the V&A's buildings were intended to exemplify the best of contemporary architecture and design. They were to be a work of art in themselves, reinforcing the Museum's mission to educate and inspire its visitors. This philosophy has endured to create the richly varied set of buildings we see today. Each one now represents both a chapter of the V&A's story and a moment in British design history. To see even a small portion of the collection in one day is impossible. Having visited the V&A many times, one can only try and focus on a few galleries at time without being overwhelmed. When in doubt, we go out for a lovely long lunch, and explore a little bit more in the afternoon.  



The Gamble, Poynter and Morris Rooms were opened in 1868, 
although work continued on their decorations for many years

The Gamble Room by designer James Gamble, with walls and large columns 
covered in large variety of colourful ceramic 'Majolica' tiles

Arriving as the museum opened, we sat with a cup of tea in the Gamble Room
listening to local pianists playing Chopin, Mozart and Bach's Goldberg Variations

Each pianist played one piece and then was replaced by another artist after another
creating a magical start to our morning

The John Madejski Garden is known to many as the heart of the V&A,
a quiet oasis in the elegant central courtyard

The exquisite architecture and beautiful landscaping add to the serenity
of the courtyard

The spectacular Whiteley Silver Galleries houses the nation's finest collection of silver, 
with over 1,500 objects on view

Large Perfume Burner would have warmed and scented the room in which it stood in Italy c. 1630

'The Day Dream' by Dante Rossettti - the sitter was Jane Morris who was the wife of William Morris,
the English textile designe and socialist activist associated with the British Arts and Crafts movement

'Venice from the Giudecca' by Turner 1840

Pastoral Tapestry from the Netherlands, woven in wool and silk c. 1500

'The Three Fates' Tapestry from the Netherlands, woven in wool and silk c. 1520

'Farm Birds with a Macaw' by Jakob Bogdany c. 1700

'The Globe' installation structure by the Cuban Art Collective Los Carpinteros,
was a beautiful wooden structure that I sat in and watched people go by

'The Age of Bronze' by Auguste Rodin, cast in 1880

Portrait of Honoré de Balzac in bronze by Auguste Rodin c. 1891

Portrait of Albert Einstein in bronze by Jason Epstein c. 1933

Queen Victoria's Sapphire and Diamond Coronet Tiara that Prince Albert designed for her

Cancellation Etching of Lucien Freud (Self Portrait), which he marked with an 'X' through it -1996

Carved Shell of "Diana on the Hunt' c.1850 from Italy

The painted oculus of the Mantegna's Picture Room at the Ducal Palace in Mantua c 1474

'The Virgin and Child' by Carlo Crivilli from Ascoli Picena c. 1480

The magnificent plaster cast of Trajan's Column is one of the stars of the V&A collection, and has towered over the cast collection in two halves since the opening of the Courts in 1873

The V&A gorgeous hanging chandelier from Dale Chihuly's 'Chandelier' series from 2001 

Pierino in South Kensington, a lovely Italian restaurant near the V&A

Interior with wine glasses

Gavi di Gavi

Spinach Soup with crumbled feta and lemon zest

Ricotta and Pumpkin Ravioli with Carbonara Sauce and Bacon

Risotto Piemontese with mushrooms, peas, root peppers, 
tomato and parmesan cheese

Chargrilled Chicken and Vegetable Salad topped with fresh oranges and tarragon